I want to do some projects involving leaving metal bare. But, I do want to
heat it up to get some rainbow effects, as well as some other discoloration
techniques to get various effects.

Two questions ........ one, what can I use to discolor steel, both in
chemicals and heating effects, and ...... two, what type of a clearcoat do
I use to seal it against further rust or discoloration?

I'll have to repaint probably every two to three years, as there is a
sandblasting effect with local wind and sand.

Coloring and patination effects appreciated. Share your secrets.

Steve

--
-Never underestimate the power of stupid people in large numbers.-

"SteveB" toquerville@zionvistas wrote in message
...
I want to do some projects involving leaving metal bare. But, I do want to
heat it up to get some rainbow effects, as well as some other discoloration
techniques to get various effects.

Two questions ........ one, what can I use to discolor steel, both in
chemicals and heating effects, and ...... two, what type of a clearcoat
do I use to seal it against further rust or discoloration?

I'll have to repaint probably every two to three years, as there is a
sandblasting effect with local wind and sand.

Coloring and patination effects appreciated. Share your secrets.

Steve

For a clear coating, I'd use Krylon's Crystal Clear - it's an acrylic that
won't turn yellow with age/exposure.

It comes in two "flavors" - the normal thickness and one that's triple
thickness (often used for artsy/craftsy projects). For something that'd be
outdoors I'd go with the thicker version.

The stuff comes in a rattle can and is easy to apply, weatherproof, and
fingerprint proof.

"SteveB" toquerville@zionvistas wrote in message
...
I want to do some projects involving leaving metal bare. But, I do want to
heat it up to get some rainbow effects, as well as some other discoloration
techniques to get various effects.

Two questions ........ one, what can I use to discolor steel, both in
chemicals and heating effects, and ...... two, what type of a clearcoat
do I use to seal it against further rust or discoloration?

I'll have to repaint probably every two to three years, as there is a
sandblasting effect with local wind and sand.

Coloring and patination effects appreciated. Share your secrets.

Steve

--


I've had good results with steel. Common 2"x6" rectangular tubing, (I'd not
make a guess at the alloy),
design milled into surface, and filled with brazing rod,
the whole thing ground flat, sanded fine, then polished to high mirror-like
gloss,
finally heated with the brazing torch (fine tip) until the heat colored the
surface where I wanted it. (Really neat rainbow-effect, flaring out in
sunburst attitude),
If you overcook it, just cool it, polish, and go at it again, until you
achieve the desired appearance.
then immediately (as soon as it cooled) clear-coated with automotive
lacquer. (Three coats, polished if you like).
Highly durable, especially indoor, and 30 years later, still looks worth
remembering the effort to do it.

Flash

"SteveB" toquerville@zionvistas wrote in message
...
I want to do some projects involving leaving metal bare. But, I do want to
heat it up to get some rainbow effects, as well as some other discoloration
techniques to get various effects.

Two questions ........ one, what can I use to discolor steel, both in
chemicals and heating effects, and ...... two, what type of a clearcoat
do I use to seal it against further rust or discoloration?

I'll have to repaint probably every two to three years, as there is a
sandblasting effect with local wind and sand.

Coloring and patination effects appreciated. Share your secrets.


1) Coloring/patination - heating alone produces interesting effects -
totally unpredictable. To darken steel I use Birchwood Casey's Gun Blue
paste - I like it better than the liquid. I have coated steel with copper by
just painting it with acidified Copper Sulphate - I am in the process of
getting an electro-plating system together. There is always rust! I got a
pretty even brown coating by *really* cleaning the sanded steel and applying
lemon juice - it happens literally before your eyes.

2) Protection - I have used Future Acrylic Floor coating. It is very
resistant and does not discolour (has not so far!). One problem is that it
sometimes screws up the patina and you have to know how it is going to react
with *your* surface treatment. Advantage is that it dries quickly and is
non-toxic.

For everything else I like Penetrol. Note: Unless the ambient temperature is
warm, it may take 2 days to dry completely.

--
Michael Koblic,
Campbell River, BC