If anyone has experience of treating decking, I'ld be glad of advice.

I have a great deal of decking between the house and the garden. It was
put down about 10 years ago and was never coated with anything. The
previous owner gave it a light power-wash twice a year and this has kept
the algae down, so there is barely any green to be seen anywhere. The
fact that all this decking is south-facing probably also helps keep the
algae down. Currently all the wood looks clean but grey.

The pale grey of the decking does not fit at all well with the strong
mahogany-colour of the UPVC window-frames, so for this reason I want to
coat the decking so that it matches the windows. A paint company has
advised me to firstly clean the decking with "oxygen bleach", to clean
it and remove discolourations, and then to coat it with "a water-based
epoxy sealer with a synthetic resin."

Does anybody here have experience of these products?

Also, what would you recommend as being best for the above situation?

Thanks,
Eddy.

On 24 Feb, 19:36, Eddy
wrote:
If anyone has experience of treating decking, I'ld be glad of advice.

I have a great deal of decking between the house and the garden. *It was
put down about 10 years ago and was never coated with anything. *The
previous owner gave it a light power-wash twice a year and this has kept
the algae down, so there is barely any green to be seen anywhere. The
fact that all this decking is south-facing probably also helps keep the
algae down. *Currently all the wood looks clean but grey.

The pale grey of the decking does not fit at all well with the strong
mahogany-colour of the UPVC window-frames, so for this reason I want to
coat the decking so that it matches the windows. *A paint company has
advised me to firstly clean the decking with "oxygen bleach", to clean
it and remove discolourations, and then to coat it with "a water-based
epoxy sealer with a synthetic resin."

Does anybody here have experience of these products?

Also, what would you recommend as being best for the above situation?

Thanks,
Eddy.

A water proof epoxy would be the the last thing I would use. I would
use a water repellant preservative stain and keep water vapour moving
in and out and water in the liquid phase out
There has been an extensive previous post on this as far as I can
recollect...
Chris

On Feb 24, 7:36*pm, Eddy
wrote:


Also, what would you recommend as being best for the above situation?


I'd look at Sikkens Cetol HLS or Hicksons Restol Decking oil in a
medium or dark shade to get close to what you want.

There are various other tinted decking oils the 'sheds' sell but the
above is likely to be better quality.

Then once a year or two give a thin coat of a light shade to top it
up.

Well worth try an inconspicious sample first though.

cheers,
Pete.

Pete C wrote:
On Feb 24, 7:36 pm, Eddy
wrote:


Also, what would you recommend as being best for the above situation?


I'd look at Sikkens Cetol HLS or Hicksons Restol Decking oil in a
medium or dark shade to get close to what you want.

There are various other tinted decking oils the 'sheds' sell but the
above is likely to be better quality.

Then once a year or two give a thin coat of a light shade to top it
up.

Well worth try an inconspicious sample first though.


As long as you are sure its never been treated I'd agree with Pete C.
Decking oil soaks in rather than forming a surface coating, so it's easier
to apply & top up. I'd avoid any kind of seal, epoxy or not.

I've used clear decking oil from the sheds & found it OK.


--
Dave - The Medway Handyman
www.medwayhandyman.co.uk
01634 717930
07850 597257

The Medway Handyman wrote:
As long as you are sure its never been treated I'd agree with Pete C.
Decking oil soaks in rather than forming a surface coating, so it's easier
to apply & top up. I'd avoid any kind of seal, epoxy or not.

I've used clear decking oil from the sheds & found it OK.

Dave, thanks for the advice. The idea of using something that sinks
into the wood, rather than just forming a film on top of it, as paint
does, seems like very good sense to me. However, I have seen quite a
lot of references on internet pages to how algae & suchlike love to
"eat" oil-based treatments, i.e. people claim that the organic nature of
the oil while soaking into the wood is also attractive to the green
stuff ! Have you used oil-based treatments and not found this to be
the case?

Eddy.

Eddy wrote:
The Medway Handyman wrote:
As long as you are sure its never been treated I'd agree with Pete C.
Decking oil soaks in rather than forming a surface coating, so it's
easier to apply & top up. I'd avoid any kind of seal, epoxy or not.

I've used clear decking oil from the sheds & found it OK.

Dave, thanks for the advice. The idea of using something that sinks
into the wood, rather than just forming a film on top of it, as paint
does, seems like very good sense to me. However, I have seen quite a
lot of references on internet pages to how algae & suchlike love to
"eat" oil-based treatments, i.e. people claim that the organic nature
of the oil while soaking into the wood is also attractive to the green
stuff ! Have you used oil-based treatments and not found this to be
the case?

AFAIK oil based treatments change chemically when they dry. Hopefully
someone will be along in a minute who knows more. I've never heard of algae
liking oil based treatments & I do keep my eyes open for anything to do with
decking.

I built my first deck in July 2000 and have only ever used decking oil.
Having said that I've nothing to compare it with so its not a scientific
study.

Just found this on the Axminster site;

---------------------------------
Liberon Decking Oil

Decking oil is for use on all decking and can be applied to treated and
untreated wood. It is compatible with other products, is water
resistant/repellent and helps to prevent mould and fungal growth. A low
odour, durable finish with UV filters to maximise resistance to the
elements. Supplied in clear or teak to help lift and rejuvenate tired
looking timber.

---------------------------------------

It says it helps prevent mould & fungal growth. Whilst I'm always
suspicious of 'helps prevent' statements I can't see why it would be
difficut to add a fungicide.

On that point, I reckon its worth cleaning the deck first with a decking
cleaner. The contain optical brighteners to restore colour ^ fungicides to
kill off spores.

HTH



--
Dave - The Medway Handyman
www.medwayhandyman.co.uk
01634 717930
07850 597257

On Feb 25, 11:06*pm, Eddy
wrote:
The Medway Handyman wrote:
As long as you are sure its never been treated I'd agree with Pete C.
Decking oil soaks in rather than forming a surface coating, so it's easier
to apply & top up. *I'd avoid any kind of seal, epoxy or not.

I've used clear decking oil from the sheds & found it OK.

Dave, thanks for the advice. *The idea of using something that sinks
into the wood, rather than just forming a film on top of it, as paint
does, seems like very good sense to me. *However, I have seen quite a
lot of references on internet pages to how algae & suchlike love to
"eat" oil-based treatments, i.e. people claim that the organic nature of
the oil while soaking into the wood is also attractive to the green
stuff ! * Have you used oil-based treatments and not found this to be
the case?

Algae tends to thrive on a rough or porous surface, especially with
trees overhanging.

The ones I mentioned both form a thin surface film which discourages
algae by making the surface less porous.

They protect the wood from weathering better, and last longer but
_need timely maintenance_.

The non film forming ones usually have fungicide/algaecide to help
stop algae, and are more forgiving of neglect.

In view of the fact the deck is 10 years old it might be worth giving
the latter type a try.

If the results aren't satisfactory then let it weather off and try the
former type.

cheers,
Pete.

Pete C wrote:
Algae tends to thrive on a rough or porous surface, especially with
trees overhanging.

The ones I mentioned both form a thin surface film which discourages
algae by making the surface less porous.

They protect the wood from weathering better, and last longer but
need timely maintenance .

The non film forming ones usually have fungicide/algaecide to help
stop algae, and are more forgiving of neglect.

In view of the fact the deck is 10 years old it might be worth giving
the latter type a try.

If the results aren't satisfactory then let it weather off and try the
former type.

Thanks, Pete.

The Medway Handyman wrote:
AFAIK oil based treatments change chemically when they dry. Hopefully
someone will be along in a minute who knows more. I've never heard of algae
liking oil based treatments & I do keep my eyes open for anything to do with
decking.

I built my first deck in July 2000 and have only ever used decking oil.
Having said that I've nothing to compare it with so its not a scientific
study.

Just found this on the Axminster site;

---------------------------------
Liberon Decking Oil

Decking oil is for use on all decking and can be applied to treated and
untreated wood. It is compatible with other products, is water
resistant/repellent and helps to prevent mould and fungal growth. A low
odour, durable finish with UV filters to maximise resistance to the
elements. Supplied in clear or teak to help lift and rejuvenate tired
looking timber.

---------------------------------------

It says it helps prevent mould & fungal growth. Whilst I'm always
suspicious of 'helps prevent' statements I can't see why it would be
difficut to add a fungicide.

On that point, I reckon its worth cleaning the deck first with a decking
cleaner. The contain optical brighteners to restore colour ^ fungicides to
kill off spores.

Thanks for all of the above, Dave.

Eddy.

Eddy, when you have decided on a treatment, and in time ascertained the
effectivness of the stain/paint, I would be awfully grateful if you can come
back to the group and give us your opinion on how effective it was.
Thanks
Don

Donwill wrote:

Eddy, when you have decided on a treatment, and in time ascertained the
effectivness of the stain/paint, I would be awfully grateful if you can come
back to the group and give us your opinion on how effective it was.
Thanks
Don

OK, Don. Will try to remember this.

Am still undecided what to do. The decking (10 years old and gone grey)
here certainly looks natural, but it's the many circular or square
patches where previous owners had planters and pots stood as well as the
rust stains in the wood from use of the wrong screws that's the bugbear.

We're at the stage now of tossing up between an annual spray with Jeyes
Fluid might be better replaced with an annual spray with "Sikkens Cetol
Marine". What I need to look into next is the colour range of this
Sikkens product . . . and its price!

Eddy.

On Feb 29, 11:36*am, Eddy
wrote:

Am still undecided what to do. *The decking (10 years old and gone grey)
here certainly looks natural, but it's the many circular or square
patches where previous owners had planters and pots stood as well as the
rust stains in the wood from use of the wrong screws that's the bugbear.

We're at the stage now of tossing up between an annual spray with Jeyes
Fluid might be better replaced with an annual spray with "Sikkens Cetol
Marine". * What I need to look into next is the colour range of this
Sikkens product . . . and its price!

Hi,

You can get Cetol HLS or Restol from he

http://www.decoratingdirect.co.uk/

or maybe a timber yard or decorators merchant.

If you have a BIG deck it might be worth getting a tin to try as a
sample for coverage and number of coats.

But a 'decking oil' from a 'shed' could be more economical and
tolerate negelct better.

cheers,
Pete.

On Feb 29, 11:36*am, Eddy
wrote:
Am still undecided what to do. *The decking (10 years old and gone grey)
here certainly looks natural, but it's the many circular or square
patches where previous owners had planters and pots stood as well as the
rust stains in the wood from use of the wrong screws that's the bugbear.

If there's lots of unweathered patches, it might be worth letting them
weather for a few years to even things out.

There may be a chemical to minimise rust stains too, I can't remember
what it is offhand.

cheers,
Pete.

Pete C wrote:
You can get Cetol HLS or Restol from he

http://www.decoratingdirect.co.uk/

or maybe a timber yard or decorators merchant.

If you have a BIG deck it might be worth getting a tin to try as a
sample for coverage and number of coats.

But a 'decking oil' from a 'shed' could be more economical and
tolerate negelct better.

Thanks, Pete.

I see that the Sikkens Cetol Marine is reasonably priced, at £18 a
fairly large tin. But unfortunately it's darkest shade is a "teak"
which is a medium dark brown. I could do with darker shade than that to
hide the flaws, but beggars can't be choosers.

Now the big thing to decide is whether to step onto the ever-turning
treatment wheel! On the plus side, Sikkens Cetol Marine can simply be
sprayed or brushed on each year over the previous year's coat without
sanding. On the negative side though, after 10 years the whole damn lot
(the pile-up of annual coatings) has got to be completely removed,
before starting again. Well, there's 30 years more life left in this
deck, and we don't intend moving again, nor do we intend dying within
the next 30 years, so this 10-yearly removal has got to be carefully
considered. We've got lashings of decking here, about 120 square
metres, all told, with about one third of it composing steps from the
house to the road: so the 10-yearly removal would be one hell of a job.

I'm beginning to think it might be easiest to try and turn a blind eye
to the greyness of it all and the various patches and stains.

On the other hand, I'm still not convinced there isn't some black stuff
out there that can simply be painted on year after year for the next 30
years without any significant problems. I just haven't found it yet!

Eddy.

On Feb 29, 7:56*pm, Eddy
wrote:

I'm beginning to think it might be easiest to try and turn a blind eye
to the greyness of it all and the various patches and stains.

I'd let it weather some more for the patches to fade, I doubt a couple
of years more will make a difference to a 10 year deck.

cheers,
Pete.

Eddy wrote:
Pete C wrote:
You can get Cetol HLS or Restol from he

http://www.decoratingdirect.co.uk/

or maybe a timber yard or decorators merchant.

If you have a BIG deck it might be worth getting a tin to try as a
sample for coverage and number of coats.

But a 'decking oil' from a 'shed' could be more economical and
tolerate negelct better.

Thanks, Pete.

I see that the Sikkens Cetol Marine is reasonably priced, at £18 a
fairly large tin. But unfortunately it's darkest shade is a "teak"
which is a medium dark brown. I could do with darker shade than that to
hide the flaws, but beggars can't be choosers.

Now the big thing to decide is whether to step onto the ever-turning
treatment wheel! On the plus side, Sikkens Cetol Marine can simply be
sprayed or brushed on each year over the previous year's coat without
sanding. On the negative side though, after 10 years the whole damn lot
(the pile-up of annual coatings) has got to be completely removed,
before starting again. Well, there's 30 years more life left in this
deck, and we don't intend moving again, nor do we intend dying within
the next 30 years, so this 10-yearly removal has got to be carefully
considered. We've got lashings of decking here, about 120 square
metres, all told, with about one third of it composing steps from the
house to the road: so the 10-yearly removal would be one hell of a job.

I'm beginning to think it might be easiest to try and turn a blind eye
to the greyness of it all and the various patches and stains.

I think the weathered look is best for fences and decking. It's a
slippery slope once you start prettifying it.

On the other hand, I'm still not convinced there isn't some black stuff
out there that can simply be painted on year after year for the next 30
years without any significant problems. I just haven't found it yet!

Eddy.

On Mar 1, 11:55*am, Stuart Noble
wrote:

I think the weathered look is best for fences and decking. It's a
slippery slope once you start prettifying it.

I'd say it's a moderately uphill struggle, weathered decking can be
the slippery option, not pretty either IMHO.

cheers,
Pete.

Pete C wrote:

On Mar 1, 11:55 am, Stuart Noble stuart
wrote:

I think the weathered look is best for fences and decking. It's a
slippery slope once you start prettifying it.

I'd say it's a moderately uphill struggle, weathered decking can be
the slippery option, not pretty either IMHO.

cheers,
Pete.

. . . and, Stuart & Pete, I'ld say the problem of what to do with it is
a pain in the neck! :-)

I'm still holding out for discovering some dark stuff that you can slap
on (or better still spray on) every couple of years and NEVER have to
strip the lot off.

However, if no such miracle stuff materialises, I'm thinking that
"brightening" the patchy grey we currently have (with one of these "deck
brightener" fluids/cleaners I've seen on the shelves) might possibly, at
least, give us a respectable UNIFORM grey!

Eddy.

Eddy wrote:
Pete C wrote:

On Mar 1, 11:55 am, Stuart Noble stuart
wrote:

I think the weathered look is best for fences and decking. It's a
slippery slope once you start prettifying it.

I'd say it's a moderately uphill struggle, weathered decking can be
the slippery option, not pretty either IMHO.

cheers,
Pete.

. . and, Stuart & Pete, I'ld say the problem of what to do with it is
a pain in the neck! :-)

I'm still holding out for discovering some dark stuff that you can
slap on (or better still spray on) every couple of years and NEVER
have to strip the lot off.

There are two basic choices when renovating a wooden floor (inside) or a
deck (outside). (A) A product that forms a surface coating or (B) a
product that soaks into the wood.

Varnish, polyurethanes & two pack resins (A) are much more durable, but need
a physical key (sanding) when you need to recoat.

Decking Oil or Oleo Resinious Seals (B) soak into the surface and are less
durable, but are much easier to re coat.

The second point is the use of a stain. IMO 'stained' wood never looks
good. It just looks like wood that has been 'stained'. Never natural.

Stain that soaks into the wood looks better than stains which colour the
surface coating.


However, if no such miracle stuff materialises, I'm thinking that
"brightening" the patchy grey we currently have (with one of these
"deck brightener" fluids/cleaners I've seen on the shelves) might
possibly, at least, give us a respectable UNIFORM grey!

They will do better than that. First of all they will remove all of the
dirt & algae, which should even out the colour quite a bit, then the colour
brighteners will even out the colour even more.

Decking Oil will then enhance the colour & protect the surface from UV
degradation & dirt. Recoating every one/two years is simply a case of using
a decking cleaner & another coat of oil.

I'd suggest that you wash the whole area with a pressure washer (using a
wide fan), then use an 'off the shelf' decking cleaner. See if that evens
out the colour.

Then I would use a natural decking oil. See how it looks, then if you want,
use a coloured decking oil straight over it.


--
Dave - The Medway Handyman
www.medwayhandyman.co.uk
01634 717930
07850 597257

On Mar 1, 8:38*pm, Eddy
wrote:
Pete C wrote:

However, if no such miracle stuff materialises, I'm thinking that
"brightening" the patchy grey we currently have (with one of these "deck
brightener" fluids/cleaners I've seen on the shelves) might possibly, at
least, give us a respectable UNIFORM grey!

If the decking planks are the same length it may be possible to swap
the patchy ones to a less conspicious place, and/or somewhere the sun
bleaches them more.

cheers,
Pete.

Pete C wrote:
If the decking planks are the same length it may be possible to swap
the patchy ones to a less conspicious place, and/or somewhere the sun
bleaches them more.

Good thinking, Pete. But unfortunately when the previous owner had all
the decking done all the screws that were used were NOT rust-proof.
This means that they over the last 10 years they have all rusted and now
simply cannot be turned. Hence, my spending a lot of time thinking
about how to care for and preserve all this wonderful decking for the
remaining 30 years of its life . . . because if it starts to deteriorate
and rot the only options will be to use a jigsaw to cut bits of it out
and to use brute force on parts involving immoveable screws!

Eddy.

The Medway Handyman wrote:
However, if no such miracle stuff materialises, I'm thinking that
"brightening" the patchy grey we currently have (with one of these
"deck brightener" fluids/cleaners I've seen on the shelves) might
possibly, at least, give us a respectable UNIFORM grey!

They will do better than that. First of all they will remove all of the
dirt & algae, which should even out the colour quite a bit, then the colour
brighteners will even out the colour even more.

Decking Oil will then enhance the colour & protect the surface from UV
degradation & dirt. Recoating every one/two years is simply a case of using
a decking cleaner & another coat of oil.

I'd suggest that you wash the whole area with a pressure washer (using a
wide fan), then use an 'off the shelf' decking cleaner. See if that evens
out the colour.

Then I would use a natural decking oil. See how it looks, then if you want,
use a coloured decking oil straight over it.

Dave, thanks a lot for this advice. Is it correct that if I use
decking-cleaner decking-oil decking-cleaner decking-oil . . . ad
infinitum, there won't come a time when the entire 120 square metres
will need completely stripping back with a sander . . . as would be the
case if I go into the world of, for example, breatheable "varnishes",
like "Sikkens Cetol Marine"?

Eddy.

Eddy wrote:
Pete C wrote:
If the decking planks are the same length it may be possible to swap
the patchy ones to a less conspicious place, and/or somewhere the sun
bleaches them more.

Good thinking, Pete. But unfortunately when the previous owner had all
the decking done all the screws that were used were NOT rust-proof.
This means that they over the last 10 years they have all rusted and now
simply cannot be turned. Hence, my spending a lot of time thinking
about how to care for and preserve all this wonderful decking for the
remaining 30 years of its life . . . because if it starts to deteriorate
and rot the only options will be to use a jigsaw to cut bits of it out
and to use brute force on parts involving immoveable screws!

Eddy.


It will only rot if it sits in water for long periods, and no treatment
will stop that.

On Mar 2, 12:23*pm, Eddy
wrote:

Good thinking, Pete. *But unfortunately when the previous owner had all
the decking done all the screws that were used were NOT rust-proof.
This means that they over the last 10 years they have all rusted and now
simply cannot be turned. *Hence, my spending a lot of time thinking
about how to care for and preserve all this wonderful decking for the
remaining 30 years of its life . . . because if it starts to deteriorate
and rot the only options will be to use a jigsaw to cut bits of it out
and to use brute force on parts involving immoveable screws!

Best option may be to borrow or hire a battery impact driver, and use
with decent bits.

cheers,
Pete.

Pete C wrote:
. . . because if it starts to deteriorate
and rot the only options will be to use a jigsaw to cut bits of it out
and to use brute force on parts involving immoveable screws!

Best option may be to borrow or hire a battery impact driver, and use
with decent bits.

I'll remember that! Thanks.

Eddy.

Pete C wrote:
On Mar 1, 8:38 pm, Eddy
wrote:
Pete C wrote:

However, if no such miracle stuff materialises, I'm thinking that
"brightening" the patchy grey we currently have (with one of these
"deck brightener" fluids/cleaners I've seen on the shelves) might
possibly, at least, give us a respectable UNIFORM grey!

If the decking planks are the same length it may be possible to swap
the patchy ones to a less conspicious place, and/or somewhere the sun
bleaches them more.

Problem with that is the screws. Some will snap if you try to remove them,
others will tear the surface as they come out if they have been driven too
deeply.


--
Dave - The Medway Handyman
www.medwayhandyman.co.uk
01634 717930
07850 597257

Eddy wrote:
The Medway Handyman wrote:
However, if no such miracle stuff materialises, I'm thinking that
"brightening" the patchy grey we currently have (with one of these
"deck brightener" fluids/cleaners I've seen on the shelves) might
possibly, at least, give us a respectable UNIFORM grey!

They will do better than that. First of all they will remove all of
the dirt & algae, which should even out the colour quite a bit, then
the colour brighteners will even out the colour even more.

Decking Oil will then enhance the colour & protect the surface from
UV degradation & dirt. Recoating every one/two years is simply a
case of using a decking cleaner & another coat of oil.

I'd suggest that you wash the whole area with a pressure washer
(using a wide fan), then use an 'off the shelf' decking cleaner.
See if that evens out the colour.

Then I would use a natural decking oil. See how it looks, then if
you want, use a coloured decking oil straight over it.

Dave, thanks a lot for this advice. Is it correct that if I use
decking-cleaner decking-oil decking-cleaner decking-oil . . . ad
infinitum, there won't come a time when the entire 120 square metres
will need completely stripping back with a sander . . . as would be
the case if I go into the world of, for example, breatheable
"varnishes", like "Sikkens Cetol Marine"?

I built my deck on 2000 and that's exactly what I've done. Its also the
case with school hall floors coated with oleo resinous seal (which is also
non film forming).

May not need doing every year.



--
Dave - The Medway Handyman
www.medwayhandyman.co.uk
01634 717930
07850 597257

On Mar 2, 7:41*pm, "The Medway Handyman"
wrote:

I built my deck on 2000 and that's exactly what I've done. *Its also the
case with school hall floors coated with oleo resinous seal (which is also
non film forming).

May not need doing every year.

What product did you use and how does it look? Any chance of a piccy?

cheers,
Pete.

Pete C wrote:
On Mar 2, 7:41 pm, "The Medway Handyman"
wrote:

I built my deck on 2000 and that's exactly what I've done. Its also
the case with school hall floors coated with oleo resinous seal
(which is also non film forming).

May not need doing every year.

What product did you use and how does it look? Any chance of a piccy?

B&Q own label clear decking oil.

Wasn't cleaned or treated last year (will be this year). Been down since
2000 and had loads of use.

Sorry about the picture quality (mobile).

Thats 'Norm the Gnome' BTW.

http://i99.photobucket.com/albums/l2...hotos/deck.jpg
--
Dave - The Medway Handyman
www.medwayhandyman.co.uk
01634 717930
07850 597257

The Medway Handyman wrote:
Dave, thanks a lot for this advice. Is it correct that if I use
decking-cleaner decking-oil decking-cleaner decking-oil . . . ad
infinitum, there won't come a time when the entire 120 square metres
will need completely stripping back with a sander . . . as would be
the case if I go into the world of, for example, breatheable
"varnishes", like "Sikkens Cetol Marine"?

I built my deck on 2000 and that's exactly what I've done. Its also the
case with school hall floors coated with oleo resinous seal (which is also
non film forming).

May not need doing every year.

Here's a pic of part of our decking. (You can see a portion of the
steps, which are made of the same decking.)

http://s246.photobucket.com/albums/g...teddecking.jpg

All areas of our decking have a patch or two somewhere caused by less
exposure to sunshine or by being hidden for a long time under planters &
pots.

Eddy.

Eddy wrote:
The Medway Handyman wrote:
Dave, thanks a lot for this advice. Is it correct that if I use
decking-cleaner decking-oil decking-cleaner decking-oil . . .
ad infinitum, there won't come a time when the entire 120 square
metres will need completely stripping back with a sander . . . as
would be the case if I go into the world of, for example,
breatheable "varnishes", like "Sikkens Cetol Marine"?

I built my deck on 2000 and that's exactly what I've done. Its also
the case with school hall floors coated with oleo resinous seal
(which is also non film forming).

May not need doing every year.

Here's a pic of part of our decking. (You can see a portion of the
steps, which are made of the same decking.)

http://s246.photobucket.com/albums/g...teddecking.jpg

All areas of our decking have a patch or two somewhere caused by less
exposure to sunshine or by being hidden for a long time under
planters & pots.


Nice job by the look of it. Very dirty though.

I'd be inclined to pressure wash it first so you can see the wood for the
trees, so to speak. Don't think you can really tell what its like until you
get the dirt off.

Presure wash with a wide fan jet, don't go too close as it can raise the
grain.


--
Dave - The Medway Handyman
www.medwayhandyman.co.uk
01634 717930
07850 597257

The Medway Handyman wrote:
Nice job by the look of it. Very dirty though.
I'd be inclined to pressure wash it first so you can see the wood for the
trees, so to speak. Don't think you can really tell what its like until you
get the dirt off.
Presure wash with a wide fan jet, don't go too close as it can raise the
grain.

Hi Dave. Thanks for looking at the pic. I can understand why you
suggest pressure washing it! It obviously looks filthy to you! The
fact is, I would happily lick it with my tongue! In other words, I KNOW
it is absolutely clean. Pressure-washed it in late autumn 2007. Then
sprayed it with a solution of Jeyes Fluid to get rid of slight green
bloom here and there. No green has returned and the entire decking gets
brushed regularly.

What you're seeing is a serious state of "shades of grey" - some of
those shades almost being black.

At the moment, I am thinking I should definitely try a "Deck Cleaner"
and see what that does to the greyness, generally, and to the dark
patches here and there. If the result isn't pleasing enough, then I'm
thinking I should move on to a "Deck Brightener" and see if that
produces a uniform shade.

Then, after that, you're in favour of deck-oil. But I picked up a
Ronseal wood-treatment booklet this morning and I see they offer
"Decking Oil" or "Decking Stain". Do you know the difference, Dave?
Does the "Decking Stain" penetrate, as I would expect a stain to do, or
is it just a film, a paint?

Eddy.

Eddy wrote:
The Medway Handyman wrote:
Nice job by the look of it. Very dirty though.
I'd be inclined to pressure wash it first so you can see the wood
for the trees, so to speak. Don't think you can really tell what
its like until you get the dirt off.
Presure wash with a wide fan jet, don't go too close as it can raise
the grain.

Hi Dave. Thanks for looking at the pic. I can understand why you
suggest pressure washing it! It obviously looks filthy to you! The
fact is, I would happily lick it with my tongue! In other words, I
KNOW it is absolutely clean. Pressure-washed it in late autumn 2007.
Then sprayed it with a solution of Jeyes Fluid to get rid of slight
green bloom here and there. No green has returned and the entire
decking gets brushed regularly.



What you're seeing is a serious state of "shades of grey" - some of
those shades almost being black.

Hells teeth! That is serious shading!! I did think that was dirt.

At the moment, I am thinking I should definitely try a "Deck Cleaner"
and see what that does to the greyness, generally, and to the dark
patches here and there. If the result isn't pleasing enough, then
I'm thinking I should move on to a "Deck Brightener" and see if that
produces a uniform shade.


Sound idea. Doesn't cost a lot to try.

Then, after that, you're in favour of deck-oil. But I picked up a
Ronseal wood-treatment booklet this morning and I see they offer
"Decking Oil" or "Decking Stain". Do you know the difference, Dave?
Does the "Decking Stain" penetrate, as I would expect a stain to do,
or is it just a film, a paint?

Not sure TBH. Never used any kind of stain myself. Does mention on their
web site that 'the coating' should be inspected... but it also says that for
decking oil.

I'd guess it soaks in rather than forming a surface coating.


--
Dave - The Medway Handyman
www.medwayhandyman.co.uk
01634 717930
07850 597257

Eddy wrote:
The Medway Handyman wrote:
Dave, thanks a lot for this advice. Is it correct that if I use
decking-cleaner decking-oil decking-cleaner decking-oil . . . ad
infinitum, there won't come a time when the entire 120 square metres
will need completely stripping back with a sander . . . as would be
the case if I go into the world of, for example, breatheable
"varnishes", like "Sikkens Cetol Marine"?
I built my deck on 2000 and that's exactly what I've done. Its also the
case with school hall floors coated with oleo resinous seal (which is also
non film forming).

May not need doing every year.

Here's a pic of part of our decking. (You can see a portion of the
steps, which are made of the same decking.)

http://s246.photobucket.com/albums/g...teddecking.jpg

All areas of our decking have a patch or two somewhere caused by less
exposure to sunshine or by being hidden for a long time under planters &
pots.

Eddy.


Nice. Blends well with the wall and the greenery.