Howdy folks,

I a software guy groping around in E.E. and M.E. in my spare time. I
have limited access to a machine shop at work, but I want to be able
to do some things at home since I generally end up doing it at night
and on the weekends.

I've looked around at my local hardware stores and on the Internet,
but the sets that I find tend to be too large; e.g. targeted at
automobile engines (SAE?).

Here's what I think I know so far:

- I shouldn't go with a cheap set; the taps will just break (does any
manufacturer guarantee/replace their taps?)

- I'm thinking that if I *either* get a standard/english/imperial *or*
metric set, I'll just end up needing the sizes I don't have, so I'm
looking to get one set with both, or two complimentary sets.

- The work I'm doing is generally smaller stuff - the kind of thing
you'd find in small electronic and electromechanical appliances. I
think this means I should be looking for a set with 2-56 to 1/4-inch
UNC threads.

- Then there's the question of coarse threads vs. fine. Seems like if
I had to choose, coarse would be the way to go, but as with std vs.
metric (above), I worry about constantly needing the one that I don't
have.

- The materials I use are primarily aluminum, various plastics, and
occasionally steel or brass.

Can anyone recommend a good choice in tap and die set(s), and an
online vendor (or a B&M store in San Diego)?

Thanks in advance!

-Mr. INTJ
San Diego, CA

Mr. INTJ wrote:
Howdy folks,

I a software guy groping around in E.E. and M.E. in my spare time. I
have limited access to a machine shop at work, but I want to be able
to do some things at home since I generally end up doing it at night
and on the weekends.

I've looked around at my local hardware stores and on the Internet,
but the sets that I find tend to be too large; e.g. targeted at
automobile engines (SAE?).

Here's what I think I know so far:

- I shouldn't go with a cheap set; the taps will just break (does any
manufacturer guarantee/replace their taps?)

- I'm thinking that if I *either* get a standard/english/imperial *or*
metric set, I'll just end up needing the sizes I don't have, so I'm
looking to get one set with both, or two complimentary sets.

- The work I'm doing is generally smaller stuff - the kind of thing
you'd find in small electronic and electromechanical appliances. I
think this means I should be looking for a set with 2-56 to 1/4-inch
UNC threads.

- Then there's the question of coarse threads vs. fine. Seems like if
I had to choose, coarse would be the way to go, but as with std vs.
metric (above), I worry about constantly needing the one that I don't
have.

- The materials I use are primarily aluminum, various plastics, and
occasionally steel or brass.

Can anyone recommend a good choice in tap and die set(s), and an
online vendor (or a B&M store in San Diego)?

Thanks in advance!

-Mr. INTJ
San Diego, CA

From my experience - buy what you need , when you need it , and buy the
best you can find . I have a set from Horrible Fright , they're just not up
to what I need . Buying by the piece may cost a little more in the long run
, but you'll have quality that is more expensive than most want to spend in
a lump . Spreading it out hurts less bg.
BTW , I'm replacing the ones I use the most with the best I can find ...
--
Snag
Didn't really wanna buy them all twice but ...

On Fri, 5 Sep 2008 17:09:18 -0700 (PDT), "Mr. INTJ"
wrote:

- The work I'm doing is generally smaller stuff - the kind of thing
you'd find in small electronic and electromechanical appliances. I
think this means I should be looking for a set with 2-56 to 1/4-inch
UNC threads.

- Then there's the question of coarse threads vs. fine. Seems like if
I had to choose, coarse would be the way to go, but as with std vs.
metric (above), I worry about constantly needing the one that I don't
have.
=================
Several good replies in this thread.

Depending in which corner of the electronics area you will
working, I think you will find a much smaller set of threads in
actual use.

My suggestion is to buy good, not necessarily the best, taps as
you need them, but as you buy, don't get just a single tap, but
rather several styles such as taper, plug, bottoming, gun, etc.
Also when you buy the taps get screw machine length [short] tap
and body drills. 135 degree split points tend to be
self-centering. The exotic coated taps are great for production,
but for the home shop, offer minimal benefit.

A good place to store these are plastic ammo boxes available at
most sporting goods stores and harbor freight. Remember taps are
brittle and will chip if banged together or dropped if an edge is
hit.

To save yourself considerable aggravation and broken taps get a
good tap wrench of the appropriate size, and make or buy a tap
guide block to insure that the taps start straight [#1 cause of
broken taps]. Also good are the tap holders that pilot off the
drill spindle or spring loaded tap guides.

Use a good quality tap lube when tapping. ["A little dab will do
ya" for hand tapping]

Be sure to back the tap up frequently to break the chip and avoid
binding/breakage. When the tap gets tight, back it out, [you may
need to rock it back and forth] and clean off the chips to avoid
breakage.

Above all take your time and don't force anything.

Good luck, and let the group know how you make out.

"Terry Coombs" wrote in message
.. .
From my experience - buy what you need , when you need it , and buy the
best you can find . I have a set from Horrible Fright , they're just not
up to what I need . Buying by the piece may cost a little more in the long
run , but you'll have quality that is more expensive than most want to
spend in a lump . Spreading it out hurts less bg.
BTW , I'm replacing the ones I use the most with the best I can find ...
--
Snag
Didn't really wanna buy them all twice but ...
I will second that. In spades.
My purchase of a Mastercraft tap and die set proved to be a mistake.
BTW I have yet to see a set that goes as low as 2-56.

--
Michael Koblic,
Campbell River, BC

The most cost effective way would be to buy a bunch of used taps, at a
factory or on ebay.
--
Due to extreme spam originating from Google Groups, and their inattention
to spammers, I and many others block all articles originating
from Google Groups. If you want your postings to be seen by
more readers you will need to find a different means of
posting on Usenet.
http://improve-usenet.org/

Mr. INTJ wrote:
Howdy folks,

I a software guy groping around in E.E. and M.E. in my spare time. I
have limited access to a machine shop at work, but I want to be able
to do some things at home since I generally end up doing it at night
and on the weekends.

Good on ya. Welcome!

I've looked around at my local hardware stores and on the Internet,
but the sets that I find tend to be too large; e.g. targeted at
automobile engines (SAE?).

Here's what I think I know so far:

- I shouldn't go with a cheap set; the taps will just break (does any
manufacturer guarantee/replace their taps?)

Cheap is very bad, as you say. Good quality can be had for a few
bucks more and is well worth it.

Taps are inexpensive consumables, like abrasive paper for example.
It would be far more expensive to deal with a warranty claim than to
just purchase a replacement for both seller and buyer, so don't
expect that level of service, just enjoy reasonably priced, good
quality tools, would be my advice.

- I'm thinking that if I *either* get a standard/english/imperial *or*
metric set, I'll just end up needing the sizes I don't have, so I'm
looking to get one set with both, or two complimentary sets.

No matter what you do, I predict that you will also end up with two
or three plastic boxes with sorted and labeled wells containing the
extra taps you find at garage sales, flea markets etc.

So, why not start out with the plastic boxes to contain those taps
you *actually use* instead of a set assembled by someone who was
totally unfamiliar with your needs?
Add say three different thread pitch gauges and you will be able
to determine the size of tap to order next time you are logged into:

http://www.use-enco.com
http://www.smallparts.com
http://www.mcmaster.com

... and many many other vendors of good quality tools.

The reason I say this is that I own three different tap and die sets.
I haven't opened any of them in three years, yet I am constantly using
taps from my unofficial 'plastic boxes' assortments. It's just easier.
Each well contains several taper, plug and bottoming taps of a given size.

- The work I'm doing is generally smaller stuff - the kind of thing
you'd find in small electronic and electromechanical appliances. I
think this means I should be looking for a set with 2-56 to 1/4-inch
UNC threads.

- Then there's the question of coarse threads vs. fine. Seems like if
I had to choose, coarse would be the way to go, but as with std vs.
metric (above), I worry about constantly needing the one that I don't
have.

Don't PANIC! McMaster ships very quickly. Sometimes overnight
(often faster).
You'll find that circumstances and your thread pitch gauges will
determine which pitch is appropriate, as you will spend much time
matching the size of existing fasteners.

- The materials I use are primarily aluminum, various plastics, and
occasionally steel or brass.

Can anyone recommend a good choice in tap and die set(s), and an
online vendor (or a B&M store in San Diego)?

Save your gas, would be my suggestion. Consider how efficiently
you can work if you let the rapid delivery folks do the driving.
You have many internet vendors anxious to sell you one tap or a
thousand taps of just about any size and pitch with delivery
charges that are quite reasonable. You can search for your
unintialized variable while the guy in the truck brings you
your tools.

----------------------------------------------------------------

I attended a machining course at my local Junior College a few
years back with a pal of mine and enjoyed the heck out of it.
The price was nearly nothing and classes were held on a schedule
that was compatible with work. We each made a tap handle,
drill sharpening gauge and we ground a 3/8" lathe toolbit.

We used calipers, micrometers, various other hand tools, grinders,
drill presses, vertical mills and some very nice lathes.

Did I mention it was inexpensive and a lot of fun?

I'm just sayin....


--Winston

"F. George McDuffee" wrote in message
news
On Fri, 5 Sep 2008 17:09:18 -0700 (PDT), "Mr. INTJ"
wrote:

- The work I'm doing is generally smaller stuff - the kind of thing
you'd find in small electronic and electromechanical appliances. I
think this means I should be looking for a set with 2-56 to 1/4-inch
UNC threads.

- Then there's the question of coarse threads vs. fine. Seems like if
I had to choose, coarse would be the way to go, but as with std vs.
metric (above), I worry about constantly needing the one that I don't
have.
=================
Several good replies in this thread.

Depending in which corner of the electronics area you will
working, I think you will find a much smaller set of threads in
actual use.

My suggestion is to buy good, not necessarily the best, taps as
you need them, but as you buy, don't get just a single tap, but
rather several styles such as taper, plug, bottoming, gun, etc.
Also when you buy the taps get screw machine length [short] tap
and body drills. 135 degree split points tend to be
self-centering. The exotic coated taps are great for production,
but for the home shop, offer minimal benefit.

A good place to store these are plastic ammo boxes available at
most sporting goods stores and harbor freight. Remember taps are
brittle and will chip if banged together or dropped if an edge is
hit.

To save yourself considerable aggravation and broken taps get a
good tap wrench of the appropriate size, and make or buy a tap
guide block to insure that the taps start straight [#1 cause of
broken taps]. Also good are the tap holders that pilot off the
drill spindle or spring loaded tap guides.

Use a good quality tap lube when tapping. ["A little dab will do
ya" for hand tapping]

Be sure to back the tap up frequently to break the chip and avoid
binding/breakage. When the tap gets tight, back it out, [you may
need to rock it back and forth] and clean off the chips to avoid
breakage.

Above all take your time and don't force anything.

Good luck, and let the group know how you make out.



When I entered the machine shop as a full-time employee, my first tool was a
tap guide. it was an old shaft key, 1.25"square by 8 long, mild steel.

I drilled a series of holes from #10 thru 1/2"

Twenty years later, I reach for it at least once a week.

As George has said lots of good advice so far...

but I'll go one further than he and Jon have said about a tapping block,

build yourself a tapping fixture like this.

http://www.ggls.org/TappingFixture/

It's an afternoon project with hardware store parts.

I posted this here several years ago and got an incredible amount of
positive feedback on it, and about 5 months ago Matt Mason published this in
his "LGRR" Magizine...

Oh I'm I "buy the best" kind of guy... "Cheap tools are false economy"

--.- Dave



"Jon" wrote in message
news:bHAwk.719$Wd.490@trnddc01...

"F. George McDuffee" wrote in message
news
On Fri, 5 Sep 2008 17:09:18 -0700 (PDT), "Mr. INTJ"
wrote:

- The work I'm doing is generally smaller stuff - the kind of thing
you'd find in small electronic and electromechanical appliances. I
think this means I should be looking for a set with 2-56 to 1/4-inch
UNC threads.

- Then there's the question of coarse threads vs. fine. Seems like if
I had to choose, coarse would be the way to go, but as with std vs.
metric (above), I worry about constantly needing the one that I don't
have.
=================
Several good replies in this thread.

Depending in which corner of the electronics area you will
working, I think you will find a much smaller set of threads in
actual use.

My suggestion is to buy good, not necessarily the best, taps as
you need them, but as you buy, don't get just a single tap, but
rather several styles such as taper, plug, bottoming, gun, etc.
Also when you buy the taps get screw machine length [short] tap
and body drills. 135 degree split points tend to be
self-centering. The exotic coated taps are great for production,
but for the home shop, offer minimal benefit.

A good place to store these are plastic ammo boxes available at
most sporting goods stores and harbor freight. Remember taps are
brittle and will chip if banged together or dropped if an edge is
hit.

To save yourself considerable aggravation and broken taps get a
good tap wrench of the appropriate size, and make or buy a tap
guide block to insure that the taps start straight [#1 cause of
broken taps]. Also good are the tap holders that pilot off the
drill spindle or spring loaded tap guides.

Use a good quality tap lube when tapping. ["A little dab will do
ya" for hand tapping]

Be sure to back the tap up frequently to break the chip and avoid
binding/breakage. When the tap gets tight, back it out, [you may
need to rock it back and forth] and clean off the chips to avoid
breakage.

Above all take your time and don't force anything.

Good luck, and let the group know how you make out.



When I entered the machine shop as a full-time employee, my first tool was
a tap guide. it was an old shaft key, 1.25"square by 8 long, mild steel.

I drilled a series of holes from #10 thru 1/2"

Twenty years later, I reach for it at least once a week.

On Sun, 07 Sep 2008 15:04:55 -0700, Dave August wrote:
As George has said lots of good advice so far...
but I'll go one further than he and Jon have said about a tapping block,
build yourself a tapping fixture like this.
http://www.ggls.org/TappingFixture/
[...]
I posted this here several years ago and got an incredible amount of
positive feedback on it, and about 5 months ago Matt Mason published
this in his "LGRR" Magizine...

Oh I'm I "buy the best" kind of guy... "Cheap tools are false economy"

--.- Dave


In the TappingFixture page you write, "I suggest that you assemble the
nipple and elbow in the store and check to make sure they form a perfect
right angle, many of the elbows are not tapped perfectly square. That
way you can sort through the stock and find the best of the lot."

An alternative to sorting through the stock would be to use another
tee rather than an elbow on that corner of the fixture.

-jiw

I have given up using tap wrenches or handles.
Drill a hole, chuck the tap, tap...

--
Michael Koblic,
Campbell River, BC

"Dave August" wrote in message
...
As George has said lots of good advice so far...

but I'll go one further than he and Jon have said about a tapping block,

build yourself a tapping fixture like this.

http://www.ggls.org/TappingFixture/

It's an afternoon project with hardware store parts.

I posted this here several years ago and got an incredible amount of
positive feedback on it, and about 5 months ago Matt Mason published this
in his "LGRR" Magizine...

Oh I'm I "buy the best" kind of guy... "Cheap tools are false economy"

"F. George McDuffee" wrote in message
news
On Fri, 5 Sep 2008 17:09:18 -0700 (PDT), "Mr. INTJ"
wrote:

- The work I'm doing is generally smaller stuff - the kind of thing
you'd find in small electronic and electromechanical appliances. I
think this means I should be looking for a set with 2-56 to 1/4-inch
UNC threads.

- Then there's the question of coarse threads vs. fine. Seems like if
I had to choose, coarse would be the way to go, but as with std vs.
metric (above), I worry about constantly needing the one that I don't
have.
=================
Several good replies in this thread.

Depending in which corner of the electronics area you will
working, I think you will find a much smaller set of threads in
actual use.

My suggestion is to buy good, not necessarily the best, taps as
you need them, but as you buy, don't get just a single tap, but
rather several styles such as taper, plug, bottoming, gun, etc.
Also when you buy the taps get screw machine length [short] tap
and body drills. 135 degree split points tend to be
self-centering. The exotic coated taps are great for production,
but for the home shop, offer minimal benefit.

A good place to store these are plastic ammo boxes available at
most sporting goods stores and harbor freight. Remember taps are
brittle and will chip if banged together or dropped if an edge is
hit.

To save yourself considerable aggravation and broken taps get a
good tap wrench of the appropriate size, and make or buy a tap
guide block to insure that the taps start straight [#1 cause of
broken taps]. Also good are the tap holders that pilot off the
drill spindle or spring loaded tap guides.

Use a good quality tap lube when tapping. ["A little dab will do
ya" for hand tapping]

Be sure to back the tap up frequently to break the chip and avoid
binding/breakage. When the tap gets tight, back it out, [you may
need to rock it back and forth] and clean off the chips to avoid
breakage.

Above all take your time and don't force anything.

Good luck, and let the group know how you make out.



All the above sounds good. I'm in a similar position EE dabbling in ME &
SW...

I can get by on a few sizes I commonly use M2.5/3/4/6/8 etc. I have found
that the sprial flute machine taps are much better - faster, cut better,
break less. I often drive them in a battery drill for non critical low
volume work in plastics & aluminum. The real mech guys can probably comment
on the appropriate application of spriral flute taps. At $4 or $5 each they
are good value - my set(s) of low quality crap taps are used for "get me out
of the poo" use only.

"Michael Koblic" wrote in message
...
I have given up using tap wrenches or handles.
Drill a hole, chuck the tap, tap...

--
Michael Koblic,
Campbell River, BC



I've got an old small bench drill - I've removed the motor and belt guard
and placed a crank handle on the spindle pulley - works well for making sure
holes are tapped square without breaking taps etc.

On Sun, 7 Sep 2008 20:51:06 -0700, with neither quill nor qualm,
"Michael Koblic" quickly quoth:

I have given up using tap wrenches or handles.
Drill a hole, chuck the tap, tap...

I used Gunner's reversible VFD and big Gorton to tap a couple holes
the day I was up there. It's damned slick.

--
Music washes away from the soul the dust of everyday life.
---- --Unknown

There are machines that are called "tappers". They look very much like
power drills, but have a chuck suitable for holding square shank taps
properly, and reverse when pulled. They are actually very nifty if you
have money to buy one, new or used. They also help keep taps straight,
etc.

Example is he

http://www.toolbarn.com/product/bosch/1462VS/

The greatest tapping compound is sold by Doall and is called
Accu-lube. It has consistency similar to vaseline, sticks well to the
tap, and lubricates well.

i