Followup to my earlier question to the newsgroup about lathe rust etc

Stopped by the seller today.

That Clausing Colchester lathe that I was asking about, I think looks
worse on photos:

http://igor.chudov.com/tmp/Clausing-Lathe/

than it is actually is. The thin layer of rust looks especially bad
due to presence of dried gunk and woodworking dust. There is a lot of
dust and gunk on the ways and they are not actually rusted. But the
sides are.

The father of the owner is a woodworker, who uses his Bridgeport mill
to machine wood. Hence the wood dust. No ****.

I have not been able to ascertain how worn the lathe is. It may be
worn or it may not be worn. Haven't a clue.

The gears and stuff, look OK.

It is either 13x36, or 13x40.

There is a ****load of tooling, extra chuck, dogs, and so on included
with it. All with some rust, though, but after 2 hours of wirebrushing
most rust on the tooling will be gone. The machine itself will be
harder.

It is a geared lathe, not varidrive. It seemed to turn when the belt
was pulled and engaged the clutch.

It looks exactly like pictures he

http://www.cnczone.com/forums/showthread.php?t=25121

The best matching picture from http://www.lathes.co.uk is this:

http://www.lathes.co.uk/colchester/page2.html

the picture is this one

http://www.lathes.co.uk/colchester/img0.gif

I believe that it pictures a lathe that is identical to mine. Could
not find any difference.

There is enough electrics in the back to make me suspect that the
motor may be 2 speed.

The price was $425.

The motor looks very big, maybe 3 or 5 HP. I hope that it is 3 HP as I
have a 3.7 kW VFD that could run it.

Anyway, I paid with check and I will pick up in perhaps 2-3 weeks. The
sellers looked nice enough that I trusted them with the money, and I
took some parts of the lathe with me.

Meanwhile I will clear out my garage and make a platform on casters
to move it around. (those heavy duty casters from the Bridgeport
bed). Their garage is also godawfully messy and casters are a must to
maneuver it.

I have a question for now.

What is the weight of it?
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Ignoramus5355 wrote:


That Clausing Colchester lathe that I was asking about, I think looks
worse on photos:

The price was $425.


I enjoy working on well designed and well built machinery.
If all you have to do is take it apart, clean off the dirt and rust,
lube it up, and put it back together, then it looks like fun to me.

At that price, the transportation is a bigger deal than the cost.

I bought a Clausing 5914 for $1200 that had so much grime, I did not
know that it was painted seafoam green for a month.

On 2008-06-28, Clark Magnuson wrote:
Ignoramus5355 wrote:


That Clausing Colchester lathe that I was asking about, I think looks
worse on photos:

The price was $425.


I enjoy working on well designed and well built machinery.

I do, as well.

If all you have to do is take it apart, clean off the dirt and rust,
lube it up, and put it back together, then it looks like fun to me.

I hope so, as well, but in addition to it I would like to rewire it
with a VFD.

At that price, the transportation is a bigger deal than the cost.

I think that with a little bit of effort, I can make a sturdy cart on
casters, and put it on that cart.

I bought a Clausing 5914 for $1200 that had so much grime, I did not
know that it was painted seafoam green for a month.

scary stuff, no, I know that mine is machinery grey.
--
Due to extreme spam originating from Google Groups, and their inattention
to spammers, I and many others block all articles originating
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"Ignoramus5355" wrote in message
...
Followup to my earlier question to the newsgroup about lathe rust etc

Stopped by the seller today.

That Clausing Colchester lathe that I was asking about, I think looks
worse on photos:

http://igor.chudov.com/tmp/Clausing-Lathe/

than it is actually is. The thin layer of rust looks especially bad
due to presence of dried gunk and woodworking dust. There is a lot of
dust and gunk on the ways and they are not actually rusted. But the
sides are.

The father of the owner is a woodworker, who uses his Bridgeport mill
to machine wood. Hence the wood dust. No ****.

I have not been able to ascertain how worn the lathe is. It may be
worn or it may not be worn. Haven't a clue.

The gears and stuff, look OK.

It is either 13x36, or 13x40.

There is a ****load of tooling, extra chuck, dogs, and so on included
with it. All with some rust, though, but after 2 hours of wirebrushing
most rust on the tooling will be gone. The machine itself will be
harder.

It is a geared lathe, not varidrive. It seemed to turn when the belt
was pulled and engaged the clutch.

It looks exactly like pictures he

http://www.cnczone.com/forums/showthread.php?t=25121

The best matching picture from http://www.lathes.co.uk is this:

http://www.lathes.co.uk/colchester/page2.html

the picture is this one

http://www.lathes.co.uk/colchester/img0.gif

I believe that it pictures a lathe that is identical to mine. Could
not find any difference.

There is enough electrics in the back to make me suspect that the
motor may be 2 speed.

The price was $425.

The motor looks very big, maybe 3 or 5 HP. I hope that it is 3 HP as I
have a 3.7 kW VFD that could run it.

Anyway, I paid with check and I will pick up in perhaps 2-3 weeks. The
sellers looked nice enough that I trusted them with the money, and I
took some parts of the lathe with me.

Meanwhile I will clear out my garage and make a platform on casters
to move it around. (those heavy duty casters from the Bridgeport
bed). Their garage is also godawfully messy and casters are a must to
maneuver it.

I have a question for now.

What is the weight of it?

I've got a Clausing-Colchester brochure with a 13x36 lathe that looks
similar but nor identical to yours and it says the weight was 1410 lbs.
They came standard with eiher a single speed 1-1/2 HP or two speed 1-1/2-3
HP motor. Model numbers were 65## with both straight bed and gap bed
versions available, where the "##" differed according to bed length, motor
size and speed, and gap or no gap.

Mike

On 2008-06-29, Mike Henry wrote:

I've got a Clausing-Colchester brochure with a 13x36 lathe that looks
similar but nor identical to yours and it says the weight was 1410 lbs.
They came standard with eiher a single speed 1-1/2 HP or two speed 1-1/2-3
HP motor. Model numbers were 65## with both straight bed and gap bed
versions available, where the "##" differed according to bed length, motor
size and speed, and gap or no gap.

Mike, thanks a lot. Does your brochure talk about base dimensions? How
many pages are in it, just curious?

i


--
Due to extreme spam originating from Google Groups, and their inattention
to spammers, I and many others block all articles originating
from Google Groups. If you want your postings to be seen by
more readers you will need to find a different means of
posting on Usenet.
http://improve-usenet.org/

On Fri, 27 Jun 2008 19:12:34 -0500, Ignoramus5355
wrote:

Followup to my earlier question to the newsgroup about lathe rust etc

Stopped by the seller today.

That Clausing Colchester lathe that I was asking about, I think looks
worse on photos:

http://igor.chudov.com/tmp/Clausing-Lathe/

than it is actually is. The thin layer of rust looks especially bad
due to presence of dried gunk and woodworking dust. There is a lot of
dust and gunk on the ways and they are not actually rusted. But the
sides are.

The father of the owner is a woodworker, who uses his Bridgeport mill
to machine wood. Hence the wood dust. No ****.

I have not been able to ascertain how worn the lathe is. It may be
worn or it may not be worn. Haven't a clue.

The gears and stuff, look OK.

It is either 13x36, or 13x40.

Its a 13x36, with a spindle nose big enough for 5c collets, though you
need the insert to hold the collets, and a handwheel and drawtube or
lever actuated collet closer. I made up a handwheel and long draw
tube.

There is a ****load of tooling, extra chuck, dogs, and so on included
with it. All with some rust, though, but after 2 hours of wirebrushing
most rust on the tooling will be gone. The machine itself will be
harder.

Spray it down with PBlaster..and go damned easy with that wire brush.
Use a brass one after the Blaster has had a chance to soak in.

It is a geared lathe, not varidrive. It seemed to turn when the belt
was pulled and engaged the clutch.

Yes, it IS a gear head. And it will cut a chip that will make your
eyes bug out.

It looks exactly like pictures he

http://www.cnczone.com/forums/showthread.php?t=25121

The best matching picture from http://www.lathes.co.uk is this:

http://www.lathes.co.uk/colchester/page2.html

the picture is this one

http://www.lathes.co.uk/colchester/img0.gif

I believe that it pictures a lathe that is identical to mine. Could
not find any difference.

There is enough electrics in the back to make me suspect that the
motor may be 2 speed.

It is. that lever with the red knob is the forward/reverse,. the
smaller lever is high/low range.

The price was $425.

you SUCK!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

The motor looks very big, maybe 3 or 5 HP. I hope that it is 3 HP as I
have a 3.7 kW VFD that could run it.

Its 3hp.

Anyway, I paid with check and I will pick up in perhaps 2-3 weeks. The
sellers looked nice enough that I trusted them with the money, and I
took some parts of the lathe with me.

Meanwhile I will clear out my garage and make a platform on casters
to move it around. (those heavy duty casters from the Bridgeport
bed). Their garage is also godawfully messy and casters are a must to
maneuver it.


Iggy..this lathe NEEDS to be mounted flat on the floor. Its NOT a
portable. Sorry..if you need a portable, buy a Unimat.

It WILL twist. trust me on this.
I have a question for now.

What is the weight of it?


About 1600 lbs

Check the hatch under the center of the lathe, the face plates were
normally stored in there


gunner

at yoyodyne they were all veterans of the psychic wars
exiled from the eighth dimension where the winds of limbo roar"
* * * * * * *mariposa rand mair theal

On Fri, 27 Jun 2008 22:11:16 -0500, Ignoramus5355
wrote:

On 2008-06-28, Clark Magnuson wrote:
Ignoramus5355 wrote:


That Clausing Colchester lathe that I was asking about, I think looks
worse on photos:

The price was $425.


I enjoy working on well designed and well built machinery.

I do, as well.

If all you have to do is take it apart, clean off the dirt and rust,
lube it up, and put it back together, then it looks like fun to me.

I hope so, as well, but in addition to it I would like to rewire it
with a VFD.

it wont work as well with a vfd.

Btw..thats a master, and its a model 1 1/2, later model with the
safety carraige. I misspoke about it being a Chipmaster...a lathe i
sold not long ago. To a poster here IRRC.



At that price, the transportation is a bigger deal than the cost.

I think that with a little bit of effort, I can make a sturdy cart on
casters, and put it on that cart.

just to move it I hope..not to run it.

Gunner


I bought a Clausing 5914 for $1200 that had so much grime, I did not
know that it was painted seafoam green for a month.

scary stuff, no, I know that mine is machinery grey.

at yoyodyne they were all veterans of the psychic wars
exiled from the eighth dimension where the winds of limbo roar"
* * * * * * *mariposa rand mair theal

"Ignoramus14972" wrote in message
...
On 2008-06-29, Mike Henry wrote:

I've got a Clausing-Colchester brochure with a 13x36 lathe that looks
similar but nor identical to yours and it says the weight was 1410 lbs.
They came standard with eiher a single speed 1-1/2 HP or two speed
1-1/2-3
HP motor. Model numbers were 65## with both straight bed and gap bed
versions available, where the "##" differed according to bed length,
motor
size and speed, and gap or no gap.

Mike, thanks a lot. Does your brochure talk about base dimensions? How
many pages are in it, just curious?


It's 16 pages but only a couple on the 13" lathes, with the rest dedicated
to the 15" and 17" lathes in the series or the features common to all three.

It does show base dimensions - the 13" is around 60" long and about 28" deep
at the widest point. It mentions 4 jacking holes, two at each end, but no
indication if those are for floor mounting or something like jacking the bed
in the lathe stand to tweal alignmnet.

It does have an example of the tolerance test sheet that the lathes shipped
with. You might find that useful if you plan to re-furbish and sell the
lathe.

On 2008-06-29, Mike Henry wrote:

"Ignoramus14972" wrote in message
...
On 2008-06-29, Mike Henry wrote:

I've got a Clausing-Colchester brochure with a 13x36 lathe that looks
similar but nor identical to yours and it says the weight was 1410 lbs.
They came standard with eiher a single speed 1-1/2 HP or two speed
1-1/2-3
HP motor. Model numbers were 65## with both straight bed and gap bed
versions available, where the "##" differed according to bed length,
motor
size and speed, and gap or no gap.

Mike, thanks a lot. Does your brochure talk about base dimensions? How
many pages are in it, just curious?


It's 16 pages but only a couple on the 13" lathes, with the rest dedicated
to the 15" and 17" lathes in the series or the features common to all three.

It does show base dimensions - the 13" is around 60" long and about 28" deep
at the widest point. It mentions 4 jacking holes, two at each end, but no
indication if those are for floor mounting or something like jacking the bed
in the lathe stand to tweal alignmnet.

It does have an example of the tolerance test sheet that the lathes shipped
with. You might find that useful if you plan to re-furbish and sell the
lathe.


Mike, would it be possible, to just take a photo of the pages, and
maybe shoot me an email with them?

Thanks a lot. I am trying to decide how to make it movable (Gunner's
points notwithstanding)

--
Due to extreme spam originating from Google Groups, and their inattention
to spammers, I and many others block all articles originating
from Google Groups. If you want your postings to be seen by
more readers you will need to find a different means of
posting on Usenet.
http://improve-usenet.org/

On 2008-06-29, Gunner Asch wrote:
It is either 13x36, or 13x40.

Its a 13x36, with a spindle nose big enough for 5c collets, though you

Great to know, thanks.

need the insert to hold the collets, and a handwheel and drawtube or
lever actuated collet closer. I made up a handwheel and long draw
tube.

Do you have pictures of that? Just curious.

There is a ****load of tooling, extra chuck, dogs, and so on included
with it. All with some rust, though, but after 2 hours of wirebrushing
most rust on the tooling will be gone. The machine itself will be
harder.

Spray it down with PBlaster..and go damned easy with that wire brush.
Use a brass one after the Blaster has had a chance to soak in.

OK, will try to find one.

It is a geared lathe, not varidrive. It seemed to turn when the belt
was pulled and engaged the clutch.

Yes, it IS a gear head. And it will cut a chip that will make your
eyes bug out.

Nice to know. I have seen some big chips before.

It looks exactly like pictures he

http://www.cnczone.com/forums/showthread.php?t=25121

The best matching picture from http://www.lathes.co.uk is this:

http://www.lathes.co.uk/colchester/page2.html

the picture is this one

http://www.lathes.co.uk/colchester/img0.gif

I believe that it pictures a lathe that is identical to mine. Could
not find any difference.

There is enough electrics in the back to make me suspect that the
motor may be 2 speed.

It is. that lever with the red knob is the forward/reverse,. the
smaller lever is high/low range.

OK

The price was $425.

you SUCK!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

The motor looks very big, maybe 3 or 5 HP. I hope that it is 3 HP as I
have a 3.7 kW VFD that could run it.

Its 3hp.

Good size. Just about right for a lot of reasons.

Anyway, I paid with check and I will pick up in perhaps 2-3 weeks. The
sellers looked nice enough that I trusted them with the money, and I
took some parts of the lathe with me.

Meanwhile I will clear out my garage and make a platform on casters
to move it around. (those heavy duty casters from the Bridgeport
bed). Their garage is also godawfully messy and casters are a must to
maneuver it.


Iggy..this lathe NEEDS to be mounted flat on the floor. Its NOT a
portable. Sorry..if you need a portable, buy a Unimat.

Well, I need to move it around while I am working on it, I can always
stick enough 4x4 under it when I want it to stay in one place.

It WILL twist. trust me on this.
I have a question for now.

What is the weight of it?


About 1600 lbs

Check the hatch under the center of the lathe, the face plates were
normally stored in there

I will grab the tooling in a few days and will start working on
degreasing it. May just go at some of it with hydrochloric acid. I
have a good handle on the process.

--
Due to extreme spam originating from Google Groups, and their inattention
to spammers, I and many others block all articles originating
from Google Groups. If you want your postings to be seen by
more readers you will need to find a different means of
posting on Usenet.
http://improve-usenet.org/

Ignoramus5355 wrote:
Followup to my earlier question to the newsgroup about lathe rust etc

Stopped by the seller today.

That Clausing Colchester lathe that I was asking about, I think looks
worse on photos:

http://igor.chudov.com/tmp/Clausing-Lathe/

than it is actually is. The thin layer of rust looks especially bad
due to presence of dried gunk and woodworking dust. There is a lot of
dust and gunk on the ways and they are not actually rusted. But the
sides are.

Well, that sounds better! Sides of the ways are rusted? Those
are not a precision surface, so you can just rub with steel wool.
The father of the owner is a woodworker, who uses his Bridgeport mill
to machine wood. Hence the wood dust. No ****.

Wood dust can be corrosive, so you want to get it all out.
I have not been able to ascertain how worn the lathe is. It may be
worn or it may not be worn. Haven't a clue.

Lube liberally, and then try turning something and check for
diameter change along the length. Of course, you really want to
level the bed to remove twist first.

Jon

In article ,
Ignoramus5355 wrote:

On 2008-06-28, Clark Magnuson wrote:
Ignoramus5355 wrote:


That Clausing Colchester lathe that I was asking about, I think looks
worse on photos:

The price was $425.


I enjoy working on well designed and well built machinery.

I do, as well.

If all you have to do is take it apart, clean off the dirt and rust,
lube it up, and put it back together, then it looks like fun to me.

I hope so, as well, but in addition to it I would like to rewire it
with a VFD.

At that price, the transportation is a bigger deal than the cost.

Clausing has instructions on how to move their lathes in the manual,
which can help avoid a blunder. They specifically warn against using a
forklift to lift a 5914 by the chip pan, instead suggesting how to use
slings, and show how to block things to avoid bending any of the long
rods.

As it happened, the rigger I hired did know how to do it, so no problem,
but in retrospect, it would have been better to have taken the model and
serial number, and bought a manual from Clausing before the lathe
arrived.


I think that with a little bit of effort, I can make a sturdy cart on
casters, and put it on that cart.

Gunner is right about not running a lathe on a cart. The lathe bed will
twist, causing all sorts of problems.

In the manual is the lathe bed levelling procedure, which requires a
single machinist's precision level with sensitivity of at least 0.003"
in 6" (the minimum length that will span the bed ways).

The lathe levelling is repeated every time the lathe is moved, and
verified periodically between moves.

Milling machines are not nearly as sensitive to levelling, so that fact
that the Bridgeport doesn't care isn't good evidence that a lathe won't
care.

Joe Gwinn

On 2008-06-30, Joseph Gwinn wrote:
In article ,
Ignoramus5355 wrote:

On 2008-06-28, Clark Magnuson wrote:
Ignoramus5355 wrote:


That Clausing Colchester lathe that I was asking about, I think looks
worse on photos:

The price was $425.


I enjoy working on well designed and well built machinery.

I do, as well.

If all you have to do is take it apart, clean off the dirt and rust,
lube it up, and put it back together, then it looks like fun to me.

I hope so, as well, but in addition to it I would like to rewire it
with a VFD.

At that price, the transportation is a bigger deal than the cost.

Clausing has instructions on how to move their lathes in the manual,
which can help avoid a blunder. They specifically warn against using a
forklift to lift a 5914 by the chip pan, instead suggesting how to use
slings, and show how to block things to avoid bending any of the long
rods.

This lathe, has a different style cabinet. I think that I could either
bolt casters underneath (that would be special heavy duty casters
rated at 2,400 lbs each) or make a cart.

As it happened, the rigger I hired did know how to do it, so no problem,
but in retrospect, it would have been better to have taken the model and
serial number, and bought a manual from Clausing before the lathe
arrived.


I think that with a little bit of effort, I can make a sturdy cart on
casters, and put it on that cart.

Gunner is right about not running a lathe on a cart. The lathe bed will
twist, causing all sorts of problems.

In the manual is the lathe bed levelling procedure, which requires a
single machinist's precision level with sensitivity of at least 0.003"
in 6" (the minimum length that will span the bed ways).

The lathe levelling is repeated every time the lathe is moved, and
verified periodically between moves.

Milling machines are not nearly as sensitive to levelling, so that fact
that the Bridgeport doesn't care isn't good evidence that a lathe won't
care.

Joe, I need to move it around for two reasons, one is to get it home,
and second for ease of restoration. If that negatively impacts its
accuracy, so be it, I do not care at this point, I just want easy
access to it.

--
Due to extreme spam originating from Google Groups, and their inattention
to spammers, I and many others block all articles originating
from Google Groups. If you want your postings to be seen by
more readers you will need to find a different means of
posting on Usenet.
http://improve-usenet.org/

On Mon, 30 Jun 2008 09:20:01 -0500, Ignoramus5615
wrote:

On 2008-06-30, Joseph Gwinn wrote:
In article ,
Ignoramus5355 wrote:

On 2008-06-28, Clark Magnuson wrote:
Ignoramus5355 wrote:


That Clausing Colchester lathe that I was asking about, I think looks
worse on photos:

The price was $425.


I enjoy working on well designed and well built machinery.

I do, as well.

If all you have to do is take it apart, clean off the dirt and rust,
lube it up, and put it back together, then it looks like fun to me.

I hope so, as well, but in addition to it I would like to rewire it
with a VFD.

At that price, the transportation is a bigger deal than the cost.

Clausing has instructions on how to move their lathes in the manual,
which can help avoid a blunder. They specifically warn against using a
forklift to lift a 5914 by the chip pan, instead suggesting how to use
slings, and show how to block things to avoid bending any of the long
rods.

This lathe, has a different style cabinet. I think that I could either
bolt casters underneath (that would be special heavy duty casters
rated at 2,400 lbs each) or make a cart.

Clausing Colchester supplied a lifting ring and clamp to lift the
13x36 by the ways, at the balance point near the headstock.

It came up frome between the ways, with a top clamp to hold it in
place. pretty simple actually.

I may..may have the manual here in the library, but I just completed
building another 8x10' book case, so it may be a bit before I can find
it..the ex has been helping put the books back..but a quick browse
shows Combat Photography next to Small Boat Building.....



As it happened, the rigger I hired did know how to do it, so no problem,
but in retrospect, it would have been better to have taken the model and
serial number, and bought a manual from Clausing before the lathe
arrived.


I think that with a little bit of effort, I can make a sturdy cart on
casters, and put it on that cart.

Gunner is right about not running a lathe on a cart. The lathe bed will
twist, causing all sorts of problems.

In the manual is the lathe bed levelling procedure, which requires a
single machinist's precision level with sensitivity of at least 0.003"
in 6" (the minimum length that will span the bed ways).

The lathe levelling is repeated every time the lathe is moved, and
verified periodically between moves.

Milling machines are not nearly as sensitive to levelling, so that fact
that the Bridgeport doesn't care isn't good evidence that a lathe won't
care.

Joe, I need to move it around for two reasons, one is to get it home,
and second for ease of restoration. If that negatively impacts its
accuracy, so be it, I do not care at this point, I just want easy
access to it.


"The American people will never knowingly adopt socialism, but under the
name of liberalism they will adopt every fragment of the socialist program
until one day America will be a socialist nation without ever knowing how it
happened." -- Norman Thomas, American socialist

On 2008-06-30, Gunner Asch wrote:

Clausing Colchester supplied a lifting ring and clamp to lift the
13x36 by the ways, at the balance point near the headstock.

Yes, it says 7/8" Whitworth (in the manual for a smaller but similar
lathe)

It came up frome between the ways, with a top clamp to hold it in
place. pretty simple actually.

I may..may have the manual here in the library, but I just completed
building another 8x10' book case, so it may be a bit before I can find
it..the ex has been helping put the books back..but a quick browse
shows Combat Photography next to Small Boat Building.....

I need to get rid of some books, running out of space also.

Seriously, coming back to this casters issue, I think that this boils
down to the principle of putting first things first. In this instance,
the first thing is to get it home and to clean it, wire it and to get
it to run.

And that is accomplished much better, if it is put on casters.

i

On Mon, 30 Jun 2008 14:32:17 -0500, Ignoramus5615
wrote:

On 2008-06-30, Gunner Asch wrote:

Clausing Colchester supplied a lifting ring and clamp to lift the
13x36 by the ways, at the balance point near the headstock.

Yes, it says 7/8" Whitworth (in the manual for a smaller but similar
lathe)

It came up frome between the ways, with a top clamp to hold it in
place. pretty simple actually.

I may..may have the manual here in the library, but I just completed
building another 8x10' book case, so it may be a bit before I can find
it..the ex has been helping put the books back..but a quick browse
shows Combat Photography next to Small Boat Building.....

I need to get rid of some books, running out of space also.

Seriously, coming back to this casters issue, I think that this boils
down to the principle of putting first things first. In this instance,
the first thing is to get it home and to clean it, wire it and to get
it to run.

And that is accomplished much better, if it is put on casters.

i


Getting it to run, cleaning it up, yes indeed, casters make an
excellent idea.

Running it on a cart, and expecting any sort of accuracy beyond
"poor" is not.

Ever wonder why no machine shops have their lathes, big or small, on
casters?

Because they cant afford to turn out scrap.

Gunner


"The American people will never knowingly adopt socialism, but under the
name of liberalism they will adopt every fragment of the socialist program
until one day America will be a socialist nation without ever knowing how it
happened." -- Norman Thomas, American socialist

On 2008-06-30, Gunner Asch wrote:
On Mon, 30 Jun 2008 14:32:17 -0500, Ignoramus5615
wrote:

On 2008-06-30, Gunner Asch wrote:

Clausing Colchester supplied a lifting ring and clamp to lift the
13x36 by the ways, at the balance point near the headstock.

Yes, it says 7/8" Whitworth (in the manual for a smaller but similar
lathe)

It came up frome between the ways, with a top clamp to hold it in
place. pretty simple actually.

I may..may have the manual here in the library, but I just completed
building another 8x10' book case, so it may be a bit before I can find
it..the ex has been helping put the books back..but a quick browse
shows Combat Photography next to Small Boat Building.....

I need to get rid of some books, running out of space also.

Seriously, coming back to this casters issue, I think that this boils
down to the principle of putting first things first. In this instance,
the first thing is to get it home and to clean it, wire it and to get
it to run.

And that is accomplished much better, if it is put on casters.

i


Getting it to run, cleaning it up, yes indeed, casters make an
excellent idea.

Running it on a cart, and expecting any sort of accuracy beyond
"poor" is not.

Ever wonder why no machine shops have their lathes, big or small, on
casters?

Because they cant afford to turn out scrap.

Sounds like we agree here.

i
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"Ignoramus28029" wrote in message
...

Mike, would it be possible, to just take a photo of the pages, and
maybe shoot me an email with them?

Igor,

If I decoded your email correctly, you should have something in your inbox
at the algebra.com domain address.

If not shoot me an email.

Mike

Mike, thanks SO much, I am printing it as we speak and, if you do not
mind, I have placed it on the webpage in hopes that someone else might
find it via a web search. Thanks a lot for your help. Stop by if you
want to have a look at it once I bring it home.

i

On 2008-07-01, Mike Henry wrote:

"Ignoramus28029" wrote in message
...

Mike, would it be possible, to just take a photo of the pages, and
maybe shoot me an email with them?

Igor,

If I decoded your email correctly, you should have something in your inbox
at the algebra.com domain address.

If not shoot me an email.

Mike


--
Due to extreme spam originating from Google Groups, and their inattention
to spammers, I and many others block all articles originating
from Google Groups. If you want your postings to be seen by
more readers you will need to find a different means of
posting on Usenet.
http://improve-usenet.org/

"Ignoramus5615" wrote in message
...
Mike, thanks SO much, I am printing it as we speak and, if you do not
mind, I have placed it on the webpage in hopes that someone else might
find it via a web search. Thanks a lot for your help. Stop by if you
want to have a look at it once I bring it home.


Igor, feel free to share the brochure. Does the brochure lathe look like
yours?

On 2008-07-01, Mike Henry wrote:

"Ignoramus5615" wrote in message
...
Mike, thanks SO much, I am printing it as we speak and, if you do not
mind, I have placed it on the webpage in hopes that someone else might
find it via a web search. Thanks a lot for your help. Stop by if you
want to have a look at it once I bring it home.


Igor, feel free to share the brochure. Does the brochure lathe look like
yours?


Yes, indeed, it does.

I will go there today to pick up tooling.
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Due to extreme spam originating from Google Groups, and their inattention
to spammers, I and many others block all articles originating
from Google Groups. If you want your postings to be seen by
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In article ,
Ignoramus5615 wrote:

On 2008-06-30, Joseph Gwinn wrote:
In article ,
Ignoramus5355 wrote:

On 2008-06-28, Clark Magnuson wrote:
Ignoramus5355 wrote:


That Clausing Colchester lathe that I was asking about, I think looks
worse on photos:

The price was $425.


I enjoy working on well designed and well built machinery.

I do, as well.

If all you have to do is take it apart, clean off the dirt and rust,
lube it up, and put it back together, then it looks like fun to me.

I hope so, as well, but in addition to it I would like to rewire it
with a VFD.

At that price, the transportation is a bigger deal than the cost.

Clausing has instructions on how to move their lathes in the manual,
which can help avoid a blunder. They specifically warn against using a
forklift to lift a 5914 by the chip pan, instead suggesting how to use
slings, and show how to block things to avoid bending any of the long
rods.

This lathe, has a different style cabinet. I think that I could either
bolt casters underneath (that would be special heavy duty casters
rated at 2,400 lbs each) or make a cart.

As it happened, the rigger I hired did know how to do it, so no problem,
but in retrospect, it would have been better to have taken the model and
serial number, and bought a manual from Clausing before the lathe
arrived.


I think that with a little bit of effort, I can make a sturdy cart on
casters, and put it on that cart.

Gunner is right about not running a lathe on a cart. The lathe bed will
twist, causing all sorts of problems.

In the manual is the lathe bed levelling procedure, which requires a
single machinist's precision level with sensitivity of at least 0.003"
in 6" (the minimum length that will span the bed ways).

The lathe levelling is repeated every time the lathe is moved, and
verified periodically between moves.

Milling machines are not nearly as sensitive to levelling, so that fact
that the Bridgeport doesn't care isn't good evidence that a lathe won't
care.

Joe, I need to move it around for two reasons, one is to get it home,
and second for ease of restoration. If that negatively impacts its
accuracy, so be it, I do not care at this point, I just want easy
access to it.

Well, there is an approach that *may* work:

Make a steel deck (plate with deep welded-on stringers) designed for
stiffness more than strength. Put three (not four) casters on it, two
fore and aft under the headstock, and the third centered under the
tailstock. Bolt lathe to deck. Set deck on blocks. Level lathe as
directed in the manual. Take deck off the blocks. If the deck is stiff
enough, it won't twist the lathe bed too badly as you move it around.
Level is used as a proxy for straight, which is the real requirement, so
if the lathe bed remains straight courtesy of the deck, it should work
out OK.

Joe Gwinn