Metalworking (rec.crafts.metalworking) Discuss various aspects of working with metal, such as machining, welding, metal joining, screwing, casting, hardening/tempering, blacksmithing/forging, spinning and hammer work, sheet metal work.

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Default Bolting a trailer and welding?

In article xcZNj.8539$iI3.5273@trnddc06,
Winston wrote:

Try:
http://www.northerntool.com/


Ahhh, *now* we're talking. Thanks.

(Getting ready to build my first trailer. More than a little nervous.)

--
-Ed Falk,
http://thespamdiaries.blogspot.com/
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Default Bolting a trailer and welding?

In article m7-dnRUzepC4TJXVnZ2dnUVZ_oCvnZ2d@internetofbeaufortco unty,
Al Patrick wrote:

A search for books took me to a 161 url. Shortened it is
http://tinyurl.com/5rhrz2 You'll need BOTH book 1 & 2. I got book 1
some time ago and found it takes you to a certain point and bacically
says you need book 2! ;-)


Awesome; I just ordered them.

--
-Ed Falk,
http://thespamdiaries.blogspot.com/
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Default Bolting a trailer and welding?

On Apr 18, 1:48*pm, clare at snyder dot ontario dot canada wrote:
On Fri, 18 Apr 2008 10:27:04 -0700 (PDT), stryped





wrote:
On Apr 18, 10:52*am, Bruce L. Bergman
wrote:
On Thu, 17 Apr 2008 10:23:31, stryped wrote:
On Apr 17, 10:43*am, Bruce L. Bergman wrote:
* Oh, and another way to gusset a tubing structure neatly at a 90 or
acute angle (trailer A to chassis) is to cut a "Cheese Wedge" out of
the same size tubing with the outer wall intact. *Then weld it inside
the corner after welding and finish grinding the main joint.


* Paint the 'inside' areas of frame and gusset with red primer before
closing it up, try to keep the rust from starting. *Can be sloppy or
runny, nobody will /ever/ see it. * * *You hope. *;-)


You lost me a little bit. DO you have an example?


By cheese wedge are you just talkign about using tubing instead of a
solid plate gusset?


* Yes - you take the same square tubing and set the compound angle on
your saw to match the inside of the join, and you take off the ends of
the tubing to look like a wedge sliced from a square pizza. *Or a
slice of cake. *You leave the top and bottom (triangular) and one
side. *Then you weld that wedge to the inside of the corner.


Should you really grind a weld after you are finished?


* Always. *If you did it right (even if a bit sloppily) you will clean
off the bumps and slag spatter, and make a surface that can be painted
easily. *If you went for good penetration of the parent metal you can
also grind the joint down totally flat and it will look like one piece
that curves.


* And if the weld is bad, you'll see it right away and can fix it. *If
the weld metal didn't penetrate and stick to the parent metal, the
wheel will peel it right off. *Or you'll see big bubbles and holes
that were hiding under the surface...


* It takes a LOT of practice to get beautiful tightly whorled weld
beads where it won't need at least a little grinder clean-up.


* When you get that good where you want people to see the stitching,
you just hit it with the knotted wire wheel (used for surface prep
before welding) to knock off the spatter dingleberries and call it
done.


* * -- Bruce --


One thing I found out. That metal is bigger than I thought. It is 4x4
1/4 inch thick.


1.) Will my AC 220 volt buzz box welder or my Hobart MIg 130 amp weld
it?


2.) Is this stuff too heavey for a small 10 foot trailer? I can get
about 80 feet of it for about 80 bucks so it is cheaper than puchasing
angle iron.


3.) If this trialer weights almost 2000 lbs, will it need brakes?


It will need brakes FOR SURE.
** Posted fromhttp://www.teranews.com**- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -


I think I meant 1000 lbs. I guess it would still need brakes.
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Default Bolting a trailer and welding?

On Fri, 18 Apr 2008 19:04:14 +0000 (UTC), with neither quill nor
qualm, (Edward A. Falk) quickly quoth:

In article m7-dnRUzepC4TJXVnZ2dnUVZ_oCvnZ2d@internetofbeaufortco unty,
Al Patrick wrote:

A search for books took me to a 161 url. Shortened it is
http://tinyurl.com/5rhrz2 You'll need BOTH book 1 & 2. I got book 1
some time ago and found it takes you to a certain point and bacically
says you need book 2! ;-)


Awesome; I just ordered them.


I hope you read the reviews on Amazon before doing so. Most were
negative. http://tinyurl.com/6o2lzp

--
The only difference between a rut and a grave...is in their dimensions.
-- Ellen Glasglow
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Default Bolting a trailer and welding?

stryped wrote:

3.) If this trialer weights almost 2000 lbs, will it need brakes?


If it weighed zero lbs and you added a 2000 lb load would you want brakes"

I *think* you want brakes!


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Default Bolting a trailer and welding?

Larry Jaques wrote:
On Fri, 18 Apr 2008 19:04:14 +0000 (UTC), with neither quill nor
qualm, (Edward A. Falk) quickly quoth:

In article m7-dnRUzepC4TJXVnZ2dnUVZ_oCvnZ2d@internetofbeaufortco unty,
Al Patrick wrote:

A search for books took me to a 161 url. Shortened it is
http://tinyurl.com/5rhrz2 You'll need BOTH book 1 & 2. I got book 1
some time ago and found it takes you to a certain point and bacically
says you need book 2! ;-)

Awesome; I just ordered them.


I hope you read the reviews on Amazon before doing so. Most were
negative. http://tinyurl.com/6o2lzp


I went to your url and only found one review for each book. The
"reviewer" of book 1 said he was going to buy it and they wanted $8 to
ship it to him. This probably ticked him off and affected his rating
entitled *ripoff shipping*. He rated it a 1 out of 5.

The review of Bk 2 said, "if you are questioning whether or not you can
build a trailer go ahead and buy this book as it will give you some
confidence. But watch out because it is full of mistakes. Least
important are figure numbers in the text not matching up with the
figures. most important are sloppy mistakes in the engineering terms he
describes. if you know what he is talking about you can figure out what
he meant to say, but if you know what he is talking about you dont need
this book. if you dont know what he is talking about the instruction
will not make sense."

The reviewer of Bk 2 rated it 3 out of 5, which might be pretty close as
on the northern site they rate it 3.5 out of 5. That was two reviews.
1 a 5. Other a 2. Average 3.5.

The *5* said this, "'A very well written book. Was really impressed on
the time that was spent looking at the project from the welders side. A
good book for every welder want-a-be!'

What is your level of technical expertise?: Professional"

The *2* said this, "'More useful than volume one. It is technical but
the author explains the technical aspects well enough. It helps you to
consider how the load and other forces affect the trailer and how that
should impact your design and material choice. Overall, if you just want
a simply trailer, then buy a set of plans. If you have need for a
special type of trailer, then find someone else to build it for you, use
the time it would take to learn this stuff and apply it somewhere else,
unless of course you intend on building trailers for a living.'

What is your level of technical expertise?: Home Handyman"

The one considered himself a professional and the other a handyman.

Al
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Default Bolting a trailer and welding?

On Fri, 18 Apr 2008 12:21:05 -0700 (PDT), stryped
wrote:

On Apr 18, 1:48Â*pm, clare at snyder dot ontario dot canada wrote:
On Fri, 18 Apr 2008 10:27:04 -0700 (PDT), stryped




3.) If this trialer weights almost 2000 lbs, will it need brakes?


It will need brakes FOR SURE.
** Posted fromhttp://www.teranews.com**- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -


I think I meant 1000 lbs. I guess it would still need brakes.



General rule of thumb.
If the loaded trailer ways over 2000 lbs OR more than 50% of the empty
towing vehicle weight, you need brakes.
To tow without them is foolhardy under those conditions.

When I towed the 8 foot "Rainbow" tent trailer behind the Vauxhall HC
(Firenza) power was never a problem, the trailer was less than half
the weight of the rather light car (just) and there was many a time I
wished I had brakes on the trailer. Brakes on the car were more than
adequate - I had oversized (extra wide) Radial T/As on and could slide
all 4 with no problem - and did several times trying to stop the
trailer quickly. A car that short has very little directional
stability when the rear wheels come loose with a trailer behind!!!!!!!
** Posted from http://www.teranews.com **
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Default Bolting a trailer and welding?


clare, at, snyder, dot, ontario, dot, canada wrote:

On Fri, 18 Apr 2008 12:21:05 -0700 (PDT), stryped
wrote:

On Apr 18, 1:48Â pm, clare at snyder dot ontario dot canada wrote:
On Fri, 18 Apr 2008 10:27:04 -0700 (PDT), stryped



3.) If this trialer weights almost 2000 lbs, will it need brakes?

It will need brakes FOR SURE.
** Posted fromhttp://www.teranews.com**- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -


I think I meant 1000 lbs. I guess it would still need brakes.


General rule of thumb.
If the loaded trailer ways over 2000 lbs OR more than 50% of the empty
towing vehicle weight, you need brakes.
To tow without them is foolhardy under those conditions.

When I towed the 8 foot "Rainbow" tent trailer behind the Vauxhall HC
(Firenza) power was never a problem, the trailer was less than half
the weight of the rather light car (just) and there was many a time I
wished I had brakes on the trailer. Brakes on the car were more than
adequate - I had oversized (extra wide) Radial T/As on and could slide
all 4 with no problem - and did several times trying to stop the
trailer quickly. A car that short has very little directional
stability when the rear wheels come loose with a trailer behind!!!!!!!
** Posted from http://www.teranews.com **


Trailer brakes are a plus even if the vehicle brakes can handle the
extra load due to the ability to independently activate the trailer
brakes to get control of trailer oscillation. A lot of states also
require brakes on any trailer over 1,000#.
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Default Bolting a trailer and welding?

On Fri, 18 Apr 2008 10:27:04 -0700 (PDT), stryped
wrote:


One thing I found out. That metal is bigger than I thought. It is 4x4
1/4 inch thick.

1.) Will my AC 220 volt buzz box welder or my Hobart MIg 130 amp weld
it?


Buzz box no problem, 130-amp MIG no way.

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Default Bolting a trailer and welding?

On Fri, 18 Apr 2008 21:37:03 -0400, with neither quill nor qualm, Al
Patrick quickly quoth:

Larry Jaques wrote:
On Fri, 18 Apr 2008 19:04:14 +0000 (UTC), with neither quill nor
qualm, (Edward A. Falk) quickly quoth:

In article m7-dnRUzepC4TJXVnZ2dnUVZ_oCvnZ2d@internetofbeaufortco unty,
Al Patrick wrote:

A search for books took me to a 161 url. Shortened it is
http://tinyurl.com/5rhrz2 You'll need BOTH book 1 & 2. I got book 1
some time ago and found it takes you to a certain point and bacically
says you need book 2! ;-)
Awesome; I just ordered them.


I hope you read the reviews on Amazon before doing so. Most were
negative. http://tinyurl.com/6o2lzp


I went to your url and only found one review for each book. The
"reviewer" of book 1 said he was going to buy it and they wanted $8 to
ship it to him. This probably ticked him off and affected his rating
entitled *ripoff shipping*. He rated it a 1 out of 5.

--snipperage--

IIRC, other critiques of those books here were negative, too.
Googleit, Al. G'luck!

Enjoy your books.

--
The only difference between a rut and a grave...is in their dimensions.
-- Ellen Glasglow


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Default Bolting a trailer and welding?


Jim Wilkins wrote:

They changed their name.
http://www.northerntool.com



And opened a new store in Ocala, last week.


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http://improve-usenet.org/index.html


Use any search engine other than Google till they stop polluting USENET
with porn and junk commercial SPAM

If you have broadband, your ISP may have a NNTP news server included in
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