Hello all,

I am building a frame/box onto a metal cart - long story. The chase is
that it needs to be water resistant, and there will be a couple of butt
joints that would benefit from a gasket of some type. Whatever I use
needs to be non-porous.

RTV sealant strikes me as a reasonable choice (perhaps I'm having too
much fun tinkering my truckg). Any concerns about using it on Enco's
extruded Al tubing? Some quick searches suggest avoiding acetic acid.
Any other concerns?

Any better ideas? Again, porous materials will be a problem.

Thanks,

Bill

On Jan 30, 12:08 pm, Bill Schwab wrote:
Hello all,

I am building a frame/box onto a metal cart - long story. The chase is
that it needs to be water resistant, and there will be a couple of butt
joints that would benefit from a gasket of some type. Whatever I use
needs to be non-porous.

RTV sealant strikes me as a reasonable choice (perhaps I'm having too
much fun tinkering my truckg). Any concerns about using it on Enco's
extruded Al tubing? Some quick searches suggest avoiding acetic acid.
Any other concerns?

Any better ideas? Again, porous materials will be a problem.

Thanks,

Bill

If you want to use RTV, but don't want acetic acid, find some
electronic assembly grade RTV.

Paul

Bill Schwab writes:

Any better ideas?

3M 5200 marine polyurethane. Stands up to constant immersion. Very
strongly adhesive.

On Wed, 30 Jan 2008 15:08:22 -0500, with neither quill nor qualm, Bill
Schwab quickly quoth:

Hello all,

I am building a frame/box onto a metal cart - long story. The chase is
that it needs to be water resistant, and there will be a couple of butt
joints that would benefit from a gasket of some type. Whatever I use
needs to be non-porous.

Why can't you weld, braze, or solder them, Bill?


RTV sealant strikes me as a reasonable choice (perhaps I'm having too
much fun tinkering my truckg). Any concerns about using it on Enco's
extruded Al tubing? Some quick searches suggest avoiding acetic acid.
Any other concerns?

I don't think Plumber's GOOP exuded acetic acid. Smells more like
toluene IIRC.


Any better ideas? Again, porous materials will be a problem.

Yes, next time: state the materials you're planning on using, the
size, the actual usage, the weight it will support, etc.

--
My future starts when I wake up every morning...
Every day I find something creative to do with my life.
-- Miles Davis

Larry Jaques wrote:
On Wed, 30 Jan 2008 15:08:22 -0500, with neither quill nor qualm, Bill
Schwab quickly quoth:

Hello all,

I am building a frame/box onto a metal cart - long story. The chase is
that it needs to be water resistant, and there will be a couple of butt
joints that would benefit from a gasket of some type. Whatever I use
needs to be non-porous.

Why can't you weld, braze, or solder them, Bill?

MIG welding is not something I do. Even if it were, any such method
seems (no offense intended) very clumsy for something that needs to be
adjusted to fit the existing cart.



Any better ideas? Again, porous materials will be a problem.

Yes, next time: state the materials you're planning on using, the
size, the actual usage, the weight it will support, etc.

2" square tubing; weight is not really a consideration, as the intent is
to make a "radar bubble" to accommodate some items that do not quite fit
on a shelf on a mobile cart.

Bill

Richard J Kinch wrote:
Bill Schwab writes:

Any better ideas?

3M 5200 marine polyurethane. Stands up to constant immersion. Very
strongly adhesive.

Interesting. It might be too much of a good thing, but I will consider it.

Thanks!

Bill

On Wed, 30 Jan 2008 19:05:17 -0500, Bill Schwab
wrote:

Larry Jaques wrote:
On Wed, 30 Jan 2008 15:08:22 -0500, with neither quill nor qualm, Bill
Schwab quickly quoth:

Hello all,

I am building a frame/box onto a metal cart - long story. The chase is
that it needs to be water resistant, and there will be a couple of butt
joints that would benefit from a gasket of some type. Whatever I use
needs to be non-porous.

Why can't you weld, braze, or solder them, Bill?

MIG welding is not something I do. Even if it were, any such method
seems (no offense intended) very clumsy for something that needs to be
adjusted to fit the existing cart.



Any better ideas? Again, porous materials will be a problem.

Yes, next time: state the materials you're planning on using, the
size, the actual usage, the weight it will support, etc.

2" square tubing; weight is not really a consideration, as the intent is
to make a "radar bubble" to accommodate some items that do not quite fit
on a shelf on a mobile cart.

Bill
ProSeal. Used to seal rivetted gas tanks on aircraft. Probably
overkill, but it will work!!!!

--
Posted via a free Usenet account from http://www.teranews.com

On Wed, 30 Jan 2008 19:05:17 -0500, with neither quill nor qualm, Bill
Schwab quickly quoth:

Larry Jaques wrote:
On Wed, 30 Jan 2008 15:08:22 -0500, with neither quill nor qualm, Bill
Schwab quickly quoth:

Hello all,

I am building a frame/box onto a metal cart - long story. The chase is
that it needs to be water resistant, and there will be a couple of butt
joints that would benefit from a gasket of some type. Whatever I use
needs to be non-porous.

Why can't you weld, braze, or solder them, Bill?

MIG welding is not something I do. Even if it were, any such method
seems (no offense intended) very clumsy for something that needs to be
adjusted to fit the existing cart.

I feel the same way about adhesives, so we're even there. g
Besides, I'd TIG or solder it if it were sheetmetal.

Also, if you're building it to fit one existing cart, why should it
have to be adjustable? Just measure it and build it, eh?


Any better ideas? Again, porous materials will be a problem.

Yes, next time: state the materials you're planning on using, the
size, the actual usage, the weight it will support, etc.

2" square tubing; weight is not really a consideration, as the intent is
to make a "radar bubble" to accommodate some items that do not quite fit
on a shelf on a mobile cart.

Ah, "mobile cart" size based on a 2" square tube frame. Gotcha. Little
red wagon size, ATV size, car size, truck size, semi size, or NASA
size mobile cart?

Never mind. I'll just jump off here.

--
My future starts when I wake up every morning...
Every day I find something creative to do with my life.
-- Miles Davis

Bill Schwab wrote:

Richard J Kinch wrote:

Bill Schwab writes:

Any better ideas?


3M 5200 marine polyurethane. Stands up to constant immersion. Very
strongly adhesive.


Interesting. It might be too much of a good thing, but I will consider it.

*dont* consider it for any joint you might want to dissasemble
non-destructively. If you get any on your skin, you'll have its stains
with you far about a month. You can also forget about getting it off
any soft or poreous surface that its got onto. Its also got a *very*
short shelf life once opened. 3M 4200 is somewhat less drastic and
Sikaflex do a range of marine sealants, one or more of which should suit
your purpose.

IIRC your cart is all or part Alumuinium and you are concerned about
corrosion. You may wish to google "poultice corrosion". In any wet
(non-potable water) application if I have Aluminium faying surfaces
without a specific gasket, I use Duralac (an inhibiting Barium
Bichromate goop), ESPECIALLY IF DISSIMILAR METALS ARE INVOLVED.


--
Ian Malcolm. London, ENGLAND. (NEWSGROUP REPLY PREFERRED)
ianm[at]the[dash]malcolms[dot]freeserve[dot]co[dot]uk
[at]=@, [dash]=- & [dot]=. *Warning* HTML & 32K emails -- NUL:
'Stingo' Albacore #1554 - 15' Early 60's, Uffa Fox designed,
All varnished hot moulded wooden racing dinghy.

Ian Malcolm writes:

If you get any on your skin, you'll have its stains
with you far about a month.

Huh. I never have any trouble cleaning up with naphtha.

Richard J Kinch wrote:

Ian Malcolm writes:


If you get any on your skin, you'll have its stains
with you far about a month.


Huh. I never have any trouble cleaning up with naphtha.
Try working with it in a boatyard with a 1/3 mile walk to the washroom.
The job was a real ***tard one rebedding something or other that was
awkward to reassemble upsidedown, deep in a locker. By the time I got
it done the stray 5200 was allready starting to set. I got as much off
as I could before ging to wash up but was scarcely presentable for our
fitting out supper the next week.

--
Ian Malcolm. London, ENGLAND. (NEWSGROUP REPLY PREFERRED)
ianm[at]the[dash]malcolms[dot]freeserve[dot]co[dot]uk
[at]=@, [dash]=- & [dot]=. *Warning* HTML & 32K emails -- NUL:
'Stingo' Albacore #1554 - 15' Early 60's, Uffa Fox designed,
All varnished hot moulded wooden racing dinghy.

Ian Malcolm writes:

By the time I got it done the stray 5200 was allready starting to set.

Hard to understand that, given it takes 5 to 7 DAYS to cure.

Richard J Kinch wrote:
Ian Malcolm writes:


By the time I got it done the stray 5200 was allready starting to set.


Hard to understand that, given it takes 5 to 7 DAYS to cure.

To cure through yes, but it seemed to skin enough to be annoying and as
I said, what was on my hands didn't clean up very well. I should
probably explain that although I'd started this vile job in the
afternoon, it was well into the evening by the time I cleaned myself up.
I didn't have any cleanup problems with where I'd gotten it on the
hull which would probably be about 2 to 3 hours after I started applying
it and all the tools cleaned up reasonably well, and I remember we'd
had to schedule this at least a week before we launched which was almost
certainly due to the setting time you quote. Its also possible that
there were traces of something else on my hands accelerating the 5200's
cure as I'd been working with a variety of nasty substances.
My skin were almost certainly dry and very rough inspite of the barrier
cream from all the work I'd been doing.

I doubt I'm confusing it with another product because where we were, The
skipper had had to import the 3M product specially. Neither it nor any
of the Sikaflex range could be found locally, (I suspect due to
overwhelming faith on silicone sealant usually applied as a poltice
round a failing joint and faith in Allah) and what with the language
problem we couldn't find anyone who'd get some in for us.

--
Ian Malcolm. London, ENGLAND. (NEWSGROUP REPLY PREFERRED)
ianm[at]the[dash]malcolms[dot]freeserve[dot]co[dot]uk
[at]=@, [dash]=- & [dot]=. *Warning* HTML & 32K emails -- NUL:
'Stingo' Albacore #1554 - 15' Early 60's, Uffa Fox designed,
All varnished hot moulded wooden racing dinghy.

On Fri, 01 Feb 2008 00:49:21 +0000, Ian Malcolm
wrote:

Richard J Kinch wrote:
Ian Malcolm writes:


By the time I got it done the stray 5200 was allready starting to set.


Hard to understand that, given it takes 5 to 7 DAYS to cure.

To cure through yes, but it seemed to skin enough to be annoying and as
I said, what was on my hands didn't clean up very well. I should
probably explain that although I'd started this vile job in the
afternoon, it was well into the evening by the time I cleaned myself up.
I didn't have any cleanup problems with where I'd gotten it on the
hull which would probably be about 2 to 3 hours after I started applying
it and all the tools cleaned up reasonably well, and I remember we'd
had to schedule this at least a week before we launched which was almost
certainly due to the setting time you quote. Its also possible that
there were traces of something else on my hands accelerating the 5200's
cure as I'd been working with a variety of nasty substances.
My skin were almost certainly dry and very rough inspite of the barrier
cream from all the work I'd been doing.

I doubt I'm confusing it with another product because where we were, The
skipper had had to import the 3M product specially. Neither it nor any
of the Sikaflex range could be found locally, (I suspect due to
overwhelming faith on silicone sealant usually applied as a poltice
round a failing joint and faith in Allah) and what with the language
problem we couldn't find anyone who'd get some in for us.


Next time get a bottle of Mineral Spirits. Cheap and dissolve 5200 (as
long as it is not set) and doesn't evaporate quickly. Keep a wiping
rag wetted with the stuff to wipe your hands, ears, etc., while
working. Also works well to clean up extra sealant that squirts out of
the joint when tightening fasteners.

If you don;t get your hands clean before the sealant sets up, well,
sandpaper will easily remove it :-(


Bruce-in-Bangkok
(Note:remove underscores
from address for reply)

Ian Malcolm writes:

I should
probably explain that although I'd started this vile job in the
afternoon, it was well into the evening by the time I cleaned myself up.

I do agree, it is a wonderfully messy item to keep where it belongs,
requiring meticuluous technique. My rule is 1 roll of paper towels per
hour of working with it. Lots of popsicle sticks from the craft store.
You touch it once with a spreader or a wiper, and then you toss that
spreader or wiper. But what performance, bedding stainless fittings onto a
boat hull!

On Thu, 31 Jan 2008 21:46:49 -0600, Richard J Kinch
wrote:

Ian Malcolm writes:

I should
probably explain that although I'd started this vile job in the
afternoon, it was well into the evening by the time I cleaned myself up.

I do agree, it is a wonderfully messy item to keep where it belongs,
requiring meticuluous technique. My rule is 1 roll of paper towels per
hour of working with it. Lots of popsicle sticks from the craft store.
You touch it once with a spreader or a wiper, and then you toss that
spreader or wiper. But what performance, bedding stainless fittings onto a
boat hull!


About as good as you can get.

Bruce-in-Bangkok
(Note:remove underscores
from address for reply)

Keeping water out or some other liquid in?

The correct type of sealant will depend on what you want to contain.

DO NOT use RTV for fuel.

Mark ( i dont have to tell you how I know, do i?)


"Larry Jaques" wrote in message
...
On Wed, 30 Jan 2008 15:08:22 -0500, with neither quill nor qualm, Bill
Schwab quickly quoth:

Hello all,

I am building a frame/box onto a metal cart - long story. The chase is
that it needs to be water resistant, and there will be a couple of butt
joints that would benefit from a gasket of some type. Whatever I use
needs to be non-porous.

Why can't you weld, braze, or solder them, Bill?


RTV sealant strikes me as a reasonable choice (perhaps I'm having too
much fun tinkering my truckg). Any concerns about using it on Enco's
extruded Al tubing? Some quick searches suggest avoiding acetic acid.
Any other concerns?

I don't think Plumber's GOOP exuded acetic acid. Smells more like
toluene IIRC.


Any better ideas? Again, porous materials will be a problem.

Yes, next time: state the materials you're planning on using, the
size, the actual usage, the weight it will support, etc.

--
My future starts when I wake up every morning...
Every day I find something creative to do with my life.
-- Miles Davis