Was looking through a PDF of Advanced Machining Handbook from the
30s, look in a retro way. It had an illustration of a toolpost grinder.
Now it makes sense.

But other than 1,000 and up, who has a serviceable model for less (less,
less) than that?

Louis Ohland wrote:
Was looking through a PDF of Advanced Machining Handbook from the 30s,
look in a retro way. It had an illustration of a toolpost grinder. Now
it makes sense.

But other than 1,000 and up, who has a serviceable model for less (less,
less) than that?

I made an adapter to mount my dremel type tool on the toolpost .
Light duty only , but it works rather well . I had to add a .015 shim
(cut from the bottom of a pie tin ...)around the front bearing of my
dremel tool to tighten things up , but that's all .
Used it to clean up and size a couple of transmission roller bearing
races just the other day . Very likely will be using it soon to do a
finish grind on a couple of laps for the motor ...
--
Snag

I have a little aluminum cased 5" bench grinder that I have been
eyeballing for conversion to a tool post grinder. A hold down plate and
3 bolts to mount it and away you go.

Louis Ohland wrote:
Was looking through a PDF of Advanced Machining Handbook from the 30s,
look in a retro way. It had an illustration of a toolpost grinder. Now
it makes sense.

But other than 1,000 and up, who has a serviceable model for less (less,
less) than that?

Louis Ohland wrote:
* Was looking through a PDF of Advanced Machining Handbook from the 30s,
look in a retro way. It had an illustration of a toolpost grinder. Now
it makes sense.
But other than 1,000 and up, who has a serviceable model for less (less,
less) than that

I've used a Dremel for grinding small circular cutters on a lathe with
decent results. The mount is a rectangular aluminum block set upright
with a tongue that fits the toolpost slot and a center-height hole the
diameter of the neck of the Dremel. I think a RotoZip or equivalent
might work, haven't tried it because I found a Dumore #14 cheap. The
problem with a toolpost grinder is keeping *all* grit off the very
exposed lathe ways, dovetails and lead screw.

Jim Wilkins

Louis,
There are home built rigs and then there is the real deal. Huge difference
in performance. You will never achieve a correct finish using a converted
grinder, because the balance and the shaft bearings are not up to the task.
That is why they cost what they do, even used. Remember to cover the ways
and carraige with rags before grinding. The swarf is very damaging. Also
..003" is a big cut and use a very slow spindle speed.
Steve

"Louis Ohland" wrote in message
...
Was looking through a PDF of Advanced Machining Handbook from the 30s,
look in a retro way. It had an illustration of a toolpost grinder. Now it
makes sense.

But other than 1,000 and up, who has a serviceable model for less (less,
less) than that?

Jim Wilkins wrote:

The
problem with a toolpost grinder is keeping *all* grit off the very
exposed lathe ways, dovetails and lead screw.

I saw a thread somewhere where aluminum foil was pressed into use to create
over lapping way covers.

Wes

Louis Ohland wrote:

But other than 1,000 and up, who has a serviceable model for less (less,
less) than that?

Build yer own! Buy the "Quorn" book and only make the spindle part.


Nick
--
The lowcost-DRO:
http://www.yadro.de

On Jan 26, 2:47 am, Nick Mueller wrote:
Louis Ohland wrote:
But other than 1,000 and up, who has a serviceable model for less (less,
less) than that?

Build yer own! Buy the "Quorn" book and only make the spindle part.

Nick
--
The lowcost-DRO:
http://www.yadro.de

I recall seeing a Popular Mechanics article in the 50's showing the
making of a tool post grinder, it used 2 inch threaded pipe and a
surplus universal motor. I know I clipped this from the magazine. If
I find it I'll post the date. I could scan it and send to you as well
if your interested.
ignator

On Sat, 26 Jan 2008 02:24:37 -0500, with neither quill nor qualm, Wes
quickly quoth:

Jim Wilkins wrote:

The
problem with a toolpost grinder is keeping *all* grit off the very
exposed lathe ways, dovetails and lead screw.

I saw a thread somewhere where aluminum foil was pressed into use to create
over lapping way covers.

That'd work, and most of us have a box of it lying around already.
Y'know, for making our beanies.

--
Bite off more than you can chew, then chew it.
Plan more than you can do, then do it.
-- Anonymous

On Jan 26, 1:46*am, "Steve Lusardi" wrote:
Louis,
There are home built rigs and then there is the real deal. Huge difference
in performance. You will never achieve a correct finish using a converted
grinder, because the balance and the shaft bearings are not up to the task.....
Steve

Very true, however you can also get a good surface finish by lapping
and polishing. Homemade tool post grinders let you to shape hardened
steel and sharpen tools.

Jim Wilkins

Larry Jaques wrote:

I saw a thread somewhere where aluminum foil was pressed into use to create
over lapping way covers.

That'd work, and most of us have a box of it lying around already.
Y'know, for making our beanies.


I've gone to lead foil for that. Keeps the mind rays out better and when it
gets tears in it I can melt it down for bullets.

Wes

Nick Mueller wrote:

Build yer own! Buy the "Quorn" book and only make the spindle part.

An excellent suggestion!

Wes

On Fri, 25 Jan 2008 17:49:03 -0600, Louis Ohland
wrote:

Was looking through a PDF of Advanced Machining Handbook from the
30s, look in a retro way. It had an illustration of a toolpost grinder.
Now it makes sense.

But other than 1,000 and up, who has a serviceable model for less (less,
less) than that?
==================
for a cheapscrew solution click on
http://www.krfcompany.com/grinder.html

works with electric or air die grinders.

You can make your own from angle iron if you have welding
capability.

FWIW -- their quick change tooling system works well for the
home/hobby shop and the plans are worth the money.

On Jan 26, 9:25*am, Wes wrote:
Larry Jaques wrote:
..Y'know, for making our beanies.
I've gone to lead foil for that. *Keeps the mind rays out better ...
Wes

It only absorbs the E field, the H field still gets through. Mu metal
is best but I've found ferritic stainless adequate.

On Sat, 26 Jan 2008 09:25:55 -0500, with neither quill nor qualm, Wes
quickly quoth:

Larry Jaques wrote:

I saw a thread somewhere where aluminum foil was pressed into use to create
over lapping way covers.

That'd work, and most of us have a box of it lying around already.
Y'know, for making our beanies.


I've gone to lead foil for that. Keeps the mind rays out better and when it
gets tears in it I can melt it down for bullets.

Tears in it? How can it possibly get...Oh my heavens! You're not
_removing_ it once it's in place, are you, Wes? Oh, dear...

--
Bite off more than you can chew, then chew it.
Plan more than you can do, then do it.
-- Anonymous

I thought the Reynolds Wrap with the coated side was more effective at
deflecting the mind control waves than standard aluminum foil. How does
the coated aluminum foil stack up against lead foil?

Larry Jaques wrote:
On Sat, 26 Jan 2008 09:25:55 -0500, with neither quill nor qualm, Wes
quickly quoth:

Larry Jaques wrote:

I saw a thread somewhere where aluminum foil was pressed into use to create
over lapping way covers.
That'd work, and most of us have a box of it lying around already.
Y'know, for making our beanies.

I've gone to lead foil for that. Keeps the mind rays out better and when it
gets tears in it I can melt it down for bullets.

Tears in it? How can it possibly get...Oh my heavens! You're not
_removing_ it once it's in place, are you, Wes? Oh, dear...

--
Bite off more than you can chew, then chew it.
Plan more than you can do, then do it.
-- Anonymous

On Jan 25, 4:49*pm, Louis Ohland wrote:
* *Was looking through a PDF of Advanced Machining Handbook from the
30s, look in a retro way. It had an illustration of a toolpost grinder.
Now it makes sense.

But other than 1,000 and up, who has a serviceable model for less (less,
less) than that?

http://www.littlemachineshop.com/pro...275&category=1
http://www.littlemachineshop.com/pro...001&category=1

Don't know where else you'd go for grinding wheels with a 20mm hole,
though.

Stan

Would a 20mm hole be 3/4 inch?

wrote:
On Jan 25, 4:49 pm, Louis Ohland wrote:
Was looking through a PDF of Advanced Machining Handbook from the
30s, look in a retro way. It had an illustration of a toolpost grinder.
Now it makes sense.

But other than 1,000 and up, who has a serviceable model for less (less,
less) than that?

http://www.littlemachineshop.com/pro...275&category=1
http://www.littlemachineshop.com/pro...001&category=1

Don't know where else you'd go for grinding wheels with a 20mm hole,
though.

Stan

On Jan 26, 8:55 pm, Louis Ohland wrote:
Would a 20mm hole be 3/4 inch?

wrote:
On Jan 25, 4:49 pm, Louis Ohland wrote:
Was looking through a PDF of Advanced Machining Handbook from the
30s, look in a retro way. It had an illustration of a toolpost grinder.
Now it makes sense.

But other than 1,000 and up, who has a serviceable model for less (less,
less) than that?

http://www.littlemachineshop.com/pro...php?ProductID=...
http://www.littlemachineshop.com/pro...php?ProductID=...

Don't know where else you'd go for grinding wheels with a 20mm hole,
though.

Stan

13/16 would be the closest

I have a simple sleeve adapter that fits over a HF pencil grinder, to
fit into a 200 series boring bar holder. I replaced the twin bearings
with grade 5 from Mcmaster, now has ~.0005" spindle slop. I don't
consider it a precision tool, but it will remove hard materials. One
of the first jobs was cutting snap ring grooves in hardened pins. A
Dremel cut off wheel did the job well. Small machining of glass and
ceramics is also availabble. One neat option is to buy a long 1/16"
carbide end mill, (electronics stuff), spin it at 60,000 rpm, and then
use it as a boring bar.
Dave




On Jan 25, 3:49 pm, Louis Ohland wrote:
Was looking through a PDF of Advanced Machining Handbook from the
30s, look in a retro way. It had an illustration of a toolpost grinder.
Now it makes sense.

But other than 1,000 and up, who has a serviceable model for less (less,
less) than that?

Brent wrote:
On Jan 26, 8:55 pm, Louis Ohland wrote:
Would a 20mm hole be 3/4 inch?

13/16 would be the closest

ClosER. Closer still would be 25/32. 101/128 closer yet. You get the
point.

Bob

sk wrote:

I recall seeing a Popular Mechanics article in the 50's showing the
making of Â*a tool post grinder, it used 2 inch threaded pipe and a
surplus universal motor.

Oh yes, that sounds like a precision job! :-)

Model Engineer has a plan for a toolpost grinder. The article starts July
1968 (#3348). If you can get your hands on those issues. *)
But still I think the Quorn is a good spindle with its preloaded ball
bearings.

If you want a perfect surface, it won't be a piece of cake. A converted
benchtop-grinder won't help you much.


*)
Bought three packs of them 2 weeks ago for 15.- EUR


Nick
--
The lowcost-DRO:
http://www.yadro.de