I have one of those Horrible Freight 1/2 vertical size drill presses. 3
step pulley wheels to set the speeds, etc..

I need to drill 4 holes in some 3/4" mystery-metal plate. I'm looking to
drill 3/4" holes to be able to pass 5/8" bolts with a little bit of margin
for error. This is going to be the base of my power hammer. Below this
plate will be rubber matting and some wood as a buffer between it and the
concrete floor. The plate itself weighs about 260#s. I figured I could
use my engine hoist to hold one end of the plate and clamp the other end
on the drill press for drilling. I'm not sure I can gear it down enough
though for that large of a bit. Does this seem like a good plan?

I also have an Index vertical 40 mill, but no real clamping set for it,
just a mill vise.

The other question I had was that I needed to drill and tap 4 1/2-13 holes
on one end of a 32" long 6 1/2" bar of, you guessed it, mystery metal.
I'm wondering if renting a magnetic drill press would be a good idea for
this. The dimensions are going to be a lot tighter as this will be where
the power hammer dies are bolted down.

Todd

3/4" hole... Bench top or small drill press? Doable... Not fun.

3/4" should probably be run at around 300-350 RPM if you don't know what the
material is presuming it is steel-like. Use coolant of some sort. Worst
case, brush some engine oil on the tip of the drill bit prior to and during
the process. If it smokes then stops, HALT and add more.

Tap the holes by hand... Drill them in the same basic way if you can.

Good luck doing it with that small drill press. I presume you will be using
a standard 3/4" drill and not something with a smaller starter (step drill)
or so? You may have a hard time starting on a precision location...

Regards,
Joe Agro, Jr.
(800) 871-5022
01.908.542.0244
Automatic / Pneumatic Drills: http://www.AutoDrill.com
Multiple Spindle Drills: http://www.Multi-Drill.com

V8013-R


"Todd Rich" wrote in message
...
I have one of those Horrible Freight 1/2 vertical size drill presses. 3
step pulley wheels to set the speeds, etc..

I need to drill 4 holes in some 3/4" mystery-metal plate. I'm looking to
drill 3/4" holes to be able to pass 5/8" bolts with a little bit of margin
for error. This is going to be the base of my power hammer. Below this
plate will be rubber matting and some wood as a buffer between it and the
concrete floor. The plate itself weighs about 260#s. I figured I could
use my engine hoist to hold one end of the plate and clamp the other end
on the drill press for drilling. I'm not sure I can gear it down enough
though for that large of a bit. Does this seem like a good plan?

I also have an Index vertical 40 mill, but no real clamping set for it,
just a mill vise.

The other question I had was that I needed to drill and tap 4 1/2-13 holes
on one end of a 32" long 6 1/2" bar of, you guessed it, mystery metal.
I'm wondering if renting a magnetic drill press would be a good idea for
this. The dimensions are going to be a lot tighter as this will be where
the power hammer dies are bolted down.

Todd

Joe AutoDrill wrote:
3/4" hole... Bench top or small drill press? Doable... Not fun.

It uses the same head as their full size model, just has a shorter pole
holding it up.

3/4" should probably be run at around 300-350 RPM if you don't know what the
material is presuming it is steel-like. Use coolant of some sort. Worst
case, brush some engine oil on the tip of the drill bit prior to and during
the process. If it smokes then stops, HALT and add more.

Steel like, not cast. It has been torch cut and behaved like steel. I
don't really have a coolant setup but I was going to be brushing on tap
magic.

Tap the holes by hand... Drill them in the same basic way if you can.

I have a nice big tap wrench. I was a bit worried about drilling for
them, because the bar is longer than the distance between the base and
the head of the drill press. I'd have to mount the press on something to
give it enough height, and turn the head, and I'm not sure I'll get good
perpendicular holes.

Good luck doing it with that small drill press. I presume you will be using
a standard 3/4" drill and not something with a smaller starter (step drill)
or so? You may have a hard time starting on a precision location...

I haven't bought the drill bit yet. I could get a step drill to start it,
or or drill a pilot hole first.

Regards,
Joe Agro, Jr.
(800) 871-5022
01.908.542.0244
Automatic / Pneumatic Drills: http://www.AutoDrill.com
Multiple Spindle Drills: http://www.Multi-Drill.com

Thanks!

This is the model of press I have:
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=38142

Todd

3/4" hole... Bench top or small drill press? Doable... Not fun.

It uses the same head as their full size model, just has a shorter pole
holding it up.

Ultimately, it would be nice to see a machine with 1.5 to 2 HP perform this
job... But a smaller machine should do it just fine with a light cut. I'm
guessing yours is 0.5 to 1 HP... Hopefully not smaller.

3/4" should probably be run at around 300-350 RPM if you don't know what
the
material is presuming it is steel-like. Use coolant of some sort. Worst
case, brush some engine oil on the tip of the drill bit prior to and
during
the process. If it smokes then stops, HALT and add more.

Steel like, not cast. It has been torch cut and behaved like steel. I
don't really have a coolant setup but I was going to be brushing on tap
magic.

Okay... So it's not stainless then I presume. Tap magic should help quite
a bit, but like I said, even a simple (cheap) oil will work just fine as it
doesn't sound like you need a high precision hole or expensive coolant for
high RPM or whatever other reasons.

Tap the holes by hand... Drill them in the same basic way if you can.

I have a nice big tap wrench. I was a bit worried about drilling for
them, because the bar is longer than the distance between the base and
the head of the drill press. I'd have to mount the press on something to
give it enough height, and turn the head, and I'm not sure I'll get good
perpendicular holes.

Could be an issue. any shops near you have a Bridgeport by any chance? you
could "borrow" it's capabilities and solve some problems... If the piece
fits there.

Good luck doing it with that small drill press. I presume you will be
using
a standard 3/4" drill and not something with a smaller starter (step
drill)
or so? You may have a hard time starting on a precision location...

I haven't bought the drill bit yet. I could get a step drill to start it,
or or drill a pilot hole first.

Pilot hole should be fine.

You should be able to accomplish this without much of a problem. Even if
your pre-tapped holes are slightly off, it probably won't make a tremendous
difference unless you need the final fastener to be extremely accurately
located.
--


Regards,
Joe Agro, Jr.
(800) 871-5022
01.908.542.0244
Automatic / Pneumatic Drills: http://www.AutoDrill.com
Multiple Spindle Drills: http://www.Multi-Drill.com

V8013-R

Joe AutoDrill wrote:
It uses the same head as their full size model, just has a shorter pole
holding it up.

Ultimately, it would be nice to see a machine with 1.5 to 2 HP perform this
job... But a smaller machine should do it just fine with a light cut. I'm
guessing yours is 0.5 to 1 HP... Hopefully not smaller.

It claims .75 HP, but with 8 amps, I say it is really .5 HP.

(snip)
Okay... So it's not stainless then I presume. Tap magic should help quite
a bit, but like I said, even a simple (cheap) oil will work just fine as it
doesn't sound like you need a high precision hole or expensive coolant for
high RPM or whatever other reasons.

Nope, not stainless, nice and rusty. (I'll be brushing the rust off as I'm
going to be welding on it after the holes are drilled.) I've got some
light oil that I can use.

(snip)
the head of the drill press. I'd have to mount the press on something to
give it enough height, and turn the head, and I'm not sure I'll get good
perpendicular holes.

Could be an issue. any shops near you have a Bridgeport by any chance? you
could "borrow" it's capabilities and solve some problems... If the piece
fits there.

Actually, I work at a machine shop and I'm friends with the night shift
tool-room guy. He is willing to do the occasional bit of machining for
me, but I try not to ask unless it is beyond the capacity of what I have.

(snip)
Pilot hole should be fine.

You should be able to accomplish this without much of a problem. Even if
your pre-tapped holes are slightly off, it probably won't make a tremendous
difference unless you need the final fastener to be extremely accurately
located.

Nope. Given the level of vibrations this machine will be producing, I
want to give it a little bit of horizontal shimmy spacing.

Thanks again!
Todd

On Jan 4, 9:24*am, Todd Rich wrote:
I have one of those Horrible Freight 1/2 vertical size drill presses. *3
step pulley wheels to set the speeds, etc..

I need to drill 4 holes in some 3/4" mystery-metal plate. *I'm looking to
drill 3/4" holes to be able to pass 5/8" bolts with a little bit of margin
for error. *This is going to be the base of my power hammer. *Below this
plate will be rubber matting and some wood as a buffer between it and the
concrete floor. *The plate itself weighs about 260#s. *I figured I could
use my engine hoist to hold one end of the plate and clamp the other end
on the drill press for drilling. *I'm not sure I can gear it down enough
though for that large of a bit. *Does this seem like a good plan?

* * * * * * * * * * * * Todd *

Drill press sounds pretty light duty for that size hole, but if it's
all you have you may be able to make it work.

Even half the weight of the plate may be too much for the table,
though. Why not put the drill press on top of the plate? Clamp it
there and swing the head into position. Or, maybe there is a hole in
the base you can drill through.

John Martin

Your motor needs to be at least 1HP (2 Sears HP) and about 3-500RPM on
the spindle. If you have one of the wimpy 1/3HP jobs-forget it. It's not
gonna fly. Your clamp scheme needs to be Very rigid- a bit that size
will grab big time- the hoist support idea has no lateral rigidity. If
the hole size is not that critical, a better scheme might be to flame
cut them, and clean up with a die grinder. You really need to determine
what material you are working with. Especially for the tap job. Mebbe
someone can post a link to a spark analysis page that shows how to
determine flavor by grinding a spot and evaluating the spark color and
branching. You don't really want to be knocking yourself out drilling
and tapping some armor plate.
JR
Dweller in the cellar


Todd Rich wrote:
I have one of those Horrible Freight 1/2 vertical size drill presses. 3
step pulley wheels to set the speeds, etc..

I need to drill 4 holes in some 3/4" mystery-metal plate. I'm looking to
drill 3/4" holes to be able to pass 5/8" bolts with a little bit of margin
for error. This is going to be the base of my power hammer. Below this
plate will be rubber matting and some wood as a buffer between it and the
concrete floor. The plate itself weighs about 260#s. I figured I could
use my engine hoist to hold one end of the plate and clamp the other end
on the drill press for drilling. I'm not sure I can gear it down enough
though for that large of a bit. Does this seem like a good plan?

I also have an Index vertical 40 mill, but no real clamping set for it,
just a mill vise.

The other question I had was that I needed to drill and tap 4 1/2-13 holes
on one end of a 32" long 6 1/2" bar of, you guessed it, mystery metal.
I'm wondering if renting a magnetic drill press would be a good idea for
this. The dimensions are going to be a lot tighter as this will be where
the power hammer dies are bolted down.

Todd

--
--------------------------------------------------------------
Home Page: http://www.seanet.com/~jasonrnorth
If you're not the lead dog, the view never changes
Doubt yourself, and the real world will eat you alive
The world doesn't revolve around you, it revolves around me
No skeletons in the closet; just decomposing corpses
--------------------------------------------------------------
Dependence is Vulnerability:
--------------------------------------------------------------
"Open the Pod Bay Doors please, Hal"
"I'm sorry, Dave, I'm afraid I can't do that.."

Even half the weight of the plate may be too much for the table,
though. Why not put the drill press on top of the plate? Clamp it
there and swing the head into position. Or, maybe there is a hole in
the base you can drill through.

Agreed! Didn't consider this at all...

Half your battle will be fixturing the part up so that you can drill it...
--


Regards,
Joe Agro, Jr.
(800) 871-5022
01.908.542.0244
Automatic / Pneumatic Drills: http://www.AutoDrill.com
Multiple Spindle Drills: http://www.Multi-Drill.com

V8013-R

I would visit a local rental place, and rent an appropriate slow RPM
hand drill (with extention handle) or magnetic drill. I think that it
is easier than hoisting up a 260 lbs plate and using that drill press.

i

Can you put the drill press on the floor? If so, all you need to do is
to prop up the 260 pound plate the the height of the base table of the
drill press. Then you can slide it around as needed.
How about using a hole saw for the holes? I am using hole saws as
large as 1/2" diameter at 375 rpm to go through 1 1/2" thick mild steel.
Ought to work for you at the (probably) 500 rpm slowest speed you'll
have. If you do use the hole saw, clear chips REAL frequently!!! And
use lots of oil.
Every 10 years of so, I buy a gallon of "dark pipe threading oil" and
put it in my quart cutting oil can as needed, for everything but
aluminum and real small drill bits. It's the sulphurized kind and came
highly recommended by my machine shop instructor.

For the 1/2 inch holes:
Make the die holder first so you can use its holes as a template to
properly position the holes in the end of the anvil. (Ron Kinyon style
air hammer?)

Clamp the bar to the side of your workbench. Turn the drill press
sideways on the bench and clamp it in place so the head can overhang the
bench and reach the end of the bar. You might even tack weld the die
holder in its proper place temporarily. Or, locate it properly and use
a transfer punch to locate one hole. Drill and tap that hole. Bolt the
die holder in place and transfer punch the other 3. Relocate bar and
drill press head and continue.

The rubber mat is a good idea, but I don't think you need the wood. My
main trip hammer is simply glued to a 1/2" thick piece of rubber belting
which is, in turn, glued to the concrete floor (with silicon sealer).
It has been there since 1986.

Sounds like you have quite a job on your hands. Good luck at it.
Pete Stanaitis
-----------------------


Todd Rich wrote:
I have one of those Horrible Freight 1/2 vertical size drill presses. 3
step pulley wheels to set the speeds, etc..

I need to drill 4 holes in some 3/4" mystery-metal plate. I'm looking to
drill 3/4" holes to be able to pass 5/8" bolts with a little bit of margin
for error. This is going to be the base of my power hammer. Below this
plate will be rubber matting and some wood as a buffer between it and the
concrete floor. The plate itself weighs about 260#s. I figured I could
use my engine hoist to hold one end of the plate and clamp the other end
on the drill press for drilling. I'm not sure I can gear it down enough
though for that large of a bit. Does this seem like a good plan?

I also have an Index vertical 40 mill, but no real clamping set for it,
just a mill vise.

The other question I had was that I needed to drill and tap 4 1/2-13 holes
on one end of a 32" long 6 1/2" bar of, you guessed it, mystery metal.
I'm wondering if renting a magnetic drill press would be a good idea for
this. The dimensions are going to be a lot tighter as this will be where
the power hammer dies are bolted down.

Todd

On Fri, 4 Jan 2008 14:24:36 +0000 (UTC), Todd Rich
wrote:

I have one of those Horrible Freight 1/2 vertical size drill presses. 3
step pulley wheels to set the speeds, etc..

I need to drill 4 holes in some 3/4" mystery-metal plate. I'm looking to
drill 3/4" holes to be able to pass 5/8" bolts with a little bit of margin
for error. This is going to be the base of my power hammer.

Sloppy holes to fasten the plate to the floor? Since you don't have
the appropriate tool to drill the holes, burn them with a torch. A
1/4" hole punched with a hand drill will make it easier to start the
cut.

--
Ned Simmons

John Martin wrote:
(snip)
Drill press sounds pretty light duty for that size hole, but if it's
all you have you may be able to make it work.

Even half the weight of the plate may be too much for the table,
though. Why not put the drill press on top of the plate? Clamp it
there and swing the head into position. Or, maybe there is a hole in
the base you can drill through.

I'm not understanding this question. The head of the drill press is on
top of a fixed shaft. It can't be lowered. The table is adjustable to
bring the work close enough for the 3" travel of the spindle to work. Yes
the head can be swung around, but isn't rigidity lost that way? And what
should I clamp the plate to?

John Martin

This is what I have:
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=38142

The pictures is fairly accurate.

JR North wrote:
Your motor needs to be at least 1HP (2 Sears HP) and about 3-500RPM on
the spindle. If you have one of the wimpy 1/3HP jobs-forget it. It's not
gonna fly. Your clamp scheme needs to be Very rigid- a bit that size
will grab big time- the hoist support idea has no lateral rigidity. If
the hole size is not that critical, a better scheme might be to flame
cut them, and clean up with a die grinder. You really need to determine
what material you are working with. Especially for the tap job. Mebbe
someone can post a link to a spark analysis page that shows how to
determine flavor by grinding a spot and evaluating the spark color and
branching. You don't really want to be knocking yourself out drilling
and tapping some armor plate.
JR
Dweller in the cellar

I'm pretty sure the material I'm tapping isn't that hard. I cut it on the
big saw at work, and it didn't have any problem cutting it. I'll be
grinding a chamfer on one end before drilling it, so I'll have a chance to
confirm that impression.

I understand about the lack of lateral rigidity. I was planning on having
it setup where the 500# anvil I have will help in that regard.

Todd Rich wrote:

John Martin wrote:
(snip)
Drill press sounds pretty light duty for that size hole, but if it's
all you have you may be able to make it work.

Even half the weight of the plate may be too much for the table,
though. Why not put the drill press on top of the plate? Clamp it
there and swing the head into position. Or, maybe there is a hole in
the base you can drill through.

I'm not understanding this question. The head of the drill press is on
top of a fixed shaft. It can't be lowered. The table is adjustable to
bring the work close enough for the 3" travel of the spindle to work. Yes
the head can be swung around, but isn't rigidity lost that way? And what
should I clamp the plate to?

John Martin

This is what I have:
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=38142

The pictures is fairly accurate.

Rent a mag drill for a half day, or let your machine shop buddy do the
job with the proper sized equipment. Trying to do a heavy duty job with
a light duty tool will only waste your time and potentially damage your
tools.

Ignoramus17950 wrote:
I would visit a local rental place, and rent an appropriate slow RPM
hand drill (with extention handle) or magnetic drill. I think that it
is easier than hoisting up a 260 lbs plate and using that drill press.

i

Thanks, I was considering it for the bar, but no reason it couldn't do it
for both.
Todd

spaco wrote:
Can you put the drill press on the floor? If so, all you need to do is
to prop up the 260 pound plate the the height of the base table of the
drill press. Then you can slide it around as needed.

I can prop the plate up, but I don't really have anything that works for
the height of the working range of the press. Btw, the press is already
on the floor.

How about using a hole saw for the holes? I am using hole saws as
large as 1/2" diameter at 375 rpm to go through 1 1/2" thick mild steel.
Ought to work for you at the (probably) 500 rpm slowest speed you'll
have. If you do use the hole saw, clear chips REAL frequently!!! And
use lots of oil.

Slowest speed on the press is 240 rpm. I'll look into a 3/4" hole saw.

Every 10 years of so, I buy a gallon of "dark pipe threading oil" and
put it in my quart cutting oil can as needed, for everything but
aluminum and real small drill bits. It's the sulphurized kind and came
highly recommended by my machine shop instructor.

I can get my hands on dark pipe threading oil.

For the 1/2 inch holes:
Make the die holder first so you can use its holes as a template to
properly position the holes in the end of the anvil. (Ron Kinyon style
air hammer?)

Yep Kinyon style, and I was planning on welding the dies to the holders.

Clamp the bar to the side of your workbench. Turn the drill press
sideways on the bench and clamp it in place so the head can overhang the
bench and reach the end of the bar. You might even tack weld the die
holder in its proper place temporarily. Or, locate it properly and use
a transfer punch to locate one hole. Drill and tap that hole. Bolt the
die holder in place and transfer punch the other 3. Relocate bar and
drill press head and continue.

I don't really have a workbench yet, and the press is actually on the
floor. I was thinking of a variation of what you are talking about here,
but was worried about how well I can get the axis of the spindle aligned
to the axis of the bar. I think I'll talk to the tool room guy here, and
see if he might be willing to do it on the bridgeport.

The rubber mat is a good idea, but I don't think you need the wood. My
main trip hammer is simply glued to a 1/2" thick piece of rubber belting
which is, in turn, glued to the concrete floor (with silicon sealer).
It has been there since 1986.

Good to know. I've seen cork recommended in addition to the rubber
belting, and thought that some 1/4" balsa plywood might work instead.

Sounds like you have quite a job on your hands. Good luck at it.
Pete Stanaitis
-----------------------

Thanks.
Todd

Ned Simmons wrote:
On Fri, 4 Jan 2008 14:24:36 +0000 (UTC), Todd Rich
wrote:

I have one of those Horrible Freight 1/2 vertical size drill presses. 3
step pulley wheels to set the speeds, etc..

I need to drill 4 holes in some 3/4" mystery-metal plate. I'm looking to
drill 3/4" holes to be able to pass 5/8" bolts with a little bit of margin
for error. This is going to be the base of my power hammer.

Sloppy holes to fasten the plate to the floor? Since you don't have
the appropriate tool to drill the holes, burn them with a torch. A
1/4" hole punched with a hand drill will make it easier to start the
cut.

I do have a cutting torch, but I'm not that good with it. I've only used
it for about 1/2 hour over the last 8 years. I can cut, but it is pretty
sloppy.

Pete C. wrote:
(snip)
Rent a mag drill for a half day, or let your machine shop buddy do the
job with the proper sized equipment. Trying to do a heavy duty job with
a light duty tool will only waste your time and potentially damage your
tools.

Looks tempting. I'll be talking to the tool room guy tonight.
Todd

On Jan 4, 1:14*pm, Todd Rich wrote:
John Martin wrote:

(snip)

Drill press sounds pretty light duty for that size hole, but if it's
all you have you may be able to make it work.
Even half the weight of the plate may be too much for the table,
though. *Why not put the drill press on top of the plate? *Clamp it
there and swing the head into position. *Or, maybe there is a hole in
the base you can drill through.

I'm not understanding this question. *The head of the drill press is on
top of a fixed shaft. *It can't be lowered. *The table is adjustable to
bring the work close enough for the 3" travel of the spindle to work. *Yes
the head can be swung around, but isn't rigidity lost that way? *And what
should I clamp the plate to?

John Martin

This is what I have:http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=38142

The pictures is fairly accurate.

Most smaller drill presses allow the head to be raised or lowered. If
yours doesn't, you're out of luck with this method.

If you could do it, swinging the head around should have no effect on
the rigidity of the machine. You don't have to clamp the plate to
anything if the drill press is clamped to the plate.

For only four holes, if you can't find the right machine you can
always drill them by hand with a brace and bit.

John Martin

On Fri, 4 Jan 2008 14:24:36 +0000 (UTC), Todd Rich
wrote:

I have one of those Horrible Freight 1/2 vertical size drill presses. 3
step pulley wheels to set the speeds, etc..

I need to drill 4 holes in some 3/4" mystery-metal plate. I'm looking to
drill 3/4" holes to be able to pass 5/8" bolts with a little bit of margin
for error. This is going to be the base of my power hammer. Below this
plate will be rubber matting and some wood as a buffer between it and the
concrete floor. The plate itself weighs about 260#s. I figured I could
use my engine hoist to hold one end of the plate and clamp the other end
on the drill press for drilling. I'm not sure I can gear it down enough
though for that large of a bit. Does this seem like a good plan?

I also have an Index vertical 40 mill, but no real clamping set for it,
just a mill vise.

The other question I had was that I needed to drill and tap 4 1/2-13 holes
on one end of a 32" long 6 1/2" bar of, you guessed it, mystery metal.
I'm wondering if renting a magnetic drill press would be a good idea for
this. The dimensions are going to be a lot tighter as this will be where
the power hammer dies are bolted down.

Todd
Do yourself a favour and borrow, rent or buy a good heavy duty half
inch drill. Drill a pilot hole first under 1/4" diameter, then enlarge
to 3/8- 7/16, then using a Silver and Demmings 5/6", and finally your
3/4 inch.
Put the second
side handle" on the drill (hunk of water pump threaded into the hole
provided).
That POS HF drill press doesn't stand a chance.

--
Posted via a free Usenet account from http://www.teranews.com

On Fri, 4 Jan 2008 18:34:59 +0000 (UTC), Todd Rich wrote:



Slowest speed on the press is 240 rpm. I'll look into a 3/4" hole saw.


That gives you 24 sfpm. Plenty slow. Don't bother with the hole saw.

Clamp a piece of scrap under the web that you're drilling through. That will
stop the drill grabbing when it exits the hole. If necessary hold the scrap on
with a couple of 10-32, or similar, screws. The scrap should be thick enough
that the drill isn't going to come through it before it's cleanly out of the
metal that's being drilled. Drill a pilot hole the same size as the web on the
3/4" drill. Don't drill the pilot hole noticeably bigger than this. Then drill
away using the tapping oil.

Use reasonable pressure and you'll find that the drill cuts surprisingly
easily. You've removed the major inefficiency (smearing the metal out of the
way with the web) and you've still got enough metal being cut to avoid the
drill grabbing and chattering. If you have too large a pilot hole, the drill
will grab and you'll chip the cutting edge. DAMHIKT

I don't promise that it'll work for you, but it works for me!


Mark Rand
RTFM

On Jan 4, 1:14*pm, Todd Rich wrote:
John Martin wrote:

(snip)

Drill press sounds pretty light duty for that size hole, but if it's
all you have you may be able to make it work.
Even half the weight of the plate may be too much for the table,
though. *Why not put the drill press on top of the plate? *Clamp it
there and swing the head into position. *Or, maybe there is a hole in
the base you can drill through.

I'm not understanding this question. *The head of the drill press is on
top of a fixed shaft. *It can't be lowered. *The table is adjustable to
bring the work close enough for the 3" travel of the spindle to work. *Yes
the head can be swung around, but isn't rigidity lost that way? *And what
should I clamp the plate to?

John Martin

This is what I have:http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=38142

The pictures is fairly accurate.

I modified an even crappier Duracraft drill press to drill holes in
heavy steel by chiseling out the lip that rests on the top of the
column so the head can slide down near the base.
The head needed more & larger clamping screws but it's rigid enough to
drill at least 1/2" holes in WF beams, in 1/8" steps.

I bought a cheap 1/2" shank drill set, Grip #35295, because they are
only 3" long and I was making tall parts on a short milling machine.
They actually hold up fairly well in mild steel.

Jim Wilkins

Todd Rich wrote:

I have one of those Horrible Freight 1/2 vertical size drill presses. 3
step pulley wheels to set the speeds, etc..

I need to drill 4 holes in some 3/4" mystery-metal plate. I'm looking to
drill 3/4" holes to be able to pass 5/8" bolts with a little bit of margin
for error. This is going to be the base of my power hammer. Below this
plate will be rubber matting and some wood as a buffer between it and the
concrete floor. The plate itself weighs about 260#s. I figured I could
use my engine hoist to hold one end of the plate and clamp the other end
on the drill press for drilling. I'm not sure I can gear it down enough
though for that large of a bit. Does this seem like a good plan?

I also have an Index vertical 40 mill, but no real clamping set for it,
just a mill vise.

The other question I had was that I needed to drill and tap 4 1/2-13 holes
on one end of a 32" long 6 1/2" bar of, you guessed it, mystery metal.
I'm wondering if renting a magnetic drill press would be a good idea for
this. The dimensions are going to be a lot tighter as this will be where
the power hammer dies are bolted down.

Todd

Spend the $75 or so at Enco, or whereever, and get a clamping kit.
You'll never regret it. Should definately have one set, and once you
have it, you will find that a second set may be handy too. :-)

I suspect that the cost of renting a mag drill is going to be near or
more, than the cost would be if you were to walk in with the stuff in
hand at a shop with a decent drill press.
I don't know about the rental shops you frequent, but the ones I deal
with do not supply cutting tools either, so there is that cost if you
don't have the bits.

If accuracy is not a primary concern, a hand held drill and a set of
stepped shank drills can do the work. If you have a decent 1/2 inch
chucked drill, anyways.

Cheers
Trevor Jones

"Trevor Jones" wrote in message
news:WzLfj.46889$UZ4.40340@edtnps89...
Todd Rich wrote:

I have one of those Horrible Freight 1/2 vertical size drill presses. 3
step pulley wheels to set the speeds, etc..

I need to drill 4 holes in some 3/4" mystery-metal plate. I'm looking to
drill 3/4" holes to be able to pass 5/8" bolts with a little bit of
margin for error. This is going to be the base of my power hammer.
Below this plate will be rubber matting and some wood as a buffer between
it and the concrete floor. The plate itself weighs about 260#s. I
figured I could use my engine hoist to hold one end of the plate and
clamp the other end on the drill press for drilling. I'm not sure I can
gear it down enough though for that large of a bit. Does this seem like
a good plan?

I also have an Index vertical 40 mill, but no real clamping set for it,
just a mill vise.

The other question I had was that I needed to drill and tap 4 1/2-13
holes on one end of a 32" long 6 1/2" bar of, you guessed it, mystery
metal. I'm wondering if renting a magnetic drill press would be a good
idea for this. The dimensions are going to be a lot tighter as this will
be where the power hammer dies are bolted down.

Todd

Spend the $75 or so at Enco, or whereever, and get a clamping kit.

If you can witch to 1/2-20, and shoot for a 50 % thread things will be much
easier. Jim. Or, weld 1/2-13 nuts in place ??.
You'll never regret it. Should definately have one set, and once you have
it, you will find that a second set may be handy too. :-)

I suspect that the cost of renting a mag drill is going to be near or
more, than the cost would be if you were to walk in with the stuff in hand
at a shop with a decent drill press.
I don't know about the rental shops you frequent, but the ones I deal
with do not supply cutting tools either, so there is that cost if you
don't have the bits.

If accuracy is not a primary concern, a hand held drill and a set of
stepped shank drills can do the work. If you have a decent 1/2 inch
chucked drill, anyways.

Cheers
Trevor Jones