On Tue, 01 Jan 2008 11:22:53 -0600, dpb wrote:

DoN. Nichols wrote:
On 2007-12-30, Oren wrote:
On Sun, 30 Dec 2007 16:18:19 -0500, wrote:


I'm the heat cycle kinda' guy, meself...

I do like the idea of the tack-weld a new nut on -- now if I only had a
MIG or wire-feed unit instead of (or in addition to) the stick...

In this case stick is better than MIG. I do this a LOT (I'm the one
that everybody brings jobs like this to) and MIG is only good if the
bolt is already free. If the bolt isn't free then MIG makes to hard a
deposit and the weld breaks before you can get any pressure. The best
results are obtained with SS stick rod. Take a 3/32" stainless rod and
with several small tacks build up a ball of stainless on top of the
bolt. Then place a flat washer on there and weld it to the ball. Then
take a nut and using a low flux rod (like 6011) weld it to the top of
the above. That will give you the highest strength bond to the bolt
you can get.

Wayne Cook wrote:

On Tue, 01 Jan 2008 11:22:53 -0600, dpb wrote:


DoN. Nichols wrote:

On 2007-12-30, Oren wrote:

On Sun, 30 Dec 2007 16:18:19 -0500, wrote:



I'm the heat cycle kinda' guy, meself...

I do like the idea of the tack-weld a new nut on -- now if I only had a
MIG or wire-feed unit instead of (or in addition to) the stick...


In this case stick is better than MIG. I do this a LOT (I'm the one
that everybody brings jobs like this to) and MIG is only good if the
bolt is already free. If the bolt isn't free then MIG makes to hard a
deposit and the weld breaks before you can get any pressure. The best
results are obtained with SS stick rod. Take a 3/32" stainless rod and
with several small tacks build up a ball of stainless on top of the
bolt. Then place a flat washer on there and weld it to the ball. Then
take a nut and using a low flux rod (like 6011) weld it to the top of
the above. That will give you the highest strength bond to the bolt
you can get.

Yes, Wayne, but I want to see you tacking to a #10 screw broken off
1/16" below the surface of an aluminum workpiece! You can with care
shoot a .024 wire down there, though.

It depends entirely on what you're working on, of course. If you're working
on oil field rigs or battleships, sure, stick would work great.

Grant

--
Posted via a free Usenet account from http://www.teranews.com

On Tue, 01 Jan 2008 14:24:58 -0800, Grant Erwin
wrote:

Wayne Cook wrote:

On Tue, 01 Jan 2008 11:22:53 -0600, dpb wrote:


DoN. Nichols wrote:

On 2007-12-30, Oren wrote:

On Sun, 30 Dec 2007 16:18:19 -0500, wrote:



I'm the heat cycle kinda' guy, meself...

I do like the idea of the tack-weld a new nut on -- now if I only had a
MIG or wire-feed unit instead of (or in addition to) the stick...


In this case stick is better than MIG. I do this a LOT (I'm the one
that everybody brings jobs like this to) and MIG is only good if the
bolt is already free. If the bolt isn't free then MIG makes to hard a
deposit and the weld breaks before you can get any pressure. The best
results are obtained with SS stick rod. Take a 3/32" stainless rod and
with several small tacks build up a ball of stainless on top of the
bolt. Then place a flat washer on there and weld it to the ball. Then
take a nut and using a low flux rod (like 6011) weld it to the top of
the above. That will give you the highest strength bond to the bolt
you can get.

Yes, Wayne, but I want to see you tacking to a #10 screw broken off
1/16" below the surface of an aluminum workpiece! You can with care
shoot a .024 wire down there, though.

It depends entirely on what you're working on, of course. If you're working
on oil field rigs or battleships, sure, stick would work great.

True. I've not actually tried it but I'd bet that stainless wire
would be better in that case.

"Wayne Cook" wrote

It depends entirely on what you're working on, of course. If you're
working
on oil field rigs or battleships, sure, stick would work great.

Two welding rods used on oilfield rigs. 6010 and 7018. Been there, done
that.

Steve