I need to clean some really caked on grease that is on an old engine in a
machine.

I was thinking of taking a tea kettle and shutting the spring-loaded lid,
inserting some 1/4" copper tubing into the lid's hole, setting the thing on
a hot-plate, putting a spring on the tubing where one would hold the tubing
so as to prevent fingers being burned.

Any suggestions would be appreciated.

j/b

jusme wrote:
I need to clean some really caked on grease that is on an old engine in a
machine.

I was thinking of taking a tea kettle and shutting the spring-loaded lid,
inserting some 1/4" copper tubing into the lid's hole, setting the thing on
a hot-plate, putting a spring on the tubing where one would hold the tubing
so as to prevent fingers being burned.

Any suggestions would be appreciated.

If you want to build a steam generator, here's an easy way: take an old
propane bottle and follow the steps on the Web to remove the valve and
prepare it for reuse:

http://tinyisland.com/LPvalveRemoval.html

Then you can put water in it and thread in a 3/4" plug which has been
drilled and fitted with 1/4" tubing. Put the whole thing on an outdoor
burner like the kind that comes with a turkey deepfrying setup, and
heat it until it boils. Unless you have a valve on the tubing you
won't have an overpressure problem.

But it's a lot easier to use Castrol purple cleaner - spray it on, work
it with a wire brush, wash it off.

GWE

--
Posted via a free Usenet account from http://www.teranews.com

Thanks, Grant.

I think that I will put your idea on the back burner, pardon pun, until I
need a steam cleaner for outside.

I need this inside but your post suggests that my idea is feasible.

I can't get in the crevices that I need to get clean with a wire brush.

I will have to soak with diesel fuel and steam it and then blow dry.

I definitely will make the propane bottle deal later on.

j/b


"Grant Erwin" wrote in message
.. .
jusme wrote:
I need to clean some really caked on grease that is on an old engine in a
machine.

I was thinking of taking a tea kettle and shutting the spring-loaded lid,
inserting some 1/4" copper tubing into the lid's hole, setting the thing
on a hot-plate, putting a spring on the tubing where one would hold the
tubing so as to prevent fingers being burned.

Any suggestions would be appreciated.

If you want to build a steam generator, here's an easy way: take an old
propane bottle and follow the steps on the Web to remove the valve and
prepare it for reuse:

http://tinyisland.com/LPvalveRemoval.html

Then you can put water in it and thread in a 3/4" plug which has been
drilled and fitted with 1/4" tubing. Put the whole thing on an outdoor
burner like the kind that comes with a turkey deepfrying setup, and
heat it until it boils. Unless you have a valve on the tubing you
won't have an overpressure problem.

But it's a lot easier to use Castrol purple cleaner - spray it on, work
it with a wire brush, wash it off.

GWE

--
Posted via a free Usenet account from http://www.teranews.com

"jusme" wrote: I think that I will put your idea on the back burner,
pardon pun, until I
need a steam cleaner for outside. (clip)
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
You can buy a small household steam cleaner for about $50. Holds about a
pint of water, and does quite a bit on a single fill. Mine really works
well, and I have no doubt that it would do your engine in about a half hour.

Okay, Leo.

Thanks for that information. Where are they sold, as I may want to get some
ideas from it.

j/b


"Leo Lichtman" wrote in message
...

"jusme" wrote: I think that I will put your idea on the back burner,
pardon pun, until I
need a steam cleaner for outside. (clip)
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
You can buy a small household steam cleaner for about $50. Holds about a
pint of water, and does quite a bit on a single fill. Mine really works
well, and I have no doubt that it would do your engine in about a half
hour.

Target sells a Shark Steam Blaster Jr. for $40 that comes with an
extension hose, attachments, and something you didn't mention: a safety
valve. I bought one for the same purpose, cleaning up an old engine. Works
fine for that, and amounts to some cheap insurance.

- Bruce

"jusme" wrote in :

Okay, Leo.

Thanks for that information. Where are they sold, as I may want to get
some
ideas from it.

j/b


"Leo Lichtman" wrote in message
...

"jusme" wrote: I think that I will put your idea on the back burner,
pardon pun, until I
need a steam cleaner for outside. (clip)
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
You can buy a small household steam cleaner for about $50. Holds about
a
pint of water, and does quite a bit on a single fill. Mine really
works
well, and I have no doubt that it would do your engine in about a half
hour.

"jusme" wrote: Thanks for that information. Where are
they sold, as I may want to get some ideas from it.
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
I can't help you much there, kuz I bought mine on Craig's List. The only
other place I have seen them is late nite TV commercials. It is a "Scunci
Steamer." Bruce Spainhower's response has caused me to delete a whole lot
of what I had written.

BTW, a big advantage these units have over w2hat you can buiold out of a
teakettle is that they build up pressure, and deliver the steam to the
nozzle at high velicity, which, I am sure, has a lot to do with their
effectiveness.

Leo,

I was going to secure the 'pouring lid' so that the only escape was through
the tubing.

j/b


"Leo Lichtman" wrote in message
...

"jusme" wrote: Thanks for that information. Where
are they sold, as I may want to get some ideas from it.
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
I can't help you much there, kuz I bought mine on Craig's List. The only
other place I have seen them is late nite TV commercials. It is a "Scunci
Steamer." Bruce Spainhower's response has caused me to delete a whole
lot of what I had written.

BTW, a big advantage these units have over w2hat you can buiold out of a
teakettle is that they build up pressure, and deliver the steam to the
nozzle at high velicity, which, I am sure, has a lot to do with their
effectiveness.

Bruce, good on ya, mite.

I will go to target and take a look. I don't know in what department but I
will persevere.

I didn't mention a safety since I will use it without one at first and then,
install one after I get through with what I need, in case someone else uses
it without realizing the danger.

Thanks.

j/b

"Bruce Spainhower" wrote in message
...
Target sells a Shark Steam Blaster Jr. for $40 that comes with an
extension hose, attachments, and something you didn't mention: a safety
valve. I bought one for the same purpose, cleaning up an old engine. Works
fine for that, and amounts to some cheap insurance.

- Bruce

"jusme" wrote in :

Okay, Leo.

Thanks for that information. Where are they sold, as I may want to get
some
ideas from it.

j/b


"Leo Lichtman" wrote in message
...

"jusme" wrote: I think that I will put your idea on the back burner,
pardon pun, until I
need a steam cleaner for outside. (clip)
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
You can buy a small household steam cleaner for about $50. Holds about
a
pint of water, and does quite a bit on a single fill. Mine really
works
well, and I have no doubt that it would do your engine in about a half
hour.

On Dec 28, 9:41*pm, "jusme" wrote:
Bruce, good on ya, mite.

I will go to target and take a look. *I don't know in what department but I
will persevere.

I didn't mention a safety since I will use it without one at first and then,
install one after I get through with what I need, in case someone else uses
it without realizing the danger.

Thanks.

j/b

"Bruce Spainhower" wrote in message

...



Target sells a Shark Steam Blaster Jr. for $40 that comes with an
extension hose, attachments, and something you didn't mention: a safety
valve. I bought one for the same purpose, cleaning up an old engine. Works
fine for that, and amounts to some cheap insurance.

- Bruce

"jusme" wrote :

Okay, Leo.

Thanks for that information. *Where are they sold, as I may want to get
some
ideas from it.

j/b

"Leo Lichtman" wrote in message
...

"jusme" wrote: * I think that I will put your idea on the back burner,
pardon pun, until I
need a steam cleaner for outside. (clip)
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
You can buy a small household steam cleaner for about $50. *Holds about
a
pint of water, and does quite a bit on a single fill. *Mine really
works
well, and I have no doubt that it would do your engine in about a half
hour.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

A safety is there for a reason.

If you ever see the aftermath of a boiler explosion, you will
understand.

TMT

"Too_Many_Tools" wrote in message
...
On Dec 28, 9:41 pm, "jusme" wrote:

A safety is there for a reason.

If you ever see the aftermath of a boiler explosion, you will
understand.

TMT

As a guy who runs old steam boilers now and then, I feel a need to "pop off"
(pun intended) on this.

I've used steam cleaners on occasion and those that I've used are simply
"open." There is no way they can build up any appreciable pressure. You
light the burner and open the water valve. You get water for a while, then
you get steam. Since the system is "open" there is no opportunity to build
up any appreciable pressure.

On the other hand, the safety on a boiler, from a practical standpoint,
covers for you on two different (related) fronts. First is the situation
where you clumsily get the fire a little too hot and make a little more
steam than is being used. The other is when you make steam expecting it to
be needed and then the hogger (who, embarrassingly, may be yourself) doesn't
take it. But, in these cases, you only have a "little" too much to be
disposed of. If things go horribly wrong, the safety isn't going to take
care of it all and you're apt to send your dumb ass in the general direction
of the moon.

The safety will cover a mistake. Total stupidity is another matter...

Jerry

On Sat, 29 Dec 2007 05:48:00 GMT, "Jerry Foster"
wrote:


"Too_Many_Tools" wrote in message
...
On Dec 28, 9:41 pm, "jusme" wrote:

A safety is there for a reason.

If you ever see the aftermath of a boiler explosion, you will
understand.

TMT

As a guy who runs old steam boilers now and then, I feel a need to "pop off"
(pun intended) on this.

I've used steam cleaners on occasion and those that I've used are simply
"open." There is no way they can build up any appreciable pressure. You
light the burner and open the water valve. You get water for a while, then
you get steam. Since the system is "open" there is no opportunity to build
up any appreciable pressure.

On the other hand, the safety on a boiler, from a practical standpoint,
covers for you on two different (related) fronts. First is the situation
where you clumsily get the fire a little too hot and make a little more
steam than is being used. The other is when you make steam expecting it to
be needed and then the hogger (who, embarrassingly, may be yourself) doesn't
take it. But, in these cases, you only have a "little" too much to be
disposed of. If things go horribly wrong, the safety isn't going to take
care of it all and you're apt to send your dumb ass in the general direction
of the moon.

The safety will cover a mistake. Total stupidity is another matter...

Jerry

A couple years ago I picked up the boiler from an old, industrial
steam iron; electrically heated with gage tube and TWO safety blow off
valves, one set for 40 and the other for 60 PSI IIRC
Gerry :-)}
London, Canada

Leo's right, I forgot to mention the jet velocity the commercial one
produces. It travels a good five or six feet when you just point it across
the room and hit the button. Just pay the forty bucks. You'll be happier.
They're with the vacuum cleaners at Target. You can always wear a disguise to
shop that department. ;-)

"Leo Lichtman" wrote in news:YWidj.338103
:


"jusme" wrote: Thanks for that information. Where are
they sold, as I may want to get some ideas from it.
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
I can't help you much there, kuz I bought mine on Craig's List. The only
other place I have seen them is late nite TV commercials. It is a "Scunci
Steamer." Bruce Spainhower's response has caused me to delete a whole lot
of what I had written.

BTW, a big advantage these units have over w2hat you can buiold out of a
teakettle is that they build up pressure, and deliver the steam to the
nozzle at high velicity, which, I am sure, has a lot to do with their
effectiveness.

Okay, Bruce. thanks.

I will take a look at them.
j/b


"Bruce Spainhower" wrote in message
...
Leo's right, I forgot to mention the jet velocity the commercial one
produces. It travels a good five or six feet when you just point it across
the room and hit the button. Just pay the forty bucks. You'll be happier.
They're with the vacuum cleaners at Target. You can always wear a disguise
to
shop that department. ;-)

"Leo Lichtman" wrote in news:YWidj.338103
:


"jusme" wrote: Thanks for that information. Where
are
they sold, as I may want to get some ideas from it.
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
I can't help you much there, kuz I bought mine on Craig's List. The only
other place I have seen them is late nite TV commercials. It is a
"Scunci
Steamer." Bruce Spainhower's response has caused me to delete a whole
lot
of what I had written.

BTW, a big advantage these units have over w2hat you can buiold out of a
teakettle is that they build up pressure, and deliver the steam to the
nozzle at high velicity, which, I am sure, has a lot to do with their
effectiveness.

Bruce Spainhower wrote:

Leo's right, I forgot to mention the jet velocity the commercial one
produces. It travels a good five or six feet when you just point it across
the room and hit the button. Just pay the forty bucks. You'll be happier.
They're with the vacuum cleaners at Target. You can always wear a disguise to
shop that department. ;-)


What kind of disguise? That's in one of the Women's parts of the
store.


--
Service to my country? Been there, Done that, and I've got my DD214 to
prove it.
Member of DAV #85.

Michael A. Terrell
Central Florida

Any boiler can become dangerous when there is only a single outlet and it
becomes plugged. My friend had a kitchen pressure cooker explode when the
pressure maintaining device plugged and the emergency relief valve was also
plugged.
Old railroad steame engines usually had 3 pressure relief valves all set
about 1 psi apart.
Bad thing about a boiler explosion is not only the boiler steam (and it can
be way over 212 degrees, depending on the pressure) but the water volume in
the boiler, which can also be way over 212 degrees. Again depending on the
pressure. When the boiler ruptures, all the remain liquid water immediately
flashes into steam, with the loss of the pressure. I believe the volume
ratio is something like 10,000 to 1 cubic units, of water when turning into
steam. And when this steam condenses, you have water at less than 211
degrees. Many ways to burned badly.



--
Posted via a free Usenet account from http://www.teranews.com

"jusme" wrote:

Any suggestions would be appreciated.


Wives pressure cooker. Make sure it safety popoff valve is working.

Wes

Wes, that is a good idea except they are My pressure cookers.....love 'em;
wife is afraid of them.

I plan to test one after I get over this cold.

I don't really know what to use for a hose but I will figure out something,
I guess.


j/b


"Wes" wrote in message
...
"jusme" wrote:

Any suggestions would be appreciated.


Wives pressure cooker. Make sure it safety popoff valve is working.

Wes

replying to jusme, Mr. Wonder wrote:
Did it work? That sound really smart. May I ask doesn't work on car and truck
engines?

--
posted from
http://www.polytechforum.com/metalwo...ner-96147-.htm

replying to theChas., Ron wrote:
Water cannot be heated above 212 degrees Fahrenheit (as you mention above).
Steam can be heated above the boiling point but not water. However, you are
correct in the case of an explosion/rupture, the release of pressure would
immediately allow the water to turn to steam.

--
posted from
http://www.polytechforum.com/metalwo...ner-96147-.htm

On 06/10/2016 06:18 AM, Ron wrote:
replying to theChas., Ron wrote:
Water cannot be heated above 212 degrees Fahrenheit (as you mention above).
Steam can be heated above the boiling point but not water. However, you are
correct in the case of an explosion/rupture, the release of pressure would
immediately allow the water to turn to steam.

Water in the liquid phase can easily be heated to above 212F, I do it in
my pressure cooker all the time!

Jon

replying to Jon Danniken, Ron Henderson wrote:
It is impossible to heat water above it's boiling point. At that point it
becomes steam. Only the steam can be heated above 212°F.

--
posted from
http://www.polytechforum.com/metalwo...ner-96147-.htm

On 10/06/16 20:18, Ron Henderson wrote:
replying to Jon Danniken, Ron Henderson wrote:
It is impossible to heat water above it's boiling point. At that point it
becomes steam. Only the steam can be heated above 212°F.

You're missing the point that the boiling point of water is not absolute
but varies with the pressure it is subjected to. At lower pressures,
below 1atm, it boils at less than 212F (100C) and at higher pressures it
boils at a higher pressure such as in Jon's pressure cooker. See
http://www.engineeringtoolbox.com/bo...ter-d_926.html

"Ron Henderson"
wrote in message
roups.com...
replying to Jon Danniken, Ron Henderson wrote:
It is impossible to heat water above it's boiling point. At that
point it
becomes steam. Only the steam can be heated above 212°F.


The "boiling point" is the temperature at which the liquid's vapor
pressure equals the pressure of the air (or steam) above it, allowing
bubbles that form at hot spots to expand against the surrounding
pressure. Unlike the freezing point it is in no sense a constant, but
varies with imposed conditions.

In mile-high Denver water boils at ~202F/94C. Room-temperature water
will boil in a vacuum chamber. In a PWR-type nuclear power plant the
primary coolant water remains liquid at 600F and 2250PSI. If it
accidentally boils it becomes a less effective neutron moderator and
automatically decreases the rates of fission and heat production.

--jsw

On Fri, 10 Jun 2016 18:54:47 -0400, "Jim Wilkins"
wrote:

"Ron Henderson"
wrote in message
groups.com...
replying to Jon Danniken, Ron Henderson wrote:
It is impossible to heat water above it's boiling point. At that
point it
becomes steam. Only the steam can be heated above 212°F.


The "boiling point" is the temperature at which the liquid's vapor
pressure equals the pressure of the air (or steam) above it, allowing
bubbles that form at hot spots to expand against the surrounding
pressure. Unlike the freezing point it is in no sense a constant, but
varies with imposed conditions.

In mile-high Denver water boils at ~202F/94C. Room-temperature water
will boil in a vacuum chamber. In a PWR-type nuclear power plant the
primary coolant water remains liquid at 600F and 2250PSI. If it
accidentally boils it becomes a less effective neutron moderator and
automatically decreases the rates of fission and heat production.

....while dramatically increasing fear and screaming in the local
population.

--
Energy and persistence alter all things.
--Benjamin Franklin

"Larry Jaques" wrote in message
...
On Fri, 10 Jun 2016 18:54:47 -0400, "Jim Wilkins"
wrote:

"Ron Henderson"
wrote in message
sgroups.com...
replying to Jon Danniken, Ron Henderson wrote:
It is impossible to heat water above it's boiling point. At that
point it
becomes steam. Only the steam can be heated above 212°F.


The "boiling point" is the temperature at which the liquid's vapor
pressure equals the pressure of the air (or steam) above it,
allowing
bubbles that form at hot spots to expand against the surrounding
pressure. Unlike the freezing point it is in no sense a constant,
but
varies with imposed conditions.

In mile-high Denver water boils at ~202F/94C. Room-temperature water
will boil in a vacuum chamber. In a PWR-type nuclear power plant the
primary coolant water remains liquid at 600F and 2250PSI. If it
accidentally boils it becomes a less effective neutron moderator and
automatically decreases the rates of fission and heat production.

...while dramatically increasing fear and screaming in the local
population.


In Chernobyl's graphite-moderated RBMK design the rates -increase-
without water. This is the resulting melted core of Reactor 4 in the
basement:
http://rarehistoricalphotos.com/the-...disaster-1986/

Despite the destruction and dangers they kept the three other reactors
at the site operating for many years.
https://matteroffactsblog.wordpress....g-power-plant/

--jsw

STP - Standard Temperature and Pressure. Jack with pressure and the
temperature specs change.

Take the pressure off water e.g. vacuum and you can boil it.
In the reverse pressure up the water and it can't boil. e.g. no steam.
Release the pressure and zap, almost instant 100% steam. Sometimes
dangerously.


Martin

On 6/10/2016 2:18 PM, Ron Henderson wrote:
replying to Jon Danniken, Ron Henderson wrote:
It is impossible to heat water above it's boiling point. At that point it
becomes steam. Only the steam can be heated above 212°F.

That was a carbon pile moderator not a water moderator. The carbon
caught on fire and there it went. Cascading, melting and more and more.

Martin

On 6/10/2016 8:38 PM, Jim Wilkins wrote:
"Larry Jaques" wrote in message
...
On Fri, 10 Jun 2016 18:54:47 -0400, "Jim Wilkins"
wrote:

"Ron Henderson"
wrote in message
roups.com...
replying to Jon Danniken, Ron Henderson wrote:
It is impossible to heat water above it's boiling point. At that
point it
becomes steam. Only the steam can be heated above 212°F.


The "boiling point" is the temperature at which the liquid's vapor
pressure equals the pressure of the air (or steam) above it,
allowing
bubbles that form at hot spots to expand against the surrounding
pressure. Unlike the freezing point it is in no sense a constant,
but
varies with imposed conditions.

In mile-high Denver water boils at ~202F/94C. Room-temperature water
will boil in a vacuum chamber. In a PWR-type nuclear power plant the
primary coolant water remains liquid at 600F and 2250PSI. If it
accidentally boils it becomes a less effective neutron moderator and
automatically decreases the rates of fission and heat production.

...while dramatically increasing fear and screaming in the local
population.


In Chernobyl's graphite-moderated RBMK design the rates -increase-
without water. This is the resulting melted core of Reactor 4 in the
basement:
http://rarehistoricalphotos.com/the-...disaster-1986/

Despite the destruction and dangers they kept the three other reactors
at the site operating for many years.
https://matteroffactsblog.wordpress....g-power-plant/

--jsw

"Martin Eastburn" wrote in message
...
STP - Standard Temperature and Pressure. Jack with pressure and the
temperature specs change.

Take the pressure off water e.g. vacuum and you can boil it.
In the reverse pressure up the water and it can't boil. e.g. no
steam.
Release the pressure and zap, almost instant 100% steam. Sometimes
dangerously.
Martin

This is a practical application of the energy stored in hot water
under pressu
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Fireless_locomotive

--jsw

"Martin Eastburn" wrote in message
...
That was a carbon pile moderator not a water moderator. The carbon
caught on fire and there it went. Cascading, melting and more and
more.

Martin

On 6/10/2016 8:38 PM, Jim Wilkins wrote:
In Chernobyl's graphite-moderated RBMK design the rates -increase-
without water. This is the resulting melted core of Reactor 4 in
the
basement:
http://rarehistoricalphotos.com/the-...disaster-1986/

Despite the destruction and dangers they kept the three other
reactors
at the site operating for many years.
https://matteroffactsblog.wordpress....g-power-plant/

--jsw

http://www.world-nuclear.org/informa...-reactors.aspx
"It is very different from most other power reactor designs as it
derived from a design principally for plutonium production and was
intended and used in Russia for both plutonium and power production."

"Jim Wilkins" on Fri, 10 Jun 2016 21:38:14
-0400 typed in rec.crafts.metalworking the following:
"Larry Jaques" wrote in message
.. .
On Fri, 10 Jun 2016 18:54:47 -0400, "Jim Wilkins"
wrote:

"Ron Henderson"
wrote in message
wsgroups.com...
replying to Jon Danniken, Ron Henderson wrote:
It is impossible to heat water above it's boiling point. At that
point it
becomes steam. Only the steam can be heated above 212°F.


The "boiling point" is the temperature at which the liquid's vapor
pressure equals the pressure of the air (or steam) above it,
allowing
bubbles that form at hot spots to expand against the surrounding
pressure. Unlike the freezing point it is in no sense a constant,
but
varies with imposed conditions.

In mile-high Denver water boils at ~202F/94C. Room-temperature water
will boil in a vacuum chamber. In a PWR-type nuclear power plant the
primary coolant water remains liquid at 600F and 2250PSI. If it
accidentally boils it becomes a less effective neutron moderator and
automatically decreases the rates of fission and heat production.

...while dramatically increasing fear and screaming in the local
population.


In Chernobyl's graphite-moderated RBMK design the rates -increase-
without water. This is the resulting melted core of Reactor 4 in the
basement:
http://rarehistoricalphotos.com/the-...disaster-1986/

Despite the destruction and dangers they kept the three other reactors
at the site operating for many years.
https://matteroffactsblog.wordpress....g-power-plant/

Something about still needing the electrical production, as I
recall.
--
pyotr filipivich
"With Age comes Wisdom. Although more often, Age travels alone."

Ron Henderson on
Fri, 10 Jun 2016 19:18:01 +0000 typed in rec.crafts.metalworking the
following:
replying to Jon Danniken, Ron Henderson wrote:
It is impossible to heat water above it's boiling point. At that point it
becomes steam. Only the steam can be heated above 212°F.

Actually, you're half correct. You cannot heat water above the
boiling point. But the boiling point of any material is also subject
to the pressure upon it. Carbon dioxide goes from solid to gas in
atmosphere, because its boiling point at that pressure is below the
melting point.
If you want to heat water above the boiling point, you just have
to be able to contain the pressure. The Steam Institute has a booklet
with tables, that as temp goes up, pressure goes up, until the
critical point, after which there is apparently no difference between
liquid water and gaseous water.

"In water, the critical point occurs at around 647 K (374 °C) and
22.064 MPa (218 atm). As the substance approaches critical
temperature, the properties of its gas and liquid phases converge,
resulting in only one phase at the critical point: a homogeneous
supercritical fluid."

tschus
pyotr


--
pyotr filipivich
"With Age comes Wisdom. Although more often, Age travels alone."