According to Ignoramus32225 :
On 2007-10-28, john wrote:
I got a real nice pedistal grinder for nothing which was very noisy and
the thru bolts were stripped holding the motor halves together. Some
threaded rod and new bearings did wonders for it. The biggest problem
after that was to remember to turn the thing off since it was so quiet.

I have a Baldor grinder (regular bench kind), and it is that quiet. It
keeps running for minutes after I turn it off. Very amazing.

I am amazed to say that the same is true of the 8" JET grinder
which I got from a local builder's hardware store. It had been in the
window so long (with the box) that the box was badly faded. I decided
to give it a try, since they were anxious to get rid of it, and when I
got it home I was amazed by how quiet it is -- and how quickly it spins
up to full speed.

Enjoy,
DoN.

--
Email: | Voice (all times): (703) 938-4564
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"Gunner Asch" wrote in message
...
On Sun, 28 Oct 2007 19:30:10 GMT, "Harold and Susan Vordos"
wrote:


"Wes" wrote in message
...
Mark Rand wrote:

Use the finest bonded diamond wheel you can find. You don't need to
remove
much material at all to refresh a scraper bit and you need to end up
with
a
mirror finish. Stay away from the silicon carbide!

I roughed out the radius on one of the scrapers I am making last night
during break on a silicon carbide wheel at work. I wasn't impressed at
all.
I'll buy the diamond wheel.

Thanks,

Wes

Good choice. Mark knows of what he speaks!

I've always been underwhelmed by the performance of silicon carbide for
grinding tungsten carbide. If you look at the edge created, it's always
chipped, never smooth. How in hell is that supposed to work properly?

Harold

SC is only supposed to be..in most applications..the rougher, with
diamond being the finisher.

Don't buy into that bull****. You can move more carbide per unit time with
a fine diamond wheel than you can with a coarse silicon carbide wheel-----so
where's the advantage? Taking the discussion further, it's entirely likely
that a $125 diamond wheel will last longer than a dozen $20 silicon carbide
wheels, so you can't even argue economics. The only possible advantage I
can see is that you can club off some carbide by a poor method without
spending as much money up front, but you pay the price, it's just a matter
of when. In most cases it's by reduced performance and tool life.

As I said, I've been using diamond wheels for over 50 years now, and that
includes a short stint (5 months) in a shop that used silicon carbide wheels
exclusively. I have more than my share of experience grinding carbide by
both methods. I don't recommend green silicon carbide wheels for anything,
or anyone, unless the person in question has absolutely no prospects of
buying a diamond wheel. The degraded condition of tools ground with those
green wheels is such that it's hard to get them to perform to satisfaction.

I guess you can consider the opportunity to breath silicon one of the
advantages. I think I'd rather not.

Harold

"DoN. Nichols" wrote in message
...
According to Ignoramus32225 :
On 2007-10-28, john wrote:
I got a real nice pedistal grinder for nothing which was very noisy and
the thru bolts were stripped holding the motor halves together. Some
threaded rod and new bearings did wonders for it. The biggest problem
after that was to remember to turn the thing off since it was so quiet.

I have a Baldor grinder (regular bench kind), and it is that quiet. It
keeps running for minutes after I turn it off. Very amazing.

I am amazed to say that the same is true of the 8" JET grinder
which I got from a local builder's hardware store. It had been in the
window so long (with the box) that the box was badly faded. I decided
to give it a try, since they were anxious to get rid of it, and when I
got it home I was amazed by how quiet it is -- and how quickly it spins
up to full speed.

Enjoy,

I'm not surprised. Depending on how old Jet products are, they can be of
excellent quality. I purchased three small (1/4" capacity chucks) Jet
drill presses back in the late 60's for a production job I was running for a
customer. The quality of the machines equaled that of many industrially
rated machines, and were very satisfactory. I sold two after completing the
job, and still have one. At that time, Japan was building the equipment.
No further comment should be needed.

Harold

On Mon, 29 Oct 2007 03:54:04 GMT, "Harold and Susan Vordos"
wrote:


"Gunner Asch" wrote in message
.. .
On Sun, 28 Oct 2007 19:30:10 GMT, "Harold and Susan Vordos"
wrote:


"Wes" wrote in message
...
Mark Rand wrote:

Use the finest bonded diamond wheel you can find. You don't need to
remove
much material at all to refresh a scraper bit and you need to end up
with
a
mirror finish. Stay away from the silicon carbide!

I roughed out the radius on one of the scrapers I am making last night
during break on a silicon carbide wheel at work. I wasn't impressed at
all.
I'll buy the diamond wheel.

Thanks,

Wes

Good choice. Mark knows of what he speaks!

I've always been underwhelmed by the performance of silicon carbide for
grinding tungsten carbide. If you look at the edge created, it's always
chipped, never smooth. How in hell is that supposed to work properly?

Harold

SC is only supposed to be..in most applications..the rougher, with
diamond being the finisher.

Don't buy into that bull****. You can move more carbide per unit time with
a fine diamond wheel than you can with a coarse silicon carbide wheel-----so
where's the advantage? Taking the discussion further, it's entirely likely
that a $125 diamond wheel will last longer than a dozen $20 silicon carbide
wheels, so you can't even argue economics. The only possible advantage I
can see is that you can club off some carbide by a poor method without
spending as much money up front, but you pay the price, it's just a matter
of when. In most cases it's by reduced performance and tool life.

As I said, I've been using diamond wheels for over 50 years now, and that
includes a short stint (5 months) in a shop that used silicon carbide wheels
exclusively. I have more than my share of experience grinding carbide by
both methods. I don't recommend green silicon carbide wheels for anything,
or anyone, unless the person in question has absolutely no prospects of
buying a diamond wheel. The degraded condition of tools ground with those
green wheels is such that it's hard to get them to perform to satisfaction.

I guess you can consider the opportunity to breath silicon one of the
advantages. I think I'd rather not.

Harold

hummmmm.....I cant remove as much carbide with a fine diamond wheel as
I can with a green wheel. I guess I must be doing something very
wrong.

Ive two actual Baldor cutter grinders, the KO Lee tool and cutter
grinder, the 618 B&S clone surface grinder, the 6x8 Covell surface
grinder.

Oh..and the two diamond lappers.

I tend to belt sand or green wheel to shape, and finish with the (3)
diamond wheels that I own, or lap with the lappers.

What am I doing wrong?

Gunner


"[L]iberals are afraid to state what they truly believe in, for to do so
would result in even less votes than they currently receive. Their
methodology is to lie about their real agenda in the hopes of regaining
power, at which point they will do whatever they damn well please. The
problem is they have concealed and obfuscated for so long that, as a group,
they themselves are no longer sure of their goals. They are a collection of
wild-eyed splinter groups, all holding a grab-bag of dreams and wishes. Some
want a Socialist, secular-humanist state, others the repeal of the Second
Amendment. Some want same sex/different species marriage, others want voting
rights for trees, fish, coal and bugs. Some want cradle to grave care and
complete subservience to the government nanny state, others want a culture
that walks in lockstep and speaks only with intonations of political
correctness. I view the American liberals in much the same way I view the
competing factions of Islamic
fundamentalists. The latter hate each other to the core, and only join
forces to attack the US or Israel. The former hate themselves to the core,
and only join forces to attack George Bush and conservatives." --Ron Marr

"Gunner Asch" wrote in message
news snip------

I tend to belt sand or green wheel to shape, and finish with the (3)
diamond wheels that I own, or lap with the lappers.

What am I doing wrong?

Gunner

Wrong?

Is there such a thing? If what you're doing works for you, you're not
destroying your wheels, and you're satisfied with the results, go for it.

When I use a diamond wheel, it's with flood coolant, and I'm not afraid to
bear down on it. There's a point where the wheel cuts quite well, and that
keeps the wheel in proper trim along with moving the carbide. It's smart
to start off lightly, so you establish a flat surface on the carbide.
That's so it doesn't abrade the diamond wheel, which is a concern with
resinoid bonded wheels. Mind you, I'm talking about removing a chipped
edge, where you push back the carbide until you're down to good material.
When I sharpen a tool, I use a different procedure, which includes lighter
pressure.

One thing that you should do religiously is remove any steel that is below
or behind the carbide to be ground. If you allow the least bit to remain,
it dulls the diamond and makes grinding dreadfully slow. You should also
know about dressing the surface of a diamond wheel. When you've babied it
too long, it gets loaded with crud and actually comes close to not
functioning. A very fine dressing stick should be applied to the wheel,
which will clean it up nicely.

By the way, I use a 220 grit diamond wheel. It does a good job of moving
carbide, and leaves a very nice surface.

Harold

On Sat, 27 Oct 2007 14:15:38 -0700, Too_Many_Tools
wrote:

On Oct 27, 11:32 am, matt wrote:
**** a Duck - you Yanks are totally up yourselves. Your complaining
the 149.50 tool grinder is not up to scratch.....JHC, what the **** do
you want for that? - do you expect a high precision industrial quality
instrument? - yeh, sure, if its a sale from the rust belt of US
manufacturing, else its totally worn out....wow, $16 for 200 miles in
gas cost - wish the rest of the world had it so cheap....

Mate, you well off, just too dumb to realise it.....

Andrew VK3BFA.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

As a bemused by-stander, I must agree. We have had it far too good for
far too long here. The decimation of the US industrial manufacturing
base
due to both poor response to global competition and the "WalMart"
consumer mentality in this country is staggering. In the area of
Chinese
tools, there is a lot to choose from, but it has now actually become
quite
difficult to distinguish in some cases what the actual country of
origin
may be, since so many US suppliers now outsource the "dirty work" to
China or other countries, then rebrand the item as their own. I am of
course guilty of buying from HF those items that don't have a high
level of criticality as I see it. I would never trust a Chinese 6"
caliper
to work as my only measuring tool, in constant use, but for occasional
use, my Chinese 12" dial caliper (at $39 or whatever the hell it was)
is
a good example of the "value" equation. One buys Chinese with the
full knowledge that quality is widely variable, repair may be needed
before first use, and safety is never paramount in the product. If you
can live with that, you have the opportunity to get some real deals,
and further the cause of US economic decline at the same time.

The post of the day...excellent assessment of the situation.

We are the enemy.

Not me, I'd make my own *shoes* if there were more hours in the day.
I've found more than a few times that even my first half-assed
attempts at making stuff I need works out far better than the crap on
offer most places these days.