Boner of the year award goes to.......... ME!!!

The Quill lock on my machine was missing the "quill lock handle" I
thought it was a blind pin as I saw no hole on the part I assumed was a pin.
I accidentally found a picture of the part while looking on E-Bay for a fine
feed wheel.
When I got the mill I found the quill lock pin inside of one of the T
slots on the table. Not knowing what it was for- but assured myself it was
important so I put it aside. I then saw the part on EBay minutes ago and it
made sense. Boy, do I feel stupid. Now it works with more ease than my
buddy's mill (Which is also missing the quill loch handle) Mine just
happened to be on full tension sans the handle and the hole was out of sight
and now I'm set!!
Thanks to all of you who offered your helpful replies and assistance.
I'm still going to replace the timing and drive belt as well as the draw bar
since there is that run-out I'm not comfy with. Little things bite me in the
ass every time.

Respects,

Rob

On 2007-10-26, Rob Fraser FraserRacing wrote:
Boner of the year award goes to.......... ME!!!

The Quill lock on my machine was missing the "quill lock handle" I
thought it was a blind pin as I saw no hole on the part I assumed was a pin.
I accidentally found a picture of the part while looking on E-Bay for a fine
feed wheel.
When I got the mill I found the quill lock pin inside of one of the T
slots on the table. Not knowing what it was for- but assured myself it was
important so I put it aside. I then saw the part on EBay minutes ago and it
made sense. Boy, do I feel stupid. Now it works with more ease than my
buddy's mill (Which is also missing the quill loch handle) Mine just
happened to be on full tension sans the handle and the hole was out of sight
and now I'm set!!
Thanks to all of you who offered your helpful replies and assistance.
I'm still going to replace the timing and drive belt as well as the draw bar
since there is that run-out I'm not comfy with. Little things bite me in the
ass every time.

I also thought that it was a quill lock... Can you re-measure runout
again, without the quill lock binding the quill?

i

"Ignoramus7291" wrote in message
...
On 2007-10-26, Rob Fraser FraserRacing wrote:
Boner of the year award goes to.......... ME!!!

The Quill lock on my machine was missing the "quill lock handle" I
thought it was a blind pin as I saw no hole on the part I assumed was a
pin.
I accidentally found a picture of the part while looking on E-Bay for a
fine
feed wheel.
When I got the mill I found the quill lock pin inside of one of the T
slots on the table. Not knowing what it was for- but assured myself it
was
important so I put it aside. I then saw the part on EBay minutes ago and
it
made sense. Boy, do I feel stupid. Now it works with more ease than my
buddy's mill (Which is also missing the quill loch handle) Mine just
happened to be on full tension sans the handle and the hole was out of
sight
and now I'm set!!
Thanks to all of you who offered your helpful replies and assistance.
I'm still going to replace the timing and drive belt as well as the draw
bar
since there is that run-out I'm not comfy with. Little things bite me in
the
ass every time.

I also thought that it was a quill lock... Can you re-measure runout
again, without the quill lock binding the quill?

i

Iggy,

The run-out is still just under .040 spun by hand. You called it right.
I just could not see the locking assembly with the hole for the handle
obscured by the case casting. I should have dropped the table all the way
down and I would have seen it I bet. Without the pin handle in there it sure
looks just like a pin to retain the ram. God, I feel like I should invest in
a short-bus...
I ordered the parts from Discount Machine today. I have been spending
money with them like a crack-head but I can't beat the prices and the stuff
is on my door the next morning. (WWW.Shars.Com) for anyone interested.



Rob

Rob Fraser wrote:

"Ignoramus7291" wrote in message
...
On 2007-10-26, Rob Fraser FraserRacing wrote:
Boner of the year award goes to.......... ME!!!

The Quill lock on my machine was missing the "quill lock handle" I
thought it was a blind pin as I saw no hole on the part I assumed was a
pin.
I accidentally found a picture of the part while looking on E-Bay for a
fine
feed wheel.
When I got the mill I found the quill lock pin inside of one of the T
slots on the table. Not knowing what it was for- but assured myself it
was
important so I put it aside. I then saw the part on EBay minutes ago and
it
made sense. Boy, do I feel stupid. Now it works with more ease than my
buddy's mill (Which is also missing the quill loch handle) Mine just
happened to be on full tension sans the handle and the hole was out of
sight
and now I'm set!!
Thanks to all of you who offered your helpful replies and assistance.
I'm still going to replace the timing and drive belt as well as the draw
bar
since there is that run-out I'm not comfy with. Little things bite me in
the
ass every time.

I also thought that it was a quill lock... Can you re-measure runout
again, without the quill lock binding the quill?

i

Iggy,

The run-out is still just under .040 spun by hand. You called it right.
I just could not see the locking assembly with the hole for the handle
obscured by the case casting. I should have dropped the table all the way
down and I would have seen it I bet. Without the pin handle in there it sure
looks just like a pin to retain the ram. God, I feel like I should invest in
a short-bus...
I ordered the parts from Discount Machine today. I have been spending
money with them like a crack-head but I can't beat the prices and the stuff
is on my door the next morning. (WWW.Shars.Com) for anyone interested.

Rob

You can invest in a short-bus, but only if you outfit it as a mobile
machine shop...

"Robert Swinney" wrote in message
...
A curious question: Now that you've found the quill lock, have you
determined the spindle runout is
worse or the same when you takej the drag off the quill.?

Bob Swinney


Bob, It's the same.

Rob

"Rob Fraser" FraserRacing"AT"RobFraser.Net wrote in message
...
Boner of the year award goes to.......... ME!!!

The Quill lock on my machine was missing the "quill lock handle" I
thought it was a blind pin as I saw no hole on the part I assumed was a
pin. I accidentally found a picture of the part while looking on E-Bay for
a fine feed wheel.
When I got the mill I found the quill lock pin inside of one of the T
slots on the table. Not knowing what it was for- but assured myself it was
important so I put it aside. I then saw the part on EBay minutes ago and
it made sense. Boy, do I feel stupid. Now it works with more ease than my
buddy's mill (Which is also missing the quill loch handle) Mine just
happened to be on full tension sans the handle and the hole was out of
sight and now I'm set!!
Thanks to all of you who offered your helpful replies and assistance.
I'm still going to replace the timing and drive belt as well as the draw
bar since there is that run-out I'm not comfy with. Little things bite me
in the ass every time.

Respects,

Rob


I replaced the draw-bar today. Thing was as crooked as President Bush. Now
the top seated runout is less than .005 bottom at the collett is nil.

Rob

On 2007-10-27, Rob Fraser FraserRacing wrote:

"Rob Fraser" FraserRacing"AT"RobFraser.Net wrote in message
...
Boner of the year award goes to.......... ME!!!

The Quill lock on my machine was missing the "quill lock handle" I
thought it was a blind pin as I saw no hole on the part I assumed was a
pin. I accidentally found a picture of the part while looking on E-Bay for
a fine feed wheel.
When I got the mill I found the quill lock pin inside of one of the T
slots on the table. Not knowing what it was for- but assured myself it was
important so I put it aside. I then saw the part on EBay minutes ago and
it made sense. Boy, do I feel stupid. Now it works with more ease than my
buddy's mill (Which is also missing the quill loch handle) Mine just
happened to be on full tension sans the handle and the hole was out of
sight and now I'm set!!
Thanks to all of you who offered your helpful replies and assistance.
I'm still going to replace the timing and drive belt as well as the draw
bar since there is that run-out I'm not comfy with. Little things bite me
in the ass every time.

Respects,

Rob


I replaced the draw-bar today. Thing was as crooked as President
Bush.

Did this drawbar try to attack you spontaneously Without provocation?

Now the top seated runout is less than .005 bottom at the collett is
nil.

Congrats!

i

On Sat, 27 Oct 2007 11:50:27 -0500, "Rob Fraser"

SNIP


I replaced the draw-bar today. Thing was as crooked as President Bush. Now
the top seated runout is less than .005 bottom at the collett is nil.

Rob


Hey Rob,

Not to put too fine a point on it, but are you sure it was the
"drawbar" you replaced?!?! The thing that at the upper end has a 3/4"
hex 5" long and a 7/16 shaft about 18" long threaded 7/16-20 for about
two inches, and in use drops down through the quill to pull and seat
the R-8 collets? I hope you are right for your sake and the troubles
you reported, like 40 thou runout, but that seems pretty far out to
me.

I'd be more likely to believe that when you were putting in a collet,
you didn't get the collet groove lined up with the collet locating pin
inside the quill socket. Did you ever check that? That will give you
a terrific runout problem, and a problem keeping a tool tightened in
the collet, and a hard time to later get the collet out too. I do
doubt that doing this "incorrectly" and getting the collet in crooked
would cause a permanent dog-leg bend in the drawbar though, but I
stand to be corrected on that call.

Now I gotta admit, on about 90% of R-8 quills I've seen that are more
than a few years old, those collet locating pins are "gone", either
through misuse or by demand. Force of habit, but I ALWAYS run my
finger in the quill socket looking for either the pin or the pin hole,
before putting in another collet. Besides, working your finger around
in there is a good way to check for chips or other unwanteds, and
clean it out.

Take care. Hope all is well now.

Brian Lawson,
Bothwell, Ontario.

I replaced the draw-bar today. Thing was as crooked as President
Bush.

Did this drawbar try to attack you spontaneously Without provocation?

i

Only because it had TOO MUCH OIL on it!!!! (Ha ha!) And He (Bush) and
Halliburton wanted it back! They want a monopoly on crooked oily stuff! It
was a WMD if I were to swing it at anyone without cleaning first. Hey Iggy,
this did come from Boeing anyhow right?

Rob

Hey Rob,

Not to put too fine a point on it, but are you sure it was the
"drawbar" you replaced?!?! The thing that at the upper end has a 3/4"
hex 5" long and a 7/16 shaft about 18" long threaded 7/16-20 for about
two inches, and in use drops down through the quill to pull and seat
the R-8 collets? I hope you are right for your sake and the troubles
you reported, like 40 thou runout, but that seems pretty far out to
me.

I'd be more likely to believe that when you were putting in a collet,
you didn't get the collet groove lined up with the collet locating pin
inside the quill socket. Did you ever check that? That will give you
a terrific runout problem, and a problem keeping a tool tightened in
the collet, and a hard time to later get the collet out too. I do
doubt that doing this "incorrectly" and getting the collet in crooked
would cause a permanent dog-leg bend in the drawbar though, but I
stand to be corrected on that call.

Now I gotta admit, on about 90% of R-8 quills I've seen that are more
than a few years old, those collet locating pins are "gone", either
through misuse or by demand. Force of habit, but I ALWAYS run my
finger in the quill socket looking for either the pin or the pin hole,
before putting in another collet. Besides, working your finger around
in there is a good way to check for chips or other unwanteds, and
clean it out.

Take care. Hope all is well now.

Brian Lawson,
Bothwell, Ontario.

Hi Brian,
Thanks for the idea on seating the collet. Frankly I just line it up and
tighten it up top. The runout was at the top of the bar and it was indeed
bent on top 6" or so under the wrench area. Assuming by someone
"gorilla-torque" the 7/8" top of the draw bar while there was something
wrong or they did not know what they were doing that bent it.
For the future I'm using a flexible mirror and flashlight to check and
clean out the bore and keep Never-Seize on the drawbar threads. (The bar was
$30.00 from a friend NOS) so I lucked out on that. I'm pretty anal on
preventative maintenance on my gear and I'm going to take a community
college class on machining and try to find some ol' timers who will be
willing to share some knowledge. That is a thing we really lack here in the
Midwest. People really don't care to help unless they benefit somehow
monetary it seems. The under 30 age group is a bunch of smart-ass idiots
who are just out for a paycheck and don't know **** but talk a good game....
Trust me, I fired enough of them in the race engine business I own.

Respects,

Rob

On Sat, 27 Oct 2007 21:06:44 -0500, "Rob Fraser"
FraserRacing"AT"RobFraser.Net wrote:


Hey Rob,

Not to put too fine a point on it, but are you sure it was the
"drawbar" you replaced?!?! The thing that at the upper end has a 3/4"
hex 5" long and a 7/16 shaft about 18" long threaded 7/16-20 for about
two inches, and in use drops down through the quill to pull and seat
the R-8 collets? I hope you are right for your sake and the troubles
you reported, like 40 thou runout, but that seems pretty far out to
me.

I'd be more likely to believe that when you were putting in a collet,
you didn't get the collet groove lined up with the collet locating pin
inside the quill socket. Did you ever check that? That will give you
a terrific runout problem, and a problem keeping a tool tightened in
the collet, and a hard time to later get the collet out too. I do
doubt that doing this "incorrectly" and getting the collet in crooked
would cause a permanent dog-leg bend in the drawbar though, but I
stand to be corrected on that call.

Now I gotta admit, on about 90% of R-8 quills I've seen that are more
than a few years old, those collet locating pins are "gone", either
through misuse or by demand. Force of habit, but I ALWAYS run my
finger in the quill socket looking for either the pin or the pin hole,
before putting in another collet. Besides, working your finger around
in there is a good way to check for chips or other unwanteds, and
clean it out.

Take care. Hope all is well now.

Brian Lawson,
Bothwell, Ontario.

Hi Brian,
Thanks for the idea on seating the collet. Frankly I just line it up and
tighten it up top. The runout was at the top of the bar and it was indeed
bent on top 6" or so under the wrench area. Assuming by someone
"gorilla-torque" the 7/8" top of the draw bar while there was something
wrong or they did not know what they were doing that bent it.
For the future I'm using a flexible mirror and flashlight to check and
clean out the bore and keep Never-Seize on the drawbar threads. (The bar was
$30.00 from a friend NOS) so I lucked out on that. I'm pretty anal on
preventative maintenance on my gear and I'm going to take a community
college class on machining and try to find some ol' timers who will be
willing to share some knowledge. That is a thing we really lack here in the
Midwest. People really don't care to help unless they benefit somehow
monetary it seems. The under 30 age group is a bunch of smart-ass idiots
who are just out for a paycheck and don't know **** but talk a good game....
Trust me, I fired enough of them in the race engine business I own.

Respects,

Rob

=========
Given that you generally have to whack the end of the drawbar to
get the collet to release from the spindle, a combination wrench
and hammer is very handy. On most Bridgeports and clones there
are several other 3/4 hex fasteners on the head area where you
can park the wrench/hammer.
click on
http://www.use-enco.com/CGI/INSRIT?P...&PARTPG=INLMK3

also handy is a quick set stop for the vertical feed.
click on
http://www.use-enco.com/CGI/INSRIT?P...PMAKA=505-2177
also
http://www.use-enco.com/CGI/INSRIT?PMAKA=505-2178

Use a rubber band on the quill lock or click on
http://www.use-enco.com/CGI/INSRIT?P...&PARTPG=INLMK3

Kit to mount dial/digital indicator for quill travel
http://www.use-enco.com/CGI/INSRIT?P...PMAKA=240-3149

also helpful
http://www.use-enco.com/CGI/INSRIT?P...&PARTPG=INLMK3

and possibly
http://www.use-enco.com/CGI/INPDFF?P...MITEM=307-3307

use magnetic back indicators for x/y measurements when the dials
aren't close enough or you have lots of slop in the screws. not
as nice as a DRO but lots cheaper.
http://www.use-enco.com/CGI/INSRIT?P...PARTPG=INLMK32

Most mill supplys will have, these are just examples.


Unka' George [George McDuffee]
============
Merchants have no country.
The mere spot they stand on
does not constitute so strong an attachment
as that from which they draw their gains.

Thomas Jefferson (1743-1826),
U.S. president. Letter, 17 March 1814.