What should I get to make straight 90 degree or 45 degree cuts of
aluminum tube, sheet, etc? My arm is tired of hacksawing and my cuts are
never straight anyway. I tried a (wood) band saw before. The blade
wandered off line too much. Worse then my hacksaw. Maybe it was a cheap
bandsaw? What about these abrasive chop saws I see at home depot. I
would think that those would just melt little aluminum pieces. I see
metal cutting bandsaws, but it looks like they start at around $1000.

any tips? thanks

calgon wrote:

What should I get to make straight 90 degree or 45 degree cuts of
aluminum tube, sheet, etc? My arm is tired of hacksawing and my cuts are
never straight anyway. I tried a (wood) band saw before. The blade
wandered off line too much. Worse then my hacksaw. Maybe it was a cheap
bandsaw? What about these abrasive chop saws I see at home depot. I
would think that those would just melt little aluminum pieces. I see
metal cutting bandsaws, but it looks like they start at around $1000.

any tips? thanks

Try a nonferrous carbide-tipped blade on a table saw or worm drive.

GWE

calgon wrote:
What should I get to make straight 90 degree or 45 degree cuts of
aluminum tube, sheet, etc? My arm is tired of hacksawing and my cuts are
never straight anyway. I tried a (wood) band saw before. The blade
wandered off line too much. Worse then my hacksaw. Maybe it was a cheap
bandsaw? What about these abrasive chop saws I see at home depot. I
would think that those would just melt little aluminum pieces. I see
metal cutting bandsaws, but it looks like they start at around $1000.

any tips? thanks
As a metal craftsman, im always cutting thinner metal ,mostly by hand.
So how do I cut strait? every time?
1. The first thing is a sturdy work bench thatis at least 8ft long by
4ft wide. and doesnt move about
2. To this I have fixed at the 4ft point my third hand. thats a leg vice
thats at the right height, thats with the jaws at the height of your
elbow, for sawing and holding things. A decent weight say a 50lb one.
3. My hack saws are 2 types, several proper millers falls with bi metal
blades and a smaller ditto that takes the "junior" hack saw blades.
4.
Next all work is properly marked. ie the cutting angle, I use a square ,
scribe where to cut and mark properly with a black fine felt tip pen so
I can see the line well. Have a proper light shining on the cutting line
(Old tired eyes)
5.have the right no of teeth per inch for the thickness of metal your
cutting. Your hack saw blade supplier will tell you whats what.
Dont buy the cheap imported blades. Waste of time and money..
6. clamp the work in your third hand
7. keep your arms close to your body.
8. Dont ever push down on the saw, move it back and forth only ,
lightly and steadyly.
9. watch the line as your cutting
10. use a little candle wax or bees wax as a lube on the saw teeth.
Sometimes going slower gets there faster.
Thats just sawing,
To cutting sheet, Get a small bench guillotine, bolt it to a wood
block and clamp this in your leg vice so the cutting pull down handle
faces you. Cut your sheet with that.
I stood in at my sons school as their CDT teacher when their normal one
was off ill.
I had some 10 children who wanted to make all sorts of differnt things
over a 10 week period.
all out of wood .
Now they all had a bench each and saws and wood. You cannot imagine
how difficult it was to get these youngsters to cut a piece of wood to a
line!!
out of the 10 only 1 had a natural aptitude.
We got there in the end.!
Now it depends on what thickness your going to cut. you need the right
tools for the job. Ive just made a large special cabinet for an
electronics Co.
I had for example the 6ft lengths of 1/8in by 3in wide ali cut on a
pro brake guillotine as well as the sheet.

I pay my localsheet metal co $80 an hour for the use of any of their
machines and one man. I help hold etc. Any bending is also done on their
brake press. I bring in the metal with a cuttng list.
Its all down to technique.
To summarise
measure, carefully
mark accurately and clearly
support well and safely
cut carefully and slowly.
Hope this helps.
Ted Frater
Dorset UK

On Aug 2, 1:36?am, Ted Frater wrote:
calgon wrote:
What should I get to make straight 90 degree or 45 degree cuts of
aluminum tube, sheet, etc? My arm is tired of hacksawing and my cuts are
never straight anyway. I tried a (wood) band saw before. The blade
wandered off line too much. Worse then my hacksaw. Maybe it was a cheap
bandsaw? What about these abrasive chop saws I see at home depot. I
would think that those would just melt little aluminum pieces. I see
metal cutting bandsaws, but it looks like they start at around $1000.

any tips? thanks

As a metal craftsman, im always cutting thinner metal ,mostly by hand.
So how do I cut strait? every time?
1. The first thing is a sturdy work bench thatis at least 8ft long by
4ft wide. and doesnt move about
2. To this I have fixed at the 4ft point my third hand. thats a leg vice
thats at the right height, thats with the jaws at the height of your
elbow, for sawing and holding things. A decent weight say a 50lb one.
3. My hack saws are 2 types, several proper millers falls with bi metal
blades and a smaller ditto that takes the "junior" hack saw blades.
4.
Next all work is properly marked. ie the cutting angle, I use a square ,
scribe where to cut and mark properly with a black fine felt tip pen so
I can see the line well. Have a proper light shining on the cutting line
(Old tired eyes)
5.have the right no of teeth per inch for the thickness of metal your
cutting. Your hack saw blade supplier will tell you whats what.
Dont buy the cheap imported blades. Waste of time and money..
6. clamp the work in your third hand
7. keep your arms close to your body.
8. Dont ever push down on the saw, move it back and forth only ,
lightly and steadyly.
9. watch the line as your cutting
10. use a little candle wax or bees wax as a lube on the saw teeth.
Sometimes going slower gets there faster.
Thats just sawing,
To cutting sheet, Get a small bench guillotine, bolt it to a wood
block and clamp this in your leg vice so the cutting pull down handle
faces you. Cut your sheet with that.
I stood in at my sons school as their CDT teacher when their normal one
was off ill.
I had some 10 children who wanted to make all sorts of differnt things
over a 10 week period.
all out of wood .
Now they all had a bench each and saws and wood. You cannot imagine
how difficult it was to get these youngsters to cut a piece of wood to a
line!!
out of the 10 only 1 had a natural aptitude.
We got there in the end.!
Now it depends on what thickness your going to cut. you need the right
tools for the job. Ive just made a large special cabinet for an
electronics Co.
I had for example the 6ft lengths of 1/8in by 3in wide ali cut on a
pro brake guillotine as well as the sheet.

I pay my localsheet metal co $80 an hour for the use of any of their
machines and one man. I help hold etc. Any bending is also done on their
brake press. I bring in the metal with a cuttng list.
Its all down to technique.
To summarise
measure, carefully
mark accurately and clearly
support well and safely
cut carefully and slowly.
Hope this helps.
Ted Frater
Dorset UK

What a great answer. And don't drag the teeth on the back stroke!

Mike Mandaville

Austin, Texas

On Aug 2, 12:40 am, calgon wrote:
What should I get to make straight 90 degree or 45 degree cuts of
aluminum tube, sheet, etc? ... I tried a (wood) band saw before. The blade
wandered off line too much. ...
any tips? thanks

Woodworking bandsaws should cut aluminum if properly adjusted. When I
have to cut some in a client' companys shop I set the blade guides
close and sand them square if worn. A sharp blade helps but isn't
always available, usually the only one they have is dull from cutting
fiberglass circuit boards. Sometimes it's easier to cut straight if I
twist the work slightly so it rides on the back of the blade on one
side.

Jim Wilkins

On Aug 2, 5:48?am, Jim Wilkins wrote:
On Aug 2, 12:40 am, calgon wrote:

What should I get to make straight 90 degree or 45 degree cuts of
aluminum tube, sheet, etc? ... I tried a (wood) band saw before. The blade
wandered off line too much. ...
any tips? thanks

Woodworking bandsaws should cut aluminum if properly adjusted. When I
have to cut some in a client' companys shop I set the blade guides
close and sand them square if worn. A sharp blade helps but isn't
always available, usually the only one they have is dull from cutting
fiberglass circuit boards. Sometimes it's easier to cut straight if I
twist the work slightly so it rides on the back of the blade on one
side.

Jim Wilkins

Don't forget safety goggles and hearing protection!

calgon writes:

What should I get to make straight 90 degree or 45 degree cuts of
aluminum tube, sheet, etc? My arm is tired of hacksawing and my cuts are
never straight anyway.

Harbor Freight has a portable bandsaw about $80 (look for sales).
At least your arm won't tire.

Or you can get a Harbor Freight 4x6 bandsaw. That's $199 as of today's price.

93762-1VGA

Or as others told you, a table saw.

MikeMandaville wrote:
On Aug 2, 1:36?am, Ted Frater wrote:

calgon wrote:

What should I get to make straight 90 degree or 45 degree cuts of
aluminum tube, sheet, etc? My arm is tired of hacksawing and my cuts are
never straight anyway. I tried a (wood) band saw before. The blade
wandered off line too much. Worse then my hacksaw. Maybe it was a cheap
bandsaw? What about these abrasive chop saws I see at home depot. I
would think that those would just melt little aluminum pieces. I see
metal cutting bandsaws, but it looks like they start at around $1000.

any tips? thanks

As a metal craftsman, im always cutting thinner metal ,mostly by hand.
So how do I cut strait? every time?
1. The first thing is a sturdy work bench thatis at least 8ft long by
4ft wide. and doesnt move about
2. To this I have fixed at the 4ft point my third hand. thats a leg vice
thats at the right height, thats with the jaws at the height of your
elbow, for sawing and holding things. A decent weight say a 50lb one.
3. My hack saws are 2 types, several proper millers falls with bi metal
blades and a smaller ditto that takes the "junior" hack saw blades.
4.
Next all work is properly marked. ie the cutting angle, I use a square ,
scribe where to cut and mark properly with a black fine felt tip pen so
I can see the line well. Have a proper light shining on the cutting line
(Old tired eyes)
5.have the right no of teeth per inch for the thickness of metal your
cutting. Your hack saw blade supplier will tell you whats what.
Dont buy the cheap imported blades. Waste of time and money..
6. clamp the work in your third hand
7. keep your arms close to your body.
8. Dont ever push down on the saw, move it back and forth only ,
lightly and steadyly.
9. watch the line as your cutting
10. use a little candle wax or bees wax as a lube on the saw teeth.
Sometimes going slower gets there faster.
Thats just sawing,
To cutting sheet, Get a small bench guillotine, bolt it to a wood
block and clamp this in your leg vice so the cutting pull down handle
faces you. Cut your sheet with that.
I stood in at my sons school as their CDT teacher when their normal one
was off ill.
I had some 10 children who wanted to make all sorts of differnt things
over a 10 week period.
all out of wood .
Now they all had a bench each and saws and wood. You cannot imagine
how difficult it was to get these youngsters to cut a piece of wood to a
line!!
out of the 10 only 1 had a natural aptitude.
We got there in the end.!
Now it depends on what thickness your going to cut. you need the right
tools for the job. Ive just made a large special cabinet for an
electronics Co.
I had for example the 6ft lengths of 1/8in by 3in wide ali cut on a
pro brake guillotine as well as the sheet.

I pay my localsheet metal co $80 an hour for the use of any of their
machines and one man. I help hold etc. Any bending is also done on their
brake press. I bring in the metal with a cuttng list.
Its all down to technique.
To summarise
measure, carefully
mark accurately and clearly
support well and safely
cut carefully and slowly.
Hope this helps.
Ted Frater
Dorset UK


What a great answer. And don't drag the teeth on the back stroke!

Mike Mandaville

Austin, Texas


Hi Mike,
Hmmm... I agree with your thought on that aspect of sawing, I found
that on soft ie ali, copper etc alittle drag on the back stroke helps
clear the teeth of metal particles,especially on thin metal with a
24tpi toothed blade.
On iron/steel I find the metal comesout of the saw by itself so drag
on the back stroke doesnt help .
Any other views on this moot point?
interesting debating point.
Ted

Purchase a regular wood cutting mitre saw/chop saw and install a non ferrous
metal cutting blade. A small amount of paraffin wax on the sides of the
blade will reduce gumming. It is a fair investment but you can use the saw
for non metal jobs too.
Randy


"calgon" wrote in message
...
What should I get to make straight 90 degree or 45 degree cuts of
aluminum tube, sheet, etc? My arm is tired of hacksawing and my cuts are
never straight anyway. I tried a (wood) band saw before. The blade
wandered off line too much. Worse then my hacksaw. Maybe it was a cheap
bandsaw? What about these abrasive chop saws I see at home depot. I
would think that those would just melt little aluminum pieces. I see
metal cutting bandsaws, but it looks like they start at around $1000.

any tips? thanks

Chop Saw
Shear
Notcher
Iron Worker
Band Saw
Skill Saw
Saber Saw
SawsAll
Table Saw
Radial Arm Saw
Plasma Cutter

Let me double check the list ... yep, I've used them all at one time
or another.

I like Ted's post, Good job Ted. The ability to cut a straight line
with a hand saw is an important skill. One that has served me well
for many years. Whether you are using a a Hacksaw, Jigsaw, Bandsaw or
Mill the ability to make an offhand cut that follows a line is
important. Keep practicing.

starbolin

...And don't drag the teeth on the back stroke!

Mike Mandaville

Austin, Texas

Hi Mike,
Hmmm... I agree with your thought on that aspect of sawing, I found
that on soft ie ali, copper etc alittle drag on the back stroke helps
clear the teeth of metal particles,especially on thin metal with a
24tpi toothed blade.
On iron/steel I find the metal comesout of the saw by itself so drag
on the back stroke doesnt help .
Any other views on this moot point?
interesting debating point.
Ted

Certainly. We don't need no stinking power tools! ;-)

Thanks for the tips guys. When hacksawing flat bar or plate, do you lie
the piece flat on the table and cut across the hole thing, or do you
stand it on its side and cut down towards the floor?

calgon wrote:

Thanks for the tips guys. When hacksawing flat bar or plate, do you lie
the piece flat on the table and cut across the hole thing, or do you
stand it on its side and cut down towards the floor?

Yes.

:-)

Depends on the piece.

GWE

You should have at least three teeth on the work when cutting. Massive
tooth contact promotes clogging and inefficient cutting. Cutting vertically
down through a flat bar increases the chance of going off your line. A
diagonal cut with the flat bar flat on the table is the solution.
Randy

"calgon" wrote in message
...
Thanks for the tips guys. When hacksawing flat bar or plate, do you lie
the piece flat on the table and cut across the hole thing, or do you
stand it on its side and cut down towards the floor?

On Aug 1, 10:40 pm, calgon wrote:
What should I get to make straight 90 degree or 45 degree cuts of
aluminum tube, sheet, etc? My arm is tired of hacksawing and my cuts are
never straight anyway. I tried a (wood) band saw before. The blade
wandered off line too much. Worse then my hacksaw. Maybe it was a cheap
bandsaw? What about these abrasive chop saws I see at home depot. I
would think that those would just melt little aluminum pieces. I see
metal cutting bandsaws, but it looks like they start at around $1000.

any tips? thanks

For really small stuff, I use a razor saw and a mini-miter box, runs
about $7 at the local hardware store. Hobby shop has the exact same
thing but runs a few bucks more. This will handle extrusions up to
about 3/4" on a side.

For larger stuff, there's the ever-popular 4x6 horizontal bandsaw,
sometimes available from HF for 20-40-50% off depending on the phase
of the moon and what coupons you have on hand. I've got about $120
invested in mine. It can be used freehand for cutting plate, but it's
no Do-All. Most take tuning before they cut straight, there's sites
devoted to them.

Thin stock can be clamped between sheets of plywood and a router with
a straight wood bit used if you need fancy curves. For multiples, you
can even use wood patterns and the proper bit or router fitting for
riding against the pattern. Other woodworking machinery can be used
to cut extrusions and such, just use a fine-toothed blade in stuff
like circular saws.

Stan

calgon wrote:
Thanks for the tips guys. When hacksawing flat bar or plate, do you lie
the piece flat on the table and cut across the hole thing, or do you
stand it on its side and cut down towards the floor?

You dont hacksaw bar or plate or whatever by laying it flat on the table.
why? unless youve clamped it to the table so you can saw with both
hands, your holding the work with one hand and sawing with the other. No
wonder your not getting good results.
Please replicate the work methods outlined in this thread . as at the
moment your making a rod for your own back.
Even wood workers use a simple holding wood horse. thats a plank of
wood sat 1in thick by 6in wide and 6in long with a bit of 2 by 1 nailed
to one edge, and a similar piece nailed on the otherside on the other
end. You place this with one piece of the 2 by 1 against the bench edge
and push the wood your cutting on top of the 6 by 1 and up against the
other pieceof 2 by 1.
this is a sort of holding device so you can hold the wood your cutting
with one hand and you saw withthother.
The same can be used on metal tho its much harder to use. by nature of
what your cutting.
Metal cutting is easy IF youve set up your bench, the vice and sundry tools.