I have a 5x10' utility trailer which I overloaded foolishly the other day,
carrying fill dirt. We emptied it, and the next time I pulled the trailer,
empty, it didn't pull correctly. It hopped, chirped, and went 'tick tick tick'.

Home it came and today I pulled off the hubs, expecting to see a cracked inner
bearing race. I actually don't see any damage at all, but now that I've got them
off, I may as well replace the bearings and seals.

I'm having trouble pulling the inner bearing races. Is there a trick?

Grant

On Tue, 31 Jul 2007 13:52:08 -0700, Grant Erwin
wrote:

I have a 5x10' utility trailer which I overloaded foolishly the other day,
carrying fill dirt. We emptied it, and the next time I pulled the trailer,
empty, it didn't pull correctly. It hopped, chirped, and went 'tick tick tick'.

Home it came and today I pulled off the hubs, expecting to see a cracked inner
bearing race. I actually don't see any damage at all, but now that I've got them
off, I may as well replace the bearings and seals.

I'm having trouble pulling the inner bearing races. Is there a trick?

Grant

When I packed or replaced boat trailer bearings every spring, I turned
an aluminum mandrel to press or pound out the inner race from the
inboard side of the hub. Still have the mandrel in my toolbox. I
used aluminum because I didn't have any brass of large enough
diameter.

Pounding with a brass drift works too, moving the drift after each
hit. A full-circumference mandrel and press works best because it
eliminates any tilting of the race.

Don Foreman wrote:

On Tue, 31 Jul 2007 13:52:08 -0700, Grant Erwin
wrote:


I have a 5x10' utility trailer which I overloaded foolishly the other day,
carrying fill dirt. We emptied it, and the next time I pulled the trailer,
empty, it didn't pull correctly. It hopped, chirped, and went 'tick tick tick'.

Home it came and today I pulled off the hubs, expecting to see a cracked inner
bearing race. I actually don't see any damage at all, but now that I've got them
off, I may as well replace the bearings and seals.

I'm having trouble pulling the inner bearing races. Is there a trick?

Grant


When I packed or replaced boat trailer bearings every spring, I turned
an aluminum mandrel to press or pound out the inner race from the
inboard side of the hub. Still have the mandrel in my toolbox. I
used aluminum because I didn't have any brass of large enough
diameter.

Pounding with a brass drift works too, moving the drift after each
hit. A full-circumference mandrel and press works best because it
eliminates any tilting of the race.

Yes indeed. Except how do you get a full-diameter mandrel inside? The lip is
inside, so you'd have to turn the mandrel smaller than the ID of the lip, which
doesn't seem to work.

I've done a dodge before where I measured the OD as best I could, then turned a
disc a coupla thou smaller than that diameter. Then I measured the ID as best I
could and milled off two sides of the disc a coupla thou smaller. After
deburring, that would slip inside the tube, inside the piece to press out, then
you can fiddle with it until it sits flat. It doesn't bear everywhere since the
sides are milled off, but it worked for pulling bronze bearings from something I
was working on once. It's a lot of work, though.

Grant

Grant Erwin wrote:

Don Foreman wrote:

On Tue, 31 Jul 2007 13:52:08 -0700, Grant Erwin
wrote:


I have a 5x10' utility trailer which I overloaded foolishly the other day,
carrying fill dirt. We emptied it, and the next time I pulled the trailer,
empty, it didn't pull correctly. It hopped, chirped, and went 'tick tick tick'.

Home it came and today I pulled off the hubs, expecting to see a cracked inner
bearing race. I actually don't see any damage at all, but now that I've got them
off, I may as well replace the bearings and seals.

I'm having trouble pulling the inner bearing races. Is there a trick?

Grant


When I packed or replaced boat trailer bearings every spring, I turned
an aluminum mandrel to press or pound out the inner race from the
inboard side of the hub. Still have the mandrel in my toolbox. I
used aluminum because I didn't have any brass of large enough
diameter.

Pounding with a brass drift works too, moving the drift after each
hit. A full-circumference mandrel and press works best because it
eliminates any tilting of the race.

Yes indeed. Except how do you get a full-diameter mandrel inside? The lip is
inside, so you'd have to turn the mandrel smaller than the ID of the lip, which
doesn't seem to work.

I've done a dodge before where I measured the OD as best I could, then turned a
disc a coupla thou smaller than that diameter. Then I measured the ID as best I
could and milled off two sides of the disc a coupla thou smaller. After
deburring, that would slip inside the tube, inside the piece to press out, then
you can fiddle with it until it sits flat. It doesn't bear everywhere since the
sides are milled off, but it worked for pulling bronze bearings from something I
was working on once. It's a lot of work, though.

Grant

You can get a "loaner" puller set at an Autozone and some other auto
parts stores, just need to leave a deposit. HF sells essentially the
same puller set as well.

Pete C.

On Tue, 31 Jul 2007 14:25:37 -0700, Grant Erwin
wrote:

Don Foreman wrote:

On Tue, 31 Jul 2007 13:52:08 -0700, Grant Erwin
wrote:


I have a 5x10' utility trailer which I overloaded foolishly the other day,
carrying fill dirt. We emptied it, and the next time I pulled the trailer,
empty, it didn't pull correctly. It hopped, chirped, and went 'tick tick tick'.

Home it came and today I pulled off the hubs, expecting to see a cracked inner
bearing race. I actually don't see any damage at all, but now that I've got them
off, I may as well replace the bearings and seals.

I'm having trouble pulling the inner bearing races. Is there a trick?

Grant


When I packed or replaced boat trailer bearings every spring, I turned
an aluminum mandrel to press or pound out the inner race from the
inboard side of the hub. Still have the mandrel in my toolbox. I
used aluminum because I didn't have any brass of large enough
diameter.

Pounding with a brass drift works too, moving the drift after each
hit. A full-circumference mandrel and press works best because it
eliminates any tilting of the race.

Yes indeed. Except how do you get a full-diameter mandrel inside? The lip is
inside, so you'd have to turn the mandrel smaller than the ID of the lip, which
doesn't seem to work.

On my hubs, once they were pulled from the spindle a bit of the inner
race back was exposed to the rear or inboard side. Not much, but
enough. That was true on two boat trailers and a tent camper, YMMV.

On Tue, 31 Jul 2007 13:52:08 -0700, Grant Erwin
wrote:

I have a 5x10' utility trailer which I overloaded foolishly the other day,
carrying fill dirt. We emptied it, and the next time I pulled the trailer,
empty, it didn't pull correctly. It hopped, chirped, and went 'tick tick tick'.

Home it came and today I pulled off the hubs, expecting to see a cracked inner
bearing race. I actually don't see any damage at all, but now that I've got them
off, I may as well replace the bearings and seals.

I'm having trouble pulling the inner bearing races. Is there a trick?


Usually just a simple piece of shaft will allow hammering on an
exposed lip. Just move from one side to the other to work it out.
However a simple trick is to weld a bead on the inside of the race. If
you do it right the race will simply fall out when cooled.

Grant Erwin wrote:
I have a 5x10' utility trailer which I overloaded foolishly the other
day, carrying fill dirt. We emptied it, and the next time I pulled
the trailer, empty, it didn't pull correctly. It hopped, chirped, and
went 'tick tick tick'.
Home it came and today I pulled off the hubs, expecting to see a
cracked inner bearing race. I actually don't see any damage at all,
but now that I've got them off, I may as well replace the bearings
and seals.
I'm having trouble pulling the inner bearing races. Is there a trick?

Grant

I assume from the way you worded that , you mean the race on the spindle ?
Split ring puller in that case , but usually that means the rollers are
there too . Dremel the cage off , score the race deeply (at an angle to the
spindle) and whacking it with a hammer and chisel almost always works . If
you're talking about the inboard bearing/outer race in the wheel , run a
bead of MIG or stick weld around the inside . Should all but fall out . I
use this trick on aluminum motorcycle wheels . You weren't going to re-use
it anyway ...

--

Snag aka OSG #1
'90 Ultra , "Strider"
The road goes on forever ...
none to one to reply

"Wayne Cook" wrote in message
...



Usually just a simple piece of shaft will allow hammering on an
exposed lip. Just move from one side to the other to work it out.
However a simple trick is to weld a bead on the inside of the race. If
you do it right the race will simply fall out when cooled.

Second that on the weld trick. Works a treat.

Shawn

Heat the race with a propane torch. Get behind the race with a sharp air
hammer flat chisel bit. Follow with a blunt, wider chisel. Once you have
it out some, pull it with a 2 jaw puller.
JR
Dweller in the cellar

Grant Erwin wrote:
I have a 5x10' utility trailer which I overloaded foolishly the other day,
carrying fill dirt. We emptied it, and the next time I pulled the
trailer, empty, it didn't pull correctly. It hopped, chirped, and went
'tick tick tick'.

Home it came and today I pulled off the hubs, expecting to see a cracked
inner bearing race. I actually don't see any damage at all, but now that
I've got them off, I may as well replace the bearings and seals.

I'm having trouble pulling the inner bearing races. Is there a trick?

Grant


--
--------------------------------------------------------------
Home Page: http://www.seanet.com/~jasonrnorth
If you're not the lead dog, the view never changes
Doubt yourself, and the real world will eat you alive
The world doesn't revolve around you, it revolves around me
No skeletons in the closet; just decomposing corpses
--------------------------------------------------------------
Dependence is Vulnerability:
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"Open the Pod Bay Doors please, Hal"
"I'm sorry, Dave, I'm afraid I can't do that.."

Grant Erwin wrote:
Don Foreman wrote:

On Tue, 31 Jul 2007 13:52:08 -0700, Grant Erwin
wrote:


I have a 5x10' utility trailer which I overloaded foolishly the other
day,
carrying fill dirt. We emptied it, and the next time I pulled the
trailer, empty, it didn't pull correctly. It hopped, chirped, and
went 'tick tick tick'.

Home it came and today I pulled off the hubs, expecting to see a
cracked inner bearing race. I actually don't see any damage at all,
but now that I've got them off, I may as well replace the bearings
and seals.

I'm having trouble pulling the inner bearing races. Is there a trick?

Grant


When I packed or replaced boat trailer bearings every spring, I turned
an aluminum mandrel to press or pound out the inner race from the
inboard side of the hub. Still have the mandrel in my toolbox. I
used aluminum because I didn't have any brass of large enough
diameter.

Pounding with a brass drift works too, moving the drift after each
hit. A full-circumference mandrel and press works best because it
eliminates any tilting of the race.

Yes indeed. Except how do you get a full-diameter mandrel inside? The
lip is inside, so you'd have to turn the mandrel smaller than the ID of
the lip, which doesn't seem to work.

On most cast hubs, that lip was two slight indentations 180-deg apart.
Just enough to let you get a punch behind the very edge of the race.

http://tinyurl.com/2xjxa7 and dispense with this stuff.
Unless you REALLY enjoy it, of course

gary





I have a 5x10' utility trailer which I overloaded foolishly the other day,
carrying fill dirt. We emptied it, and the next time I pulled the trailer,
empty, it didn't pull correctly. It hopped, chirped, and went 'tick tick tick'.

Home it came and today I pulled off the hubs, expecting to see a cracked inner
bearing race. I actually don't see any damage at all, but now that I've got them
off, I may as well replace the bearings and seals.

I'm having trouble pulling the inner bearing races. Is there a trick?