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Rex Rex is offline
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Default replacing bearings on small trailer hubs?

Grant Erwin wrote:
Don Foreman wrote:

On Tue, 31 Jul 2007 13:52:08 -0700, Grant Erwin
wrote:


I have a 5x10' utility trailer which I overloaded foolishly the other
day,
carrying fill dirt. We emptied it, and the next time I pulled the
trailer, empty, it didn't pull correctly. It hopped, chirped, and
went 'tick tick tick'.

Home it came and today I pulled off the hubs, expecting to see a
cracked inner bearing race. I actually don't see any damage at all,
but now that I've got them off, I may as well replace the bearings
and seals.

I'm having trouble pulling the inner bearing races. Is there a trick?

Grant



When I packed or replaced boat trailer bearings every spring, I turned
an aluminum mandrel to press or pound out the inner race from the
inboard side of the hub. Still have the mandrel in my toolbox. I
used aluminum because I didn't have any brass of large enough
diameter.

Pounding with a brass drift works too, moving the drift after each
hit. A full-circumference mandrel and press works best because it
eliminates any tilting of the race.


Yes indeed. Except how do you get a full-diameter mandrel inside? The
lip is inside, so you'd have to turn the mandrel smaller than the ID of
the lip, which doesn't seem to work.


On most cast hubs, that lip was two slight indentations 180-deg apart.
Just enough to let you get a punch behind the very edge of the race.