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Metalworking (rec.crafts.metalworking) Discuss various aspects of working with metal, such as machining, welding, metal joining, screwing, casting, hardening/tempering, blacksmithing/forging, spinning and hammer work, sheet metal work. |
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Welch 1402 advice Please
Hello, I have just bought a Welch 1402 second hand which I want to use
to degas silicone and urethane/resin. 1) Where do you put the oil? (crazy question I know) 2) what oil is acceptable to use I have some Robinair direct drive oil and in a thread I researched somebody mentioned curt lesker and company Tv-019 I want as good a vacuum as I can get without recking the pump, but I am not sure I want to pay Welch Duo seal oil prices. 3) The inlet and outlet ports do not have barbs screwed in does anybody know of a source for 13/16th 20thread/in barbs (that dont cost welch prices -60 bucks a piece) Any other advice/sources would be sincerely appreciated. Thanks Steve |
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Welch 1402 advice Please
Check the group archives with google for a fairly recent (6 months, maybe)
thread about a Welch 1405 or 1402 in the subject line. Someone was asking about an inlet chamber in one post. Those threads don't sound common for any types of fittings that I'm familiar with, but check around at auto parts stores, plumbing places, or appliance/HVAC parts suppliers and maybe you'll find a fitting that you can adapt barbs to. Maybe you've already reviewed the Welch site, but I think there were some application/operation PDF files about general operating procedures for their pumps. WB ................ "Scorsi" wrote in message om... Hello, I have just bought a Welch 1402 second hand which I want to use to degas silicone and urethane/resin. 1) Where do you put the oil? (crazy question I know) 2) what oil is acceptable to use I have some Robinair direct drive oil and in a thread I researched somebody mentioned curt lesker and company Tv-019 I want as good a vacuum as I can get without recking the pump, but I am not sure I want to pay Welch Duo seal oil prices. 3) The inlet and outlet ports do not have barbs screwed in does anybody know of a source for 13/16th 20thread/in barbs (that dont cost welch prices -60 bucks a piece) Any other advice/sources would be sincerely appreciated. Thanks Steve |
#3
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Welch 1402 advice Please
In article , Scorsi says...
Hello, I have just bought a Welch 1402 second hand which I want to use to degas silicone and urethane/resin. 1) Where do you put the oil? (crazy question I know) In the exhaust port. 2) what oil is acceptable to use I have some Robinair direct drive oil and in a thread I researched somebody mentioned curt lesker and company Tv-019 I want as good a vacuum as I can get without recking the pump, but I am not sure I want to pay Welch Duo seal oil prices. Check the vapor pressure of teh oil you have, if it is for direct drive vacuum pumps it should work fine. I run the Leybold direct drive oil in belt driven pumps and it works fine. The belt drive ones run at a lower speed so if the oil will stand up to direct drives it will work in a welch pump. 3) The inlet and outlet ports do not have barbs screwed in does anybody know of a source for 13/16th 20thread/in barbs (that dont cost welch prices -60 bucks a piece) That's a toughie. If you cannot find one from a surplus pump place, you could thread a piece of brass tubing (there *may* be an NPT size that is close in OD) to be 20 tpi and then seal with something like epoxy. Jim ================================================== please reply to: JRR(zero) at yktvmv (dot) vnet (dot) ibm (dot) com ================================================== |
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Welch 1402 advice Please
Hello, I have just bought a Welch 1402 second hand which I want to use
to degas silicone and urethane/resin. 1) Where do you put the oil? (crazy question I know) Pour it into the exhaust port. 2) what oil is acceptable to use I have some Robinair direct drive oil and in a thread I researched somebody mentioned curt lesker and company Tv-019 I want as good a vacuum as I can get without recking the pump, but I am not sure I want to pay Welch Duo seal oil prices. 3) The inlet and outlet ports do not have barbs screwed in does anybody know of a source for 13/16th 20thread/in barbs (that dont cost welch prices -60 bucks a piece) www.duniway.com has the nipples for $20 each. Their prices on oil and other stuff are usually very good; I've used a lot of their conflat flange copper gaskets over the years, and they sell all the parts to rebuild your pump when you need to. -- Regards, Carl Ijames carl.ijames at verizon.net |
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Welch 1402 advice Please
In article , Carl Ijames says...
www.duniway.com has the nipples for $20 each. Their prices on oil and other stuff are usually very good; I've used a lot of their conflat flange copper gaskets over the years, and they sell all the parts to rebuild your pump when you need to. Ooh. Forgot those folks. They're the ones keeping my vintage veeco leak checker running. Very good service. Jim ================================================== please reply to: JRR(zero) at yktvmv (dot) vnet (dot) ibm (dot) com ================================================== |
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Welch 1402 advice Please
Someone else may correct me, but I think that any oil will be good
enough for your application. That is I don't think you will notice the difference between a 5 mm hg vacuum and a 5 micron hg vacuum for degassing resins. Dan (Scorsi) wrote in message Hello, I have just bought a Welch 1402 second hand which I want to use to degas silicone and urethane/resin. 2) what oil is acceptable to use I have some Robinair direct drive oil and in a thread I researched somebody mentioned curt lesker and company Tv-019 I want as good a vacuum as I can get without recking the pump, but I am not sure I want to pay Welch Duo seal oil prices. Any other advice/sources would be sincerely appreciated. Thanks Steve |
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Welch 1402 advice Please
In article , Dan Caster says...
Someone else may correct me, but I think that any oil will be good enough for your application. That is I don't think you will notice the difference between a 5 mm hg vacuum and a 5 micron hg vacuum for degassing resins. If a motor oil has higher vapor pressure constituents those will be pumped away, possibly compromising the lubrication qualities of the oil. Oils in vacuum pumps have to seal, they have to have appropriate vapor pressures for teh application, and they have to lubricate - all of these at the operating temperature of the pump, and without degrading over time. If I were him I would charge the pump once with a reasonable quality vacuuum pump oil, and run it with the gas ballast valve open as a rule, because he will be pumping a fair amount of water vapor and also whatever comes out of his epoxy resin, which is most likely condensible. Jim ================================================== please reply to: JRR(zero) at yktvmv (dot) vnet (dot) ibm (dot) com ================================================== |
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Welch 1402 advice Please
Jim has forgotten more about vacuum systems than I have ever known.
But I can remember reading about using an ordinary motor oil ( probably non-detergent and I am pretty sure it was a single grade oil like SAE 30 ) in a vacuum pump. The article said the brand and grade, but since I probably read it before Jim was born, I can not remember the details. Dan jim rozen wrote in message ... In article , Dan Caster says... Someone else may correct me, but I think that any oil will be good enough for your application. That is I don't think you will notice the difference between a 5 mm hg vacuum and a 5 micron hg vacuum for degassing resins. If a motor oil has higher vapor pressure constituents those will be pumped away, possibly compromising the lubrication qualities of the oil. Oils in vacuum pumps have to seal, they have to have appropriate vapor pressures for teh application, and they have to lubricate - all of these at the operating temperature of the pump, and without degrading over time. If I were him I would charge the pump once with a reasonable quality vacuuum pump oil, and run it with the gas ballast valve open as a rule, because he will be pumping a fair amount of water vapor and also whatever comes out of his epoxy resin, which is most likely condensible. Jim ================================================== please reply to: JRR(zero) at yktvmv (dot) vnet (dot) ibm (dot) com ================================================== |
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Welch 1402 advice Please
In article , Dan Caster says...
probably non-detergent and I am pretty sure it was a single grade oil like SAE 30 ) in a vacuum pump. Many of the older piston pumps used straight-weight motor oil. Actually a check of a leybold, alcatel or pfeiffer vaccum site might pin down the answer to this question. Jim ================================================== please reply to: JRR(zero) at yktvmv (dot) vnet (dot) ibm (dot) com ================================================== |
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Welch 1402 advice Please
I know people who have used 10w30 mobil 1 but they didn't have good
gauges so I don't know what base pressure they got. For degassing urethane it would definitely be good enough. Regular motor oils have additives to get the multiweight rating so you would want a straight sae 30, but the synthetics don't need additives for the 10w rating. I would definitely expect the synthetic oil to have fewer volatile components. The standard distilled/refined mineral oil for direct drive pumps usually has a 19 in the name, like the TV019 someone else mentioned, or Inland 19, or Invoil 19, etc. This is advertised as either the same as or one step "better" oil than the duoseal oil used in lower speed belt drive pumps, which works well in either direct drive or belt drive pumps. I'm sure you can find a data sheet somewhere online, to get a viscosity rating, which you can then compare to the motor oil scale to see if 30 weight is really the best. Oh, heck, the Lakers just didled away a lead and went to overtime so hang on a sec - okay, I'm back. From www.sisweb.com (another good source of vacuum stuff), they give viscosity specs on inland 19 of 54 cst (251 SUS) at 40 deg C and 8.1 cst (52.7 SUS) at 100 deg C. Normal pump operating temps are in the warm to just too hot to touch range, or 40-70 deg C. I found http://www.engineeringtoolbox.com/21_397.html, which gives viscosities of 9.6-12.9 cst at 99 deg C for SAE 30 and 5.7-9.6 cst at 99 deg C for SAE 20 motor oil, so SAE 30 may be just a tick on the thick side but given it's availability I wouldn't hesitate to try it. I also found a listing for Mobil 1 10W30 as 59 cst at 40 and 10 at 100 deg C, so it's on the thin side of 30 weights and should work okay. Well, the Lakers managed to get the win so I'll stop typing :-). -- Regards, Carl Ijames carl.ijames at verizon.net |
#11
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Welch 1402 advice Please
I did a little googling and found http://www.beckerpumps.com/tdl.htm
. Becker does not make high vacuum pump, but does say their pumps operate at 0.4 Torr. So not too bad and certainly good enough for degassing. Dan jim rozen wrote in message ... In article , Dan Caster says... probably non-detergent and I am pretty sure it was a single grade oil like SAE 30 ) in a vacuum pump. Many of the older piston pumps used straight-weight motor oil. Actually a check of a leybold, alcatel or pfeiffer vaccum site might pin down the answer to this question. Jim ================================================== please reply to: JRR(zero) at yktvmv (dot) vnet (dot) ibm (dot) com ================================================== |
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Welch 1402 advice Please
I think I goofed the URL for the info on oils. It is
http://www.beckerpumps.com/td1.htm The last bit is Tee Dee One for tech doc one. At the very end is a list of various companies and the oil Becker recommends. Dan jim rozen wrote in message Many of the older piston pumps used straight-weight motor oil. Actually a check of a leybold, alcatel or pfeiffer vaccum site might pin down the answer to this question. Jim ================================================== please reply to: JRR(zero) at yktvmv (dot) vnet (dot) ibm (dot) com ================================================== |
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Welch 1402 advice Please
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#14
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Welch 1402 advice Please
In article ,
Stan Schaefer wrote: [ ... ] One thing I'm setting up is a reservoir tank set, I'll pump those down with the inlet shut off, then I can get instant vacuum on my project when I open the inlet ball valve. I'm thinking of using it on stuff like small vacuum forming frames and epoxy degassing bell jars where you need vacuum pronto and can't wait for pump down. I've got a set of tanks of about 50 liters total volume, that should be enough for what I want to do. That sounds useful -- but be careful. Tanks made for pressure may not be capable of handling a vacuum well. Somewhere out there there is a photo that someone posted a link to here a few years ago. It was a tank car -- for natural gas, I think -- which had been undergoing a steam cleaning when quitting time came. Someone just shut the valves on it, while it was still loaded with steam, and went home. The steam condensed, making a partial vacuum, and the tank car crumpled. from the pressure differential. Enjoy, DoN. -- Email: | Voice (all times): (703) 938-4564 (too) near Washington D.C. | http://www.d-and-d.com/dnichols/DoN.html --- Black Holes are where God is dividing by zero --- |
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