Home |
Search |
Today's Posts |
![]() |
|
Metalworking (rec.crafts.metalworking) Discuss various aspects of working with metal, such as machining, welding, metal joining, screwing, casting, hardening/tempering, blacksmithing/forging, spinning and hammer work, sheet metal work. |
|
LinkBack | Thread Tools | Display Modes |
#12
![]()
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
|
|||
|
|||
![]()
On Sat, 08 Apr 2006 21:10:12 GMT, Nick Hull
wrote: In article , "Newshound" wrote: Or a gas torch (not oxy acetylene!) if you are away from power. Have tried starting fluid, fresh gasoline, propane, and carb cleaner (usually works best!). No firing on any. Greetings Nick, I had a similar problem with a Mazda GLC years ago. Even though there was plenty of spark in air the thing wouldn't run. When the timing was severly retarded the car would run. Since the resistance between the sparkplug electrodes rises as the density of the ar/fuel mixture rises it finally occurred to me to look for a short to ground that happened only when the timing was correct. It turned out to be a bad rotor. It was shorting to ground through the distributer shaft. Replacing the rotor fixed the problem. When a timing light was used while the timing was retarded it would flash. As the distributer was turned the timing light would cease firing and the car would die. So look at the system from the coil to the plug. Cheers, Eric r Snow |
Thread Tools | Search this Thread |
Display Modes | |
|
|
![]() |
||||
Thread | Forum | |||
Fresh Start vs. Sta-bil | Home Repair | |||
RPC run capacitors | Metalworking | |||
Sony Vega 32" won't start | Electronics Repair | |||
Tecumseh HMSK-80 Hard to start, need help | Home Repair |