Hi all

Need some demolition advice. Neighbor burned out his Dewalt cordless
(don't know how, but it's toast) so I thought I'd salvage the finger
chuck. It's all held together with Torx screws, but I've got the right
bits. The problem is once you get the case off, the drill was clearly
built from back to front. So how is the chuck held on? I can see a hex
shaped socket in the base of the chuck, but I totally wasted an Allen
key trying to undo it. Did they swage it in after tightening? Whatever,
how should I separate the chuck from the dead gearbox and motor?

Jim

Jim McGill wrote:

Hi all

Need some demolition advice. Neighbor burned out his Dewalt cordless
(don't know how, but it's toast) so I thought I'd salvage the finger
chuck. It's all held together with Torx screws, but I've got the right
bits. The problem is once you get the case off, the drill was clearly
built from back to front. So how is the chuck held on? I can see a hex
shaped socket in the base of the chuck, but I totally wasted an Allen
key trying to undo it. Did they swage it in after tightening? Whatever,
how should I separate the chuck from the dead gearbox and motor?

Jim


Screws at the base of cordless drill chucks are normally left hand threads!

GWE

On the day of Wed, 15 Mar 2006 08:41:48 -0800...
Jim McGill
typed these letters:

Hi all

Need some demolition advice. Neighbor burned out his Dewalt cordless
(don't know how, but it's toast) so I thought I'd salvage the finger
chuck. It's all held together with Torx screws, but I've got the right
bits. The problem is once you get the case off, the drill was clearly
built from back to front. So how is the chuck held on? I can see a hex
shaped socket in the base of the chuck, but I totally wasted an Allen
key trying to undo it. Did they swage it in after tightening? Whatever,
how should I separate the chuck from the dead gearbox and motor?

Jim


Yep... That 's whats holds it on...
If the socket head screw is goofed up you probably can open up the
chuck and use another drill to drill the head off of the socket head
screw. You may want to lock the chuck in a vice for this purpose.

Devonshire

On the day of Wed, 15 Mar 2006 17:16:30 GMT...
(Devonshire)
typed these letters:

Yep... That 's whats holds it on...
If the socket head screw is goofed up you probably can open up the
chuck and use another drill to drill the head off of the socket head
screw. You may want to lock the chuck in a vice for this purpose.

Devonshire


I forgot... And the chuck itself is probably threaded and screwed
onto the shaft as well as having the socked head screw holding in in
place.

Devonshire

Grant Erwin wrote:
Jim McGill wrote:

Hi all

Need some demolition advice. Neighbor burned out his Dewalt cordless
(don't know how, but it's toast) so I thought I'd salvage the finger
chuck. It's all held together with Torx screws, but I've got the right
bits. The problem is once you get the case off, the drill was clearly
built from back to front. So how is the chuck held on? I can see a hex
shaped socket in the base of the chuck, but I totally wasted an Allen
key trying to undo it. Did they swage it in after tightening?
Whatever, how should I separate the chuck from the dead gearbox and
motor?

Jim


Screws at the base of cordless drill chucks are normally left hand threads!

GWE


Just be glad it's only the drill chuck that's giving you problems Jim,
you could have been born with a problem like Fred's:

******************************************

The cock of a fellow named Fred
Was adorned with a spiralized head.
When at last he laid eyes,
On a **** the right size,
He was foiled by a left-handed thread!

******************************************


Jeff (Who loves limericks like that one.

More of them here.....)

http://home.comcast.net/%7Ejwisnia18...limericks.html

--
Jeffry Wisnia

(W1BSV + Brass Rat '57 EE)

"Truth exists; only falsehood has to be invented."

Jim McGill wrote:
Hi all

Need some demolition advice. Neighbor burned out his Dewalt cordless
(don't know how, but it's toast) so I thought I'd salvage the finger
chuck. It's all held together with Torx screws, but I've got the right
bits. The problem is once you get the case off, the drill was clearly
built from back to front. So how is the chuck held on? I can see a hex
shaped socket in the base of the chuck, but I totally wasted an Allen
key trying to undo it. Did they swage it in after tightening? Whatever,
how should I separate the chuck from the dead gearbox and motor?

Jim

You do know it's a LEFT hand thread don't you??
...lew...

Jeff

Or the fellow named Kent
Who's cock was so long that it bent.
To save himself trouble,
He folded it double.
Instead of coming, he went.

PS Yes, I knew the bolt was left hand thread. I think what I probably
need it a tougher allen wrench than my wimpy off shore ones.

Jim

Jim McGill wrote:

snip Yes, I knew the bolt was left hand thread. I think what I probably
need it a tougher allen wrench than my wimpy off shore ones.

Time to buy Bondhus. Really.

When you have the screw removed from down the throat, chuck the short end of a
big hex key and give the other end a smart smack to crack the threads open. I
believe the threads that hold the chuck on are RH, probably 3/8-24, but I could
really be wrong about this and you will likely only get one chance. The guy who
taught me this move worked at Tool Town in Interbay; you could call them in the
morning right after they open (when the guys are just sitting there drinking
coffee) and ask them how to remove a keyless chuck from a cordless drill.

Scrounged chucks can be used for a lot of things. If you make an adapter, you
can fit a chuck over the end of the ram on a press, to hold pins vertically, for
example.

GWE

The manual describes how to remove the chuck. You can download it off
Dewalt's web page. If I remember correctly, it says to insert the allen key
so that it is seated in the socket, tighten the chuck, then hit it with a
hammer (ie. hit the exposed part of the allen key that is perpendicular to
the shaft as if to make it spin).

"Jim McGill" wrote in message
...
Hi all

Need some demolition advice. Neighbor burned out his Dewalt cordless
(don't know how, but it's toast) so I thought I'd salvage the finger
chuck. It's all held together with Torx screws, but I've got the right
bits. The problem is once you get the case off, the drill was clearly
built from back to front. So how is the chuck held on? I can see a hex
shaped socket in the base of the chuck, but I totally wasted an Allen key
trying to undo it. Did they swage it in after tightening? Whatever, how
should I separate the chuck from the dead gearbox and motor?

Jim

Or the fellow named Kent
Who's cock was so long that it bent.
To save himself trouble,
He folded it double.
Instead of coming, he went.

PS Yes, I knew the bolt was left hand thread. I think what I probably
need it a tougher allen wrench than my wimpy off shore ones.

Jim

Whose cock, you mean. Who's is a contraction of who is.

"Who is cock" just doesn't make sense, unless you are describing, say,
Cliff or Gunner.

--
Ted Bennett

On Wed, 15 Mar 2006 08:41:48 -0800, Jim McGill
wrote:

Need some demolition advice. Neighbor burned out his Dewalt cordless
(don't know how, but it's toast) so I thought I'd salvage the finger
chuck. It's all held together with Torx screws, but I've got the right
bits. The problem is once you get the case off, the drill was clearly
built from back to front. So how is the chuck held on? I can see a hex
shaped socket in the base of the chuck, but I totally wasted an Allen
key trying to undo it. Did they swage it in after tightening? Whatever,
how should I separate the chuck from the dead gearbox and motor?

Aside from the Left-Hand Thread chuck lock screw issue that's
already been trampled to death, you can get all the internal parts to
repair the drill at a reasonable price from DeWalt - it's the repair
labor that kills if you have them repair it. They are well designed
so you can fix them yourself with minimum fuss.

I've beaten the hell out of an 18-Volt 4-Pack system for about 15
years, and the only expenses have been batteries, rubber feet for the
DW-911 radio, a motor for the drill (melted the brush-holders) and one
trigger for the drill.

When you consider that I'm swinging 1" and 1-1/4" Selfeed and Auger
bits and 5/8" x 72" bell-hanger bits with a cordless drill, that ain't
too bad...

-- Bruce --

--
Bruce L. Bergman, Woodland Hills (Los Angeles) CA - Desktop
Electrician for Westend Electric - CA726700
5737 Kanan Rd. #359, Agoura CA 91301 (818) 889-9545
Spamtrapped address: Remove the python and the invalid, and use a net.

Ted Bennett wrote:

Or the fellow named Kent
Who's cock was so long that it bent.
To save himself trouble,
He folded it double.
Instead of coming, he went.

PS Yes, I knew the bolt was left hand thread. I think what I probably
need it a tougher allen wrench than my wimpy off shore ones.

Jim


Whose cock, you mean. Who's is a contraction of who is.

"Who is cock" just doesn't make sense, unless you are describing, say,
Cliff or Gunner.


As long as you're going to pick on him, you could have added that his
first line didn't "scan" right. The way I heard it was:

There was a young man in from Kent

**************************************************

And, while totally off topic, here are the "rules" for what makes a
limerick, something they didn't teach us in trade school:

*************************

What is a Limerick?

To be a Limerick, a verse MUST have:
Five lines
Lines one, two, and five MUST each have exactly three metric feet
Lines three and four MUST each have exactly two metric feet

The metric feet MUST be anapests ( da da DUM ) although the leading foot
of each line may be an iamb ( da DUM) and the last foot of each line may
have a trailing unaccented syllable ( da da DUM da). The classic
Limerick is consistent in the use of iambs and trailing unaccented
syllables, but this is not manditory in recreational Limericks.

Lines one, two, and five MUST rhyme.
Lines three and four MUST rhyme.
A good Limerick will have a clever, unanticipated punch line as line five.
A good Limerick will not be insipid or pointless.
A good Limerick often has puns, word play, eccentric spelling, or some
other witty feature.

Any nonsense poem that lacks five lines, thirteen metric feet, or the
aabba rhyme pattern is simply not a Limerick. It might be a sing-song
or a la-de-da, but it's not a Limerick.



This is a Limerick, sound it out:

There WAS a young GIRL from MO-bile,
Whose HY-men was HAR-der than STEEL.
To SCORE her first THRILL,
Took a RIGHT ang-le DRILL,
With a FIVE-eights inch WIDE dia-mond WHEEL.


(If you can't sound out the da-DUMs and da-da-DUMs, trash it.)

Jeff

--
Jeffry Wisnia

(W1BSV + Brass Rat '57 EE)

"Truth exists; only falsehood has to be invented."