I recently scored a decent SB heavy 10, complete but no tooling. I'm
probably going to spring for a reasonable set of used stuff, maybe a
KRF omnipost as well. On a couple occasions I've read of new chucks
being trued on the lathe on which they'll be used, I was wondering at
what skill levels or for which applications the need for chucks set up
like that starts to become apparent.

Also, if anyone has hints/tricks that might be of help while I'm
cleaning off the crud and tightening it up, I'd really appreciate it.

Thanks,

Gregm

Greg:

I have proven to myself time & time again that I must walk before I can
crawl. My journey started with an 8" craftsman "table saw" to the 3hp
Powermatic 66. With several models between those two.

Ultimately it's likely you'll spend more on tooling than on the machinery.
But getting there is what's fun.

I nearly purchased an omnipost (I am susceptible to marketing, particularly
if it contains the words "professional" or "industrial"). However, I
purchased the import AXA toolpost set, the Aloris clone. My steps this time
were - Home made AL block tool post for my Taig Lathe, a 4-tool turret tool
post for the Dalton 6 and eventually the AXA set. I still have the AXA set,
I've purchased more tool holders - when they're on sale they're fairly
inexpensive, and I've made my own. They go on sale fairly frequently. And
they are the subject of much bandwidth here, the piston -vs- wedge issues
come up regularly.

Anyway, my personality fits the quick change tool post. Being able to switch
at will between facing, chamfer, turning, parting, and boring - all of these
tools ready to cut, allow me to produce parts significantly faster. And that
provides a sense of satisfaction to me.

If your chuck is mounted on a back plate, it is standard practice to true
the back plate on the lathe it will be used. It was one of my first
operations for my South Bend 10K, so skill level is moderate, patience is a
virtue.

One of the best things you can do is to lurk here. The signal to noise ratio
is usually fairly good, and there is always a good mix of subjects.

Good luck.

"Greg Menke" wrote in message
...

I recently scored a decent SB heavy 10, complete but no tooling. I'm
probably going to spring for a reasonable set of used stuff, maybe a
KRF omnipost as well. On a couple occasions I've read of new chucks
being trued on the lathe on which they'll be used, I was wondering at
what skill levels or for which applications the need for chucks set up
like that starts to become apparent.

Also, if anyone has hints/tricks that might be of help while I'm
cleaning off the crud and tightening it up, I'd really appreciate it.

Thanks,

Gregm

"John Hofstad-Parkhill" writes:

Greg:

I have proven to myself time & time again that I must walk before I can
crawl. My journey started with an 8" craftsman "table saw" to the 3hp
Powermatic 66. With several models between those two.

Ultimately it's likely you'll spend more on tooling than on the machinery.
But getting there is what's fun.

I'm graduating from an Atlas 6", and learned something about how much
better a heavier lathe is while working on my dad's SB 9. I got a
good price for my SB, intendending to make up the balance with the
tooling.


I nearly purchased an omnipost (I am susceptible to marketing, particularly
if it contains the words "professional" or "industrial"). However, I
purchased the import AXA toolpost set, the Aloris clone. My steps this time
were - Home made AL block tool post for my Taig Lathe, a 4-tool turret tool
post for the Dalton 6 and eventually the AXA set. I still have the AXA set,
I've purchased more tool holders - when they're on sale they're fairly
inexpensive, and I've made my own. They go on sale fairly frequently. And
they are the subject of much bandwidth here, the piston -vs- wedge issues
come up regularly.

I bought my dad the KRF Omnipost for christmas and its a Vast
improvement over the lantern holder. I'm sure there are tradeoffs
with the Omnipost, but I'm sure not going to stick only with the
lantern when the Omnipost is reasonably priced for a complete kit.


If your chuck is mounted on a back plate, it is standard practice to true
the back plate on the lathe it will be used. It was one of my first
operations for my South Bend 10K, so skill level is moderate, patience is a
virtue.

One of the best things you can do is to lurk here. The signal to noise ratio
is usually fairly good, and there is always a good mix of subjects.


Yep.

Gregm

They go on sale fairly frequently.

http://www.use-enco.com/CGI/INSRIT?PMAKA=BR505-
2253&PMPANO=0245627&PMKANO=16&PMKBNO=322&PMPAGE=28 &PARTPG=INLMPI

or

http://tinyurl.com/22qfv

if you prefer. I think that beats even HF for price.

http://www.use-enco.com/CGI/INLMPI?P...=322&PMPAGE=28

lists all the sizes, and I note that their wedge-type is
also on sale.

I haven't done much with mine yet (I got the 200 series)
but I'm tickled to death that I don't have to use the
lantern post I have for my lathe...

--Glenn Lyford

In article , Greg Menke says...


I recently scored a decent SB heavy 10, complete but no tooling. I'm
probably going to spring for a reasonable set of used stuff, maybe a
KRF omnipost as well. On a couple occasions I've read of new chucks
being trued on the lathe on which they'll be used, I was wondering at
what skill levels or for which applications the need for chucks set up
like that starts to become apparent.

Also, if anyone has hints/tricks that might be of help while I'm
cleaning off the crud and tightening it up, I'd really appreciate it.

Backplates for chucks are often skim-cut on the machine they
will be used for. There should be zero runout on a backplate,
if there is, a quick skim cut will fix it right up.

The 10L is one of the best small lathes because it will accept
5C tooling. Get a collet setup for your machine and start
hunting for good used hardinge 5C collets.

Best of luck on your new toy!

Jim

==================================================
please reply to:
JRR(zero) at yktvmv (dot) vnet (dot) ibm (dot) com
==================================================

jim rozen writes:

In article , Greg Menke says...


I recently scored a decent SB heavy 10, complete but no tooling. I'm
probably going to spring for a reasonable set of used stuff, maybe a
KRF omnipost as well. On a couple occasions I've read of new chucks
being trued on the lathe on which they'll be used, I was wondering at
what skill levels or for which applications the need for chucks set up
like that starts to become apparent.

Also, if anyone has hints/tricks that might be of help while I'm
cleaning off the crud and tightening it up, I'd really appreciate it.

Backplates for chucks are often skim-cut on the machine they
will be used for. There should be zero runout on a backplate,
if there is, a quick skim cut will fix it right up.

The 10L is one of the best small lathes because it will accept
5C tooling. Get a collet setup for your machine and start
hunting for good used hardinge 5C collets.

Best of luck on your new toy!

Jim

Thanks! I'm picking it up Saturday. If I time it right, it'll be
snowing.

Gregm

jim rozen wrote:
In article , Greg Menke says...


I recently scored a decent SB heavy 10, complete but no tooling. I'm
probably going to spring for a reasonable set of used stuff, maybe a
KRF omnipost as well. On a couple occasions I've read of new chucks
being trued on the lathe on which they'll be used, I was wondering at
what skill levels or for which applications the need for chucks set
up like that starts to become apparent.

Also, if anyone has hints/tricks that might be of help while I'm
cleaning off the crud and tightening it up, I'd really appreciate it.

Backplates for chucks are often skim-cut on the machine they
will be used for. There should be zero runout on a backplate,
if there is, a quick skim cut will fix it right up.

The 10L is one of the best small lathes because it will accept
5C tooling. Get a collet setup for your machine and start
hunting for good used hardinge 5C collets.

Best of luck on your new toy!

Jim

I saw a nice 10L with a short bed go for 500 today, including a quick collet
drawbar. I picked up 4 or 5 hardinge collets for $10.

"ATP" writes:

jim rozen wrote:
In article , Greg Menke says...


I recently scored a decent SB heavy 10, complete but no tooling. I'm
probably going to spring for a reasonable set of used stuff, maybe a
KRF omnipost as well. On a couple occasions I've read of new chucks
being trued on the lathe on which they'll be used, I was wondering at
what skill levels or for which applications the need for chucks set
up like that starts to become apparent.

Also, if anyone has hints/tricks that might be of help while I'm
cleaning off the crud and tightening it up, I'd really appreciate it.

Backplates for chucks are often skim-cut on the machine they
will be used for. There should be zero runout on a backplate,
if there is, a quick skim cut will fix it right up.

The 10L is one of the best small lathes because it will accept
5C tooling. Get a collet setup for your machine and start
hunting for good used hardinge 5C collets.

Best of luck on your new toy!

Jim

I saw a nice 10L with a short bed go for 500 today, including a quick collet
drawbar. I picked up 4 or 5 hardinge collets for $10.

I either got a great deal or what I paid for, depending on the ways
and the feeds. Its a gamble, we'll see how it turns out on Saturday.
From the photos it still looks good. Theres a road-trip to Plaza
Machinery coming up in a month or two, maybe I'll find some fun stuff
up there. btw; how heavy is a 10L?

Gregm

In article , Greg Menke says...

I either got a great deal or what I paid for, depending on the ways
and the feeds. Its a gamble, we'll see how it turns out on Saturday.
From the photos it still looks good. Theres a road-trip to Plaza
Machinery coming up in a month or two, maybe I'll find some fun stuff
up there. btw; how heavy is a 10L?

Even if the ways are badly worn those machines can still be
a workhorse. They're heavy enough that if you need to move
them very far at your end you should consider dismantling
into pieces.

At the dealer you can probably get them to load with a fork
truck. I moved mine in on a trailer, it had been spiked to
some 4X4s and placed on the trailer with a fork truck. At
my end we simply upended the trailer and slid it off. I
dismanted at this point to take it down the cellar stairs.

Those machines came in three flavors, the older ones with the
cast iron base, and legs on the tailstock end. Then they
had the semi-circular pipe leg ones, and then the most recent
sheet metal cabinet ones.

If this is a cast iron base one, you the motor base is very,
very heavy. Don't try to move these by yourself without
taking them apart, and even then don't try to move the base
by itself, alone.

Jim

==================================================
please reply to:
JRR(zero) at yktvmv (dot) vnet (dot) ibm (dot) com
==================================================

Greg Menke wrote:
"ATP" writes:

jim rozen wrote:
In article , Greg Menke says...


I recently scored a decent SB heavy 10, complete but no tooling.
I'm probably going to spring for a reasonable set of used stuff,
maybe a KRF omnipost as well. On a couple occasions I've read of
new chucks being trued on the lathe on which they'll be used, I
was wondering at what skill levels or for which applications the
need for chucks set up like that starts to become apparent.

Also, if anyone has hints/tricks that might be of help while I'm
cleaning off the crud and tightening it up, I'd really appreciate
it.

Backplates for chucks are often skim-cut on the machine they
will be used for. There should be zero runout on a backplate,
if there is, a quick skim cut will fix it right up.

The 10L is one of the best small lathes because it will accept
5C tooling. Get a collet setup for your machine and start
hunting for good used hardinge 5C collets.

Best of luck on your new toy!

Jim

I saw a nice 10L with a short bed go for 500 today, including a
quick collet drawbar. I picked up 4 or 5 hardinge collets for $10.

I either got a great deal or what I paid for, depending on the ways
and the feeds. Its a gamble, we'll see how it turns out on Saturday.
From the photos it still looks good. Theres a road-trip to Plaza
Machinery coming up in a month or two, maybe I'll find some fun stuff
up there. btw; how heavy is a 10L?

Gregm

I have the sheet metal cabinet base. I used a dolly and a come-along to
slide it off a landscape trailer and roll it into my garage. The
southbendlathe group on yahoo is a great resource.