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Metalworking (rec.crafts.metalworking) Discuss various aspects of working with metal, such as machining, welding, metal joining, screwing, casting, hardening/tempering, blacksmithing/forging, spinning and hammer work, sheet metal work. |
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#1
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking,alt.home.repair
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Drill leaks electricity to case
In article 8f_Kf.3814$6H4.366
@fe28.usenetserver.com, ignoramus3408 @NOSPAM.3408.invalid says... I have this Black and Decker 450 RPM drill: When plugged into a GFCI outlet, it leaks electricity to ground and pops the GFCI breaker. My question is, what is the most likely culprit and how to approach repair of it. It trips GFCI outlets; repair it or cut the cord off and throw it away. If you need to ask how to repair it ... cut the cord off and throw it away. |
#2
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking,alt.home.repair
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Drill leaks electricity to case
"Ignoramus15109"wrote: (clip) I would like to know the reasoning behind your opinion (that if I have to ask how to fix it, I should throw it away (clip) ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ I will answer for Mike. There was something about the tone of your original post that could be mistaken for naivity. In following the rest of the thread, including your various responses, I have concluded that expressions like, "leaks electricity to the case" and "what would be a typical application for this drill" were not indicative of your non-newbie status. Clearly, to anyone who read the whole thread, it should be clear that you not only know what a *megger* is, but you have one, and you know a little something about the whole subject. Maybe Mike jumped in and posted without reading the whole thread. PLEASE don't throw that rugged old drill away. If necessary, use it on a non-GFI circuit and wear a pair of rubber gloves. It just occurred to me--maybe this whole thing was just an excuse for you to gloat over the possession of such a fine old drill. ;-) |
#3
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking,alt.home.repair
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Drill leaks electricity to case
If it works, keep it. Especially if it has the bolt hole on the top of
the unit to screw in an auxilary handle. Getting a double handle grip on it gives you LOTS of control. Ignoramus15109 wrote: On Wed, 22 Feb 2006 21:43:38 GMT, Leo Lichtman wrote: "Ignoramus15109"wrote: (clip) I would like to know the reasoning behind your opinion (that if I have to ask how to fix it, I should throw it away (clip) ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ I will answer for Mike. There was something about the tone of your original post that could be mistaken for naivity. In following the rest of the thread, including your various responses, I have concluded that expressions like, "leaks electricity to the case" and "what would be a typical application for this drill" were not indicative of your non-newbie status. I believe that you have an extra "not" (or "non") somewhere above. Otherwise, yes, I think that Mike made some assumptions that were not, in fact, true. Clearly, to anyone who read the whole thread, it should be clear that you not only know what a *megger* is, but you have one, and you know a little something about the whole subject. I know a little bit and have done a few electrical projects. Nothing really advanced, but somewhere at or a little above the level of repairing an old metal cased drill. Maybe Mike jumped in and posted without reading the whole thread. PLEASE don't throw that rugged old drill away. If necessary, use it on a non-GFI circuit and wear a pair of rubber gloves. It just occurred to me--maybe this whole thing was just an excuse for you to gloat over the possession of such a fine old drill. ;-) Not really. The more I think about it, the more I realize that I should sell it, as even my 1/2" Dewalt drill is too powerful for my hands. I would get no benefit from this drill, it is designed for men stronger than I am. I will likely sell it after I repair it. I first though to keep it, and then realized that it is too strong for me, torque wise. As it often happens, I may change my mind. i |
#4
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking,alt.home.repair
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Drill leaks electricity to case
Leo wrote: (clip) not indicative of your non-newbie status. (clip) ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ Igor-amp-us wrote: I believe that you have an extra "not" (or "non") somewhere above. ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ to which Leo responds: No. I think I have the right amount of double negativity. The meaning I was after was, "Your writing style fooled us by sounding like it came from an uninformed person." |
#5
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking,alt.home.repair
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Drill leaks electricity to case
In article %u2Lf.1040$Gz4.781
@fe13.usenetserver.com, ignoramus15109 @NOSPAM.15109.invalid says... On Wed, 22 Feb 2006 18:54:25 GMT, MikeP wrote: In article 8f_Kf.3814$6H4.366 @fe28.usenetserver.com, ignoramus3408 @NOSPAM.3408.invalid says... I have this Black and Decker 450 RPM drill: When plugged into a GFCI outlet, it leaks electricity to ground and pops the GFCI breaker. My question is, what is the most likely culprit and how to approach repair of it. It trips GFCI outlets; repair it or cut the cord off and throw it away. If you need to ask how to repair it ... cut the cord off and throw it away. I would like to know the reasoning behind your opinion (that if I have to ask how to fix it, I should throw it away). My experience with repairing various things (spa, compressor, a diesel generator are some examples) suggests that asking intelligent people nicely results in good suggestions and finally in good results. I under estimated your abilities and I tend to error on the side of safety. I did not intend to be insulting or inconsiderate. Sorry ... That said, I would not use (or sell) that drill with or without rubber gloves until it is properly repaired. |
#6
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking,alt.home.repair
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Drill leaks electricity to case
In defense of Iggy: he asks some pretty basic questions when he starts a
project but seems to power his way through to some exotic questions fairly quikly. Most of us are not up to designing inverter welder circuits. Leo Lichtman wrote: "Ignoramus15109"wrote: (clip) I would like to know the reasoning behind your opinion (that if I have to ask how to fix it, I should throw it away (clip) ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ I will answer for Mike. There was something about the tone of your original post that could be mistaken for naivity. In following the rest of the thread, including your various responses, I have concluded that expressions like, "leaks electricity to the case" and "what would be a typical application for this drill" were not indicative of your non-newbie status. Clearly, to anyone who read the whole thread, it should be clear that you not only know what a *megger* is, but you have one, and you know a little something about the whole subject. Maybe Mike jumped in and posted without reading the whole thread. PLEASE don't throw that rugged old drill away. If necessary, use it on a non-GFI circuit and wear a pair of rubber gloves. It just occurred to me--maybe this whole thing was just an excuse for you to gloat over the possession of such a fine old drill. ;-) |
#7
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
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Drill leaks electricity to case
On Wed, 22 Feb 2006 22:02:44 GMT, Ignoramus15109
wrote: snippity snip Not really. The more I think about it, the more I realize that I should sell it, as even my 1/2" Dewalt drill is too powerful for my hands. I would get no benefit from this drill, it is designed for men stronger than I am. I will likely sell it after I repair it. I first though to keep it, and then realized that it is too strong for me, torque wise. As it often happens, I may change my mind. Hi Iggy, Harbor Freight puts their Router speed control on sale for ~$12.99 pretty regular. I've used this with my 90 deg angle drill successfully (single speed). It also works with my Sears Die Grinder and Milwaukee 4.5 inch Angle Grinder. See: http://www.harborfreightusa.com/usa/...ateg oryName= It is in the Feb 27 ending date flier right now for the aforementioned price. I don't know how well it will hold up, it isn't very heavy. I can't believe the heatsink inside (I haven't taken it apart yet) is too substantial. This would give you a lot more control on a single speed drill though. -- Leon Fisk Grand Rapids MI/Zone 5b Remove no.spam for email |
#8
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Drill leaks electricity to case
On Thu, 23 Feb 2006 19:46:26 GMT, Ignoramus22178
wrote: On Thu, 23 Feb 2006 14:29:51 -0500, Leon Fisk wrote: On Wed, 22 Feb 2006 22:02:44 GMT, Ignoramus15109 wrote: snippity snip Not really. The more I think about it, the more I realize that I should sell it, as even my 1/2" Dewalt drill is too powerful for my hands. I would get no benefit from this drill, it is designed for men stronger than I am. I will likely sell it after I repair it. I first though to keep it, and then realized that it is too strong for me, torque wise. As it often happens, I may change my mind. Hi Iggy, Harbor Freight puts their Router speed control on sale for ~$12.99 pretty regular. I've used this with my 90 deg angle drill successfully (single speed). It also works with my Sears Die Grinder and Milwaukee 4.5 inch Angle Grinder. See: http://www.harborfreightusa.com/usa/...ateg oryName= It is in the Feb 27 ending date flier right now for the aforementioned price. I don't know how well it will hold up, it isn't very heavy. I can't believe the heatsink inside (I haven't taken it apart yet) is too substantial. This would give you a lot more control on a single speed drill though. Leon, that's an interesting item... But my issue is torque, not speed. What I was saying was, my regular drill has too much torque fgor me anyway, why would I want a drill with even more torque. A good answer to it was that this 450 rpm drill can have an extra long handle screwed in, so that I could handle extra torque. I think that I will keep this drill for now. As far as this speed control goes, I am not sure how I would benefit from it, personally. It is a very interesting item though. Hi Iggy, If you decrease the speed with the above said item, you will also be decreasing the torque. IOW you would be able hold the drill and stall it out at some point and not end up looking like a pretzel. Whether or not the speed control would be up to the stalled condition (I think it would) and for how long is an unknown question. Do you still have those Sears Die Grinders you wrote about awhile back? If so did you ever get around to replacing the bearings or figuring out why they were so noisy? I suspect I have one just like them (bought it new) and it sounds loud too (soon after using it, it is virtually new yet). I always suspected a vibration/harmonic was setting up in mine. I've been meaning to try the speed control on it for longer than just a test and find out if backing off on the RPM a bit gets rid of it. I should have the manual around for it somewhere too... -- Leon Fisk Grand Rapids MI/Zone 5b Remove no.spam for email |
#9
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
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Drill leaks electricity to case
On Thu, 23 Feb 2006 20:24:53 GMT, Ignoramus22178
wrote: snip Do you still have those Sears Die Grinders you wrote about awhile back? I sold one a while ago (for $52) and kept another. If so did you ever get around to replacing the bearings or figuring out why they were so noisy? No, but it is straightforward -- go to sears.com and get the bearings. I just did not get around to it. I suspect I have one just like them (bought it new) and it sounds loud too (soon after using it, it is virtually new yet). I always suspected a vibration/harmonic was setting up in mine. I've been meaning to try the speed control on it for longer than just a test and find out if backing off on the RPM a bit gets rid of it. I should have the manual around for it somewhere too... I would be greatly interested in your findings actually. I decided that for whatever little use this grinder gets, I can tolerate a bit of noise and vibration. I've got to dig it out and pretend it is really a router for a short time and finish a Deadbolt strike plate recess pretty soon. I'll let you know how the speed control works and whether I can quiet it down or not. -- Leon Fisk Grand Rapids MI/Zone 5b Remove no.spam for email |
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