I'm seeing some conflicting information on the right blade to use for
cutting aluminum.....mayvbe you can help.

I know carbide would be best but this is a small quantity of .050 (5052)
aluminum that I need to cut on my table saw with a 10" blade, so I'd prefer
just getting a steel blade for one time? use.

However, I'm seeing conflicting info like.....

**72 tooth with a wax stick is best.

**Never use a wax stick because clogging is the last thing you
want.......use WD40 instead.

**I've seen "aluminum" cutting blades with as few as 72 teeth and as many as
150 teeth. (For example, Mcmaster carr's blade is 150 tooth).

Anyone actually done this on a table saw and can reccomend EXACTLY what I
need?

THANKS.

If I have to get carbide, I will (I like systimatic blades).

In article ,
says...
I'm seeing some conflicting information on the right blade to use for
cutting aluminum.....mayvbe you can help.

I know carbide would be best but this is a small quantity of .050 (5052)
aluminum that I need to cut on my table saw with a 10" blade, so I'd prefer
just getting a steel blade for one time? use.

However, I'm seeing conflicting info like.....

**72 tooth with a wax stick is best.

**Never use a wax stick because clogging is the last thing you
want.......use WD40 instead.

**I've seen "aluminum" cutting blades with as few as 72 teeth and as many as
150 teeth. (For example, Mcmaster carr's blade is 150 tooth).

Anyone actually done this on a table saw and can reccomend EXACTLY what I
need?


I'm not sure I can tell you exactly what you need, but I've
cut lots of plate, up to 1", on a 3HP Unisaw. Also plenty
of 80-20 and Item framing on a chop saw. I use a Freud non-
ferrous blade. This is the one, I think...

http://www.toolmarts.com/lu89m009.html

For thin material a blade with more teeth would likely be
better. There are more choices here...

http://www.toolmarts.com/nonferrous.html

I've always used stick wax with excellent results and no
problems with clogging. The page above warns against wax,
but that's the first time I've seen that. It may be the
safety weenies worrying about applying wax to a spinning
blade. You might want to try both wax and liquid.

The ATB blades seem to push the work around more than a
typical woodworking combo blade, so I clamp the stock to a
sliding board in the table saw. It's much safer and the
cuts are more acccurate with a better finish.

Ned Simmons

I have cut a lot of aluminum up to 5/8" thick with 40 tooth circular saw
blades on standard circular saws. They work perfect for a while but then
eventually the carbide tips break off and the steel that held the tip ends
up bending.
"Ned Simmons" wrote in message
...
In article ,
says...
I'm seeing some conflicting information on the right blade to use for
cutting aluminum.....mayvbe you can help.

I know carbide would be best but this is a small quantity of .050 (5052)
aluminum that I need to cut on my table saw with a 10" blade, so I'd
prefer
just getting a steel blade for one time? use.

However, I'm seeing conflicting info like.....

**72 tooth with a wax stick is best.

**Never use a wax stick because clogging is the last thing you
want.......use WD40 instead.

**I've seen "aluminum" cutting blades with as few as 72 teeth and as
many as
150 teeth. (For example, Mcmaster carr's blade is 150 tooth).

Anyone actually done this on a table saw and can reccomend EXACTLY what
I
need?


I'm not sure I can tell you exactly what you need, but I've
cut lots of plate, up to 1", on a 3HP Unisaw. Also plenty
of 80-20 and Item framing on a chop saw. I use a Freud non-
ferrous blade. This is the one, I think...

http://www.toolmarts.com/lu89m009.html

For thin material a blade with more teeth would likely be
better. There are more choices here...

http://www.toolmarts.com/nonferrous.html

I've always used stick wax with excellent results and no
problems with clogging. The page above warns against wax,
but that's the first time I've seen that. It may be the
safety weenies worrying about applying wax to a spinning
blade. You might want to try both wax and liquid.

The ATB blades seem to push the work around more than a
typical woodworking combo blade, so I clamp the stock to a
sliding board in the table saw. It's much safer and the
cuts are more acccurate with a better finish.

Ned Simmons



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So if I try to cut some 2" square tubing with 0.190 wall thickness, I
might expect my chop saw blade to throw some teeth my way after a cut or
two?

I don't think it will be quite that bad, but it will wear the teeth out
after a while and the wood blades will be more prone to chipping. Go
slow and don't let it overheat too much. I find the solid wax lube
helps and if you have a vacuum you will want to use it, The fine chips
will spread over the whole shop :-) Almost as bad as cutting MDF :-)

Hitch wrote:
So if I try to cut some 2" square tubing with 0.190 wall thickness, I
might expect my chop saw blade to throw some teeth my way after a cut or
two?

The high count tooth blades for metal are the way to go. The higher the
count, the smoother the work and the thinner the material that can be cut,
just like with a hacksaw or other such blades.
Wax vs. oil vs. WD40 is more personal preference as each of them works as
does dry on certain types of aluminum. Kind of like what gas you put into
your car. Some people put only premium Sinclair into their car and would
consider anything else to be trash while others use regular gas from the
cheapest pumps and wouldn't consider using the expensive Sinclair stuff as
it is just a waste of money. Thus, the lubricant that you find working well
on cutting aluminum by any other method. I'll also note that different
aluminum alloys want different lubricants when machining so be aware.

--
Bob May
Losing weight is easy! If you ever want to lose weight, eat and drink less.
Works every time it is tried!

No one has mentioned the idea that you _should_ use a non-ferrous blade.
These blades have negative rake which helps to prevent the blade from
picking up your piece of material and tossing it across the shop.

I sell lots of these blades at work. I would never, ever, recommend using
anything other than a negative rake blade. I've also cut some 1/2" aluminium
plate on a cabinet saw. You'll find out pretty quick that a) this is pretty
much the scariest operation that can be performed on a table saw and b) you
want the right tool for the job.

It will be loud and it will fling chips everywhere (they're HOT - wear
protection).

Our 10" N/F blades (by Dimar) have 96 teeth. They're worth a little bit more
than $100 Canadian, although they are of very high quality. I would
personally recommend using wax, but as others have said, WD-40 works well
also.

HTH.

Regards,

Robin


"EBG" wrote in message
...
I'm seeing some conflicting information on the right blade to use for
cutting aluminum.....mayvbe you can help.

"EBG" wrote in message
...
I'm seeing some conflicting information on the right blade to use for
cutting aluminum.....mayvbe you can help.

I know carbide would be best but this is a small quantity of .050 (5052)
aluminum that I need to cut on my table saw with a 10" blade, so I'd
prefer
just getting a steel blade for one time? use.




..050 what? Flat, round tubing?
I have cut a fair amount of aluminum on my tablesaw and power miter box. I
used what ever fine tooth wood cutting blade was in it at the time. I have
cut thin extrusions, 1/4" 6061 plate. I would use what ever carbide blade
you have.
Greg