After constantly getting fed up with my 24l (Oil Free) compressor
running out of air, I have upgraded to a 100L model. But this one needs
oil!

The oil level is a little low in the window and I would like to top it
up, so what oil do I use? Can I use standard 4-stroke motor oil, or do
I need something special?

What about mixing? If I don't know whats already in there, is it 'safe'
to just top it up or should I drain it first?

Any info would be appreciated

Jon

On 4 Feb 2006 12:46:40 -0800, wrote:

After constantly getting fed up with my 24l (Oil Free) compressor
running out of air, I have upgraded to a 100L model. But this one needs
oil!

The oil level is a little low in the window and I would like to top it
up, so what oil do I use? Can I use standard 4-stroke motor oil, or do
I need something special?

What about mixing? If I don't know whats already in there, is it 'safe'
to just top it up or should I drain it first?

Any info would be appreciated

Jon

http://www.amsoil.com/lit/g1310.pdf

Don Foreman wrote:
On 4 Feb 2006 12:46:40 -0800, wrote:

After constantly getting fed up with my 24l (Oil Free) compressor
running out of air, I have upgraded to a 100L model. But this one needs
oil!

The oil level is a little low in the window and I would like to top it
up, so what oil do I use? Can I use standard 4-stroke motor oil, or do
I need something special?

What about mixing? If I don't know whats already in there, is it 'safe'
to just top it up or should I drain it first?

Any info would be appreciated

Jon

http://www.amsoil.com/lit/g1310.pdf

Interesting.. I will see what I can find in the UK.. It appears that
they are all synthetic, and rather than take the risk of 'mixing' oils,
I am tempted to drain mine and add all new oil

Many thanks for the info

Jon

You can use motor oil but it must be non detergent type.



On 4 Feb 2006 12:46:40 -0800, wrote:

After constantly getting fed up with my 24l (Oil Free) compressor
running out of air, I have upgraded to a 100L model. But this one needs
oil!

The oil level is a little low in the window and I would like to top it
up, so what oil do I use? Can I use standard 4-stroke motor oil, or do
I need something special?

What about mixing? If I don't know whats already in there, is it 'safe'
to just top it up or should I drain it first?

Any info would be appreciated

Jon
Gary Pewitt N9ZSV
Sturgeon's Law "Ninety per cent of everything is crap"

On 4 Feb 2006 12:46:40 -0800, wrote:

After constantly getting fed up with my 24l (Oil Free) compressor
running out of air, I have upgraded to a 100L model. But this one needs
oil!

The oil level is a little low in the window and I would like to top it
up, so what oil do I use? Can I use standard 4-stroke motor oil, or do
I need something special?

What about mixing? If I don't know whats already in there, is it 'safe'
to just top it up or should I drain it first?

Any info would be appreciated

Is it a standard piston compressor with a splash-lube crankcase, or
pressure lube? Who made it? Model number? How many stages and how
many cylinders?

If you can't find a data plate and don't know who made it, put
pictures of the unit up on a webpage somewhere and point us to them
with a link here. Someone (probably in the European contingent) will
recognize the maker, and can give you clues as to where to get the
definitive maintenance information.

You usually use a non-detergent oil in an air compressor, and the
additive package is significantly different from regular gasoline
(petrol) or diesel engine oils - but they will work. Some makers
specify a synthetic lubricant in their two-stage units because they
run very hot at maximum pressure.

Do NOT mix new and old oils if you have no idea what's in there now
- even if it's a bit low there is oil in there. The odds are very low
IMHO, but if they've got some odd oil in there you could have a
reaction in the crankcase between the new and old oils, and gelled
goop doesn't lubricate the bearings at all.

If it's a screw compressor (Roots Blower - usually 25 HP or better)
they require a totally different type of lubricant, and instead of a
regular air receiver they have a pressurized oil separation and
lubricant supply tank in the air output that recirculates the oil.

-- Bruce --

--
Bruce L. Bergman, Woodland Hills (Los Angeles) CA - Desktop
Electrician for Westend Electric - CA726700
5737 Kanan Rd. #359, Agoura CA 91301 (818) 889-9545
Spamtrapped address: Remove the python and the invalid, and use a net.

wrote:
After constantly getting fed up with my 24l (Oil Free) compressor
running out of air, I have upgraded to a 100L model. But this one needs
oil!

The oil level is a little low in the window and I would like to top it
up, so what oil do I use? Can I use standard 4-stroke motor oil, or do
I need something special?

What about mixing? If I don't know whats already in there, is it 'safe'
to just top it up or should I drain it first?

Any info would be appreciated

Jon

As others have said, non-detergent.

My C-H calls for IS068 which is the same thing as non-detergent SAE20.

JW

The compressor is made by 'Valley', buts its just a cheap, rebadged
generic compressor made in China..

Its an upright, 3hp, single piston type with a very similar 'engine' to
my old Oil Free 24L version (again, a cheap, rebadged import).

I think that I will drain the old oil out and put in some new stuff...
I found in the (limited) instructions that it suggest N32 oil in the
winter and N68 in the summer.. I guess this "ISO" number.

One questions about oil changes is, how do I get all of the old oil
out? Obviously I heat it up, open the drain plug and tip it out, but do
I have to get EVERY drop out? Does it matter if there is still a little
bit left over?

I think I know where I can get the right oil in the UK, so am going to
change whats in there, just in case.

All the best

Jon

wrote in message
oups.com...
The compressor is made by 'Valley', buts its just a cheap, rebadged
generic compressor made in China..

Its an upright, 3hp, single piston type with a very similar 'engine'
to
my old Oil Free 24L version (again, a cheap, rebadged import).

I think that I will drain the old oil out and put in some new
stuff...
I found in the (limited) instructions that it suggest N32 oil in the
winter and N68 in the summer.. I guess this "ISO" number.

One questions about oil changes is, how do I get all of the old oil
out? Obviously I heat it up, open the drain plug and tip it out, but
do
I have to get EVERY drop out? Does it matter if there is still a
little
bit left over?

I think I know where I can get the right oil in the UK, so am going
to
change whats in there, just in case.

All the best

Jon


Jon,

If you are worried about reaction between existing oil and new oil
then you will have to empty, then flush with new then empty several
times to be sure none of the old oil is left behind.

As it is a generic Chinese machine I would just go to your local
Machinemart and buy a bottle of their compressor oil and top it up.

http://www.machinemart.co.uk/index.asp

AWEM

On 5 Feb 2006 02:42:38 -0800, wrote:

The compressor is made by 'Valley', buts its just a cheap, rebadged
generic compressor made in China..

Its an upright, 3hp, single piston type with a very similar 'engine' to
my old Oil Free 24L version (again, a cheap, rebadged import).

I think that I will drain the old oil out and put in some new stuff...
I found in the (limited) instructions that it suggest N32 oil in the
winter and N68 in the summer.. I guess this "ISO" number.

Yes - sounds like regular SAE20 - ISO68 non-detergent petroleum
based will do just fine. It isn't one of the fancy types. And if you
don't operate it regularly in sub-freezing cold areas, you don't need
to worry about putting ISO32 "winter oil" in.

One questions about oil changes is, how do I get all of the old oil
out? Obviously I heat it up, open the drain plug and tip it out, but do
I have to get EVERY drop out? Does it matter if there is still a little
bit left over?

Do not worry about that - I mentioned it on the off chance this unit
was something exotic bought as surplus that used an exotic oil.

When you do the first oil change (after you wipe up the mess as the
oil flows down the side of the unit...) is the time to add a pipe
nipple and any elbows needed to get the oil drain to a convenient spot
for the catch bucket. Make future oil changes neater.

But if you put a ball valve in the oil drain line, be sure to put
the pipe plug back in the end, too - there are gremlins that turn
valve handles. (2-year olds, cats, piles of junk falling over...)

I think I know where I can get the right oil in the UK, so am going to
change whats in there, just in case.

It's like a car engine - they want you to run it for an hour
unloaded (with the air output line unplugged, no pressure in the tank)
for ring seating, then you change the oil after 5 to 10 hours to get
rid of the initial manufacturing sporge in the compressor crankcase,
then every 50 hours.

Do you have an hourmeter wired across the motor yet? Cheap way to
remind yourself to change the compressor oil once in a while.

-- Bruce --

--
Bruce L. Bergman, Woodland Hills (Los Angeles) CA - Desktop
Electrician for Westend Electric - CA726700
5737 Kanan Rd. #359, Agoura CA 91301 (818) 889-9545
Spamtrapped address: Remove the python and the invalid, and use a net.

The only problemis that Machinemart only do SAE40, which is ISO100 in 1
litre sizes.. If I want 30 (ISO68), I have to get 5litres which may be
a bit of an overkil.

I have found another place which does 30 in 1 litres bottles, so will
get some of that.

Still a little concerned as to whether I should just 'top it up' or go
a complete change!!

Why do I worry about everything?

Jon

wrote:
After constantly getting fed up with my 24l (Oil Free) compressor
running out of air, I have upgraded to a 100L model. But this one needs
oil!

The oil level is a little low in the window and I would like to top it
up, so what oil do I use? Can I use standard 4-stroke motor oil, or do
I need something special?

What about mixing? If I don't know whats already in there, is it 'safe'
to just top it up or should I drain it first?

Any info would be appreciated

Jon

Like some others have said, straight weight 20 or 30, non - detergent.

The reason why they say "non-detergent" is that without a filter in the
system you want the abrasive material to settle to the bottom of the
crankcase. With a "detergent" oil, the abrasive material is held in
suspension to accelerate compressor wear.

TMT

On 5 Feb 2006 08:34:35 -0800, wrote:

The only problemis that Machinemart only do SAE40, which is ISO100 in 1
litre sizes.. If I want 30 (ISO68), I have to get 5litres which may be
a bit of an overkil.

I have found another place which does 30 in 1 litres bottles, so will
get some of that.

Most small compressors take between one and two liters for a fill,
which won't break you. So get the 5-liter bottle, or a case of 12
1-liter bottles, or the big 5-Gallon (25-liter?) pail, and then you
have no excuses for not doing it once or twice a year.

Be sure to get a clean plastic pail and lid to collect the waste oil
for recycling - what goes in must come out.

Still a little concerned as to whether I should just 'top it up' or go
a complete change!!

Change it - you are also getting out any dirt or sand from the
foundry, and the initial break-in wear particles. And the periodic
change gets out any accumulated wear particles.

Why do I worry about everything?

Beats me - latent masochism? ;-) Then again, some people just like
to self-flagellate like that...

-- Bruce --

--
Bruce L. Bergman, Woodland Hills (Los Angeles) CA - Desktop
Electrician for Westend Electric - CA726700
5737 Kanan Rd. #359, Agoura CA 91301 (818) 889-9545
Spamtrapped address: Remove the python and the invalid, and use a net.

"That makes sense , but after 30 years running I can't tell any wear.
And my bores still have the hone marks. Compressors are not like cars
where gas contaminates the oil... "

Good point.

I would consider the missing acidic component and frequency of oil
changes would help extend a compressor life.

I do know that in gear head lathes they also want non detergent oil so
any abrasive material settles to the bottom of the gear case. It might
be a good idea to use a magnetic drain plug in the bottom of the
compressor case to contain any abrasive particles. I have seen magnets
glued in the bottom of gear cases of lathes and they do collect
abrasive particles.

TMT

Too_Many_Tools wrote in article
.com...
The reason why they say "non-detergent" is that without a filter in the
system you want the abrasive material to settle to the bottom of the
crankcase. With a "detergent" oil, the abrasive material is held in
suspension to accelerate compressor wear.



That all sounds nice, but........

.......why is non-detergent specified by manufacturers for oiling electric
motor bearings, bushings, and other non-automotive-engine, lubricating
situations??

Is it so the contaminants will settle to the bottom of the bearing's
crankcase????

The reason why non-detergent is usually specified for general-purpose
oiling of such things as bearings, bushings, and other
non-automotive-engine mechanisms is that detergents in engine oils absorb
moisture.

In an internal combustion engine, that's no problem since, when the
engine's normal operating temperature has been reached, the temperature of
the oil gets high enough to "burn off" the moisture.

But, when using straight-grade oils for oiling motors and compressors, a
detergent additive will absorb any moisture from the air - and with the
component operating in comparitively low heat - will eventually sludge up,
with the likelihood of losing its lubricating capacity.

* wrote:
Too_Many_Tools wrote in article
.com...

The reason why they say "non-detergent" is that without a filter in the
system you want the abrasive material to settle to the bottom of the
crankcase. With a "detergent" oil, the abrasive material is held in
suspension to accelerate compressor wear.




That all sounds nice, but........

......why is non-detergent specified by manufacturers for oiling electric
motor bearings, bushings, and other non-automotive-engine, lubricating
situations??

Is it so the contaminants will settle to the bottom of the bearing's
crankcase????

The reason why non-detergent is usually specified for general-purpose
oiling of such things as bearings, bushings, and other
non-automotive-engine mechanisms is that detergents in engine oils absorb
moisture.

In an internal combustion engine, that's no problem since, when the
engine's normal operating temperature has been reached, the temperature of
the oil gets high enough to "burn off" the moisture.

But, when using straight-grade oils for oiling motors and compressors, a
detergent additive will absorb any moisture from the air - and with the
component operating in comparitively low heat - will eventually sludge up,
with the likelihood of losing its lubricating capacity.


Exactly correct. This is why it is important for engines to get hot
enough to evaporate the moisture from the oil but cool enough not to
cook the oil.