Hello all,

For reasons that are beyond my comprehensiong, I loosened the bolts,
scraped out what I could between the column and the base, swept the
table, and added some shims. Actually, I swept the table as a test
before ever messing with the bolts.

First, my Chinese combo wrench was no match for the Chinese lock
washers. Geeeezzzzzz. Hats off to Enco, because their bargain wrench
(23 mm was the charm) held very securely, allowing me to use my bargain
deadblow hammer.

The readings matched what I expected from the face mill: the head was
leaning to the right (almost a shame to fix itg). I was a little
surprised to find about seven thou at 5 inches. At this point, I have
it within a couple thou, and should get more shims before messing around
any more. The alignment should be much improved, and I doubt I have the
material to do better.

So far, I am using all one-thou shims. Would you like me to get some
thicker ones? While I'm at it, are there any cheap but good indicator
holders I should get? I cobbled together a contraption using parts from
the Baker kit and at least one import mag base. Maybe that's good
enough. Most of my dti work is spindle mounted for aligning my vise,
and that is easy (slap it in a collet) and works well.

To tighten the bolts, I gave them a good tug and then a few light whacks
with a mallet. Was that overkill? They were _really_ tight before I
got to them. Do I need to do something else? Having seen a vise slip,
I have renewed respect for milling forces, but obviously, stripping
those bolts would be a BAD idea =:0

Bill

"Bill Schwab" wrote in message
ink.net...

snip----

So far, I am using all one-thou shims. Would you like me to get some
thicker ones?

If you can put a shim in that is the proper thickness and you have one on
hand, it makes screwing around with the job easier because you don't have
to keep chasing the shims to keep them stacked properly. Otherwise, if
you've kept things clean, shouldn't make any difference.

When you shim the base, try to install the exact amount of shim that the
position requires------which is much easier if you have the .001" shims you
mentioned, otherwise it requires a variety of shims---not really necessary.


While I'm at it, are there any cheap but good indicator
holders I should get? I cobbled together a contraption using parts from
the Baker kit and at least one import mag base. Maybe that's good
enough. Most of my dti work is spindle mounted for aligning my vise,
and that is easy (slap it in a collet) and works well.

I've always used the attachments that came with my indicators, but when I
need something beyond normal application I use the large unit that came with
my Starrett mag base. By chucking a short piece of 3/8" diameter material
I can then use pretty much any kind of extension needed. I'm not sure
what the new ones look like, but mine has a large knurled nut that unlocks
the swivel that accommodates two 3/8" rods---which you can then place at any
angle you prefer. Hope this makes sense. It does when you're holding the
attachment. Beyond that, I have no suggestions.

To tighten the bolts, I gave them a good tug and then a few light whacks
with a mallet. Was that overkill? They were _really_ tight before I
got to them. Do I need to do something else? Having seen a vise slip,
I have renewed respect for milling forces, but obviously, stripping
those bolts would be a BAD idea =:0

Agreed, stripping them would be a bad thing, but it might be a good idea to
check proper torque specs for the diameter bolt in question and use a torque
wrench. Breaking the bolt wouldn't be nearly as bad a deal as having the
head move under a cut. If you do use a torque wrench, unless you can
ascertain that the bolts are heat treated, tighten them to specs for a class
2 bolt. That's playing it safe. I'm not sure how I feel about using a
hammer on the threads. I've always just trusted my instincts when
tightening bolts, but then I've tightened one hell of a lot of them.

Harold

Harold,

When you shim the base, try to install the exact amount of shim that the
position requires------which is much easier if you have the .001" shims you
mentioned, otherwise it requires a variety of shims---not really necessary.

I'm close as it is, so I will probably stick with one thou.


While I'm at it, are there any cheap but good indicator
holders I should get? I cobbled together a contraption using parts from
the Baker kit and at least one import mag base. Maybe that's good
enough. Most of my dti work is spindle mounted for aligning my vise,
and that is easy (slap it in a collet) and works well.


I've always used the attachments that came with my indicators, but when I
need something beyond normal application I use the large unit that came with
my Starrett mag base. By chucking a short piece of 3/8" diameter material
I can then use pretty much any kind of extension needed. I'm not sure
what the new ones look like, but mine has a large knurled nut that unlocks
the swivel that accommodates two 3/8" rods---which you can then place at any
angle you prefer. Hope this makes sense. It does when you're holding the
attachment. Beyond that, I have no suggestions.

That helps. I will find the isolated pieces that I need to make a
dedicated rig; it should be a lot cheaper than the complete sets and
will prevent lost parts and time.


To tighten the bolts, I gave them a good tug and then a few light whacks
with a mallet. Was that overkill? They were _really_ tight before I
got to them. Do I need to do something else? Having seen a vise slip,
I have renewed respect for milling forces, but obviously, stripping
those bolts would be a BAD idea =:0


Agreed, stripping them would be a bad thing, but it might be a good idea to
check proper torque specs for the diameter bolt in question and use a torque
wrench. Breaking the bolt wouldn't be nearly as bad a deal as having the
head move under a cut. If you do use a torque wrench, unless you can
ascertain that the bolts are heat treated, tighten them to specs for a class
2 bolt. That's playing it safe. I'm not sure how I feel about using a
hammer on the threads. I've always just trusted my instincts when
tightening bolts, but then I've tightened one hell of a lot of them.

"Hammer on threads" makes it sound worse than it was: I used a soft dead
blow hammer on the end of medium length wrench. It took a lot more of a
whack to get them loose than I used to tighten them; each of them took
three light taps with progressively less motion each time. I will check
on class 2 bolts; that sounds a lot nicer than winging it. Somehow, I
suspect I will need a bigger torque wrench than the one I have on hand
for small engines[*].
[*] Don't get the idea that I know what I'm doing; I'm simply too lazy
to cart a mower off for service

Thanks!!

Bill

"Bill Schwab" wrote in message
ink.net...
snip-
I will check
on class 2 bolts; that sounds a lot nicer than winging it. Somehow, I
suspect I will need a bigger torque wrench than the one I have on hand
for small engines[*].

Damn, late last night I was thinking about my response and wondered if I
said. I meant to say *grade* 2. Class is a reference to the thread
itself, not the strength of the bolt (which will automatically have a class
2 thread).

The reason I suggested grade 2 bolts is because of the unknown with the
existing bolts. They may not be heat treated. The torque specs for a
grade 2 would be lower than for a grade 5 or grade 8 bolt. If the thread
depth in the casting is double the diameter, if you buy new ones, shoot for
stronger bolts. Grade 2 is the lowest, just plain low carbon steel.

The only problem I had with the soft blow hammer is that it's hard to know
how much you're putting on the thread, but if you have a sense of how much
is too much, go with it. Didn't mean to imply it was wrong, or a bad way
to go, it's just that torque wrenches remove the unknown.

Harold

Harold,

Damn, late last night I was thinking about my response and wondered if I
said. I meant to say *grade* 2. Class is a reference to the thread
itself, not the strength of the bolt (which will automatically have a class
2 thread).

No sweat; I'm actually happy it's a concept with which I was already
familiar.


The reason I suggested grade 2 bolts is because of the unknown with the
existing bolts. They may not be heat treated. The torque specs for a
grade 2 would be lower than for a grade 5 or grade 8 bolt. If the thread
depth in the casting is double the diameter, if you buy new ones, shoot for
stronger bolts. Grade 2 is the lowest, just plain low carbon steel.

That's a good way to look at it. Beats an educated guess with a hammer


The only problem I had with the soft blow hammer is that it's hard to know
how much you're putting on the thread, but if you have a sense of how much
is too much, go with it. Didn't mean to imply it was wrong, or a bad way
to go, it's just that torque wrenches remove the unknown.

I appreciate the feedback. Given how hard it was to get the bolts
loose, I had to do something beyond pull on that wrench, and I didn't
have a workable extension. I did some milling yesterday (including some
deep cuts in Al), and some flycutting today; no disasters yet =:0

With the flycutter, I can already see a massive improvement in the
alignment. Suddenly, the "leading and trailing edges" both typically
leave marks on the surface. I won't claim that it's dead nuts yet
(pretty sure it's not), but it is probably not off by much.

Bill

"Bill Schwab" wrote in message
...
snip-----

With the flycutter, I can already see a massive improvement in the
alignment. Suddenly, the "leading and trailing edges" both typically
leave marks on the surface. I won't claim that it's dead nuts yet
(pretty sure it's not), but it is probably not off by much.

Bill

Cool! That's what you're looking for.

My experience with mills indicates that you'll never get it "perfect".
There's rise and fall to some degree in almost all tables, so you get a
changing pattern, but on the average, you don't want a lip where cuts
overlap. It will always show a difference because of the variable feed
rate, almost non-existent at the edges of the cutter, and the coarsest @ 90
degrees. I think you get my drift. Bottom line is when the head is
correct, you don't get steps. That's the target, anyway. The cross-hatch
you mentioned as an excellent indicator that the head is correct in one
plain. When you can duplicate that pattern by moving the saddle, the head
has to be true.

Sounds like you're getting a handle on the machining thing, Bill.

Harold

Harold,

"Bill Schwab" wrote in message
...
snip-----


With the flycutter, I can already see a massive improvement in the
alignment. Suddenly, the "leading and trailing edges" both typically
leave marks on the surface. I won't claim that it's dead nuts yet
(pretty sure it's not), but it is probably not off by much.

Bill


Cool! That's what you're looking for.

It was nice to see.


My experience with mills indicates that you'll never get it "perfect".

Agreed. It if looks perfect, get a better indicator


There's rise and fall to some degree in almost all tables, so you get a
changing pattern, but on the average, you don't want a lip where cuts
overlap. It will always show a difference because of the variable feed
rate, almost non-existent at the edges of the cutter, and the coarsest @ 90
degrees. I think you get my drift.

I think so.


Bottom line is when the head is
correct, you don't get steps. That's the target, anyway. The cross-hatch
you mentioned as an excellent indicator that the head is correct in one
plain. When you can duplicate that pattern by moving the saddle, the head
has to be true.

That sounds like a good test. I'd either need something long enough to
clamp on either side of the test area, or I could turn my vise. I don't
remember whether the bolt slots align with the t-slots near 90 degrees,
but I could put the angle base on it long enough to try it. The vise
would not need to be precision aligned at 90 degrees, right?


Sounds like you're getting a handle on the machining thing, Bill.

You and others here have been a huge help. Thanks!!

Bill

"Bill Schwab" wrote in message
link.net...
snip---


Bottom line is when the head is
correct, you don't get steps. That's the target, anyway. The
cross-hatch
you mentioned (correction) ****is**** an excellent indicator that the
head is correct in one
plain. When you can duplicate that pattern by moving the saddle, the
head
has to be true.

That sounds like a good test. I'd either need something long enough to
clamp on either side of the test area, or I could turn my vise. I don't
remember whether the bolt slots align with the t-slots near 90 degrees,
but I could put the angle base on it long enough to try it. The vise
would not need to be precision aligned at 90 degrees, right?

Right, unless you intend to do other work on the item in question, mill
edges or other features, drill holes, etc. For surfacing, it clearly
isn't important. I do like to have it close, though, so if more than one
pass is taken there's not a tell tale line that shows the part wasn't square
with the cut. Often times I have to use both the saddle and table for
items, which may even be clamped to the table. think of surfacing a large
casting that accepts a lid, for example.

Some vises have slots or holes at the ends, so you can install the vise
sideways. If not, use finger clamps. Not necessary to use the holding
bolt positions unless the vise isn't flat, and even then you can clamp near
enough to pull it down with just a little luck.

Harold

Harold,

That sounds like a good test. I'd either need something long enough to
clamp on either side of the test area, or I could turn my vise. I don't
remember whether the bolt slots align with the t-slots near 90 degrees,
but I could put the angle base on it long enough to try it. The vise
would not need to be precision aligned at 90 degrees, right?


Right, unless you intend to do other work on the item in question, mill
edges or other features, drill holes, etc. For surfacing, it clearly
isn't important. I do like to have it close, though, so if more than one
pass is taken there's not a tell tale line that shows the part wasn't square
with the cut.

That makes it fairly painless to clamp someting for facing with the
saddle. I'll probably try it the next time I have reason to take down
the vise.


Often times I have to use both the saddle and table for
items, which may even be clamped to the table. think of surfacing a large
casting that accepts a lid, for example.

I've been surprised by the number of things I've ended up clamping to
the table (often with wood or blocks). Some of that might be due to
having only a four inch vise. It has also come up with very thin parts,
though they could be mounted to a sub-plate in a vise.


Some vises have slots or holes at the ends, so you can install the vise
sideways. If not, use finger clamps. Not necessary to use the holding
bolt positions unless the vise isn't flat, and even then you can clamp near
enough to pull it down with just a little luck.

I should have thought of that - early on I used clamps to hold my vise
because I didn't have bolts for it.

Thanks!!

Bill

"Bill Schwab" wrote in message
ink.net...
snip----
I should have thought of that - early on I used clamps to hold my vise
because I didn't have bolts for it.

Thanks!!

Bill

Welcome!

Harold

On Thu, 2 Feb 2006 17:37:07 -0800, "Harold and Susan Vordos"
wrote:

Agreed, stripping them would be a bad thing, but it might be a good idea to
check proper torque specs for the diameter bolt in question and use a torque
wrench. Breaking the bolt wouldn't be nearly as bad a deal as having the
head move under a cut. If you do use a torque wrench, unless you can
ascertain that the bolts are heat treated, tighten them to specs for a class
2 bolt. That's playing it safe. I'm not sure how I feel about using a
hammer on the threads. I've always just trusted my instincts when
tightening bolts, but then I've tightened one hell of a lot of them.

Harold

Breaking a few bolts and stripping a few threads with misc
wrenches and sockets is a priceless learning experience. The
more difficult it is to fix/replace said broken item the
faster one seems to learn (at least for some of us, there
are those that never seem to figure it out).

A man has to know his limitations and strength.

Here's a few torque charts I found, just in case you didn't
dig one up yet:

http://dodgeram.org/tech/specs/bolts/SAE_bolts.html

http://www.hastingsmfg.com/Service%20Tips/torque.htm

or if previous link with the embedded space doesn't work:

http://makeashorterlink.com/?X3F21359C

and a metric chart:

http://www.boltdepot.com/fastener-in...ded-Torque.htm


--
Leon Fisk
Grand Rapids MI/Zone 5b
Remove no.spam for email

Leon,

Breaking a few bolts and stripping a few threads with misc
wrenches and sockets is a priceless learning experience. The
more difficult it is to fix/replace said broken item the
faster one seems to learn (at least for some of us, there
are those that never seem to figure it out).

True enough, but let's _not_ try it on my milling machine, ok


A man has to know his limitations

numerous and indefinite

and strength.

few and defined



Here's a few torque charts I found, just in case you didn't
dig one up yet:

Thanks!!!

Bill

Harold,

That sounds like a good test. I'd either need something long enough to
clamp on either side of the test area, or I could turn my vise. I don't
remember whether the bolt slots align with the t-slots near 90 degrees,
but I could put the angle base on it long enough to try it. The vise
would not need to be precision aligned at 90 degrees, right?



Right, unless you intend to do other work on the item in question, mill
edges or other features, drill holes, etc. For surfacing, it clearly
isn't important. I do like to have it close, though, so if more than one
pass is taken there's not a tell tale line that shows the part wasn't
square
with the cut.


That makes it fairly painless to clamp someting for facing with the
saddle. I'll probably try it the next time I have reason to take down
the vise.

I think I was making this a lot harder than necessary. Do you care how
much motion there is in the saddle, or merely that a given strip of
metal "sees the entire flycutter"? Assuming the latter, and needing to
face a small block, I did some roughing with a 3/4 endmill and then ran
the flycutter over it (queue drum roll) using the saddle: I got a cross
hatch pattern

Unless I am missing something, I plan to leisurely buy another pack of
shims, and _not_ bother using them until I see a problem. Do you agree?

Bill

"Bill Schwab" wrote in message
link.net...
snip----
..

I think I was making this a lot harder than necessary. Do you care how
much motion there is in the saddle, or merely that a given strip of
metal "sees the entire flycutter"? Assuming the latter, and needing to
face a small block, I did some roughing with a 3/4 endmill and then ran
the flycutter over it (queue drum roll) using the saddle: I got a cross
hatch pattern


Two things should come together. Your indicator, when swept in a circle
that covers the majority of the table surface, front to back, shows little,
if any deviation from your set point, and you get cross hatch when you
machine in both plains, you can assume that your mill is as close as it's
likely to be. As we both agreed, it will never be perfect-----it lacks the
kind of precision required----as do knee mills. If you're happy with how
your mill performs, I'd suggest it's fine. Remember, the amount of error
you see on your indicator translates into how holes lean, assuming your
parts are mounted to the table. Conventional machining requirements
dictate that such things have a common tolerance of .001"/inch, so if the
mill head is within a thou or two over six inches, you're well within
acceptable standards, although I prefer to be closer. I try to keep the
indicator within less than a half thou, but on a knee mill you don't really
know what is correct. Knee sag can be very deceiving.


Unless I am missing something, I plan to leisurely buy another pack of
shims, and _not_ bother using them until I see a problem. Do you agree?

Bill

Yep, I do. Especially considering the fact that you're learning----and are
likely to make mistakes that are far greater than the capability of your
machine. Hope you understand I'm not trying to be rude. It takes lots
of skill to make good parts, and you lack experience at this point. As you
progress, many things that may not be obvious to you now will come into
sharp focus----at which time you may find fault with some of the decisions
you make now---so keep an open mind and consider that you're likely working
with a machine with capabilities beyond the skills you possess as a
craftsman. Hopefully that will change rapidly. That's really what it's
all about. Truth is, you'll know when the machine isn't up to your
standard, or requirements.

I think you're doing fine, Bill. What impresses me more than anything is
your ability to be told, and that you listen. Makes it worth my time to
try to help.

Harold

Harold,

Two things should come together. Your indicator, when swept in a circle
that covers the majority of the table surface, front to back, shows little,
if any deviation from your set point, and you get cross hatch when you
machine in both plains, you can assume that your mill is as close as it's
likely to be. As we both agreed, it will never be perfect-----it lacks the
kind of precision required----as do knee mills. If you're happy with how
your mill performs, I'd suggest it's fine. Remember, the amount of error
you see on your indicator translates into how holes lean, assuming your
parts are mounted to the table. Conventional machining requirements
dictate that such things have a common tolerance of .001"/inch, so if the
mill head is within a thou or two over six inches, you're well within
acceptable standards, although I prefer to be closer. I try to keep the
indicator within less than a half thou, but on a knee mill you don't really
know what is correct. Knee sag can be very deceiving.

I will certainly take another look at it. Having some more shims on
hand first would be a good idea, and I want to dig into the torque specs
before messing with it again.


Unless I am missing something, I plan to leisurely buy another pack of
shims, and _not_ bother using them until I see a problem. Do you agree?

Yep, I do. Especially considering the fact that you're learning----and are
likely to make mistakes that are far greater than the capability of your
machine. Hope you understand I'm not trying to be rude.

No offense taken - you've been very helpful, and the spirit of the
comment is clear, and quite correct.


It takes lots
of skill to make good parts, and you lack experience at this point.

For example, I more exerienced machinist would not have broken a tap in
the near complete part yesterday - it was going so well... I need the
thing, and didn't want to waste time and metal scrapping it, so I
drilled another couple of holes and milled off the burr that could have
caused injury.


As you
progress, many things that may not be obvious to you now will come into
sharp focus----at which time you may find fault with some of the decisions
you make now---so keep an open mind and consider that you're likely working
with a machine with capabilities beyond the skills you possess as a
craftsman. Hopefully that will change rapidly. That's really what it's
all about. Truth is, you'll know when the machine isn't up to your
standard, or requirements.

Whoa! I just looked at my watch =:0 I was planning to bump in my vise
using only the fixed jaw. Based on what I saw when indicating off of
that block I was using, I suspect there might be something fishy with my
vise or jaws. Hopefully anything out of whack will be easy to correct,
and even in the worst of scenarios, it has nothing to do with the mill.

There is an intermittent vibration that either gets cleared up by
adjusting the gibs or is randomly coming from the motor. Given the hour
and what I still need to do, I have made a note to describe it separately.

The bottom line is that it is quite a nice machine. In just the past
few days, it earned all the electricity and vactra it wants for the next
six months



I think you're doing fine, Bill. What impresses me more than anything is
your ability to be told, and that you listen. Makes it worth my time to
try to help.

I'm getting a lot out of it. Thanks!!!!

Bill

"Bill Schwab" wrote in message
ink.net...
snip-----

and you get cross hatch when you
machine in both plains,

Just noticed my misuse of the word "plains"-------and I expect I've been
getting lots of miles out of it. I know it should be plane------but once I
get something in my head, right or wrong-----sigh!

For example, I more exerienced machinist would not have broken a tap in
the near complete part yesterday - it was going so well.

Chuckle! Sorry about the tap, but if you think having experience exempts
you from breaking taps, you're never going to feel like you have
any-------(experience, that is). They break, and usually at the worst
time, although I can't imagine when a good time might be.

It might be worth a mention-----if you're trying to power tap with a hand
tap, breakage is almost guaranteed. They don't provide proper chip control
without reversing them at the most, every half turn. Make sure you do
all your power tapping with power type taps.

Whoa! I just looked at my watch =:0 I was planning to bump in my vise
using only the fixed jaw. Based on what I saw when indicating off of
that block I was using, I suspect there might be something fishy with my
vise or jaws. Hopefully anything out of whack will be easy to correct,
and even in the worst of scenarios, it has nothing to do with the mill.

If you have a good vise, say a Kurt, the jaws are usually thick enough (and
generally straight) that they're not a problem, but if you have any doubts,
place a parallel in your vise before dialing in the fixed jaw. The
parallel should really be one---something that's hardened and ground, so if
the fixed jaw is slightly warped, the clamping pressure will straighten it
and load the jaw against the back support. That way the vise will be
parallel when in use.


There is an intermittent vibration that either gets cleared up by
adjusting the gibs or is randomly coming from the motor. Given the hour
and what I still need to do, I have made a note to describe it separately.

You see that occasionally when running an end mill under heavy
load -----there's a harmonic of sorts where the end mill feeds effortlessly,
and makes a serious chattering sound, but a low pitched one, sort of a
rumble.


The bottom line is that it is quite a nice machine. In just the past
few days, it earned all the electricity and vactra it wants for the next
six months

It's nice to see you happy with it----there's nothing worse than being stuck
on a machine you don't like. Takes all the fun out of your projects.

Harold

Harold,

Chuckle! Sorry about the tap, but if you think having experience exempts
you from breaking taps, you're never going to feel like you have
any-------(experience, that is). They break, and usually at the worst
time, although I can't imagine when a good time might be.

A good time would be before I inserted it, or better still after I took
it out having made good threads Obviously, that's not going to
happen. I was able to grind/mill away the burr, and then simply drilled
a new set of holes. It was no great loss, but annoying. The choices
were to live with the blemish or waste time and metal.


It might be worth a mention-----if you're trying to power tap with a hand
tap, breakage is almost guaranteed. They don't provide proper chip control
without reversing them at the most, every half turn. Make sure you do
all your power tapping with power type taps.

I was doing this by hand, though after a couple of rounds of tapping, I
have a better understanding of why the power tools exist.



If you have a good vise, say a Kurt, the jaws are usually thick enough (and
generally straight) that they're not a problem, but if you have any doubts,
place a parallel in your vise before dialing in the fixed jaw. The
parallel should really be one---something that's hardened and ground, so if
the fixed jaw is slightly warped, the clamping pressure will straighten it
and load the jaw against the back support. That way the vise will be
parallel when in use.

It'a a clone. What I have been doing is letting a parallel stick up
above the jaws, and indicating on it. Are you saying to clamp a "short"
parallel, and let the indicator run in the slot between the jaws? I
have not tried that yet.

I am also thinking of removing the fixed jaw to run it under a plunge
indicator on top of the table. Something almost has to be out of whack
given the comparatively steady reading I saw indicating off of the thing
that ate the tap. There was some bounce from the flycutter finish, but
the needle was otherwise much more steady than I've seen to date.


There is an intermittent vibration that either gets cleared up by
adjusting the gibs or is randomly coming from the motor. Given the hour
and what I still need to do, I have made a note to describe it separately.


You see that occasionally when running an end mill under heavy
load -----there's a harmonic of sorts where the end mill feeds effortlessly,
and makes a serious chattering sound, but a low pitched one, sort of a
rumble.

I will keep that in mind the next time I notice the vibration. I am
tempted to say that it happens under no load, but won't swear to it. My
best guess has been that it is either a one-phase power and/or slightly
inadequate wiring problem, or that I'm not keeping up with the gibs.

There is a slight change in the sound of the machine, but the most
obvious symptoms involve the dials. The handles chatter slightly, and
the dials will sometimes rotate within backlash. It is intermittent,
and I have done some fairly ugly cuts w/o these things happening.

I mention the gibs because I am not completely certain how often to
check them, and because I am fairly certain that early on, I missed some
slop in the table due to the resistance from the feed. Since I have to
remove the feed to lube the table's left port, I try to check the
resistance at the same time. My feed is aligned fairly well now, but my
most recent order included some import machinist's jacks. I plan to use
them to adjust the height while the gears are meshing (unpowered of
course), and hopefully get it really right

With that said, I would just as easily believe that I am being tricked
by oddities on the power grid. It might not hurt to look at line
voltage when it happens, and I should also check for appliances that
might be running at the same time.

Bill

Harold,

Chuckle! Sorry about the tap, but if you think having experience exempts
you from breaking taps, you're never going to feel like you have
any-------(experience, that is). They break, and usually at the worst
time, although I can't imagine when a good time might be.

A good time would be before I inserted it, or better still after I took
it out having made good threads Obviously, that's not going to
happen. I was able to grind/mill away the burr, and then simply drilled
a new set of holes. It was no great loss, but annoying. The choices
were to live with the blemish or waste time and metal.



It might be worth a mention-----if you're trying to power tap with a hand
tap, breakage is almost guaranteed. They don't provide proper chip control
without reversing them at the most, every half turn. Make sure you do
all your power tapping with power type taps.

I was doing this by hand, though after a couple of rounds of tapping, I
have a better understanding of why the power tools exist.



If you have a good vise, say a Kurt, the jaws are usually thick enough (and
generally straight) that they're not a problem, but if you have any doubts,
place a parallel in your vise before dialing in the fixed jaw. The
parallel should really be one---something that's hardened and ground, so if
the fixed jaw is slightly warped, the clamping pressure will straighten it
and load the jaw against the back support. That way the vise will be
parallel when in use.

It'a a clone. What I have been doing is letting a parallel stick up
above the jaws, and indicating on it. Are you saying to clamp a "short"
parallel, and let the indicator run in the slot between the jaws? I
have not tried that yet.

I am also thinking of removing the fixed jaw to run it under a plunge
indicator on top of the table. Something almost has to be out of whack
given the comparatively steady reading I saw indicating off of the thing
that ate the tap. There was some bounce from the flycutter finish, but
the needle was otherwise much more steady than I've seen to date.



There is an intermittent vibration that either gets cleared up by
adjusting the gibs or is randomly coming from the motor. Given the hour
and what I still need to do, I have made a note to describe it separately.


You see that occasionally when running an end mill under heavy
load -----there's a harmonic of sorts where the end mill feeds effortlessly,
and makes a serious chattering sound, but a low pitched one, sort of a
rumble.

I will keep that in mind the next time I notice the vibration. I am
tempted to say that it happens under no load, but won't swear to it. My
best guess has been that it is either a one-phase power and/or slightly
inadequate wiring problem, or that I'm not keeping up with the gibs.

There is a slight change in the sound of the machine, but the most
obvious symptoms involve the dials. The handles chatter slightly, and
the dials will sometimes rotate within backlash. It is intermittent,
and I have done some fairly ugly cuts w/o these things happening.

I mention the gibs because I am not completely certain how often to
check them, and because I am fairly certain that early on, I missed some
slop in the table due to the resistance from the feed. Since I have to
remove the feed to lube the table's left port, I try to check the
resistance at the same time. My feed is aligned fairly well now, but my
most recent order included some import machinist's jacks. I plan to use
them to adjust the height while the gears are meshing (unpowered of
course), and hopefully get it really right

With that said, I would just as easily believe that I am being tricked
by oddities on the power grid. It might not hurt to look at line
voltage when it happens, and I should also check for appliances that
might be running at the same time.

Bill