I have a Delta 6" Deluxe Jointer (JT360) and continuously get tapered
results - the leading edge becomes thinner than the trailing edge
(tested with a piece of flat particle board). I believe the cause of
this is because the outfeed table is at a very slight decline from the
knives to the end of the table. Would this be the cause? If so, how
do I shim the outfeed table so that it is coplanar with the infeed
table?

TIA,
Shawn

hi shawn,
I just got back from my local woodworking store (scarrie in Baltimore),about
the same jointer and the same problem. They said that some of these jointers
had some casting defects in the tables but most are ok. They suggest that
some paint or some burrs on the underside of the infeed or the outfeed table
might be to blame. I'm going to go into the shop and see if I can find any
problems now I hope this helps.

len
"Ulfius" wrote in message
oups.com...
I have a Delta 6" Deluxe Jointer (JT360) and continuously get tapered
results - the leading edge becomes thinner than the trailing edge
(tested with a piece of flat particle board). I believe the cause of
this is because the outfeed table is at a very slight decline from the
knives to the end of the table. Would this be the cause? If so, how
do I shim the outfeed table so that it is coplanar with the infeed
table?

TIA,
Shawn

The latest ShopNotes has a great article on how to turn up your jointer as
well as where to apply shims to get the tables even.

(Im sure there are sites on the web for free that will do the exact same
thing as well.)


"Ulfius" wrote in message
oups.com...
I have a Delta 6" Deluxe Jointer (JT360) and continuously get tapered
results - the leading edge becomes thinner than the trailing edge
(tested with a piece of flat particle board). I believe the cause of
this is because the outfeed table is at a very slight decline from the
knives to the end of the table. Would this be the cause? If so, how
do I shim the outfeed table so that it is coplanar with the infeed
table?

TIA,
Shawn

You need to determine what the problem is. You need a long straight edge.
Even up the infeed and outfeed tables and lay a straight edge across both.
Shine a flashlight behind the ruler and look at it the entire length of both
beds. You should quickly see which table is not parallel. You can use a
framing square if you don't have another edge. The amount they are out
should be great enough to overcome any problems in the jointer square. You
then use a piece of feeler gauge or other thin metal stock to lay on the
ways to make them parallel.
max

I have a Delta 6" Deluxe Jointer (JT360) and continuously get tapered
results - the leading edge becomes thinner than the trailing edge
(tested with a piece of flat particle board). I believe the cause of
this is because the outfeed table is at a very slight decline from the
knives to the end of the table. Would this be the cause? If so, how
do I shim the outfeed table so that it is coplanar with the infeed
table?

TIA,
Shawn

I have a Delta 6" Deluxe Jointer (JT360) and continuously get tapered
results - the leading edge becomes thinner than the trailing edge
(tested with a piece of flat particle board). I believe the cause of
this is because the outfeed table is at a very slight decline from the
knives to the end of the table. Would this be the cause? If so, how
do I shim the outfeed table so that it is coplanar with the infeed
table?

TIA,
Shawn


With a good, long straightedge, check for co-planarity at the front, rear and
diagonals. Measure the distance the outfeed has dropped at the end of the table
with a feeler gauge. Loosen the gibs(you may need a friend to help hold it up
so the table doesn't drop off) and insert a shim in each of the ways the
outfeed table(it gets moved less).Different thicknesses of brass stock are
available at the hardware store. Tighten the gibs gently from the top down and
check co-planarity again and ease of motion.You should be able to figure out
after a few attempts just how much the table rises with each piece inserted.
Sorry this is such a truncated explaination. Tom
Work at your leisure!

DY (Tom) wrote:

With a good, long straightedge, check for co-planarity at the front,
rear and diagonals. Measure the distance the outfeed has dropped at
the end of the table with a feeler gauge. Loosen the gibs(you may
need a friend to help hold it up so the table doesn't drop off)

I probably should know this, but what is a "gib"?

I probably should know this, but what is a "gib"?

In this case, it's kind of a setscrew. Tom
Work at your leisure!

On 14 Dec 2004 09:21:46 -0800, "Ulfius" wrote:

I have a Delta 6" Deluxe Jointer (JT360) and continuously get tapered
results - the leading edge becomes thinner than the trailing edge
(tested with a piece of flat particle board).

this jointer had problems 15 years ago and still seems to have them. mine had a
twisted and warped fence got a replacement and it was only warped. the infeed
bed twisted too.

--
Knight-Toolworks & Custom Planes
Custom made wooden planes at reasonable prices
See http://www.knight-toolworks.com For prices and ordering instructions.

I did some tuning up last night after getting all the available
information I could find. Turns out the beds were coplanar, but the
bottom edge of the fence, which I was using as an initial judgement was
not. Once I put a better straight edge on it (my aluminum level), they
were perfect. So after adjusting the knife height and working on my
technique, all came out well.

Thanks everyone.

Shawn

Steve Knight wrote:
On 14 Dec 2004 09:21:46 -0800, "Ulfius" wrote:


I have a Delta 6" Deluxe Jointer (JT360) and continuously get tapered
results - the leading edge becomes thinner than the trailing edge
(tested with a piece of flat particle board).


this jointer had problems 15 years ago and still seems to have them. mine had a
twisted and warped fence got a replacement and it was only warped. the infeed
bed twisted too.