I've wired in a new 220v, 60 gal. air compressor and am in the
processing of plumbing the air lines. At one location I want to
install a separate regulator and something to remove water & oil from
the air. What is a good source to find what I need to do it? Oh, I
live in SoCal; or what's left of it. TIA.
Vic
Redlands

Standard practice is to put in 25 to 50 feet of piping before the first
air drop, with a drip leg with a drain valve, to collect most of the
water before it reaches the regulator, filter, dryer, etc. You need to
consider sloping the lines to the drain valve as well.

Richard


a6016 wrote:
I've wired in a new 220v, 60 gal. air compressor and am in the
processing of plumbing the air lines. At one location I want to
install a separate regulator and something to remove water & oil from
the air. What is a good source to find what I need to do it? Oh, I
live in SoCal; or what's left of it. TIA.
Vic
Redlands



--
http://www.fergusonsculpture.com
Sculptures in copper and other metals

On 24 Dec 2005 08:55:24 -0800, "a6016" wrote:

I've wired in a new 220v, 60 gal. air compressor and am in the
processing of plumbing the air lines. At one location I want to
install a separate regulator and something to remove water & oil from
the air. What is a good source to find what I need to do it? Oh, I
live in SoCal; or what's left of it. TIA.
Vic
Redlands

If you run the air system hard, put an intercooler radiator between
the compressor output and the receiver tank, and a refrigerated air
dryer between the receiver tank and the shop piping system. Between
the two, they will catch most of the moisture before it gets into the
shop system air lines.

And if you've never been told, DO NOT use PVC plastic water pipe for
air line systems, EVER. Much bad mojo when the pipe shatters and
explodes like a grenade, which can land anybody unfortunate enough to
be nearby in the hospital - or worse, the morgue. They make special
plastic pipe that is rated for compressed air use in hazardous
(usually corrosive) industrial applications, but it costs more than
copper. Black iron pipe will eventually rust through and will put
rust scale into your air system, but it won't explode.

You need a drop leg on the air line from the overhead main trunk
line right before the outlet that will catch any condensed water in
the shop air lines, and a petcock or small ball valve to drain it
periodically. The tap off to the drop leg should come off the top of
the trunk line.

(And there should be another drop leg and drain valve at the far end
of the trunk line to drain it also. Belt and suspenders.)

Then a ball valve for servicing.

Then a coalescing air filter - bowl type to catch any oil, water,
and small bits that are in the air (varies from 5 to 1 micron
depending on the element). And check the air flow CFM rating. They
sell these at the Borg if you need it today - Home Depot, Lowe's, good
hardware stores.

Then a pressure regulator with a high enough flow rating to handle
the tool you want to run.

Then if you are running an air tool off that line, a mist
lubricator. And make sure that any air hoses used on this outlet are
ONLY used for air tools, as now they have air tool oil mist inside
them. Oil in painting air is very bad - fish-eyes everywhere.

You can use a different air coupler on those hoses, but it only
works for a one-person shop - there are dummies who will change the
connections and mix that oily tool hose in with your clean painting
hoses, or vice versa.

Or if you are painting, you want a final desiccant air dryer with an
indicator desiccant in it - when the indicator crystals in the
desiccant turn pink, it's time to replace and/or reclaim it in an
oven.

-- Bruce --

--
Bruce L. Bergman, Woodland Hills (Los Angeles) CA - Desktop
Electrician for Westend Electric - CA726700
5737 Kanan Rd. #359, Agoura CA 91301 (818) 889-9545
Spamtrapped address: Remove the python and the invalid, and use a net.

On 24 Dec 2005 08:55:24 -0800, "a6016" wrote:

I've wired in a new 220v, 60 gal. air compressor and am in the
processing of plumbing the air lines. At one location I want to
install a separate regulator and something to remove water & oil from
the air. What is a good source to find what I need to do it? Oh, I
live in SoCal; or what's left of it. TIA.
Vic
Redlands

Make a day trip up to Taft, near Bakersfield, and you can go through
my rather large crate of seperators, regulators and so forth. Free.

Bring a cat carrier.

Gunner

"Pax Americana is a philosophy. Hardly an empire.
Making sure other people play nice and dont kill each other (and us)
off in job lots is hardly empire building, particularly when you give
them self determination under "play nice" rules.

Think of it as having your older brother knock the **** out of you
for torturing the cat." Gunner

"Bruce L. Bergman" wrote in message
...
On 24 Dec 2005 08:55:24 -0800, "a6016" wrote:

I've wired in a new 220v, 60 gal. air compressor and am in the
processing of plumbing the air lines. At one location I want to
install a separate regulator and something to remove water & oil from
the air. What is a good source to find what I need to do it? Oh, I
live in SoCal; or what's left of it. TIA.
Vic
Redlands

If you run the air system hard, put an intercooler radiator between
the compressor output and the receiver tank, and a refrigerated air
dryer between the receiver tank and the shop piping system. Between
the two, they will catch most of the moisture before it gets into the
shop system air lines.

And if you've never been told, DO NOT use PVC plastic water pipe for
air line systems, EVER. Much bad mojo when the pipe shatters and
explodes like a grenade, which can land anybody unfortunate enough to
be nearby in the hospital - or worse, the morgue. They make special
plastic pipe that is rated for compressed air use in hazardous
(usually corrosive) industrial applications, but it costs more than
copper. Black iron pipe will eventually rust through and will put
rust scale into your air system, but it won't explode.

You need a drop leg on the air line from the overhead main trunk
line right before the outlet that will catch any condensed water in
the shop air lines, and a petcock or small ball valve to drain it
periodically. The tap off to the drop leg should come off the top of
the trunk line.

(And there should be another drop leg and drain valve at the far end
of the trunk line to drain it also. Belt and suspenders.)

Then a ball valve for servicing.

Then a coalescing air filter - bowl type to catch any oil, water,
and small bits that are in the air (varies from 5 to 1 micron
depending on the element). And check the air flow CFM rating. They
sell these at the Borg if you need it today - Home Depot, Lowe's, good
hardware stores.

Then a pressure regulator with a high enough flow rating to handle
the tool you want to run.

Then if you are running an air tool off that line, a mist
lubricator. And make sure that any air hoses used on this outlet are
ONLY used for air tools, as now they have air tool oil mist inside
them. Oil in painting air is very bad - fish-eyes everywhere.

You can use a different air coupler on those hoses, but it only
works for a one-person shop - there are dummies who will change the
connections and mix that oily tool hose in with your clean painting
hoses, or vice versa.

Or if you are painting, you want a final desiccant air dryer with an
indicator desiccant in it - when the indicator crystals in the
desiccant turn pink, it's time to replace and/or reclaim it in an
oven.

-- Bruce --

Who makes the dessicant type filters?

Thank you.

Printing this one out!
----------------------------
Mr. P.V.'d
formerly Droll Troll
"Bruce L. Bergman" wrote in message
...
On 24 Dec 2005 08:55:24 -0800, "a6016" wrote:

I've wired in a new 220v, 60 gal. air compressor and am in the
processing of plumbing the air lines. At one location I want to
install a separate regulator and something to remove water & oil from
the air. What is a good source to find what I need to do it? Oh, I
live in SoCal; or what's left of it. TIA.
Vic
Redlands

If you run the air system hard, put an intercooler radiator between
the compressor output and the receiver tank, and a refrigerated air
dryer between the receiver tank and the shop piping system. Between
the two, they will catch most of the moisture before it gets into the
shop system air lines.

And if you've never been told, DO NOT use PVC plastic water pipe for
air line systems, EVER. Much bad mojo when the pipe shatters and
explodes like a grenade, which can land anybody unfortunate enough to
be nearby in the hospital - or worse, the morgue. They make special
plastic pipe that is rated for compressed air use in hazardous
(usually corrosive) industrial applications, but it costs more than
copper. Black iron pipe will eventually rust through and will put
rust scale into your air system, but it won't explode.

You need a drop leg on the air line from the overhead main trunk
line right before the outlet that will catch any condensed water in
the shop air lines, and a petcock or small ball valve to drain it
periodically. The tap off to the drop leg should come off the top of
the trunk line.

(And there should be another drop leg and drain valve at the far end
of the trunk line to drain it also. Belt and suspenders.)

Then a ball valve for servicing.

Then a coalescing air filter - bowl type to catch any oil, water,
and small bits that are in the air (varies from 5 to 1 micron
depending on the element). And check the air flow CFM rating. They
sell these at the Borg if you need it today - Home Depot, Lowe's, good
hardware stores.

Then a pressure regulator with a high enough flow rating to handle
the tool you want to run.

Then if you are running an air tool off that line, a mist
lubricator. And make sure that any air hoses used on this outlet are
ONLY used for air tools, as now they have air tool oil mist inside
them. Oil in painting air is very bad - fish-eyes everywhere.

You can use a different air coupler on those hoses, but it only
works for a one-person shop - there are dummies who will change the
connections and mix that oily tool hose in with your clean painting
hoses, or vice versa.

Or if you are painting, you want a final desiccant air dryer with an
indicator desiccant in it - when the indicator crystals in the
desiccant turn pink, it's time to replace and/or reclaim it in an
oven.

-- Bruce --

--
Bruce L. Bergman, Woodland Hills (Los Angeles) CA - Desktop
Electrician for Westend Electric - CA726700
5737 Kanan Rd. #359, Agoura CA 91301 (818) 889-9545
Spamtrapped address: Remove the python and the invalid, and use a net.

If you run the air system hard, put an intercooler radiator between
the compressor output and the receiver tank, and a refrigerated air
dryer between the receiver tank and the shop piping system. Between
the two, they will catch most of the moisture before it gets into the
shop system air lines.

And if you've never been told, DO NOT use PVC plastic water pipe for
air line systems, EVER. Much bad mojo when the pipe shatters and
explodes like a grenade, which can land anybody unfortunate enough to
be nearby in the hospital - or worse, the morgue. They make special
plastic pipe that is rated for compressed air use in hazardous
(usually corrosive) industrial applications, but it costs more than
copper. Black iron pipe will eventually rust through and will put
rust scale into your air system, but it won't explode.

You need a drop leg on the air line from the overhead main trunk
line right before the outlet that will catch any condensed water in
the shop air lines, and a petcock or small ball valve to drain it
periodically. The tap off to the drop leg should come off the top of
the trunk line.

(And there should be another drop leg and drain valve at the far end
of the trunk line to drain it also. Belt and suspenders.)

Then a ball valve for servicing.

Then a coalescing air filter - bowl type to catch any oil, water,
and small bits that are in the air (varies from 5 to 1 micron
depending on the element). And check the air flow CFM rating. They
sell these at the Borg if you need it today - Home Depot, Lowe's, good
hardware stores.

Then a pressure regulator with a high enough flow rating to handle
the tool you want to run.

Then if you are running an air tool off that line, a mist
lubricator. And make sure that any air hoses used on this outlet are
ONLY used for air tools, as now they have air tool oil mist inside
them. Oil in painting air is very bad - fish-eyes everywhere.

You can use a different air coupler on those hoses, but it only
works for a one-person shop - there are dummies who will change the
connections and mix that oily tool hose in with your clean painting
hoses, or vice versa.

Or if you are painting, you want a final desiccant air dryer with an
indicator desiccant in it - when the indicator crystals in the
desiccant turn pink, it's time to replace and/or reclaim it in an
oven.

-- Bruce --

Holy Crap! You really messed up MY day! All I got is a two horse
compressor and some hose. I never suspected I needed all those things.

Oh, well, like I NEED a reason to go to the tool store.

Steve, who's going to be antsy knowing I need all this stuff, and most
stores closed tomorrow.

On Sat, 24 Dec 2005 21:37:12 -0800, "Steve B"
wrote:

Holy Crap! You really messed up MY day! All I got is a two horse
compressor and some hose. I never suspected I needed all those things.

Oh, well, like I NEED a reason to go to the tool store.

Steve, who's going to be antsy knowing I need all this stuff, and most
stores closed tomorrow.

Relax - you don't need to go that far if all you are doing is
filling a few tires and an occasional tire change with an impact
wrench. But when you go to install a permanent air line plumbing
system in your shop, it's far easier to do it right the first time.

My 4 Horse 80-gallon compressor is still in the front corner of the
garage sitting on it's shipping pallet, next to the 36" solid-core
door I bought for the outside closet - that I still have to build.
With a chunk of 8-3 SO cord plugged into the welder receptacle. A
pipe extension from the tank drain coming out to a 1/4" ball valve.
Oh, yes - And some hose. ;-)

First I need to pour a 3' x 5' slab, build, roof and stucco the
compressor closet outside the garage back door. Move the compressor
out there, bolt it down (with vibration isolation pads under the feet)
and permanently wire it in. Then I can get a vibration flex line for
the tank and run 3/4" M Copper silver-brazed for the trunk line
through the garage, then run the trunk line through the house attic in
the other direction to the back patio which is the default
'woodworking shop'. And then I can hook up the two hose reels...

I'll leave a space for the refrigerated dryer, but I don't plan on
painting any cars in the near future, so that will have to wait till I
either really need it, or I find "An offer I can't refuse."

The only real important things are to keep your tank drained, and
run a regulator so you don't break nail guns or other tools with too
much pressure - especially if you have a two-stage compressor running
over 150 PSI.

You need to have a filter inline if you are running anything dirt or
moisture sensitive (impact wrenches aren't), and add a dessicant dryer
if you are shooting paint. If nothing else, they sell disposable
inline dessicant dryers you simply throw away when they turn pink.

-- Bruce --

--
Bruce L. Bergman, Woodland Hills (Los Angeles) CA - Desktop
Electrician for Westend Electric - CA726700
5737 Kanan Rd. #359, Agoura CA 91301 (818) 889-9545
Spamtrapped address: Remove the python and the invalid, and use a net.

On Sat, 24 Dec 2005 21:37:12 -0800, "Steve B"
wrote:



Holy Crap! You really messed up MY day! All I got is a two horse
compressor and some hose. I never suspected I needed all those things.

Oh, well, like I NEED a reason to go to the tool store.

Steve, who's going to be antsy knowing I need all this stuff, and most
stores closed tomorrow.



It depends on what you are using the machine for. If you don't need
dry air, adding a desiccant dryer is wasting your money and adding a
maintenance point to service the thing.

I have a two horse, 6 gallon portable and some hose that I use to
inflate tires and to blow swarf around into places it shouldn't be.

All I've done is install a Milton #1018 micro filter in front of the
O.E.M. regulator after replacing the regulator a couple of times due
to impurities in the air. It protects the regulator from dirt and
takes out enough moisture to make me happy. The compressor is
oil-less, so oil is not an issue. I'm quite happy with the set up for
what I use it.

Bruce L. Bergman wrote in
:


Or if you are painting, you want a final desiccant air dryer with an
indicator desiccant in it - when the indicator crystals in the
desiccant turn pink, it's time to replace and/or reclaim it in an
oven.

In addition to the excellent advice given by Bruce, I would suggest
automatic timer drains on the tank and your drip leg out of the main
line.
If you can't go for the refrigerated dryer, a 50' coil of copper tubing
ran vertically out of the tank to act as a cooling coil, with about a
3"x12" receiver at the bottom of the coil will help get rid of water.


--
Anthony

You can't 'idiot proof' anything....every time you try, they just make
better idiots.

Remove sp to reply via email

Anthony said:

In addition to the excellent advice given by Bruce, I would suggest
automatic timer drains on the tank and your drip leg out of the main
line.

A simpler and less expensive method might be to add an auto "level"
drain inside your filter. Wilkerson and other manufacturers offer a
small float operated drain for very little $.

dennis
in nca

p.s. Grainger's used to have a page or two in their catalog addressing
proper air system design; anyone have a copy around?

Gunner - is that a C.A.T. or kitty Cat ! - Sounds like a local explosion occurred.
Oh - the earthquake a few months ago... :-)

Martin

Martin Eastburn
@ home at Lions' Lair with our computer lionslair at consolidated dot net
NRA LOH & Endowment Member
NRA Second Amendment Task Force Charter Founder



Gunner Asch wrote:
On 24 Dec 2005 08:55:24 -0800, "a6016" wrote:


I've wired in a new 220v, 60 gal. air compressor and am in the
processing of plumbing the air lines. At one location I want to
install a separate regulator and something to remove water & oil from
the air. What is a good source to find what I need to do it? Oh, I
live in SoCal; or what's left of it. TIA.
Vic
Redlands


Make a day trip up to Taft, near Bakersfield, and you can go through
my rather large crate of seperators, regulators and so forth. Free.

Bring a cat carrier.

Gunner

"Pax Americana is a philosophy. Hardly an empire.
Making sure other people play nice and dont kill each other (and us)
off in job lots is hardly empire building, particularly when you give
them self determination under "play nice" rules.

Think of it as having your older brother knock the **** out of you
for torturing the cat." Gunner

----== Posted via Newsfeeds.Com - Unlimited-Unrestricted-Secure Usenet News==----
http://www.newsfeeds.com The #1 Newsgroup Service in the World! 120,000+ Newsgroups
----= East and West-Coast Server Farms - Total Privacy via Encryption =----

On Sun, 25 Dec 2005 22:04:28 -0600, "Martin H. Eastburn"
wrote:

Gunner - is that a C.A.T. or kitty Cat ! - Sounds like a local explosion occurred.
Oh - the earthquake a few months ago... :-)

Martin

Martin Eastburn
@ home at Lions' Lair with our computer lionslair at consolidated dot net
NRA LOH & Endowment Member
NRA Second Amendment Task Force Charter Founder

Kitty Cat of course. While a lot of my stuff is free..there is a toll
to pay.

G

Gunner




Gunner Asch wrote:
On 24 Dec 2005 08:55:24 -0800, "a6016" wrote:


I've wired in a new 220v, 60 gal. air compressor and am in the
processing of plumbing the air lines. At one location I want to
install a separate regulator and something to remove water & oil from
the air. What is a good source to find what I need to do it? Oh, I
live in SoCal; or what's left of it. TIA.
Vic
Redlands


Make a day trip up to Taft, near Bakersfield, and you can go through
my rather large crate of seperators, regulators and so forth. Free.

Bring a cat carrier.

Gunner

"Pax Americana is a philosophy. Hardly an empire.
Making sure other people play nice and dont kill each other (and us)
off in job lots is hardly empire building, particularly when you give
them self determination under "play nice" rules.

Think of it as having your older brother knock the **** out of you
for torturing the cat." Gunner

----== Posted via Newsfeeds.Com - Unlimited-Unrestricted-Secure Usenet News==----
http://www.newsfeeds.com The #1 Newsgroup Service in the World! 120,000+ Newsgroups
----= East and West-Coast Server Farms - Total Privacy via Encryption =----

"Pax Americana is a philosophy. Hardly an empire.
Making sure other people play nice and dont kill each other (and us)
off in job lots is hardly empire building, particularly when you give
them self determination under "play nice" rules.

Think of it as having your older brother knock the **** out of you
for torturing the cat." Gunner

All good suggestions. If you are piping air, here are a few more ;
1. If your main air pipe is overhead, make your pipe taps off of the
top of the air line, in other words the tee points up and you elbow
down to the outlet.
2. Be sure to put a blow down valve at the end of the line.
3. If you put in drains or drip legs, place the valves where they are
easilly accessable.

Bob