I am repairing a wall mounted gas heater. These are often found in
hallways of many apartments in San Francisco, and probably in many other
parts of the country as well.

The pilot light would not stay lit, so my first thought was to take a
look at the thermocouple. It looked old and worn, so I replaced it.

After reassembling the heater and lighting the pilot light, it stayed
lit without a problem and the heater worked again as it should.

Unfortunately, it was not just the pilot light that stayed lit. Gas was
also burning through a small leak below the brass nut (at red arrow in
bottom picture at http://www.abrasha.com/misc/heater_536.htm) that
attaches the "pilot tube" to the pilot light assembly. The pilot tube
connects the gas valve to the pilot light assembly. (see top picture)

I took the tube off, to see if there was dirt in there that prevented a
good seal. No dirt. However, the small brass fitting, that sits inside
the nut when attached properly,around the top of the aluminum tube is
looses around the tube on that end of the tube. I reattached the tube
and tested with soapy water (see bottom image at
http://www.abrasha.com/misc/heater_536.htm). Leak is still there, as
witnessed by soap bubbles. Obviously I need to replace the tube.

I now have trouble locating a replacement pilot tube. Does anyone know
where I might be able to get one around San Francisco?

Any leads appreciated.
--
Abrasha
http://www.abrasha.com

Try some teflon tape around the threads.
73 Gary

Looks like a standard flare fitting, try an automotive brake shop. You
might be able to make a new flare after cutting off the bad one.

"Abrasha" wrote in message
...
I am repairing a wall mounted gas heater. These are often found in
hallways of many apartments in San Francisco, and probably in many other
parts of the country as well.

The pilot light would not stay lit, so my first thought was to take a look
at the thermocouple. It looked old and worn, so I replaced it.

After reassembling the heater and lighting the pilot light, it stayed lit
without a problem and the heater worked again as it should.

Unfortunately, it was not just the pilot light that stayed lit. Gas was
also burning through a small leak below the brass nut (at red arrow in
bottom picture at http://www.abrasha.com/misc/heater_536.htm) that
attaches the "pilot tube" to the pilot light assembly. The pilot tube
connects the gas valve to the pilot light assembly. (see top picture)

I took the tube off, to see if there was dirt in there that prevented a
good seal. No dirt. However, the small brass fitting, that sits inside
the nut when attached properly,around the top of the aluminum tube is
looses around the tube on that end of the tube. I reattached the tube and
tested with soapy water (see bottom image at
http://www.abrasha.com/misc/heater_536.htm). Leak is still there, as
witnessed by soap bubbles. Obviously I need to replace the tube.

I now have trouble locating a replacement pilot tube. Does anyone know
where I might be able to get one around San Francisco?

Any leads appreciated.
--
Abrasha
http://www.abrasha.com

On Mon, 19 Dec 2005 08:59:31 -0800, Abrasha
wrote:

I am repairing a wall mounted gas heater. These are often found in
hallways of many apartments in San Francisco, and probably in many other
parts of the country as well.

The pilot light would not stay lit, so my first thought was to take a
look at the thermocouple. It looked old and worn, so I replaced it.

After reassembling the heater and lighting the pilot light, it stayed
lit without a problem and the heater worked again as it should.

Unfortunately, it was not just the pilot light that stayed lit. Gas was
also burning through a small leak below the brass nut (at red arrow in
bottom picture at http://www.abrasha.com/misc/heater_536.htm) that
attaches the "pilot tube" to the pilot light assembly. The pilot tube
connects the gas valve to the pilot light assembly. (see top picture)

I took the tube off, to see if there was dirt in there that prevented a
good seal. No dirt. However, the small brass fitting, that sits inside
the nut when attached properly,around the top of the aluminum tube is
looses around the tube on that end of the tube. I reattached the tube
and tested with soapy water (see bottom image at
http://www.abrasha.com/misc/heater_536.htm). Leak is still there, as
witnessed by soap bubbles. Obviously I need to replace the tube.

I now have trouble locating a replacement pilot tube. Does anyone know
where I might be able to get one around San Francisco?

Any leads appreciated.

That looks like a compression fitting, not a flare, particularly since
you mention a small brass fitting inside. If it looks like a little
brass ring with tapered front and back, it's a compression fitting.
Not a good choice for gas, particularly with aluminum tubing, but if
that's what you have, then you're stuck with it.

Get a new brass ring at the hardware store. Cut about 1/2" off the
end of the tube with a tubing cutter, install the threaded part and
then the brass ring, reassemble and torque it just until it quits
leaking.

The old one may have necked down the tube by overtorquing. Cutting
off a bit of the tube should take care of that.

Gary wrote:
Try some teflon tape around the threads.
73 Gary


It's not the threads that are leaking.

Besides, we are dealing with something that gets rather hot when the
burners are on, so the tape would melt.

Abrasha
http://www.abrasha.com

Tom Gardner wrote:
Looks like a standard flare fitting, try an automotive brake shop. You
might be able to make a new flare after cutting off the bad one.


It is a standard flare fitting (didn't know that it was called that),
and the brass ring in side the threaded nut that the tube goes through
is loose around the aluminum tube at the pilot light end.

If nothing else, could I get the parts, i.e. tube, round "thingies" for
the ends, threaded nuts, and a flare tool, and do it myself.

If so, where do I go to get all this.

Abrasha
http://www.abrasha.com

That's either a standard double-flare fitting, or more likely a slip-on
machined flare nut (not the brass sleeve type) and flared tube end.
Common with lots of HVAC stuff, especially oil fired burner fittings.
Check the local HVAC shop.
JR
Dweller in the cellar

Abrasha wrote:
I am repairing a wall mounted gas heater. These are often found in
hallways of many apartments in San Francisco, and probably in many other
parts of the country as well.

The pilot light would not stay lit, so my first thought was to take a
look at the thermocouple. It looked old and worn, so I replaced it.

After reassembling the heater and lighting the pilot light, it stayed
lit without a problem and the heater worked again as it should.

Unfortunately, it was not just the pilot light that stayed lit. Gas was
also burning through a small leak below the brass nut (at red arrow in
bottom picture at http://www.abrasha.com/misc/heater_536.htm) that
attaches the "pilot tube" to the pilot light assembly. The pilot tube
connects the gas valve to the pilot light assembly. (see top picture)

I took the tube off, to see if there was dirt in there that prevented a
good seal. No dirt. However, the small brass fitting, that sits inside
the nut when attached properly,around the top of the aluminum tube is
looses around the tube on that end of the tube. I reattached the tube
and tested with soapy water (see bottom image at
http://www.abrasha.com/misc/heater_536.htm). Leak is still there, as
witnessed by soap bubbles. Obviously I need to replace the tube.

I now have trouble locating a replacement pilot tube. Does anyone know
where I might be able to get one around San Francisco?

Any leads appreciated.


--
--------------------------------------------------------------
Home Page: http://www.seanet.com/~jasonrnorth
If you're not the lead dog, the view never changes
Doubt yourself, and the real world will eat you alive
The world doesn't revolve around you, it revolves around me
No skeletons in the closet; just decomposing corpses
--------------------------------------------------------------
Dependence is Vulnerability:
--------------------------------------------------------------
"Open the Pod Bay Doors please, Hal"
"I'm sorry, Dave, I'm afraid I can't do that.."

Don Foreman wrote:

That looks like a compression fitting, not a flare, particularly since
you mention a small brass fitting inside. If it looks like a little
brass ring with tapered front and back, it's a compression fitting.

That is indeed what it looks like. On the pilot light side of the tube,
this brass ring is loose around the aluminum tube. On the other side it
is rigid.

I have added a couple of photos of both ends of the tube on my site.
The top photo is of the bad one, the bottom one is the good one. You
can clearly see that the brass ring in the top photo is shorter
(compressed more?) than the bottom one. The ring is loose around the
aluminum tube. In the "good" end, the brass ring is tight around the tube.
http://www.abrasha.com/misc/heater_536.htm

Not a good choice for gas, particularly with aluminum tubing, but if
that's what you have, then you're stuck with it.

Get a new brass ring at the hardware store. Cut about 1/2" off the
end of the tube with a tubing cutter, install the threaded part and
then the brass ring, reassemble and torque it just until it quits
leaking.

Wouldn't I need to somehow make a tight fit between the new brass ring
and the aluminum tube first, before I reassemble the parts?

Abrasha
http://www.abrasha.com

In your picture it looks more like the leak is below the brass nut, (in
fact you said this). I suspect the aluminum tubing may be porous due to
corrosion. I would get a suitable length of copper tubing and a tubing
bender - a device that looks like a spring that you slide over the
tubing to prevent kinking when you bend it. I would also buy 2
conventional compression tubing fittings for the tubing of that size
(probabaly 1/4 ").
I found that with a propane burner that I'm working on I could use the
ferrules from the conventional fittings with the nuts from the pilot
tubing and get a tight fit.
Engineman


Don Foreman wrote:
On Mon, 19 Dec 2005 08:59:31 -0800, Abrasha
wrote:

I am repairing a wall mounted gas heater. These are often found in
hallways of many apartments in San Francisco, and probably in many other
parts of the country as well.

The pilot light would not stay lit, so my first thought was to take a
look at the thermocouple. It looked old and worn, so I replaced it.

After reassembling the heater and lighting the pilot light, it stayed
lit without a problem and the heater worked again as it should.

Unfortunately, it was not just the pilot light that stayed lit. Gas was
also burning through a small leak below the brass nut (at red arrow in
bottom picture at http://www.abrasha.com/misc/heater_536.htm) that
attaches the "pilot tube" to the pilot light assembly. The pilot tube
connects the gas valve to the pilot light assembly. (see top picture)

I took the tube off, to see if there was dirt in there that prevented a
good seal. No dirt. However, the small brass fitting, that sits inside
the nut when attached properly,around the top of the aluminum tube is
looses around the tube on that end of the tube. I reattached the tube
and tested with soapy water (see bottom image at
http://www.abrasha.com/misc/heater_536.htm). Leak is still there, as
witnessed by soap bubbles. Obviously I need to replace the tube.

I now have trouble locating a replacement pilot tube. Does anyone know
where I might be able to get one around San Francisco?

Any leads appreciated.

That looks like a compression fitting, not a flare, particularly since
you mention a small brass fitting inside. If it looks like a little
brass ring with tapered front and back, it's a compression fitting.
Not a good choice for gas, particularly with aluminum tubing, but if
that's what you have, then you're stuck with it.

Get a new brass ring at the hardware store. Cut about 1/2" off the
end of the tube with a tubing cutter, install the threaded part and
then the brass ring, reassemble and torque it just until it quits
leaking.

The old one may have necked down the tube by overtorquing. Cutting
off a bit of the tube should take care of that.

"Abrasha" wrote in message
. ..
Tom Gardner wrote:
Looks like a standard flare fitting, try an automotive brake shop. You
might be able to make a new flare after cutting off the bad one.


It is a standard flare fitting (didn't know that it was called that), and
the brass ring in side the threaded nut that the tube goes through is
loose around the aluminum tube at the pilot light end.

If nothing else, could I get the parts, i.e. tube, round "thingies" for
the ends, threaded nuts, and a flare tool, and do it myself.

If so, where do I go to get all this.

Abrasha
http://www.abrasha.com

I recant my opinion and now think it is a compression fitting like Don says.
Should be standard fare at a real hardware store. The brass "ring" might be
more like a ferule?

I looked at the pix and it is a compression fitting...not repairable without
replacing the ferule. Still standard stuff just measure the tube od, looks
like 3/8" or 5"16". Find a "REAL" hardware store!

"Abrasha" wrote in message
. ..
Tom Gardner wrote:
Looks like a standard flare fitting, try an automotive brake shop. You
might be able to make a new flare after cutting off the bad one.


It is a standard flare fitting (didn't know that it was called that), and
the brass ring in side the threaded nut that the tube goes through is
loose around the aluminum tube at the pilot light end.

If nothing else, could I get the parts, i.e. tube, round "thingies" for
the ends, threaded nuts, and a flare tool, and do it myself.

If so, where do I go to get all this.

Abrasha
http://www.abrasha.com

Abrasha wrote:

Wouldn't I need to somehow make a tight fit between the new brass ring
and the aluminum tube first, before I reassemble the parts?

Abrasha
http://www.abrasha.com

No, that's part of the "compression" in "compression fitting" -- as you
tighten things the double-taper on the ferrule makes it shrink (some are
split, IIRC) so that it squeezes onto the tube and makes a seal.

I don't have any experience with mixed-metal compression fittings but
I'm deeply suspicious of such a critter in an application where the
temperature swings back and forth -- how long did the current
installation last, and could the aluminum tubing be an incorrect
replacement for copper?

--

Tim Wescott
Wescott Design Services
http://www.wescottdesign.com

Forget trying to tape the threads. There is NO sealing there. The
sealing comes from the compression of the ferrule. Bill.

Abrasha wrote:
I am repairing a wall mounted gas heater. These are often found in
hallways of many apartments in San Francisco, and probably in many other
parts of the country as well.

The pilot light would not stay lit, so my first thought was to take a
look at the thermocouple. It looked old and worn, so I replaced it.

After reassembling the heater and lighting the pilot light, it stayed
lit without a problem and the heater worked again as it should.

Unfortunately, it was not just the pilot light that stayed lit. Gas was
also burning through a small leak below the brass nut (at red arrow in
bottom picture at http://www.abrasha.com/misc/heater_536.htm) that
attaches the "pilot tube" to the pilot light assembly. The pilot tube
connects the gas valve to the pilot light assembly. (see top picture)

I took the tube off, to see if there was dirt in there that prevented a
good seal. No dirt. However, the small brass fitting, that sits inside
the nut when attached properly,around the top of the aluminum tube is
looses around the tube on that end of the tube. I reattached the tube
and tested with soapy water (see bottom image at
http://www.abrasha.com/misc/heater_536.htm). Leak is still there, as
witnessed by soap bubbles. Obviously I need to replace the tube.

I now have trouble locating a replacement pilot tube. Does anyone know
where I might be able to get one around San Francisco?

Any leads appreciated.


The brass ferrule on aluminium tube is not an uncommon setup on
natural gas pilot burners, at least around here (New England). Around
here most any well stocked plumbing/heating supply places will have a
kit to replace either that tube or the entire tube/pilot burner unit,
that includes the ferrules, tube and misc."universal" mounting hardware.
Generally won't find them in 95% of hardware stores, even the pretty
good ones.

If all else fails there is always good old WW Grainger:

http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/wwg...mId=1613553887

That is a link to a 1/4" pilot burner tube kit, includes nuts,
ferrules, etc. Check the size you need, it may be different. Being soft
tubing, it is generally measured on the OD.

Hope that helps,

Al A.

I had a heater just like this and I had a similar problem. I got a new
ferrel at the hardware store, cut off the old one and re-instaled
without problem. Make sure you finish off the edge you cut so it's not
rough and that is is straight across the pipe - not beveled.

Greg

I had a heater just like this and I had a similar problem. I got a new
ferrel at the hardware store, cut off the old one and re-instaled
without problem. Make sure you finish off the edge you cut so it's not
rough and that is is straight across the pipe - not beveled.

Greg

I bet that for safety reasons - you have to buy a replacement. Good luck!
Martin Eastburn
@ home at Lions' Lair with our computer lionslair at consolidated dot net
NRA LOH & Endowment Member
NRA Second Amendment Task Force Charter Founder



Abrasha wrote:
I am repairing a wall mounted gas heater. These are often found in
hallways of many apartments in San Francisco, and probably in many other
parts of the country as well.

The pilot light would not stay lit, so my first thought was to take a
look at the thermocouple. It looked old and worn, so I replaced it.

After reassembling the heater and lighting the pilot light, it stayed
lit without a problem and the heater worked again as it should.

Unfortunately, it was not just the pilot light that stayed lit. Gas was
also burning through a small leak below the brass nut (at red arrow in
bottom picture at http://www.abrasha.com/misc/heater_536.htm) that
attaches the "pilot tube" to the pilot light assembly. The pilot tube
connects the gas valve to the pilot light assembly. (see top picture)

I took the tube off, to see if there was dirt in there that prevented a
good seal. No dirt. However, the small brass fitting, that sits inside
the nut when attached properly,around the top of the aluminum tube is
looses around the tube on that end of the tube. I reattached the tube
and tested with soapy water (see bottom image at
http://www.abrasha.com/misc/heater_536.htm). Leak is still there, as
witnessed by soap bubbles. Obviously I need to replace the tube.

I now have trouble locating a replacement pilot tube. Does anyone know
where I might be able to get one around San Francisco?

Any leads appreciated.

----== Posted via Newsfeeds.Com - Unlimited-Unrestricted-Secure Usenet News==----
http://www.newsfeeds.com The #1 Newsgroup Service in the World! 120,000+ Newsgroups
----= East and West-Coast Server Farms - Total Privacy via Encryption =----

That looks like a flare nut connection - and you have a nice lazy gas line -
Plenty of metal to cut off the end and then re-flare and re-mount.
Hope that is what it is. Re-flaring kits are low cost.

Martin
Martin Eastburn
@ home at Lions' Lair with our computer lionslair at consolidated dot net
NRA LOH & Endowment Member
NRA Second Amendment Task Force Charter Founder



Abrasha wrote:
I am repairing a wall mounted gas heater. These are often found in
hallways of many apartments in San Francisco, and probably in many other
parts of the country as well.

The pilot light would not stay lit, so my first thought was to take a
look at the thermocouple. It looked old and worn, so I replaced it.

After reassembling the heater and lighting the pilot light, it stayed
lit without a problem and the heater worked again as it should.

Unfortunately, it was not just the pilot light that stayed lit. Gas was
also burning through a small leak below the brass nut (at red arrow in
bottom picture at http://www.abrasha.com/misc/heater_536.htm) that
attaches the "pilot tube" to the pilot light assembly. The pilot tube
connects the gas valve to the pilot light assembly. (see top picture)

I took the tube off, to see if there was dirt in there that prevented a
good seal. No dirt. However, the small brass fitting, that sits inside
the nut when attached properly,around the top of the aluminum tube is
looses around the tube on that end of the tube. I reattached the tube
and tested with soapy water (see bottom image at
http://www.abrasha.com/misc/heater_536.htm). Leak is still there, as
witnessed by soap bubbles. Obviously I need to replace the tube.

I now have trouble locating a replacement pilot tube. Does anyone know
where I might be able to get one around San Francisco?

Any leads appreciated.

----== Posted via Newsfeeds.Com - Unlimited-Unrestricted-Secure Usenet News==----
http://www.newsfeeds.com The #1 Newsgroup Service in the World! 120,000+ Newsgroups
----= East and West-Coast Server Farms - Total Privacy via Encryption =----

What you do is buy a new flare nut - complete.
Discard the old one.

A plummer could help you - have a friend ?
Martin
Martin Eastburn
@ home at Lions' Lair with our computer lionslair at consolidated dot net
NRA LOH & Endowment Member
NRA Second Amendment Task Force Charter Founder



Abrasha wrote:
Tom Gardner wrote:

Looks like a standard flare fitting, try an automotive brake shop.
You might be able to make a new flare after cutting off the bad one.


It is a standard flare fitting (didn't know that it was called that),
and the brass ring in side the threaded nut that the tube goes through
is loose around the aluminum tube at the pilot light end.

If nothing else, could I get the parts, i.e. tube, round "thingies" for
the ends, threaded nuts, and a flare tool, and do it myself.

If so, where do I go to get all this.

Abrasha
http://www.abrasha.com

----== Posted via Newsfeeds.Com - Unlimited-Unrestricted-Secure Usenet News==----
http://www.newsfeeds.com The #1 Newsgroup Service in the World! 120,000+ Newsgroups
----= East and West-Coast Server Farms - Total Privacy via Encryption =----

Hey Abrasha,

Somebody mentioned using Teflon tape on the threads of the fitting,
and somebody else said it's not the threads that are leaking, and that
the Teflon won't stand up to the heat.

Teflon isn't only to "seal" the threads, but to make them "slippery"
so that you can tighten the fitting better/tighter, which would
probably help in your case. And here in Canada, we have to use the
"yellow" packaged Teflon tape that is approved for use in gas
applications. Ask at the hardware store.

Take care.

Brian Lawson,
Bothwell, Ontario.
XXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXX

Abrasha wrote:
I am repairing a wall mounted gas heater. These are often found in
hallways of many apartments in San Francisco, and probably in many other
parts of the country as well.

The pilot light would not stay lit, so my first thought was to take a
look at the thermocouple. It looked old and worn, so I replaced it.

After reassembling the heater and lighting the pilot light, it stayed
lit without a problem and the heater worked again as it should.

Unfortunately, it was not just the pilot light that stayed lit. Gas was
also burning through a small leak below the brass nut (at red arrow in
bottom picture at http://www.abrasha.com/misc/heater_536.htm) that
attaches the "pilot tube" to the pilot light assembly. The pilot tube
connects the gas valve to the pilot light assembly. (see top picture)

I took the tube off, to see if there was dirt in there that prevented a
good seal. No dirt. However, the small brass fitting, that sits inside
the nut when attached properly,around the top of the aluminum tube is
looses around the tube on that end of the tube. I reattached the tube
and tested with soapy water (see bottom image at
http://www.abrasha.com/misc/heater_536.htm). Leak is still there, as
witnessed by soap bubbles. Obviously I need to replace the tube.

I now have trouble locating a replacement pilot tube. Does anyone know
where I might be able to get one around San Francisco?

Any leads appreciated.

Most gas companies will fix these things for free, at least here in
California. They really hate it when a gas appliance kills somebody.

On Mon, 19 Dec 2005 08:59:31 -0800, Abrasha
wrote:

Unfortunately, it was not just the pilot light that stayed lit. Gas was
also burning through a small leak below the brass nut (at red arrow in
bottom picture at http://www.abrasha.com/misc/heater_536.htm) that
attaches the "pilot tube" to the pilot light assembly. The pilot tube
connects the gas valve to the pilot light assembly. (see top picture)

Those compression fittings are unique to pilot lights - they look
like the same fitting used on a water line, but they're not. They are
machined as a single piece and the ferrule snaps away from the nut
when you tighten it all up.

Go to a HVAC supply store and get a small coil of the 1/8" AL pilot
line tubing and a small batch of the right fittings. Because the AL
work hardens and cracks, if you try cutting and bending the existing
tubing to make it hit the connections you're liable to have a new
leak.

Same thing if the old tubing gets even the tiniest bit scarred up by
the tubing cutter, the ferrule won't make a seal.

-- Bruce --

--
Bruce L. Bergman, Woodland Hills (Los Angeles) CA - Desktop
Electrician for Westend Electric - CA726700
5737 Kanan Rd. #359, Agoura CA 91301 (818) 889-9545
Spamtrapped address: Remove the python and the invalid, and use a net.

Its not a flare fitting, it's a compression fitting and you need a new
brass compression sleeve. Go to a HVAC shop & get one from them. Better
yet, pay them to fix it, as it is illegal to work on gas heaters
without a license. If this is an apartment building or public place you
are taking on a terrible liability exposure by trying to do it yourself
without proper training.
Bugs

daniel peterman wrote:

Most gas companies will fix these things for free, at least here in
California. They really hate it when a gas appliance kills somebody.

Indeed. I also noticed when they quietly dropped the "safe" part from
their advertising campaigns. Probably due to a threat of a false
advertising lawsuit.

Pete C.

Bruce L. Bergman wrote:
On Mon, 19 Dec 2005 08:59:31 -0800, Abrasha
wrote:


Unfortunately, it was not just the pilot light that stayed lit. Gas was
also burning through a small leak below the brass nut (at red arrow in
bottom picture at http://www.abrasha.com/misc/heater_536.htm) that
attaches the "pilot tube" to the pilot light assembly. The pilot tube
connects the gas valve to the pilot light assembly. (see top picture)


Those compression fittings are unique to pilot lights - they look
like the same fitting used on a water line, but they're not. They are
machined as a single piece and the ferrule snaps away from the nut
when you tighten it all up.

You are right. That is exactly what I got today at the "real" hardware
store. It helps to know that the part I was looking for is called a
"Compression Control Nut".

BTW, the "real" hardware store I usually go to, the one where all the
professionals go every morning judging from all their pick up trucks at
7:30 AM, didn't have these parts.

We have a few damned good hardware stores here in SF. I always dread
having to go to Home Depot for anything.

And you are right that they are machined as a single piece. The person
who helped me, said that the double bevel ferrule will snap away when I
tighten the nut.


Go to a HVAC supply store and get a small coil of the 1/8" AL pilot
line tubing and a small batch of the right fittings.

The tube I needed was 1/4".

Because the AL
work hardens and cracks, if you try cutting and bending the existing
tubing to make it hit the connections you're liable to have a new
leak.

Same thing if the old tubing gets even the tiniest bit scarred up by
the tubing cutter, the ferrule won't make a seal.

-- Bruce --



--
Abrasha
http://www.abrasha.com

Someone said it was a compression type - has a dual slope 'washer' and it compresses
onto the tube.

Now I remember it is often used in gas.

Martin
Martin Eastburn
@ home at Lions' Lair with our computer lionslair at consolidated dot net
NRA LOH & Endowment Member
NRA Second Amendment Task Force Charter Founder



Martin H. Eastburn wrote:
That looks like a flare nut connection - and you have a nice lazy gas
line -
Plenty of metal to cut off the end and then re-flare and re-mount.
Hope that is what it is. Re-flaring kits are low cost.

Martin
Martin Eastburn
@ home at Lions' Lair with our computer lionslair at consolidated dot net
NRA LOH & Endowment Member
NRA Second Amendment Task Force Charter Founder



Abrasha wrote:

I am repairing a wall mounted gas heater. These are often found in
hallways of many apartments in San Francisco, and probably in many
other parts of the country as well.

The pilot light would not stay lit, so my first thought was to take a
look at the thermocouple. It looked old and worn, so I replaced it.

After reassembling the heater and lighting the pilot light, it stayed
lit without a problem and the heater worked again as it should.

Unfortunately, it was not just the pilot light that stayed lit. Gas
was also burning through a small leak below the brass nut (at red
arrow in bottom picture at http://www.abrasha.com/misc/heater_536.htm)
that attaches the "pilot tube" to the pilot light assembly. The pilot
tube connects the gas valve to the pilot light assembly. (see top
picture)

I took the tube off, to see if there was dirt in there that prevented
a good seal. No dirt. However, the small brass fitting, that sits
inside the nut when attached properly,around the top of the aluminum
tube is looses around the tube on that end of the tube. I reattached
the tube and tested with soapy water (see bottom image at
http://www.abrasha.com/misc/heater_536.htm). Leak is still there, as
witnessed by soap bubbles. Obviously I need to replace the tube.

I now have trouble locating a replacement pilot tube. Does anyone
know where I might be able to get one around San Francisco?

Any leads appreciated.


----== Posted via Newsfeeds.Com - Unlimited-Unrestricted-Secure Usenet
News==----
http://www.newsfeeds.com The #1 Newsgroup Service in the World! 120,000+
Newsgroups
----= East and West-Coast Server Farms - Total Privacy via Encryption =----

----== Posted via Newsfeeds.Com - Unlimited-Unrestricted-Secure Usenet News==----
http://www.newsfeeds.com The #1 Newsgroup Service in the World! 120,000+ Newsgroups
----= East and West-Coast Server Farms - Total Privacy via Encryption =----