Pete C. wrote:

You might want to try some of that "fixturing alloy" you can get from
MSC/Enco/McMaster. Since it melts at such a low temp you might be able
to directly cast it into the plastic wheels.

Yeah... but you'll still need to machine it in place to balance.

And don't let the cub scout handle the stuff unsupervised - same goes
for the lead really.

4 wheel weights of lead may easily exceed the 5 oz limit... what about
using some more ordinary engineering material such as free-machining
brass?

On 7 Nov 2005 08:49:09 -0800, wrote:
Pete C. wrote:

You might want to try some of that "fixturing alloy" you can get from
MSC/Enco/McMaster. Since it melts at such a low temp you might be able
to directly cast it into the plastic wheels.

Yeah... but you'll still need to machine it in place to balance.
And don't let the cub scout handle the stuff unsupervised - same goes
for the lead really.

Well, let's be realistic. Handling lead isn't going to make 'em start
twitching.

4 wheel weights of lead may easily exceed the 5 oz limit... what about
using some more ordinary engineering material such as free-machining
brass?

Drill holes in the underside of the body with a spade bit, and cast the
lead directly into them. Drill to reduce to legal weight.

Dave Hinz wrote:

On 7 Nov 2005 08:49:09 -0800, wrote:
Pete C. wrote:

You might want to try some of that "fixturing alloy" you can get from
MSC/Enco/McMaster. Since it melts at such a low temp you might be able
to directly cast it into the plastic wheels.

Yeah... but you'll still need to machine it in place to balance.
And don't let the cub scout handle the stuff unsupervised - same goes
for the lead really.

Well, let's be realistic. Handling lead isn't going to make 'em start
twitching.

4 wheel weights of lead may easily exceed the 5 oz limit... what about
using some more ordinary engineering material such as free-machining
brass?

Drill holes in the underside of the body with a spade bit, and cast the
lead directly into them. Drill to reduce to legal weight.

I believe the "fixturing alloy" currently sold by MSC and Co. is lead
free.

Pete C.

"Pete C." wrote in message
...
Dave Hinz wrote:
Drill holes in the underside of the body with a spade bit, and cast the
lead directly into them. Drill to reduce to legal weight.


When my son cubbed, we drilled out his pinewood body, and filled it with #7
shot, with a quick-release "Moog Headers" decal over the hole, so we could
reduce the weight if the officials' scales weren't exactly the same
calibration as ours.

I engineered, but the kid actually did the cutting.

LLoyd

On Mon, 07 Nov 2005 19:44:56 GMT, Pete C. wrote:
Dave Hinz wrote:

Well, let's be realistic. Handling lead isn't going to make 'em start
twitching.

Drill holes in the underside of the body with a spade bit, and cast the
lead directly into them. Drill to reduce to legal weight.

I believe the "fixturing alloy" currently sold by MSC and Co. is lead
free.

And therefore significantly lighter. I'll repeat my statement that,
while lead is a hazard, it's certainly a manageable one. Overreacting
isn't the lesson to teach on this one - if anything, it's a great way to
teach "Yes, this could be a hazard, so to avoid problems we do (this,
that, the other)".

Dave Hinz

if anything, it's a great way to teach "Yes,
this could be a hazard, so to avoid
problems we do (this, that, the other)".

Yep. Same thing when it comes to firearms. My dad, begin an excellent
gunsmith as well as a phenomenal tool and die man, always had guns in
the house, in various stages of repair and fully functional.

I shot my first rifle (.22) when I was 4. My first handgun when I was
6. Dad always had the policy that if you wanted to shoot, just ask and
he'd take you shooting, but if we EVER touched a gun without his
immediate authorization and supervision, we'd not be touching one for a
long, long time. We'd probably not be sitting down for a bit longer
than that too.

Worked for me and my sister.

My oldest shot his first rifle at 4, same .22 that was mine. We've got
the same policy for swords (he's got a nice collection of them he
really enjoys looking at and showing of) as well as their bows.

My son was at a friends house and his friend found a pistol (had a
trigger lock and wasn't loaded). My son asked to hold it and took it
straight to his friends dad.

Teach 'em proper handling of dangerous things and they'll be a lot
safer than if you isolate them.

Tillman

Dave Hinz wrote:

On Mon, 07 Nov 2005 19:44:56 GMT, Pete C. wrote:
Dave Hinz wrote:

Well, let's be realistic. Handling lead isn't going to make 'em start
twitching.

Drill holes in the underside of the body with a spade bit, and cast the
lead directly into them. Drill to reduce to legal weight.

I believe the "fixturing alloy" currently sold by MSC and Co. is lead
free.

And therefore significantly lighter. I'll repeat my statement that,
while lead is a hazard, it's certainly a manageable one. Overreacting
isn't the lesson to teach on this one - if anything, it's a great way to
teach "Yes, this could be a hazard, so to avoid problems we do (this,
that, the other)".

Dave Hinz

Wasn't my point though. I suggested it due to the very low melt temp
which should be more compatible with direct application to plastic
wheels. Lead free is just a side benefit.

Pete C.

In article ,
Dave Hinz wrote:


Drill holes in the underside of the body with a spade bit, and cast the
lead directly into them. Drill to reduce to legal weight.


Or just drill a bunch of 5/16" holes and epoxy 30 cal cast bullets in
them.

--
Free men own guns, slaves don't
www.geocities.com/CapitolHill/5357/

On Mon, 07 Nov 2005 22:01:10 GMT, Nick Hull wrote:
In article ,
Dave Hinz wrote:


Drill holes in the underside of the body with a spade bit, and cast the
lead directly into them. Drill to reduce to legal weight.

Or just drill a bunch of 5/16" holes and epoxy 30 cal cast bullets in
them.

That'd work too. The idea about lead shot is a good one, though, as it
allows last-minute weight adjustments for when the scales are wrong.

On 7 Nov 2005 16:52:02 GMT, Dave Hinz wrote:


Yeah... but you'll still need to machine it in place to balance.
And don't let the cub scout handle the stuff unsupervised - same goes
for the lead really.

Well, let's be realistic. Handling lead isn't going to make 'em start
twitching.

If it did..Id be complety screwed.

Twitch...spasm...jerk...grimace....#$%!!!


Never mind......


Gunner

"Pax Americana is a philosophy. Hardly an empire.
Making sure other people play nice and dont kill each other (and us)
off in job lots is hardly empire building, particularly when you give
them self determination under "play nice" rules.

Think of it as having your older brother knock the **** out of you
for torturing the cat." Gunner

4 wheel weights of lead may easily exceed the 5 oz limit... what about
using some more ordinary engineering material such as free-machining
brass?

I ws thinking of only weighting the two rear wheels, since real
location of weight has the greater potential energy.

The samples we did in testing this year, we were able to get up to 5 oz
by just weighting the rear wheels.

Tillman

On 7 Nov 2005 08:49:09 -0800, wrote:

Pete C. wrote:

You might want to try some of that "fixturing alloy" you can get from
MSC/Enco/McMaster. Since it melts at such a low temp you might be able
to directly cast it into the plastic wheels.

Yeah... but you'll still need to machine it in place to balance.

And don't let the cub scout handle the stuff unsupervised - same goes
for the lead really.

CerroSafe was developed specifically because it is safe for kids to
handle, as in casting toy soldiers.

Don Foreman wrote:

CerroSafe was developed specifically because it is safe for kids to
handle, as in casting toy soldiers.

No, it's not. It's 37.7 % lead and 8.5% cadmium, worse actually than
CerroBend.

The "safe" refers presumably to slight initial shrinkage allowing a
duplication casting to be removed without cracking the part you are
using as a mold, allegedly it then expands back to the original
dimension.

The plain tin/bismuth alloys (example CerroTrue) would be less toxic,
but the lowest melting point there is 281 F, so you can't use the water
bath and as a result have to be carefull not to overheat.

wrote in message
oups.com...
Don Foreman wrote:

CerroSafe was developed specifically because it is safe for kids to
handle, as in casting toy soldiers.

No, it's not. It's 37.7 % lead and 8.5% cadmium, worse actually than
CerroBend.

It might have meant safe temperatures.