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Default best starting point to build a homebrew centrifuge?

i have in mind a project which would require some medium amount of
centrifuging batches of materials. Industrial centrifuges are too
expensive.

I thought to start with a washing machine, it's a decent volume of spun
space, and they are relatively cheap.

Anything even better? Willing to spend as long as
results/incremental-dollars margin is positive.

  #7   Report Post  
Tom Miller
 
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Default best starting point to build a homebrew centrifuge?



What on earth do you want a centrifuge for
w.r.t. homebrewing?
I've done it for years without ever seeing the
need, and we have two
boutique breweries around, one in the valley and
one in the village and
neither of them ever owned a centrifuge (nor do
the large commercial
German breweries I've visited)?!?


We had two, 100 Hp centrifuges at a brewery that
I worked at In Sydney. We used them to spin out
most of the yeast before the beer was filtered. It
save a significant amount of money in diatomaceous
earth filter powder as well as saving on the
disposal costs of used filter medium..
They frightened hell out of me. The rotor weighed
about 100 Kg and spun at 300 rpm. . They used an
eddy current drive to get it up to speed. It took
over an hour to get to operating speed from cold
start.

I did a "back of an envelope' calculation with
regard to the stored energy in one of these
things,and avoided them like the plague ever
since.

Tom Miller


  #8   Report Post  
Dave Baker
 
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Default best starting point to build a homebrew centrifuge?


Tom Miller wrote in message
...


What on earth do you want a centrifuge for
w.r.t. homebrewing?
I've done it for years without ever seeing the
need, and we have two
boutique breweries around, one in the valley and
one in the village and
neither of them ever owned a centrifuge (nor do
the large commercial
German breweries I've visited)?!?


We had two, 100 Hp centrifuges at a brewery that
I worked at In Sydney. We used them to spin out
most of the yeast before the beer was filtered. It
save a significant amount of money in diatomaceous
earth filter powder as well as saving on the
disposal costs of used filter medium..
They frightened hell out of me. The rotor weighed
about 100 Kg and spun at 300 rpm. . They used an
eddy current drive to get it up to speed. It took
over an hour to get to operating speed from cold
start.

I did a "back of an envelope' calculation with
regard to the stored energy in one of these
things,and avoided them like the plague ever
since.

Tom Miller


That's a lot less energy than an average IC engine spinning at 6k rpm so I'm
not sure what you are so frightened about.
--
Dave Baker


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Default best starting point to build a homebrew centrifuge?

Depends upon what you expect from the centrifuge.
If you intend to clean up waste vegetable oil with it, you might look for
a cream separator as used in a dairy.

If you project can be solved by filtration, it might be cheaper and easier
to fabricate from available junk.


  #10   Report Post  
gfulton
 
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Default best starting point to build a homebrew centrifuge?


"Tom Miller" wrote in message
...


What on earth do you want a centrifuge for w.r.t. homebrewing?
I've done it for years without ever seeing the need, and we have two
boutique breweries around, one in the valley and one in the village and
neither of them ever owned a centrifuge (nor do the large commercial
German breweries I've visited)?!?


We had two, 100 Hp centrifuges at a brewery that I worked at In Sydney. We
used them to spin out most of the yeast before the beer was filtered. It
save a significant amount of money in diatomaceous earth filter powder as
well as saving on the disposal costs of used filter medium..
They frightened hell out of me. The rotor weighed about 100 Kg and spun at
300 rpm. . They used an eddy current drive to get it up to speed. It took
over an hour to get to operating speed from cold start.

I did a "back of an envelope' calculation with regard to the stored energy
in one of these things,and avoided them like the plague ever since.

Tom Miller



Is this RPM right? 220 lbs. at 300 RPM just doesn't seem all that dangerous
to me. How much weight was spinning when it was loaded?

Garrett Fulton




  #12   Report Post  
Larry Jaques
 
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Default best starting point to build a homebrew centrifuge?

On Thu, 27 Oct 2005 10:21:22 +0100, with neither quill nor qualm,
"Dave Baker" quickly quoth:

Tom Miller wrote in message
I did a "back of an envelope' calculation with
regard to the stored energy in one of these
things,and avoided them like the plague ever
since.


That's a lot less energy than an average IC engine spinning at 6k rpm so I'm
not sure what you are so frightened about.


Are you sure, Dave? The forces at such a larger radius and such a
larger mass at 300 RPM would seem to have a lot more energy than an
average IC engine could put out. (I'd like to see figures on both for
S&G. Throw in 1,500hp funny car/dragster engine figs, too, please.)

My truck's V-8 engine is spinning at an angle which would not slice
and dice me if it blew. (Although the new small cars with transverse
engines have their radial mass trajectories (what's the correct term
for this?) "aimed" more toward you, they have considerably less mass
to throw atcha.)

LJ--who doesn't recall hearing the term "centripetal" before this
newsgroup and has zero college math under his belt.

--
SAVE THE PARROTS! Eschew the use of poly!
----------
http://diversify.com Poly-free Website Development
  #13   Report Post  
Peter Huebner
 
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Default best starting point to build a homebrew centrifuge?

In article , says...
We had two, 100 Hp centrifuges at a brewery that
I worked at In Sydney. We used them to spin out
most of the yeast before the beer was filtered. It
save a significant amount of money in diatomaceous
earth filter powder as well as saving on the
disposal costs of used filter medium..


/rant on
That's more or less what I had in mind when I asked. Where I come from,
you don't use either centrifuges nor diatomaceous earth filters. You
don't use finings, you don't use uv to age the beer (you bloody well age
it in the tank first, and in the bottle second - 3 months minimum for
the latter before the bottles are allowed out the gate). I know very
well that the 'brewers' down here can't be bothered with that, and
that's why I won't buy DB or Lion or Foster etc ... I drink my own or
imported European beers.
I stopped drinking Tuborg and Stella the moment they started making it
in NZ under license, because I can taste the difference. :-( At times I
have the feeling they use cats' kidneys in the filtration process,
that's why they have to drink it ice cold: so they can't taste it.

Brewing beer should be an organic process, i.m.o. and not a chemistry
experiment. Patience pays off. Of course, that only applies if you take
pride in the product rather than just chasing the dollars.

Guess I'm just an old fusspot /rant off -P.

--
=========================================
firstname dot lastname at gmail fullstop com
  #15   Report Post  
ed
 
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Default best starting point to build a homebrew centrifuge?

When you get to making ones own stil let me know....




  #16   Report Post  
Don Foreman
 
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Default best starting point to build a homebrew centrifuge?

On Thu, 27 Oct 2005 08:55:28 -0400, "gfulton"
wrote:


"Tom Miller" wrote in message
...


What on earth do you want a centrifuge for w.r.t. homebrewing?
I've done it for years without ever seeing the need, and we have two
boutique breweries around, one in the valley and one in the village and
neither of them ever owned a centrifuge (nor do the large commercial
German breweries I've visited)?!?


We had two, 100 Hp centrifuges at a brewery that I worked at In Sydney. We
used them to spin out most of the yeast before the beer was filtered. It
save a significant amount of money in diatomaceous earth filter powder as
well as saving on the disposal costs of used filter medium..
They frightened hell out of me. The rotor weighed about 100 Kg and spun at
300 rpm. . They used an eddy current drive to get it up to speed. It took
over an hour to get to operating speed from cold start.

I did a "back of an envelope' calculation with regard to the stored energy
in one of these things,and avoided them like the plague ever since.

Tom Miller



Is this RPM right? 220 lbs. at 300 RPM just doesn't seem all that dangerous
to me. How much weight was spinning when it was loaded?


It depends on the size of the 'fuge. With a 10 ft dia 'fuge,
tangential velocity at 300 RPM is 157 ft/sec or about 107 mph with
about 150 G's on the load -- so the 220 lb mass is straining to leave
the bucket with 33,000 lb of force if I did me sums right.

I once saw a $20K (1966 dollars) electrostatically-suspended gyro fly
thru the 'fuge housing, go about 30 feet and then thru a brick wall.
There were no pieces larger than a nickel left. I think that one only
went up to 100 G's.

  #17   Report Post  
Spud Demon
 
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Default best starting point to build a homebrew centrifuge?

"Dave Baker" writes in article dated Thu, 27 Oct 2005 10:21:22 +0100:

Tom Miller wrote in message
...
They frightened hell out of me. The rotor weighed
about 100 Kg and spun at 300 rpm. . They used an
eddy current drive to get it up to speed. It took
over an hour to get to operating speed from cold
start.

I did a "back of an envelope' calculation with
regard to the stored energy in one of these
things,and avoided them like the plague ever
since.

Tom Miller


That's a lot less energy than an average IC engine spinning at 6k rpm so I'm
not sure what you are so frightened about.
--
Dave Baker


Tom didn't give us enough numbers to calculate energy. The energy of a
spinning hollow cylinder is (1/2)*mass*(radius*angular_velocity)^2. What
was the radius of the rotor, Tom?

The mass of the moving parts in a car engine is much less than 100kg, and
the radii are probably also much less -- radius of the crank and cam, and
half the stroke length for the pistons, which is a high-ball estimate
because the pistons only move at (radius*angular_velocity) in the middle of
their stroke.

-- spud_demon -at- thundermaker.net
The above may not (yet) represent the opinions of my employer.
  #18   Report Post  
Bob
 
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Default best starting point to build a homebrew centrifuge?


"Dave Baker" wrote in message
...

Tom Miller wrote in message
...


What on earth do you want a centrifuge for
w.r.t. homebrewing?
I've done it for years without ever seeing the
need, and we have two
boutique breweries around, one in the valley and
one in the village and
neither of them ever owned a centrifuge (nor do
the large commercial
German breweries I've visited)?!?


We had two, 100 Hp centrifuges at a brewery that
I worked at In Sydney. We used them to spin out
most of the yeast before the beer was filtered. It
save a significant amount of money in diatomaceous
earth filter powder as well as saving on the
disposal costs of used filter medium..
They frightened hell out of me. The rotor weighed
about 100 Kg and spun at 300 rpm. . They used an
eddy current drive to get it up to speed. It took
over an hour to get to operating speed from cold
start.

I did a "back of an envelope' calculation with
regard to the stored energy in one of these
things,and avoided them like the plague ever
since.

Tom Miller


That's a lot less energy than an average IC engine spinning at 6k rpm so
I'm
not sure what you are so frightened about.
--
Dave Baker


Wouldn't that depend a lot on the rotor diameter? The further out you move
that 100Kg from the center the faster it will be moving at 300RPM. It seems
to me like we could be talking about a LOT of energy. Especially considering
it takes a 100HP motor over an hour to spin it up!
Bob


  #19   Report Post  
 
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Default best starting point to build a homebrew centrifuge?

Bob wrote:

...we could be talking about a LOT of energy. Especially considering
it takes a 100HP motor over an hour to spin it up!


100HPx746Wx3600s = 3 billion joules. How much is that in dynamite? :-)

Nick

  #20   Report Post  
Goedjn
 
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Default best starting point to build a homebrew centrifuge?




i have in mind a project which would require some medium amount of
centrifuging batches of materials. Industrial centrifuges are too
expensive.

I thought to start with a washing machine, it's a decent volume of spun
space, and they are relatively cheap.



What's wrong with a bucket on a rope?


  #21   Report Post  
 
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Default best starting point to build a homebrew centrifuge?

...we could be talking about a LOT of energy. Especially considering
it takes a 100HP motor over an hour to spin it up!


100HPx746Wx3600s = 3 billion joules. How much is that in dynamite? :-)


About 1530 pounds, ie 1.5 kilotons.

Nick

  #22   Report Post  
Lew Hartswick
 
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Default best starting point to build a homebrew centrifuge?

Larry Jaques wrote:

LJ--who doesn't recall hearing the term "centripetal" before this
newsgroup and has zero college math under his belt.

Aw yes! That is always a good starter for a LOOOOng thread. :-)]
Watch you have done Larry.
...lew...
  #25   Report Post  
Bob Engelhardt
 
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Default best starting point to build a homebrew centrifuge?

Don Foreman wrote:
On 27 Oct 2005 16:34:38 -0400, wrote:

....
About 1530 pounds, ie 1.5 kilotons.


A ton is 2000 lb so your figures suggest 0.75 KT.

....

No - .75 ton or .00075 KT


  #26   Report Post  
Ad absurdum per aspera
 
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Default best starting point to build a homebrew centrifuge?

100HPx746Wx3600s = 3 billion joules. How much is that in dynamite? :-),
About 1530 pounds, ie 1.5 kilotons


Erm, it would doubtless be "killa" if you were standing nearby at the
time of an uncontained failure but it isn't "kilo" (1.5 kT = 3 million
pounds, said of the blast aspect of nuclear weapons in broad comparison
to TNT).

I also think the amount of time needed to spin it up is irrelevant to
a calculation of how much rotational kinetic energy it has when done
(though perhaps highly relevant to how much energy will drain out of
you when you get the electric bill!); and that's the key fact for
safety.

BTW, I think the energy use is 268 MJ, not 3 GJ, if you run a 100 hp
(input) motor for an hour. Check my logic... A horsepower is 745 W.
A watt is a joule per second, so if you do that for 3600 seconds you
get 268,200,000 joules.

See for instance
http://www.newton.dep.anl.gov/askasc...9/phy99x45.htm
and (one of the most eminently bookmarkworthy and explorable sites
around)
http://hyperphysics.phy-astr.gsu.edu/hbase/rke.html

--Joe "Whatever the numbers, centrifuges are built strong, and operated
according to safety instructions, for a reason" Chew

  #27   Report Post  
Logan Shaw
 
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Default best starting point to build a homebrew centrifuge?

Ad absurdum per aspera wrote:
100HPx746Wx3600s = 3 billion joules. How much is that in dynamite? :-),


About 1530 pounds, ie 1.5 kilotons


Erm, it would doubtless be "killa" if you were standing nearby at the
time of an uncontained failure but it isn't "kilo" (1.5 kT = 3 million
pounds, said of the blast aspect of nuclear weapons in broad comparison
to TNT).

I also think the amount of time needed to spin it up is irrelevant to
a calculation of how much rotational kinetic energy it has when done
(though perhaps highly relevant to how much energy will drain out of
you when you get the electric bill!); and that's the key fact for
safety.

BTW, I think the energy use is 268 MJ, not 3 GJ, if you run a 100 hp
(input) motor for an hour. Check my logic... A horsepower is 745 W.
A watt is a joule per second, so if you do that for 3600 seconds you
get 268,200,000 joules.


Assuming you lose nothing to friction during that hour of the giant
heavy drum spinning.

- Logan
  #28   Report Post  
Ad absurdum per aspera
 
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Default best starting point to build a homebrew centrifuge?

Sure enough... that's why I took the liberty of specifying "100 hp
(input"). That may not have answered quite exactly the question asked,
but lends itself to doing a finite-envelope model without having to
look around in the bottom drawer for another envelope.

Accounting for real-world efficiency, the actual power usage curve, and
other things you'd want to tease out if you were designing or
specifying equipment, rather than just getting a quick calculation onto
the right order of magnitude, makes for big equations with a lot of
moving parts.

Cheers,
--Joe

  #29   Report Post  
Logan Shaw
 
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Default best starting point to build a homebrew centrifuge?

Ad absurdum per aspera wrote:
Accounting for real-world efficiency, the actual power usage curve, and
other things you'd want to tease out if you were designing or
specifying equipment, rather than just getting a quick calculation onto
the right order of magnitude, makes for big equations with a lot of
moving parts.


Agreed. I was just trying to imply that an hour's worth of friction
might change the energy by an entire order of magnitude.

On the other hand, if it truly takes an hour to get up to speed,
then maybe friction is only a small part of the battle...

- Logan
  #30   Report Post  
 
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Default best starting point to build a homebrew centrifuge?

radial mass trajectories (what's the correct term
for this?)



Tangential



  #31   Report Post  
Larry Jaques
 
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Default best starting point to build a homebrew centrifuge?

On Thu, 27 Oct 2005 21:37:10 GMT, with neither quill nor qualm, Lew
Hartswick quickly quoth:

Larry Jaques wrote:

LJ--who doesn't recall hearing the term "centripetal" before this
newsgroup and has zero college math under his belt.

Aw yes! That is always a good starter for a LOOOOng thread. :-)]
Watch you have done Larry.
...lew...


GOTCHA!

--
SAVE THE PARROTS! Eschew the use of poly!
----------
http://diversify.com Poly-free Website Development
  #32   Report Post  
 
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Default best starting point to build a homebrew centrifuge?

In article et,
Lew Hartswick wrote:
wrote:

100HPx746Wx3600s = 3 billion joules. How much is that in dynamite? :-)


About 1530 pounds, ie 1.5 kilotons.
*****
Nick

Come again Nick ? a ton is 2000 pounds.
...lew...


Small kilotons :-) One site says 100 grams of dynamite is 0.43x10^6 joules.

Nick

  #34   Report Post  
MK1
 
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Default best starting point to build a homebrew centrifuge?

Logan Shaw wrote:
Ad absurdum per aspera wrote:

Accounting for real-world efficiency, the actual power usage curve, and
other things you'd want to tease out if you were designing or
specifying equipment, rather than just getting a quick calculation onto
the right order of magnitude, makes for big equations with a lot of
moving parts.



Agreed. I was just trying to imply that an hour's worth of friction
might change the energy by an entire order of magnitude.

On the other hand, if it truly takes an hour to get up to speed,
then maybe friction is only a small part of the battle...

- Logan

There is no friction.An eddy current drive would be magneticly coupled.
  #35   Report Post  
Neon John
 
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Default best starting point to build a homebrew centrifuge?

On Fri, 28 Oct 2005 18:33:17 -0800, MK1 wrote:

Logan Shaw wrote:
Ad absurdum per aspera wrote:

Accounting for real-world efficiency, the actual power usage curve, and
other things you'd want to tease out if you were designing or
specifying equipment, rather than just getting a quick calculation onto
the right order of magnitude, makes for big equations with a lot of
moving parts.



Agreed. I was just trying to imply that an hour's worth of friction
might change the energy by an entire order of magnitude.

On the other hand, if it truly takes an hour to get up to speed,
then maybe friction is only a small part of the battle...

- Logan

There is no friction.An eddy current drive would be magneticly coupled.


The energy difference between what the motor supplies and what the
load absorbs is dissipated as heat in the eddy current clutch. Just
like a friction clutch would except that there are no wearing
surfaces.

At the instant of startup, the drive is dissipating all the power and
the load is absorbing none. At the instant of full speed, the load is
absorbing all the power and drive is dissipating none. (This assumes
no electronic ramp drive to the eddy current clutch) The actual
solution to the stored energy problem is a nice little calculus
problem but one can approximate by assuming that half is dissipated
and half absorbed by the load. That's a spit-load of energy! I'd
certainly not want to be in the building if the rotor disassembled
itself.

John

---
John De Armond
See my website for my current email address
http://www.johngsbbq.com
Cleveland, Occupied TN


  #36   Report Post  
Richard Bell
 
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Default best starting point to build a homebrew centrifuge?

In article ,
wrote:
Bob wrote:

...we could be talking about a LOT of energy. Especially considering
it takes a 100HP motor over an hour to spin it up!


100HPx746Wx3600s = 3 billion joules. How much is that in dynamite? :-)

Nick


I believe it is a couple hundred sticks of the stuff, maybe a whole ton
of it. Although, it is the frissance of the dynamite, not the energy
that makes it dangerous. Your typical chocolate chip cookie contains
more chemical energy than a stick of dynamite. About the only way to
fully realize this is to notice how flour, with an incendiary trigger,
can make an adequite fuel air explosive.
  #37   Report Post  
 
Posts: n/a
Default best starting point to build a homebrew centrifuge?

Richard Bell wrote:

Your typical chocolate chip cookie contains
more chemical energy than a stick of dynamite.


Which is just the say the cookie not only tastes great, it has less
filler

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