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Metalworking (rec.crafts.metalworking) Discuss various aspects of working with metal, such as machining, welding, metal joining, screwing, casting, hardening/tempering, blacksmithing/forging, spinning and hammer work, sheet metal work. |
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Sub-MainI in Shop
Several months or so ago there was a thread here I think. Googling etc. to no avail,. Somebody wrote that there was someplace in the National Electrical Code that said that for sub-mains you had to lift the neutral (isolate it) in the sub-main box, and run it back to the main box. I am looking for where (article) where this is mentioned. Also I hear rumored that there is now a spec that calls out that if a line is #14, 15 amp it has to be a particular color, and also a #12, 20 amp it has to be another color. I am about to rewire the shop and would like to have it up to the code. As above article or any info?? Many thanks for the info. Phredd (Fred) |
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Fred May wrote:
Somebody wrote that there was someplace in the National Electrical Code that said that for sub-mains you had to lift the neutral (isolate it) in the sub-main box, and run it back to the main box. I am looking for where (article) where this is mentioned. Also I hear rumored that there is now a spec that calls out that if a line is #14, 15 amp it has to be a particular color, and also a #12, 20 amp it has to be another color. 2005 NEC 250.24(A)(5) "A grounding connection shall not be made to any grounded conductor [i.e. neutral] on the load side of the service disconnecting means except as otherwise permitted in this article." 250.32 deals with subpanels installed in a separate building. Some brands of Romex cable (e.g. Simpull) are color-coded according to wire gauge (14AWG = WHT, 12AWG = YEL, 10AWG = ORG), but I don't know of any code requirement for this color-coding. -- --Steve |
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