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Fred May
 
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Default Sub-MainI in Shop


Several months or so ago there was a thread here I think. Googling etc.
to no avail,. Somebody wrote that there was someplace in the National
Electrical Code that said that for sub-mains you had to lift the neutral
(isolate it) in the sub-main box, and run it back to the main box. I am
looking for where (article) where this is mentioned.
Also I hear rumored that there is now a spec that calls out that if a
line is #14, 15 amp it has to be a particular color, and also a #12, 20
amp it has to be another color. I am about to rewire the shop and would
like to have it up to the code. As above article or any info??

Many thanks for the info.

Phredd (Fred)
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Steve
 
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Fred May wrote:

Somebody wrote that there was someplace in the National
Electrical Code that said that for sub-mains you had to lift the neutral
(isolate it) in the sub-main box, and run it back to the main box. I am
looking for where (article) where this is mentioned.
Also I hear rumored that there is now a spec that calls out that if a
line is #14, 15 amp it has to be a particular color, and also a #12, 20
amp it has to be another color.



2005 NEC 250.24(A)(5) "A grounding connection shall not be made to any
grounded conductor [i.e. neutral] on the load side of the service
disconnecting means except as otherwise permitted in this article." 250.32
deals with subpanels installed in a separate building.

Some brands of Romex cable (e.g. Simpull) are color-coded according to wire
gauge (14AWG = WHT, 12AWG = YEL, 10AWG = ORG), but I don't know of any code
requirement for this color-coding.


--
--Steve
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