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Fred May September 18th 05 06:02 PM

Sub-MainI in Shop
 

Several months or so ago there was a thread here I think. Googling etc.
to no avail,. Somebody wrote that there was someplace in the National
Electrical Code that said that for sub-mains you had to lift the neutral
(isolate it) in the sub-main box, and run it back to the main box. I am
looking for where (article) where this is mentioned.
Also I hear rumored that there is now a spec that calls out that if a
line is #14, 15 amp it has to be a particular color, and also a #12, 20
amp it has to be another color. I am about to rewire the shop and would
like to have it up to the code. As above article or any info??

Many thanks for the info.

Phredd (Fred)

Steve September 18th 05 08:37 PM

Fred May wrote:

Somebody wrote that there was someplace in the National
Electrical Code that said that for sub-mains you had to lift the neutral
(isolate it) in the sub-main box, and run it back to the main box. I am
looking for where (article) where this is mentioned.
Also I hear rumored that there is now a spec that calls out that if a
line is #14, 15 amp it has to be a particular color, and also a #12, 20
amp it has to be another color.



2005 NEC 250.24(A)(5) "A grounding connection shall not be made to any
grounded conductor [i.e. neutral] on the load side of the service
disconnecting means except as otherwise permitted in this article." 250.32
deals with subpanels installed in a separate building.

Some brands of Romex cable (e.g. Simpull) are color-coded according to wire
gauge (14AWG = WHT, 12AWG = YEL, 10AWG = ORG), but I don't know of any code
requirement for this color-coding.


--
--Steve


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