A local kid asked me to make him a pickguard for a guitar. He had his old one to
use as a template, and he wants it made from diamondplate aluminum. I have been
working on this, and I got the stuff cut OK. Inside radiused corners in enclosed
holes were difficult, but I finally did OK using a jeweler's saw in a scroll
saw. I have to drill a bunch of 7/64" holes, one 1/2" hole, one 7/16" hole, and
3 3/8" holes, all working from punch marks. The stuff doesn't drill very well
using normally ground twist drills. I haven't tried punching it, but figure it
might be difficult because of the diamond texture. What is the best way to make
these holes?

Grant

plasma cutter.
run the tip on the back (smooth side).
Michelle

Grant Erwin wrote:

A local kid asked me to make him a pickguard for a guitar. He had his
old one to use as a template, and he wants it made from diamondplate
aluminum. I have been working on this, and I got the stuff cut OK.
Inside radiused corners in enclosed holes were difficult, but I
finally did OK using a jeweler's saw in a scroll saw. I have to drill
a bunch of 7/64" holes, one 1/2" hole, one 7/16" hole, and 3 3/8"
holes, all working from punch marks. The stuff doesn't drill very well
using normally ground twist drills. I haven't tried punching it, but
figure it might be difficult because of the diamond texture. What is
the best way to make these holes?

Grant

Are you serious? 7/64" holes with a plasma cutter? Have you ever looked at a
guitar pickguard? This isn't a manhole cover, it has to be pretty!

GWE

Michelle P wrote:

plasma cutter.
run the tip on the back (smooth side).
Michelle

Grant Erwin wrote:

A local kid asked me to make him a pickguard for a guitar. He had his
old one to use as a template, and he wants it made from diamondplate
aluminum. I have been working on this, and I got the stuff cut OK.
Inside radiused corners in enclosed holes were difficult, but I
finally did OK using a jeweler's saw in a scroll saw. I have to drill
a bunch of 7/64" holes, one 1/2" hole, one 7/16" hole, and 3 3/8"
holes, all working from punch marks. The stuff doesn't drill very well
using normally ground twist drills. I haven't tried punching it, but
figure it might be difficult because of the diamond texture. What is
the best way to make these holes?

Grant

Grant Erwin wrote:

Are you serious? 7/64" holes with a plasma cutter? Have you ever looked at a
guitar pickguard? This isn't a manhole cover, it has to be pretty!

GWE

Michelle P wrote:

plasma cutter.
run the tip on the back (smooth side).
Michelle

Grant Erwin wrote:

A local kid asked me to make him a pickguard for a guitar. He had his
old one to use as a template, and he wants it made from diamondplate
aluminum. I have been working on this, and I got the stuff cut OK.
Inside radiused corners in enclosed holes were difficult, but I
finally did OK using a jeweler's saw in a scroll saw. I have to drill
a bunch of 7/64" holes, one 1/2" hole, one 7/16" hole, and 3 3/8"
holes, all working from punch marks. The stuff doesn't drill very well
using normally ground twist drills. I haven't tried punching it, but
figure it might be difficult because of the diamond texture. What is
the best way to make these holes?

Grant



Have you tried a good sharp center cutting endmill? The mills rigidity
will probably also help keep the soft aluminum from yanking the
bit/endmill in too fast.

Pete C.

"Grant Erwin" wrote in message
...
A local kid asked me to make him a pickguard for a guitar. He had his old
one to use as a template, and he wants it made from diamondplate aluminum.
I have been working on this, and I got the stuff cut OK. Inside radiused
corners in enclosed holes were difficult, but I finally did OK using a
jeweler's saw in a scroll saw. I have to drill a bunch of 7/64" holes, one
1/2" hole, one 7/16" hole, and 3 3/8" holes, all working from punch marks.
The stuff doesn't drill very well using normally ground twist drills. I
haven't tried punching it, but figure it might be difficult because of the
diamond texture. What is the best way to make these holes?

Grant

How about a Unibit step drill?
Greg

Grant Erwin wrote in
:

A local kid asked me to make him a pickguard for a guitar. He had his
old one to use as a template, and he wants it made from diamondplate
aluminum. I have been working on this, and I got the stuff cut OK.
Inside radiused corners in enclosed holes were difficult, but I
finally did OK using a jeweler's saw in a scroll saw. I have to drill
a bunch of 7/64" holes, one 1/2" hole, one 7/16" hole, and 3 3/8"
holes, all working from punch marks. The stuff doesn't drill very well
using normally ground twist drills. I haven't tried punching it, but
figure it might be difficult because of the diamond texture. What is
the best way to make these holes?

Grant


from the backside

--
Anthony

You can't 'idiot proof' anything....every time you try, they just make
better idiots.

Remove sp to reply via email

http://www.machines-cnc.net:81/

"Pete C." wrote in message
...
Grant Erwin wrote:

Are you serious? 7/64" holes with a plasma cutter? Have you ever looked
at a
guitar pickguard? This isn't a manhole cover, it has to be pretty!

GWE

Michelle P wrote:

plasma cutter.
run the tip on the back (smooth side).
Michelle

Grant Erwin wrote:

A local kid asked me to make him a pickguard for a guitar. He had his
old one to use as a template, and he wants it made from diamondplate
aluminum. I have been working on this, and I got the stuff cut OK.
Inside radiused corners in enclosed holes were difficult, but I
finally did OK using a jeweler's saw in a scroll saw. I have to drill
a bunch of 7/64" holes, one 1/2" hole, one 7/16" hole, and 3 3/8"
holes, all working from punch marks. The stuff doesn't drill very
well
using normally ground twist drills. I haven't tried punching it, but
figure it might be difficult because of the diamond texture. What is
the best way to make these holes?

Grant



Have you tried a good sharp center cutting endmill? The mills rigidity
will probably also help keep the soft aluminum from yanking the
bit/endmill in too fast.

Pete C.

What Pete said. That's a no-brainer. Even if you don't use the end mill to
drill, make certain that you spot face the diamond protrusions to drill
diameter so they don't deflect your drill. It would be wise to cover the
surface with masking tape if you don't want any swirls from the chips
showing up on the finished product. That is almost always a problem. The
tape will get sticky and release in areas if you use kerosene or other
lubricant, but you should be able to finish the job before it has released
completely. Clean up in mineral spirits when finished, which will remove
the stickiness left behind from the masking tape. You should be able to
pick up the punch marks with a wiggler through the tape. Be certain to
mark them before setting up, while you can see them easily.

Harold

"Anthony" wrote in message
...
Grant Erwin wrote in
:

A local kid asked me to make him a pickguard for a guitar. He had his
old one to use as a template, and he wants it made from diamondplate
aluminum. I have been working on this, and I got the stuff cut OK.
Inside radiused corners in enclosed holes were difficult, but I
finally did OK using a jeweler's saw in a scroll saw. I have to drill
a bunch of 7/64" holes, one 1/2" hole, one 7/16" hole, and 3 3/8"
holes, all working from punch marks. The stuff doesn't drill very well
using normally ground twist drills. I haven't tried punching it, but
figure it might be difficult because of the diamond texture. What is
the best way to make these holes?

Grant


from the backside

That often just changes the nature of the problems at hand. In this
instance, the burr you raise drilling on the edge of a diamond would be far
more difficult to remove, and it could deflect your drill as it breaks
through. All depends on where the hole falls. Maybe the deflection
wouldn't be a problem, but deburring it sure to be. Also, if the plate
was supplied with the center pops already in place, that wouldn't be much of
a solution.

Harold

On Sun, 21 Aug 2005 12:05:47 -0500, "Greg O"
wrote:

"Grant Erwin" wrote in message
...
A local kid asked me to make him a pickguard for a guitar. He had his old
one to use as a template, and he wants it made from diamondplate aluminum.
I have been working on this, and I got the stuff cut OK. Inside radiused
corners in enclosed holes were difficult, but I finally did OK using a
jeweler's saw in a scroll saw. I have to drill a bunch of 7/64" holes, one
1/2" hole, one 7/16" hole, and 3 3/8" holes, all working from punch marks.
The stuff doesn't drill very well using normally ground twist drills. I
haven't tried punching it, but figure it might be difficult because of the
diamond texture. What is the best way to make these holes?

Grant

How about a Unibit step drill?
Greg

I think thats what I would use also. Held in the mill.

Gunner

In article ,
Gunner Asch wrote:
On Sun, 21 Aug 2005 12:05:47 -0500, "Greg O"
wrote:

[ ... for drilling in diamond plate ... ]

How about a Unibit step drill?
Greg

I think thats what I would use also. Held in the mill.

The ones which I have are not ideal for holding in a mill -- at
least not in a collet or an end-mill holder. They have three
equally-spaced flats which are designed for gripping by a standard drill
chuck.

Of course, of you intend to use a drill chuck in the mill, this
should work well enough.

Enjoy,
DoN.
--
Email: | Voice (all times): (703) 938-4564
(too) near Washington D.C. | http://www.d-and-d.com/dnichols/DoN.html
--- Black Holes are where God is dividing by zero ---

Thanks to all who responded. I delivered the pickguard tonight to a very happy
young metal band. The first one was free, every one from now on will be $150. I
got a lot better with a wiggler, and Harold's tape trick worked perfectly. It
turned out a lot of the holes were oddball sizes so I had to drill them, not
having every diameter of end mill. I wound up freehanding the countersink, and
it didn't go too badly. All in all it worked out pretty well.

Grant

On 22 Aug 2005 22:31:58 -0400, (DoN. Nichols)
wrote:

In article ,
Gunner Asch wrote:
On Sun, 21 Aug 2005 12:05:47 -0500, "Greg O"
wrote:

[ ... for drilling in diamond plate ... ]

How about a Unibit step drill?
Greg

I think thats what I would use also. Held in the mill.

The ones which I have are not ideal for holding in a mill -- at
least not in a collet or an end-mill holder. They have three
equally-spaced flats which are designed for gripping by a standard drill
chuck.

Of course, of you intend to use a drill chuck in the mill, this
should work well enough.

Enjoy,
DoN.


Of course in the chuck G Though they do work in a collet. Been
there, done that.

Gunner

"Pax Americana is a philosophy. Hardly an empire.
Making sure other people play nice and dont kill each other (and us)
off in job lots is hardly empire building, particularly when you give
them self determination under "play nice" rules.

Think of it as having your older brother knock the **** out of you
for torturing the cat." Gunner

By the way, this was one of the few times I used a drill chuck to hold all the
tooling. Wiggler, big end mill (to counterbore the diamond pattern to allow
washers to lay flat), drill bit or little end mill, then maybe countersink.
Repeat. Only worked because it was straight plunging on very soft aluminum. Lots
of guys imply you go straight to hell if you do something as dumb as holding an
end mill in a drill chuck. Well, I did it, it was fast, and worked perfectly.
Would I do it a lot? No way. - GWE

Gunner Asch wrote:

On 22 Aug 2005 22:31:58 -0400, (DoN. Nichols)
wrote:


In article ,
Gunner Asch wrote:

On Sun, 21 Aug 2005 12:05:47 -0500, "Greg O"
wrote:

[ ... for drilling in diamond plate ... ]


How about a Unibit step drill?
Greg


I think thats what I would use also. Held in the mill.

The ones which I have are not ideal for holding in a mill -- at
least not in a collet or an end-mill holder. They have three
equally-spaced flats which are designed for gripping by a standard drill
chuck.

Of course, of you intend to use a drill chuck in the mill, this
should work well enough.

Enjoy,
DoN.



Of course in the chuck G Though they do work in a collet. Been
there, done that.

Gunner

"Grant Erwin" wrote in message
...
By the way, this was one of the few times I used a drill chuck to hold all
the
tooling. Wiggler, big end mill (to counterbore the diamond pattern to
allow
washers to lay flat), drill bit or little end mill, then maybe
countersink.
Repeat. Only worked because it was straight plunging on very soft
aluminum. Lots
of guys imply you go straight to hell if you do something as dumb as
holding an
end mill in a drill chuck. Well, I did it, it was fast, and worked
perfectly.
Would I do it a lot? No way. - GWE

It wasn't uncommon for me to use that very procedure when building tooling,
but it was always in a mill, never a drill press. That alone makes a huge
difference, primarily in rigidity. I agree, it works fine, but it's easy
to get in trouble, especially with end mills. My only advice is to work
carefully when using them in drill chucks. They'll never run as well as
they do in a collet, but as you've found, they work well enough for spot
facing. It's a different story if you try machining sideways with them.

Harold

It also depends on the size and rigidity of the drill chuck and the
drill press itself. The shop has both a hefty benchtop woodworking
drill press, as well as a dedicated 3phase floor drill press that
weighs over 1000 lbs and has autofeed, infinitely variable speed, etc.
Basically a mill missing the table. It even has a drawbar and standard
taper so it could be used with collets for holding end mills.

woodworker88 wrote:

It also depends on the size and rigidity of the drill chuck and the
drill press itself. The shop has both a hefty benchtop woodworking
drill press, as well as a dedicated 3phase floor drill press that
weighs over 1000 lbs and has autofeed, infinitely variable speed, etc.
Basically a mill missing the table. It even has a drawbar and standard
taper so it could be used with collets for holding end mills.


This is a Bridgeport mill I'm talking here, not a drill press ..

GWE

On Tue, 23 Aug 2005 11:12:15 -0700, "Harold and Susan Vordos"
wrote:


"Grant Erwin" wrote in message
...
By the way, this was one of the few times I used a drill chuck to hold all
the
tooling. Wiggler, big end mill (to counterbore the diamond pattern to
allow
washers to lay flat), drill bit or little end mill, then maybe
countersink.
Repeat. Only worked because it was straight plunging on very soft
aluminum. Lots
of guys imply you go straight to hell if you do something as dumb as
holding an
end mill in a drill chuck. Well, I did it, it was fast, and worked
perfectly.
Would I do it a lot? No way. - GWE

It wasn't uncommon for me to use that very procedure when building tooling,
but it was always in a mill, never a drill press. That alone makes a huge
difference, primarily in rigidity. I agree, it works fine, but it's easy
to get in trouble, especially with end mills. My only advice is to work
carefully when using them in drill chucks. They'll never run as well as
they do in a collet, but as you've found, they work well enough for spot
facing. It's a different story if you try machining sideways with them.

Harold


They will work not badly if cutting sideways also. But not with an
un-drawbarred morse taper.

Gunner

"Pax Americana is a philosophy. Hardly an empire.
Making sure other people play nice and dont kill each other (and us)
off in job lots is hardly empire building, particularly when you give
them self determination under "play nice" rules.

Think of it as having your older brother knock the **** out of you
for torturing the cat." Gunner

"Gunner" wrote in message
...
On Tue, 23 Aug 2005 11:12:15 -0700, "Harold and Susan Vordos"
wrote:


"Grant Erwin" wrote in message
...
By the way, this was one of the few times I used a drill chuck to hold
all
the
tooling. Wiggler, big end mill (to counterbore the diamond pattern to
allow
washers to lay flat), drill bit or little end mill, then maybe
countersink.
Repeat. Only worked because it was straight plunging on very soft
aluminum. Lots
of guys imply you go straight to hell if you do something as dumb as
holding an
end mill in a drill chuck. Well, I did it, it was fast, and worked
perfectly.
Would I do it a lot? No way. - GWE

It wasn't uncommon for me to use that very procedure when building
tooling,
but it was always in a mill, never a drill press. That alone makes a
huge
difference, primarily in rigidity. I agree, it works fine, but it's
easy
to get in trouble, especially with end mills. My only advice is to work
carefully when using them in drill chucks. They'll never run as well as
they do in a collet, but as you've found, they work well enough for spot
facing. It's a different story if you try machining sideways with them.

Harold


They will work not badly if cutting sideways also. But not with an
un-drawbarred morse taper.

Gunner

"Pax Americana is a philosophy. Hardly an empire.
Making sure other people play nice and dont kill each other (and us)
off in job lots is hardly empire building, particularly when you give
them self determination under "play nice" rules.

Think of it as having your older brother knock the **** out of you
for torturing the cat." Gunner

They cut fine, but the minimal support they have from three jaws tends to
allow them to hook easily. The additional length of the chuck and the
small (chuck) shank doesn't help the cause, either. It's not a good policy
to hold end mills in chucks, regardless of how rigid the machine is, or what
material one is machining. Still, many of us have, and will, do it and
manage to live through it. Still, I never recommend it to anyone.

Harold

On Wed, 24 Aug 2005 00:39:25 -0700, "Harold and Susan Vordos"
wrote:


"Gunner" wrote in message
.. .
On Tue, 23 Aug 2005 11:12:15 -0700, "Harold and Susan Vordos"
wrote:


"Grant Erwin" wrote in message
...
By the way, this was one of the few times I used a drill chuck to hold
all
the
tooling. Wiggler, big end mill (to counterbore the diamond pattern to
allow
washers to lay flat), drill bit or little end mill, then maybe
countersink.
Repeat. Only worked because it was straight plunging on very soft
aluminum. Lots
of guys imply you go straight to hell if you do something as dumb as
holding an
end mill in a drill chuck. Well, I did it, it was fast, and worked
perfectly.
Would I do it a lot? No way. - GWE

It wasn't uncommon for me to use that very procedure when building
tooling,
but it was always in a mill, never a drill press. That alone makes a
huge
difference, primarily in rigidity. I agree, it works fine, but it's
easy
to get in trouble, especially with end mills. My only advice is to work
carefully when using them in drill chucks. They'll never run as well as
they do in a collet, but as you've found, they work well enough for spot
facing. It's a different story if you try machining sideways with them.

Harold


They will work not badly if cutting sideways also. But not with an
un-drawbarred morse taper.

Gunner

"Pax Americana is a philosophy. Hardly an empire.
Making sure other people play nice and dont kill each other (and us)
off in job lots is hardly empire building, particularly when you give
them self determination under "play nice" rules.

Think of it as having your older brother knock the **** out of you
for torturing the cat." Gunner

They cut fine, but the minimal support they have from three jaws tends to
allow them to hook easily. The additional length of the chuck and the
small (chuck) shank doesn't help the cause, either. It's not a good policy
to hold end mills in chucks, regardless of how rigid the machine is, or what
material one is machining. Still, many of us have, and will, do it and
manage to live through it. Still, I never recommend it to anyone.

Harold

Very true indeed and wise words. Which is why I said " will not work
badly". I always use a bigger chuck than most folks would in the
first place, so the jaws are bigger and one can apply more pressure.
And Ive had em move in the chuck..usually digging deeper into the
work..damnit. But Ive had the same thing happen with collets as well,
though admittedly, less often.

Gunner

"Pax Americana is a philosophy. Hardly an empire.
Making sure other people play nice and dont kill each other (and us)
off in job lots is hardly empire building, particularly when you give
them self determination under "play nice" rules.

Think of it as having your older brother knock the **** out of you
for torturing the cat." Gunner

"Gunner" wrote in message
...
snip------

And Ive had em move in the chuck..usually digging deeper into the
work..damnit. But Ive had the same thing happen with collets as well,
though admittedly, less often.

Gunner


Yep! Hardened jaws gripping shanks that are over 62Rc makes for a poor
holding device, particularly when the width of the jaws is so narrow at the
point of contact. Collets do grip better, but they still offer problems
under adverse conditions. I recall, way back in '67, scrapping a
template for the Boeing 747 that was being roughed with a 1" end mill that
walked out while I was taking a serious cut. There are times when end mill
holders can be a valuable asset.

Harold

That's gonna be one very rough on the wrists pickguard. They are smooth
for a reason. I know he wanted that industrial look but I doubt he will
be back for any more.

daniel peterman wrote:

That's gonna be one very rough on the wrists pickguard. They are smooth
for a reason. I know he wanted that industrial look but I doubt he will
be back for any more.


Well, it is a bass guitar, and he plays mostly with his fingertips. Not exactly
the heel of the hand on the pickguard while he flails with a pick like a lead
player. We'll see. It does look cool, that's for sure. The guys play pretty much
power metal (think Slayer, Judas Priest, Scorpions) and they're trying to stand
out amongst a bunch of pretty talented teen bands in the Seattle area. Their Web
site is outdated but you can get an idea: http://www.diebyday.com -- that's my
son in the middle with a Gibson Flying V.

Grant

Grant Erwin wrote:

daniel peterman wrote:

That's gonna be one very rough on the wrists pickguard. They are smooth
for a reason. I know he wanted that industrial look but I doubt he will
be back for any more.


Well, it is a bass guitar, and he plays mostly with his fingertips. Not exactly
the heel of the hand on the pickguard while he flails with a pick like a lead
player. We'll see. It does look cool, that's for sure. The guys play pretty much
power metal (think Slayer, Judas Priest, Scorpions) and they're trying to stand
out amongst a bunch of pretty talented teen bands in the Seattle area. Their Web
site is outdated but you can get an idea: http://www.diebyday.com -- that's my
son in the middle with a Gibson Flying V.

Grant

If they do indeed find the diamond plate is tough on the wrists,
consider using the Mirror Coat epoxy
(http://www.woodcraft.com/family.aspx?familyid=4140) to encapsulate the
diamond plate and provide a smooth surface while still giving the proper
diamond plate effect.

Pete C.

"Grant Erwin" wrote in message
...
snip---

http://www.diebyday.com -- that's my
son in the middle with a Gibson Flying V.

Grant

Your son needs a hair cut! g

Harold ( who wears below shoulder length hair)

Harold and Susan Vordos wrote:

"Grant Erwin" wrote in message
...
snip---

http://www.diebyday.com -- that's my

son in the middle with a Gibson Flying V.

Grant


Your son needs a hair cut! g

Harold ( who wears below shoulder length hair)



Oh, that's an old picture. It's much longer now. Go try to tell a sixteen year
old how long his hair should be. Isn't that what the sixties were all about? So
kids don't have to battle with their parents any more? I don't let him near
rotating machinery, but otherwise I just pay his phone bills and answer the
phone for his girl friends..

GWE

"Grant Erwin" wrote in message
...
Harold and Susan Vordos wrote:

"Grant Erwin" wrote in message
...
snip---

http://www.diebyday.com -- that's my

son in the middle with a Gibson Flying V.

Grant


Your son needs a hair cut! g

Harold ( who wears below shoulder length hair)



Oh, that's an old picture. It's much longer now. Go try to tell a sixteen
year
old how long his hair should be. Isn't that what the sixties were all
about? So
kids don't have to battle with their parents any more? I don't let him
near
rotating machinery, but otherwise I just pay his phone bills and answer
the
phone for his girl friends..

GWE

Chuckle!

Good on 'ya, Grant. Good father. Wish him success with his music.

Harold