Hi all,

Having been busy with other things, I haven't started to build my stone
polisher yet, but I've had chance to ponder the design a little. Often I
like to do this because I find after a week or two a smart idea will
come into my head, which I would otherwise have missed.

Anyway, I have a small problem with bearings. I intended to use
self-aligning ball races in pillow blocks, but it turns out that the
pillow block for a 1/2" diameter shaft is 5" long! So I can't get the
shafts closer than 5" apart unless I stagger the pillow blocks, which
will look messy. I want about 4" between the shafts, and I might make
this distance adjustable to allow different barrel sizes to be used on
the same machine.

Pillow blocks don't seem to be available for shafts less than 1/2"
diameter. I don't have access to a milling machine, so I can't make my
own "double pillow block" to carry two ball races. One idea I've had is
to use rod end bearings (as used in pneumatic cylinder linkages etc).
These could be attached to a base plate with a single bolt, provide the
self-aligning feature, and to cater for the rotation I could press a
bronze bush into the eye. I've checked and I can get components of the
right dimensions to make this work, but my local bearing supplier didn't
want to recommend it because the idea was unconventional.

What do people think? Will rod end bearings with a bronze insert stand
up to continuous use in a rock tumbler if I keep them clean and well
lubricated? Any thoughts would be much appreciated.

Best wishes,

Chris

In article ,
says...
Hi all,

Having been busy with other things, I haven't started to build my stone
polisher yet, but I've had chance to ponder the design a little. Often I
like to do this because I find after a week or two a smart idea will
come into my head, which I would otherwise have missed.

Anyway, I have a small problem with bearings. I intended to use
self-aligning ball races in pillow blocks, but it turns out that the
pillow block for a 1/2" diameter shaft is 5" long! So I can't get the
shafts closer than 5" apart unless I stagger the pillow blocks, which
will look messy. I want about 4" between the shafts, and I might make
this distance adjustable to allow different barrel sizes to be used on
the same machine.


You can get inexpensive ball bearing pillow blocks with
pressed steel housings that are only 3-5/8" long. See
McMaster p/n 5913K41 as an example or download the .pdf on
this page for more variations.

http://www.bostongear.com/products/b.../mounted.html#


Ned Simmons

Christopher Tidy wrote:

Anyway, I have a small problem with bearings. I intended to use
self-aligning ball races in pillow blocks, but it turns out that the
pillow block for a 1/2" diameter shaft is 5" long! So I can't get the
shafts closer than 5" apart unless I stagger the pillow blocks, which
will look messy. I want about 4" between the shafts, and I might make
this distance adjustable to allow different barrel sizes to be used on
the same machine.

Hmm. What if you mounted one pair of pillow blocks right side up and the other
ones upside down? Get 'em real close that way, but you'd have to modify your
design thinking a little.

Actually, you don't have to use pillow blocks. You can used flanged bearings
like this one: http://www.surpluscenter.com/item.asp?item=1-1489, but on the
sides of your tumbler, not on the floor. Again, a little different thinking.

Grant

Stand the pillow blocks on end and you can get em pretty darn close
together. Wedge em apart for spacing.
And no the brass bushings won't take the 24+ hour runs a tumbler would need
for long.
"Christopher Tidy" wrote in message
...
Hi all,

Having been busy with other things, I haven't started to build my stone
polisher yet, but I've had chance to ponder the design a little. Often I
like to do this because I find after a week or two a smart idea will come
into my head, which I would otherwise have missed.

Anyway, I have a small problem with bearings. I intended to use
self-aligning ball races in pillow blocks, but it turns out that the
pillow block for a 1/2" diameter shaft is 5" long! So I can't get the
shafts closer than 5" apart unless I stagger the pillow blocks, which will
look messy. I want about 4" between the shafts, and I might make this
distance adjustable to allow different barrel sizes to be used on the same
machine.

Pillow blocks don't seem to be available for shafts less than 1/2"
diameter. I don't have access to a milling machine, so I can't make my own
"double pillow block" to carry two ball races. One idea I've had is to use
rod end bearings (as used in pneumatic cylinder linkages etc). These could
be attached to a base plate with a single bolt, provide the self-aligning
feature, and to cater for the rotation I could press a bronze bush into
the eye. I've checked and I can get components of the right dimensions to
make this work, but my local bearing supplier didn't want to recommend it
because the idea was unconventional.

What do people think? Will rod end bearings with a bronze insert stand up
to continuous use in a rock tumbler if I keep them clean and well
lubricated? Any thoughts would be much appreciated.

Best wishes,

Chris

I think you're limiting your search for bearings too much. MSC has 1/2"
pillow block bearings ranging from 1.126" to 5" overall length. The smaller
ones have a stamped steal pillow instead of a cast one. They also have a
bearing block with a 2-bolt flange that could be bolted to a riser plate on
each side instead of using the pillow blocks.

http://www1.mscdirect.com/CGI/NNSRAR...1&PMAV ID=219

Or if you happen to have quick and inexpensive access to the type you were
originally talking about you could weld a vertical bar with 2 holes in it to
your base plate and mount the pillows on it with the bolts going all the way
through both pillows. I'm not sure how much closer that would put them but
it should help quite a bit.

Best Regards,
Keith Marshall


"I'm not grown up enough to be so old!"


"Christopher Tidy" wrote in message
...
Hi all,

Having been busy with other things, I haven't started to build my stone
polisher yet, but I've had chance to ponder the design a little. Often I
like to do this because I find after a week or two a smart idea will come
into my head, which I would otherwise have missed.

Anyway, I have a small problem with bearings. I intended to use
self-aligning ball races in pillow blocks, but it turns out that the
pillow block for a 1/2" diameter shaft is 5" long! So I can't get the
shafts closer than 5" apart unless I stagger the pillow blocks, which will
look messy. I want about 4" between the shafts, and I might make this
distance adjustable to allow different barrel sizes to be used on the same
machine.

Pillow blocks don't seem to be available for shafts less than 1/2"
diameter. I don't have access to a milling machine, so I can't make my own
"double pillow block" to carry two ball races. One idea I've had is to use
rod end bearings (as used in pneumatic cylinder linkages etc). These could
be attached to a base plate with a single bolt, provide the self-aligning
feature, and to cater for the rotation I could press a bronze bush into
the eye. I've checked and I can get components of the right dimensions to
make this work, but my local bearing supplier didn't want to recommend it
because the idea was unconventional.

What do people think? Will rod end bearings with a bronze insert stand up
to continuous use in a rock tumbler if I keep them clean and well
lubricated? Any thoughts would be much appreciated.

Best wishes,

Chris

I think I would make my own double pillow blocks out of wood with
bronze sleeve bearings. W.W. Grainger sells bronze bushings for about
$3 for three bushings. If you have access to a drill press you could
drill both blocks at the same time so both blocks have exactly the same
spacing and height. The bushings may not last forever, but would last
pretty long. Bronze is what the hobby tumblers use. And replacing
them several times would be cheaper than buying sealed ball bearings.


Dan

"Christopher Tidy" wrote in message
...
| Hi all,
| What do people think? Will rod end bearings with a bronze insert stand
| up to continuous use in a rock tumbler if I keep them clean and well
| lubricated? Any thoughts would be much appreciated.
|
| Best wishes,
|
| Chris

Do a little research into wood bearings. They just happen to be the
very best type of bearing for abrasive applications. There's several
options. The real beauty of it is that you can even make them yourselves!

On Tue, 28 Jun 2005 02:27:05 GMT, "carl mciver"
wrote:

"Christopher Tidy" wrote in message
...
| Hi all,
| What do people think? Will rod end bearings with a bronze insert stand
| up to continuous use in a rock tumbler if I keep them clean and well
| lubricated? Any thoughts would be much appreciated.
|
| Best wishes,
|
| Chris

Do a little research into wood bearings. They just happen to be the
very best type of bearing for abrasive applications. There's several
options. The real beauty of it is that you can even make them yourselves!
That's what I use on my sh*t shaker (compost screening plant) I used
blocks of oak(?) from pallets faced and bored on a lathe faceplate.
The 1/4" throw eccentrics run in pairs of these and are greased
through grease nipples mounted to hollow 3/8 cap screws threaded into
the wooden bearing - this was to increase the tapped hole strength in
the wood - the nipples blew out without the hollow cap screw
adapters. At ~600 RPM these bearings work great but need a bit of
clearance.
Gerry :-)}
London, Canada

On Tue, 28 Jun 2005 00:34:53 +0000 (UTC), Christopher Tidy
wrote:


Pillow blocks don't seem to be available for shafts less than 1/2"
diameter. I don't have access to a milling machine, so I can't make my
own "double pillow block" to carry two ball races.
What do people think? Will rod end bearings with a bronze insert stand
up to continuous use in a rock tumbler if I keep them clean and well
lubricated? Any thoughts would be much appreciated.

How about taking a block of UHMW and drilling two holes in it at
whatever spacing you desire. With a moderate load UHMW will last a
long time and when it wears you can just drill two more holes. If you
have a heavy load you can use nylon for better wear resistance.

"Gerald Miller" wrote in message
...
On Tue, 28 Jun 2005 02:27:05 GMT, "carl mciver"
wrote:
That's what I use on my sh*t shaker (compost screening plant) I used
blocks of oak(?) from pallets faced and bored on a lathe faceplate.
The 1/4" throw eccentrics run in pairs of these and are greased
through grease nipples mounted to hollow 3/8 cap screws threaded into
the wooden bearing - this was to increase the tapped hole strength in
the wood - the nipples blew out without the hollow cap screw
adapters. At ~600 RPM these bearings work great but need a bit of
clearance.
Gerry :-)}
London, Canada

Wood bearings were common in windmills. Just make them a little longer.
Check older machinists books for info on wood bearings, types of wood,
lubrication.

Hi all,

Having been busy with other things, I haven't started to build my stone
polisher yet, but I've had chance to ponder the design a little. Often I
like to do this because I find after a week or two a smart idea will
come into my head, which I would otherwise have missed.

Anyway, I have a small problem with bearings. I intended to use
self-aligning ball races in pillow blocks, but it turns out that the
pillow block for a 1/2" diameter shaft is 5" long! So I can't get the
shafts closer than 5" apart unless I stagger the pillow blocks, which
will look messy. I want about 4" between the shafts, and I might make
this distance adjustable to allow different barrel sizes to be used on
the same machine.

Pillow blocks don't seem to be available for shafts less than 1/2"
diameter. I don't have access to a milling machine, so I can't make my
own "double pillow block" to carry two ball races. One idea I've had is
to use rod end bearings (as used in pneumatic cylinder linkages etc).
These could be attached to a base plate with a single bolt, provide the
self-aligning feature, and to cater for the rotation I could press a
bronze bush into the eye. I've checked and I can get components of the
right dimensions to make this work, but my local bearing supplier didn't
want to recommend it because the idea was unconventional.

What do people think? Will rod end bearings with a bronze insert stand
up to continuous use in a rock tumbler if I keep them clean and well
lubricated? Any thoughts would be much appreciated.

Best wishes,

Chris

Chris,
Consider using two parallel shafts (length to suit length of drum (s)
you are planning to use, but mount two rubber "tires" on each shaft,
one on each side of the barrel at the bottom and one on each side of
the barrel at the top. If they are spaced right, and if the tires are
of sufficient diameter, many different size drums can be placed on the
tires and still be rotated. The rubber tires will dampen the noise a
bit, provide good "traction" for the drum, will last forever, and will
eliminate the need for moving the shafts apart or closer for different
size drums. Just a thought.... HTH
Ken.

On Tue, 28 Jun 2005 02:14:51 -0500, the opaque "bw"
spake:


"Gerald Miller" wrote in message
.. .
On Tue, 28 Jun 2005 02:27:05 GMT, "carl mciver"
wrote:
That's what I use on my sh*t shaker (compost screening plant) I used
blocks of oak(?) from pallets faced and bored on a lathe faceplate.
The 1/4" throw eccentrics run in pairs of these and are greased
through grease nipples mounted to hollow 3/8 cap screws threaded into
the wooden bearing - this was to increase the tapped hole strength in
the wood - the nipples blew out without the hollow cap screw
adapters. At ~600 RPM these bearings work great but need a bit of
clearance.
Gerry :-)}
London, Canada

Wood bearings were common in windmills. Just make them a little longer.
Check older machinists books for info on wood bearings, types of wood,
lubrication.

Lignum Vitae wood has been used on boat propeller and rudder shafts
for centuries now.

--
A lot of folks can't understand how we came
to have an oil shortage here in America.

Well, there's a very simple answer...nobody
bothered to check the oil; We just didn't
know we were getting low.

The reason for that is purely geographical
- our OIL is located in Alaska, California,
Oklahoma and Texas.

Our DIPSTICKS are located in Washington, DC.

bw wrote:

"Gerald Miller" wrote in message
...

On Tue, 28 Jun 2005 02:27:05 GMT, "carl mciver"
wrote:
That's what I use on my sh*t shaker (compost screening plant) I used
blocks of oak(?) from pallets faced and bored on a lathe faceplate.
The 1/4" throw eccentrics run in pairs of these and are greased
through grease nipples mounted to hollow 3/8 cap screws threaded into
the wooden bearing - this was to increase the tapped hole strength in
the wood - the nipples blew out without the hollow cap screw
adapters. At ~600 RPM these bearings work great but need a bit of
clearance.
Gerry :-)}
London, Canada


Wood bearings were common in windmills. Just make them a little longer.
Check older machinists books for info on wood bearings, types of wood,
lubrication.


Ships used wood bearings. Special wood and kept oiled IIRC.

Martin

--
Martin Eastburn
@ home at Lion's Lair with our computer lionslair at consolidated dot net
NRA LOH, NRA Life
NRA Second Amendment Task Force Charter Founder

----== Posted via Newsfeeds.Com - Unlimited-Uncensored-Secure Usenet News==----
http://www.newsfeeds.com The #1 Newsgroup Service in the World! 120,000+ Newsgroups
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Larry Jaques wrote:

On Tue, 28 Jun 2005 02:14:51 -0500, the opaque "bw"
spake:


"Gerald Miller" wrote in message
. ..

On Tue, 28 Jun 2005 02:27:05 GMT, "carl mciver"
wrote:
That's what I use on my sh*t shaker (compost screening plant) I used
blocks of oak(?) from pallets faced and bored on a lathe faceplate.
The 1/4" throw eccentrics run in pairs of these and are greased
through grease nipples mounted to hollow 3/8 cap screws threaded into
the wooden bearing - this was to increase the tapped hole strength in
the wood - the nipples blew out without the hollow cap screw
adapters. At ~600 RPM these bearings work great but need a bit of
clearance.
Gerry :-)}
London, Canada

Wood bearings were common in windmills. Just make them a little longer.
Check older machinists books for info on wood bearings, types of wood,
lubrication.


Lignum Vitae wood has been used on boat propeller and rudder shafts
for centuries now.

That is it! - thanks Larry


--
Martin Eastburn
@ home at Lion's Lair with our computer lionslair at consolidated dot net
NRA LOH, NRA Life
NRA Second Amendment Task Force Charter Founder

----== Posted via Newsfeeds.Com - Unlimited-Uncensored-Secure Usenet News==----
http://www.newsfeeds.com The #1 Newsgroup Service in the World! 120,000+ Newsgroups
----= East and West-Coast Server Farms - Total Privacy via Encryption =----

Larry Jaques wrote:
On Tue, 28 Jun 2005 02:14:51 -0500, the opaque "bw"
spake:


"Gerald Miller" wrote in message
. ..

On Tue, 28 Jun 2005 02:27:05 GMT, "carl mciver"
wrote:
That's what I use on my sh*t shaker (compost screening plant) I used
blocks of oak(?) from pallets faced and bored on a lathe faceplate.
The 1/4" throw eccentrics run in pairs of these and are greased
through grease nipples mounted to hollow 3/8 cap screws threaded into
the wooden bearing - this was to increase the tapped hole strength in
the wood - the nipples blew out without the hollow cap screw
adapters. At ~600 RPM these bearings work great but need a bit of
clearance.
Gerry :-)}
London, Canada

Wood bearings were common in windmills. Just make them a little longer.
Check older machinists books for info on wood bearings, types of wood,
lubrication.


Lignum Vitae wood has been used on boat propeller and rudder shafts
for centuries now.

Sorry for the slow reply to this thread. I immediately thought of Lignum
Vitae when someone mentioned wood bearings. An old schoolteacher told me
if was used to line sterntubes years ago and it stuck in my mind. Is it
readily available and affordable? I'd be interested to experiment with it.

By the way, the reason I didn't suggest using those "egg shaped"
bearings (the kind with two bolt holes parallel to the shaft) is that no
one will supply the to me at a sensible price in England. We can't get
prices anywhere near to McMaster's for a lot of stuff!

I might be able to get regular pillow blocks cheaply enough, but I don't
really want to mount then vertically or with one upside down. I think
it'll spoil the looks of my tumbler. Maybe I should wait till I get a
milling machine, but that could well be a few years!

Must go - supposed to be going on holiday in 4 hours!

Thanks for the suggestions,

Chris

Try the NSK "Silver series " bearings. They make pillow block bearings and 2
hole flange bearings that are more compact then the usual industrial size
blocks.


Tom
"Christopher Tidy" wrote in message
...
Larry Jaques wrote:
On Tue, 28 Jun 2005 02:14:51 -0500, the opaque "bw"
spake:


"Gerald Miller" wrote in message
. ..

On Tue, 28 Jun 2005 02:27:05 GMT, "carl mciver"
wrote:
That's what I use on my sh*t shaker (compost screening plant) I used
blocks of oak(?) from pallets faced and bored on a lathe faceplate.
The 1/4" throw eccentrics run in pairs of these and are greased
through grease nipples mounted to hollow 3/8 cap screws threaded into
the wooden bearing - this was to increase the tapped hole strength in
the wood - the nipples blew out without the hollow cap screw
adapters. At ~600 RPM these bearings work great but need a bit of
clearance.
Gerry :-)}
London, Canada

Wood bearings were common in windmills. Just make them a little longer.
Check older machinists books for info on wood bearings, types of wood,
lubrication.


Lignum Vitae wood has been used on boat propeller and rudder shafts
for centuries now.

Sorry for the slow reply to this thread. I immediately thought of Lignum
Vitae when someone mentioned wood bearings. An old schoolteacher told me
if was used to line sterntubes years ago and it stuck in my mind. Is it
readily available and affordable? I'd be interested to experiment with it.

By the way, the reason I didn't suggest using those "egg shaped"
bearings (the kind with two bolt holes parallel to the shaft) is that no
one will supply the to me at a sensible price in England. We can't get
prices anywhere near to McMaster's for a lot of stuff!

I might be able to get regular pillow blocks cheaply enough, but I don't
really want to mount then vertically or with one upside down. I think
it'll spoil the looks of my tumbler. Maybe I should wait till I get a
milling machine, but that could well be a few years!

Must go - supposed to be going on holiday in 4 hours!

Thanks for the suggestions,

Chris