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Metalworking (rec.crafts.metalworking) Discuss various aspects of working with metal, such as machining, welding, metal joining, screwing, casting, hardening/tempering, blacksmithing/forging, spinning and hammer work, sheet metal work. |
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Creating a radial tip on 1/4" SS T-bar- HELP Needed
I know this is an amateur newsgroup but you guys have some pretty
clever ideas sometimes. I was visited by an architect today that needs 1500' of 2" x 2" SS T-bar prepared with a radial and very smooth tip on one "point" of the Tee. The long leg will be buried in concrete, in a horizontal position with the single leg sticking out of the concrete to run sliding doors on. This is a very expensive residential construction project. I have had several ideas and will not mention any here for fear of deflecting a great idea one of you might have. I have talked to a large polishing shop, specializing in linear polishing, that has no way to make a radial edge but can polish one once created. The material is already rolled and waiting the drilling and finishing and couldn't be extruded in the shape we need as you can't extrude SS. I think I can get enough budget to create a custom machine if necessary but we are trying to avoid that. Got a cleaver idea? Leigh at MarMachine. |
#2
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If you have access to a horizontal mill, get a cutter made to the radius
you require and set up a couple of vises on the table. Put a work stand with a roller on it at the same height as the table. Start the mill in auto-feed with a stop at the end of travel. Make a cup of coffee (not instant!) then come back and set it up to do the next section. I doubt if it will need polishing if its just a rail for a door roller. Tom wrote in message oups.com... I know this is an amateur newsgroup but you guys have some pretty clever ideas sometimes. I was visited by an architect today that needs 1500' of 2" x 2" SS T-bar prepared with a radial and very smooth tip on one "point" of the Tee. The long leg will be buried in concrete, in a horizontal position with the single leg sticking out of the concrete to run sliding doors on. This is a very expensive residential construction project. I have had several ideas and will not mention any here for fear of deflecting a great idea one of you might have. I have talked to a large polishing shop, specializing in linear polishing, that has no way to make a radial edge but can polish one once created. The material is already rolled and waiting the drilling and finishing and couldn't be extruded in the shape we need as you can't extrude SS. I think I can get enough budget to create a custom machine if necessary but we are trying to avoid that. Got a cleaver idea? Leigh at MarMachine. |
#3
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Sound like a pretty good idea. Go ahead and try it. You'll need a
good sized horizontal mill and someone willing to do the gruntwork of running the piece. Do they even make those huge clausing types any more? I've seen an ancient one in the corner of a machine shop, but it looked at least 50 years old. Apparently only one old guy even knows how to run it anymore. |
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On 9 Jun 2005 23:56:11 -0700, "woodworker88"
wrote: Sound like a pretty good idea. Go ahead and try it. You'll need a good sized horizontal mill and someone willing to do the gruntwork of running the piece. Do they even make those huge clausing types any more? I've seen an ancient one in the corner of a machine shop, but it looked at least 50 years old. Apparently only one old guy even knows how to run it anymore. Stub arbor and a concave cutter on a vertical mill might do it just hunky dory. Ive got a goodly number of such cutters if Leigh needs some. I just need to know the radius. As Tom said..claim and cut, clamp and cut. Easy enough to make a fixture to hold the material consistantly. Gunner "Pax Americana is a philosophy. Hardly an empire. Making sure other people play nice and dont kill each other (and us) off in job lots is hardly empire building, particularly when you give them self determination under "play nice" rules. Think of it as having your older brother knock the **** out of you for torturing the cat." Gunner |
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How about a custom die for an iron worker? Stick it in, hit the foot peddle.
Next. I'd be worried about a convex cutter with stainless. You'll need quite a bit of material sticking out if you one pass it. Sounds like not rigid enough - chatter - work harden - break cutter. Just a guess. Don't know if I'd want to do 1500, but circular interpolate in CNC mill would work. Make fixture to hold several. This would take some creative work. One at a time would take forever. I've got an air actuated vise, you could do two at a time in each vise and have several vises on the table. Operator could change out while machine is on other vise. Karl |
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jim rozen wrote: In article .com, says... I know this is an amateur newsgroup but you guys have some pretty clever ideas sometimes. I was visited by an architect today that needs 1500' of 2" x 2" SS T-bar prepared with a radial and very smooth tip on one "point" of the Tee. How long are the sections? Why stainless? I would use a horizontal mill as mentioned, with a concave cutter. 1/8 R is not that large. My best idea yet, had been to use a horizontal mill with a shop created variable speed feed system under the Tee. Somewhat like a very slow self feeder used in the woodworking industry. I have no problem with the concept of a concave milling cutter it's really the cost of the feed mechanism that is putting me off. There is no way to clamp and reclamp every two feet through 1500 feet of this material. Secondly you will get a mismatch or stop mark ever time you move the part. In some cases we will be doing full 20" lengths. Put your thinking caps on! Leigh |
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I think I can get enough budget to create a custom machine if necessary but we are trying to avoid that. Got a cleaver idea? Leigh at MarMachine. Can you just weld a long piece of 1/4" diameter SS round bar to the top, polish it out and call it a day? Take Care, James Lerch http://lerch.no-ip.com/atm (My telescope construction, Testing, and Coating site) Press on: nothing in the world can take the place of perseverance. Talent will not; nothing is more common than unsuccessful men with talent. Genius will not; unrewarded genius is almost a proverb. Education will not; the world is full of educated derelicts. Persistence and determination alone are omnipotent. Calvin Coolidge |
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Could it be broached? I'm not sure about the forces involved, but would
think that a setup to pull the bar through would be a fairly simple thing to do. Roger 1500' of 2" x 2" SS T-bar prepared with a radial and very smooth tip on one "point" of the Tee. |
#12
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Roger: That is good thinking! Your idea may bear further
consideration. I am sure a 10 or 12 tooth broach would be adequate so all I have do do is figure a way to do the pulling. Leigh |
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A couple of ideas-
Nitto makes a nifty little air powered beveling tool for putting a single edge bevel on plate. Seems like it would be easy enough to make roundover cutters for it- it just uses standard carbide cutters, held in with an allen screw. I have used mine on stainless quite a bit, and it works fine. This is kind of like an air powered router for steel- the big advantage is all you do is clamp the t bar down to a workbench or sawhorses, and just run the beveler down the whole length in one pass. http://www.nittokohki.com/en/displaycontent.asp?ID=73 Frankly, what I would do is just buy a few boxes of 4 1/2" flap discs for stainless, in about a 100 grit, either from Walter or from Klingspor, and just freehand it with a 4 1/2" angle grinder. I have rounded over the edges of thousands of feet of steel, bronze, aluminum and stainless with one of these, and with a little practice, its easy to get a consistent looking radius. The Alumina Zirconia discs from klingspor cut stainless very fast- and since this is just for the wheels of sliding doors, it doesnt have to be precise to the ten thousandth of an inch. |
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