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Default Creating a radial tip on 1/4" SS T-bar- HELP Needed

I know this is an amateur newsgroup but you guys have some pretty
clever ideas sometimes. I was visited by an architect today that needs
1500' of 2" x 2" SS T-bar prepared with a radial and very smooth tip on
one "point" of the Tee. The long leg will be buried in concrete, in a
horizontal position with the single leg sticking out of the concrete to
run sliding doors on. This is a very expensive residential
construction project. I have had several ideas and will not mention
any here for fear of deflecting a great idea one of you might have. I
have talked to a large polishing shop, specializing in linear
polishing, that has no way to make a radial edge but can polish one
once created. The material is already rolled and waiting the drilling
and finishing and couldn't be extruded in the shape we need as you
can't extrude SS. I think I can get enough budget to create a custom
machine if necessary but we are trying to avoid that. Got a cleaver
idea? Leigh at MarMachine.

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Tom Miller
 
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If you have access to a horizontal mill, get a cutter made to the radius
you require and set up a couple of vises on the table. Put a work stand with
a roller on it at the same height as the table. Start the mill in auto-feed
with a stop at the end of travel. Make a cup of coffee (not instant!) then
come back and set it up to do the next section. I doubt if it will need
polishing if its just a rail for a door roller.

Tom
wrote in message
oups.com...
I know this is an amateur newsgroup but you guys have some pretty
clever ideas sometimes. I was visited by an architect today that needs
1500' of 2" x 2" SS T-bar prepared with a radial and very smooth tip on
one "point" of the Tee. The long leg will be buried in concrete, in a
horizontal position with the single leg sticking out of the concrete to
run sliding doors on. This is a very expensive residential
construction project. I have had several ideas and will not mention
any here for fear of deflecting a great idea one of you might have. I
have talked to a large polishing shop, specializing in linear
polishing, that has no way to make a radial edge but can polish one
once created. The material is already rolled and waiting the drilling
and finishing and couldn't be extruded in the shape we need as you
can't extrude SS. I think I can get enough budget to create a custom
machine if necessary but we are trying to avoid that. Got a cleaver
idea? Leigh at MarMachine.



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woodworker88
 
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Sound like a pretty good idea. Go ahead and try it. You'll need a
good sized horizontal mill and someone willing to do the gruntwork of
running the piece.

Do they even make those huge clausing types any more? I've seen an
ancient one in the corner of a machine shop, but it looked at least 50
years old. Apparently only one old guy even knows how to run it
anymore.

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Gunner
 
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On 9 Jun 2005 23:56:11 -0700, "woodworker88"
wrote:

Sound like a pretty good idea. Go ahead and try it. You'll need a
good sized horizontal mill and someone willing to do the gruntwork of
running the piece.

Do they even make those huge clausing types any more? I've seen an
ancient one in the corner of a machine shop, but it looked at least 50
years old. Apparently only one old guy even knows how to run it
anymore.


Stub arbor and a concave cutter on a vertical mill might do it just
hunky dory. Ive got a goodly number of such cutters if Leigh needs
some. I just need to know the radius.

As Tom said..claim and cut, clamp and cut. Easy enough to make a
fixture to hold the material consistantly.

Gunner

"Pax Americana is a philosophy. Hardly an empire.
Making sure other people play nice and dont kill each other (and us)
off in job lots is hardly empire building, particularly when you give
them self determination under "play nice" rules.

Think of it as having your older brother knock the **** out of you
for torturing the cat." Gunner


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Karl Townsend
 
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How about a custom die for an iron worker? Stick it in, hit the foot peddle.
Next.

I'd be worried about a convex cutter with stainless. You'll need quite a bit
of material sticking out if you one pass it. Sounds like not rigid enough -
chatter - work harden - break cutter. Just a guess.

Don't know if I'd want to do 1500, but circular interpolate in CNC mill
would work. Make fixture to hold several. This would take some creative
work. One at a time would take forever. I've got an air actuated vise, you
could do two at a time in each vise and have several vises on the table.
Operator could change out while machine is on other vise.

Karl






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Ned Simmons
 
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In article 1118430737.044704.97620
@o13g2000cwo.googlegroups.com, says...


My best idea yet, had been to use a horizontal mill with a shop created
variable speed feed system under the Tee. Somewhat like a very slow
self feeder used in the woodworking industry. I have no problem with
the concept of a concave milling cutter it's really the cost of the
feed mechanism that is putting me off. There is no way to clamp and
reclamp every two feet through 1500 feet of this material. Secondly you
will get a mismatch or stop mark ever time you move the part. In some
cases we will be doing full 20" lengths.


How about something along the lines of a hydraulic press
feed? Two moving clamps rather than the typical feeder with
one stationary and one moving clamp. One clamp is advancing
the stock while the other is returning for another bite. My
gut reaction is that this would be more expensive to build
from scratch than your idea of a friction wheeled drive,
but maybe if a couple feeds could be scrounged...

Continuing with that concept, a pair of mills with power
feed on each table and a clamp on each table. The machine
doing the cutting has a roller fixture that locates the
stock under the cutter in addition to a clamp. Same
alternating advance, unclamp, return, clamp sequence as
above. In either case you obviously need some controls to
do the sequencing.

BTW, I know it's not your problem and it's probably too
late anyway, but SS can be extruded. I used to do some
tooling and machine design for GE's steam turbine division
and the airfoil shaped blades in the diaphragms were SS
extruded to very close tolerances.

Ned Simmons
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James Lerch
 
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I think I can get enough budget to create a custom
machine if necessary but we are trying to avoid that. Got a cleaver
idea? Leigh at MarMachine.


Can you just weld a long piece of 1/4" diameter SS round bar to the
top, polish it out and call it a day?


Take Care,
James Lerch
http://lerch.no-ip.com/atm (My telescope construction, Testing, and Coating site)

Press on: nothing in the world can take the place of perseverance.
Talent will not; nothing is more common than unsuccessful men with talent.
Genius will not; unrewarded genius is almost a proverb.
Education will not; the world is full of educated derelicts.
Persistence and determination alone are omnipotent.
Calvin Coolidge


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Roger Jones
 
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Could it be broached? I'm not sure about the forces involved, but would
think that a setup to pull the bar through would be a fairly simple thing to
do.

Roger

1500' of 2" x 2" SS T-bar prepared with a radial and very smooth tip on
one "point" of the Tee.



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Roger: That is good thinking! Your idea may bear further
consideration. I am sure a 10 or 12 tooth broach would be adequate so
all I have do do is figure a way to do the pulling. Leigh

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Koz
 
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wrote:

I know this is an amateur newsgroup but you guys have some pretty
clever ideas sometimes. I was visited by an architect today that needs
1500' of 2" x 2" SS T-bar prepared with a radial and very smooth tip on
one "point" of the Tee. The long leg will be buried in concrete, in a
horizontal position with the single leg sticking out of the concrete to
run sliding doors on. This is a very expensive residential
construction project. I have had several ideas and will not mention
any here for fear of deflecting a great idea one of you might have. I
have talked to a large polishing shop, specializing in linear
polishing, that has no way to make a radial edge but can polish one
once created. The material is already rolled and waiting the drilling
and finishing and couldn't be extruded in the shape we need as you
can't extrude SS. I think I can get enough budget to create a custom
machine if necessary but we are trying to avoid that. Got a cleaver
idea? Leigh at MarMachine.



Not exacty clear on the whole subject so I may be off track....

we skive the edges of stainless strip materials all the time to a half
round surface. Basically, you have a series of standard inserts and the
material is pulled through. Each insert takes off it's own little
portion like a broach tooth. The result is darned close to a half round
corner even though it's a series of chords on the arc. In our
application we can pull a continuous strip but you may be able to find a
way to pull random 20's individually. Something like a bull block to
draw rods would probably work.

Koz




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A couple of ideas-
Nitto makes a nifty little air powered beveling tool for putting a
single edge bevel on plate. Seems like it would be easy enough to make
roundover cutters for it- it just uses standard carbide cutters, held
in with an allen screw. I have used mine on stainless quite a bit, and
it works fine. This is kind of like an air powered router for steel-
the big advantage is all you do is clamp the t bar down to a workbench
or sawhorses, and just run the beveler down the whole length in one
pass.
http://www.nittokohki.com/en/displaycontent.asp?ID=73
Frankly, what I would do is just buy a few boxes of 4 1/2" flap discs
for stainless, in about a 100 grit, either from Walter or from
Klingspor, and just freehand it with a 4 1/2" angle grinder. I have
rounded over the edges of thousands of feet of steel, bronze, aluminum
and stainless with one of these, and with a little practice, its easy
to get a consistent looking radius. The Alumina Zirconia discs from
klingspor cut stainless very fast- and since this is just for the
wheels of sliding doors, it doesnt have to be precise to the ten
thousandth of an inch.

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Dan Jones
 
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I'd be tempted to get two or three half-inch shank routers, build a
router table that holds them inline, and have some carbide cutters made
up so you could push/pull the T-bar through (using a combination of
fixed and spring-loaded fences to keep things aligned.) The cutters
would have to be incremental the first one would take the corners off
the leg of the T, the next one would remove more material, and the final
one would finalize the rounding.

Might be interesting to try, anyway....
Dan Jones


wrote:
I know this is an amateur newsgroup but you guys have some pretty
clever ideas sometimes. I was visited by an architect today that needs
1500' of 2" x 2" SS T-bar prepared with a radial and very smooth tip on
one "point" of the Tee. The long leg will be buried in concrete, in a
horizontal position with the single leg sticking out of the concrete to
run sliding doors on. This is a very expensive residential
construction project. I have had several ideas and will not mention
any here for fear of deflecting a great idea one of you might have. I
have talked to a large polishing shop, specializing in linear
polishing, that has no way to make a radial edge but can polish one
once created. The material is already rolled and waiting the drilling
and finishing and couldn't be extruded in the shape we need as you
can't extrude SS. I think I can get enough budget to create a custom
machine if necessary but we are trying to avoid that. Got a cleaver
idea? Leigh at MarMachine.


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