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#1
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Radial arm saw vs. table saw. Tools for cabinetry?
I have a Craftsman 10" radial arm saw (inherited from father) that is
25+ years old. Saw is good condition. Since most of what I want to do is furniture/cabinet work and I have a miter saw and hand power saw, am looking at possibly selling the radial and getting a ~$200 table saw. Also, what tools are recommended from someone starting out. I used to do alot of woodworking years ago in school, but we had all the high power/industrial tools (loved the $80,000 planner they had). Now, don't have any tools except for miter, hand saw, and drill. I am wanting to start making furniture, with first being entertainment center. Any recommendations or ideas would greatly be appreciated. - Clayton |
#2
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I would keep the RA saw untill you can loosen up your budget a bit, $500+.
Greg "Dooler" wrote in message ... I have a Craftsman 10" radial arm saw (inherited from father) that is 25+ years old. Saw is good condition. Since most of what I want to do is furniture/cabinet work and I have a miter saw and hand power saw, am looking at possibly selling the radial and getting a ~$200 table saw. Also, what tools are recommended from someone starting out. I used to do alot of woodworking years ago in school, but we had all the high power/industrial tools (loved the $80,000 planner they had). Now, don't have any tools except for miter, hand saw, and drill. I am wanting to start making furniture, with first being entertainment center. Any recommendations or ideas would greatly be appreciated. - Clayton |
#3
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"Dooler" wrote in message ... I have a Craftsman 10" radial arm saw (inherited from father) that is 25+ years old. Saw is good condition. Since most of what I want to do is furniture/cabinet work and I have a miter saw and hand power saw, am looking at possibly selling the radial and getting a ~$200 table saw. Keep the RA for now. You don't want a $200 table saw. Really, you don't. |
#4
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Keep the RAS and get a TS also.
"Greg O" wrote in message ... I would keep the RA saw untill you can loosen up your budget a bit, $500+. Greg "Dooler" wrote in message ... I have a Craftsman 10" radial arm saw (inherited from father) that is 25+ years old. Saw is good condition. Since most of what I want to do is furniture/cabinet work and I have a miter saw and hand power saw, am looking at possibly selling the radial and getting a ~$200 table saw. Also, what tools are recommended from someone starting out. I used to do alot of woodworking years ago in school, but we had all the high power/industrial tools (loved the $80,000 planner they had). Now, don't have any tools except for miter, hand saw, and drill. I am wanting to start making furniture, with first being entertainment center. Any recommendations or ideas would greatly be appreciated. - Clayton |
#5
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On Mon, 27 Dec 2004 00:37:57 GMT, Dooler wrote:
I have a Craftsman 10" radial arm saw (inherited from father) that is 25+ years old. Saw is good condition. Since most of what I want to do is furniture/cabinet work and I have a miter saw and hand power saw, am looking at possibly selling the radial and getting a ~$200 table saw. Also, what tools are recommended from someone starting out. I used to do alot of woodworking years ago in school, but we had all the high power/industrial tools (loved the $80,000 planner they had). Now, don't have any tools except for miter, hand saw, and drill. I am wanting to start making furniture, with first being entertainment center. Any recommendations or ideas would greatly be appreciated. Keep the RA. Save up for a good Table saw. Alternative ...Some schools offer night courses, and you can use $80,000 equipment ..[that one I'd like to see], their wood [you pay for it later] and their advice ...it has been some time you say. My daughter still has the walnut coffe table my wife made at a night course while I was studying to finish university. |
#6
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Edwin Pawlowski responds:
"Dooler" wrote in message .. . I have a Craftsman 10" radial arm saw (inherited from father) that is 25+ years old. Saw is good condition. Since most of what I want to do is furniture/cabinet work and I have a miter saw and hand power saw, am looking at possibly selling the radial and getting a ~$200 table saw. Keep the RA for now. You don't want a $200 table saw. Really, you don't. Really, Ed's right. Work with the RAS for now. A 25 year old RAS in good shape is better than a new $200 table saw. Charlie Self "Political language... is designed to make lies sound truthful and murder respectable, and to give an appearance of solidity to pure wind." George Orwell |
#7
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Keep the RAS and read the following book to learn how to use your RAS:
http://mrsawdust.com/ -- Rumpty Radial Arm Saw Forum: http://forums.delphiforums.com/woodbutcher/start - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - "Dooler" wrote in message ... I have a Craftsman 10" radial arm saw (inherited from father) that is 25+ years old. Saw is good condition. Since most of what I want to do is furniture/cabinet work and I have a miter saw and hand power saw, am looking at possibly selling the radial and getting a ~$200 table saw. Also, what tools are recommended from someone starting out. I used to do alot of woodworking years ago in school, but we had all the high power/industrial tools (loved the $80,000 planner they had). Now, don't have any tools except for miter, hand saw, and drill. I am wanting to start making furniture, with first being entertainment center. Any recommendations or ideas would greatly be appreciated. - Clayton |
#8
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"Chuck Hoffman" wrote in message ... Well, perhaps he doesn't want a NEW $200 table saw. I bought an older Craftsman flex drive saw for $125 and put about $300 more into refurbishment and upgrades including a new rip fence and a carbide tipped blade. I guess someone has to state the obvious. while we admire they value you got for $425 and some hours of work, its still $225 over his budget, old or new. Bob |
#9
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I have a 29 year old Craftmans RA that I am using. I used it to build
my own kitchen cabinets, without any problems. Ripped all of the shelving and face frames, including oak trim for all of the shelves. There are time that I would like to have a TS but don't want to give the space in my garage. Have a drill press, band saw, and jointer and have made it without a TS. But I only work as a hobby. If I were to try and make more of woodworking than a hobby that I would like to have one. Al |
#10
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Looks like a good book, might just buy it. Thanks.
On Sun, 26 Dec 2004 22:45:06 -0500, "Rumpty" wrote: Keep the RAS and read the following book to learn how to use your RAS: http://mrsawdust.com/ |
#11
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Wanted to thank everyone for great replys. Looks like the
recommendation is to keep the RAS. In a way, I prefer the RAS (once I learn how to use it to it's full potential, other than cutting 2x4's) as it was my fathers and he has had it for all my life. My father was one who would teach me how to use tools and let me at it. Still remember working on making a box when I was 8 yrs old using the RAS...unsupervised. I am still looking at what tools I need (or would be very helpful) to start making furniture. Jointer or Planer might be something else I might want to get. But as Al Holstein put it, woodworking is going to be a hobby. I want to get the best quaity for the price, but don't want to spend the money for high end, all the features, tools as it IS A HOBBY. I have inherited alot of my father's tools. Unfotunately, they were never keep in top condition (RAS for instance was coated with grime and years of not being used... but still great condition). Many hand tools though have seen better days...rust. My initial inclination for $200 for a table saw was I had seen them cheaper (Sears) and figured this would be a good mid range. Guess not. I looked at the book that Rumpty recommended and I might go that route as it look like a very detailed book. - Clayton On Mon, 27 Dec 2004 00:37:57 GMT, Dooler wrote: I have a Craftsman 10" radial arm saw (inherited from father) that is 25+ years old. Saw is good condition. Since most of what I want to do is furniture/cabinet work and I have a miter saw and hand power saw, am looking at possibly selling the radial and getting a ~$200 table saw. Also, what tools are recommended from someone starting out. I used to do alot of woodworking years ago in school, but we had all the high power/industrial tools (loved the $80,000 planner they had). Now, don't have any tools except for miter, hand saw, and drill. I am wanting to start making furniture, with first being entertainment center. Any recommendations or ideas would greatly be appreciated. - Clayton |
#12
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Dooler wrote in news:9l4vs0hubcjsbeoplj5goik7ivk3jeld83
@4ax.com: My initial inclination for $200 for a table saw was I had seen them cheaper (Sears) and figured this would be a good mid range. Guess not. Mid range for a table saw is up about $1000 from there. Your RAS will do just fine for some time. You may never decide that you need to spend the bigger money. I looked at the book that Rumpty recommended and I might go that route as it look like a very detailed book. Rumpty knows RAS as well as anyone who hangs out here, and far better than most. It's not the tool I'd recommend starting with, if it meant digging into the wallet, but you have one, it was your Dad's, and that's a far different story. Go slowly on the new tool purchases, until you sort out what you already have. Cleaning up Dad's old tools is a healthy endeavor in any case. Patriarch |
#13
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"Al Holstein" wrote in message oups.com... I have a 29 year old Craftmans RA that I am using. I used it to build my own kitchen cabinets, without any problems. Ripped all of the shelving and face frames, including oak trim for all of the shelves. My TS broke down a few years ago and I had to do some ripping with the RAS to finish off a project. Ripping with the RAS is one of the most intimating power tool operations I ever experienced. Funny I could cut trees with my chain saw all day long and think nothing of it but ripping even one sheet of wood on the RAS scares the bee gees out of me. There are time that I would like to have a TS but don't want to give the space in my garage. Have a drill press, band saw, and jointer and have made it without a TS. But I only work as a hobby. If I were to try and make more of woodworking than a hobby that I would like to have one. Al |
#14
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Since noone else has mentioned it, let me suggest that you go to
www.radialarmsawrecall.com to see if your model qualifies for the free blade guard retrofit kit (new table top included). Lee -- To e-mail, replace "bucketofspam" with "dleegordon" |
#15
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On Mon, 27 Dec 2004 05:00:43 GMT, Dooler wrote:
Wanted to thank everyone for great replys. Looks like the recommendation is to keep the RAS. In a way, I prefer the RAS (once I learn how to use it to it's full potential, other than cutting 2x4's) as it was my fathers and he has had it for all my life. My father was one who would teach me how to use tools and let me at it. Still remember working on making a box when I was 8 yrs old using the RAS...unsupervised. I am still looking at what tools I need (or would be very helpful) to start making furniture. Jointer or Planer might be something else I might want to get. But as Al Holstein put it, woodworking is going to be a hobby. I want to get the best quaity for the price, but don't want to spend the money for high end, all the features, tools as it IS A HOBBY. I have inherited alot of my father's tools. Unfotunately, they were never keep in top condition (RAS for instance was coated with grime and years of not being used... but still great condition). Many hand tools though have seen better days...rust. don't be afraid of a little rust. do a google search for electrolysis rust removal. lots of tool refurb howto's out there on the web. old tools (especially hand tools) are often better than what you can get today for less than large amounts of cash. My initial inclination for $200 for a table saw was I had seen them cheaper (Sears) and figured this would be a good mid range. Guess not. I looked at the book that Rumpty recommended and I might go that route as it look like a very detailed book. - Clayton On Mon, 27 Dec 2004 00:37:57 GMT, Dooler wrote: I have a Craftsman 10" radial arm saw (inherited from father) that is 25+ years old. Saw is good condition. Since most of what I want to do is furniture/cabinet work and I have a miter saw and hand power saw, am looking at possibly selling the radial and getting a ~$200 table saw. Also, what tools are recommended from someone starting out. I used to do alot of woodworking years ago in school, but we had all the high power/industrial tools (loved the $80,000 planner they had). Now, don't have any tools except for miter, hand saw, and drill. I am wanting to start making furniture, with first being entertainment center. Any recommendations or ideas would greatly be appreciated. - Clayton |
#16
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On Mon, 27 Dec 2004 05:00:43 GMT, Dooler wrote:
Wanted to thank everyone for great replys. Looks like the recommendation is to keep the RAS. In a way, I prefer the RAS (once I learn how to use it to it's full potential, other than cutting 2x4's) Potential: Repeat cuts, compound cuts, panel doors, .....tons more. Lack of potential: I saw my neighbour using his to rip long pieces, with one arm in front of the saw, and one that had to slip behind to finish the cut. I gave him a table saw I had lying around [I had three more, one of which went to my son-in-law] , plus an old carbon tipped blade, plus a 3/4 HP motor from a nearby yard sale for $14. He's now making money, and still has both hands, and hasn't looked back. |
#17
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Frank wrote:
.... ...Ripping with the RAS is one of the most intim(id)ating power tool operations I ever experienced. ... ... but ripping even one sheet of wood on the RAS scares the bee gees out of me. I've heard and read this a lot...why? For years while saving for the PM 66 I used the RAS for everything and, in fact, before the jointer had it set up to use the shaping head for that as well. I've ripped a ton of material w/ nary a problem. All it takes (like a TS) is a long table to support the work, adjusting the hold down properly and using a push stick for narrow stock. I've never felt it was any more "scary" than the TS. Now that I have the TS, jointer, spindle shaper, et al., the RAS is relegated mostly to cutoff work, but I would still miss it if it were gone entirely. |
#18
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Patriarch wrote:
.... Mid range for a table saw is up about $1000 from there. Your RAS will do just fine for some time. You may never decide that you need to spend the bigger money. .... Well, upper mid-range for the casual basement/garage shop. Pretty good contractor saws are available for less than that. FWW had a review not too many issues ago... |
#19
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Am in lockstep with suggestions to keep the RAS and will add find the
alignment instructions and go through them and understand what each one does so when it comes time for troubleshooting you'll be ahead of the problem. I got one from a neighbor that was newer than yours that couldn't be aligned as one of two pieces for correcting a heel problem was missing from the factory. It resides in someone elses garage now. On Mon, 27 Dec 2004 05:00:43 GMT, Dooler wrote: I have inherited alot of my father's tools. Unfotunately, they were never keep in top condition (RAS for instance was coated with grime and years of not being used... but still great condition). Many hand tools though have seen better days...rust. |
#20
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Duane Bozarth wrote:
Frank wrote: ... ...Ripping with the RAS is one of the most intim(id)ating power tool operations I ever experienced. ... ... but ripping even one sheet of wood on the RAS scares the bee gees out of me. I've heard and read this a lot...why? For years while saving for the PM 66 I used the RAS for everything and, in fact, before the jointer had it set up to use the shaping head for that as well. I've ripped a ton of material w/ nary a problem. All it takes (like a TS) is a long table to support the work, adjusting the hold down properly and using a push stick for narrow stock. I've never felt it was any more "scary" than the TS. Now that I have the TS, jointer, spindle shaper, et al., the RAS is relegated mostly to cutoff work, but I would still miss it if it were gone entirely. Amen. No more dangerous than the TS if you use the holddowns, pawls, featherboards, etc. Keep your fingers away from spinning things (old Swedish saying). mahalo, jo4hn |
#21
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Guess who wrote:
.... Lack of potential: I saw my neighbour using his to rip long pieces, with one arm in front of the saw, and one that had to slip behind to finish the cut. ... Now that is scary... But, not the saw's fault the user wasn't set up right. I've seen a lot of dumb things on TS setups, too... Now, I'll not say it's the first choice to rip w/ the RAS if one has an alternative, but as I noted in previous post, I've done it a lot when I didn't have an alternative and if set up properly I think it's no more dangerous than many other operations... |
#22
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On Mon, 27 Dec 2004 08:33:19 -0600, Duane Bozarth
wrote: Frank wrote: ... ...Ripping with the RAS is one of the most intim(id)ating power tool operations I ever experienced. ... ... but ripping even one sheet of wood on the RAS scares the bee gees out of me. I've heard and read this a lot...why? For years while saving for the PM 66 I used the RAS for everything and, in fact, before the jointer had it set up to use the shaping head for that as well. I've ripped a ton of material w/ nary a problem. All it takes (like a TS) is a long table to support the work, adjusting the hold down properly and using a push stick for narrow stock. I've never felt it was any more "scary" than the TS. Now that I have the TS, jointer, spindle shaper, et al., the RAS is relegated mostly to cutoff work, but I would still miss it if it were gone entirely. ==================================== Well I still have ...and use... my 30+ year old Craftsman RAS ...but I will also admit that the darn thing has not moved off a 90 degree cut in the last 20 years...but I do have a Jig that allows me to cut perfect 45 degree cuts without moving the arm ... That said... I am really not one to be intimidated...but I do have plenty of reservations about ripping on "MY" RAS... just not as comfortable as using a table saw... As for the OP... I too suggest he keep the RAS (hell I wish I had a lot more "stuff" that belonged to my dad...) I have plenty BUT now that he is dead everything I see in my shop that once belonged to him just makes my day a little more enjoyable...nothing like taking a few seconds to remember him... ..................... ok I just took those seconds... I suggest that the OP pay himself ...every single week... if he makes 2 bucks an hour..then toss 2 bucks under the mattress each week...if he makes 50 bucks an hour then toss 50 bucks under that mattress... when the mattress gets lumpy...go buy a GOOD Table saw... Bob Griffiths |
#23
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In article ,
Dooler wrote: I have a Craftsman 10" radial arm saw (inherited from father) that is 25+ years old. Saw is good condition. Since most of what I want to do is furniture/cabinet work and I have a miter saw and hand power saw, am looking at possibly selling the radial and getting a ~$200 table saw. Also, what tools are recommended from someone starting out. I used to do alot of woodworking years ago in school, but we had all the high power/industrial tools (loved the $80,000 planner they had). Now, don't have any tools except for miter, hand saw, and drill. I am wanting to start making furniture, with first being entertainment center. Any recommendations or ideas would greatly be appreciated. - Clayton I absolutely hate Radial Arm Saws. The word ARM is there for a reason. They're wobbly, nasty, mean, unforgiving, evil, lethal, ugly, useless. dangerous pieces of ****. They should be outlawed, collected and dropped off on the SawStop's Corporation's front lawn. "Here, do something about THESE!!" Of the few nasty accidents I have personal knowledge of, people I know of, have in all cases, but one, involved radial ARM saws. Those devices are from SATAN! I am by no means a fanny-pack-wearing, John Tesh listening, tofu-sucking, Volvo-driving tree-hugger, in fact, I eat Steak Tartare...raw..and yes, I have even thrown an aluminum beer-can in the regular garbage and thrown a used piece of chewing gum out the car window and vented some nasty gasses directly to atmosphere. But RAS's should be outlawed, In My Ever So Humble Opinion. Rob "Common Sense Is Not Common" (Voltaire) |
#24
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"Bob G." wrote:
.... Well I still have ...and use... my 30+ year old Craftsman RAS ...but I will also admit that the darn thing has not moved off a 90 degree cut in the last 20 years...but I do have a Jig that allows me to cut perfect 45 degree cuts without moving the arm ... That said... I am really not one to be intimidated...but I do have plenty of reservations about ripping on "MY" RAS... just not as comfortable as using a table saw... As for the OP... I too suggest he keep the RAS (hell I wish I had a lot more "stuff" that belonged to my dad...) I have plenty BUT now that he is dead everything I see in my shop that once belonged to him just makes my day a little more enjoyable...nothing like taking a few seconds to remember him... ..................... ok I just took those seconds... Pretty much the same for me now as well although for some really long material the RAS is set up in a longer bench than the room the table saw is in will handle w/o hitting a wall so it's easier to use it than to move the TS---back then, I didn't have a TS... I'm back on the family farm and having all of Dad's and much of Granddad's "stuff" is, as you say, a treasured benefit...Dad wasn't very much on keeping old stuff for sentimental reasons, though, so I keep finding uses for something I remembered as a kid and discover it isn't around (the old wall-mounted hand crank drill press is one specific item). Of course, the old '28 Chevy truck I learned to drive in, the old Cat 22 or the AC D17 would be nice to still have, too... Also, OP probably won't get much for the RAS if he tries to sell it anyway... |
#25
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sandman wrote:
.... I absolutely hate Radial Arm Saws. The word ARM is there for a reason. They're wobbly, nasty, mean, unforgiving, evil, lethal, ugly, useless. dangerous pieces of ... Gee, why don't you tell us what you really think???? Different strokes... They have their uses although I'll grant that most inexpensive ones are not very good (but, then again, a lot of inexpensive things aren't all that good, come to think of it). On major function has been absorbed by the advent of the larger capacity chop saws although there's still nothing better for roughing out larger dimension rough stock assuming you've got the saw that will handle it, of course...I was lucky that the one I happened to find cheap when I got my first woodworking tool was, in fact, such a beast. |
#26
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In article ,
Duane Bozarth wrote: sandman wrote: ... I absolutely hate Radial Arm Saws. The word ARM is there for a reason. They're wobbly, nasty, mean, unforgiving, evil, lethal, ugly, useless. dangerous pieces of ... Gee, why don't you tell us what you really think???? I speak my mind, 'cuz I have nothing to lose r |
#27
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"sandman" wrote in message ... In article , Duane Bozarth wrote: sandman wrote: ... I absolutely hate Radial Arm Saws. The word ARM is there for a reason. They're wobbly, nasty, mean, unforgiving, evil, lethal, ugly, useless. dangerous pieces of ... Gee, why don't you tell us what you really think???? I speak my mind, 'cuz I have nothing to lose Yes you do, PLONK! Rich |
#28
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And of course it does. Thanks. Didn't know there was a guard that
could be installed. Since I am my father's son, any protection I can get from losing a finger would be helpful (my father never lost a finger, but always getting cut...IE: sliding knife towards fingers when sharpening). Thanks again. - Clayton On Mon, 27 Dec 2004 01:27:59 -0500, "Lee Gordon" wrote: Since noone else has mentioned it, let me suggest that you go to www.radialarmsawrecall.com to see if your model qualifies for the free blade guard retrofit kit (new table top included). Lee |
#29
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On Mon, 27 Dec 2004 13:48:49 -0600, Duane Bozarth
wrote: They have their uses although I'll grant that most inexpensive ones are not very good (but, then again, a lot of inexpensive things aren't all that good, come to think of it). Yeah, but they can be useful. I had a Sears RAS that I used to replicate window and door moldings in the Victorian we owned (some of the original stuff was pretty well shot), make some furniture, use for a lot of carpentry stuff, etc. And a Sears circular saw and drill were good enough to build a deck, several arbors, fences, etc. These tools took a heck of a beating, were drowned once in a flooded basement, and have kept working. All of this put down of cheap gear seems to have more to do with something other than utility. |
#30
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...but I do have a Jig that allows me to cut
perfect 45 degree cuts without moving the arm ... Do you have details or, better still, a plan?? Many thanks Malcolm Webb |
#31
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Use the same one you use on the tablesaw, less the runners.
It's just split fences at angle. I always tilted my blade, though. "Malcolm Webb" wrote in message o.uk... ...but I do have a Jig that allows me to cut perfect 45 degree cuts without moving the arm ... Do you have details or, better still, a plan?? Many thanks Malcolm Webb |
#32
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GregP wrote:
.... ... All of this put down of cheap gear seems to have more to do with something other than utility. There's a difference between "cheap" and "inexpensive" and there's also a difference in objectives of the owner/user, plus the personal preference of some for things that work well as opposed to "get by"...if you're satisfied w/ what you got, fine...I've found that every time I've tried to cut corners on a tool I end up being so dissatisfied that it costs me more in the long run because I'm out the initial expense plus the expense of getting the better tool anyway. On a RAS in particular, and what I was thinking of when writing the previous post, was that on many of the less expensive I've seen the repeatability of the arm position is poor at best and the arm is not rigid enough to stand up to heavy use. I just detest having to fiddle around to get the precise angle I want every time...w/ the Original Saw Company radial, the blocks are set and reproducible every time... |
#33
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GregP wrote: ... ... All of this put down of cheap gear seems to have more to do with something other than utility. I spoke from experience. I had one of those cheap Craftsman saws the OP suggested buying. Yes, it has something more to do that utility. It has to do with ease of use. It has a lot to do with making cross cuts on wide boards. Has a lot to do with making fixtures, jigs, and sleds that fit standard miter slots. Has a lot to do with accuracy of the fence. If you like cheap tools, you are free to use them. I tried them and decided to take a different course in my tool buying. Ed |
#34
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Forget the cheap table saw, your better off with handheld circular saw
than that junk. I do not care for a radial arm saw myself, but I have suggestions that may help.Set the saw up so it is slightly out of level from front to back. This will make the saw carriage slide away from you, this is a safety matter. Remove fence, add 3/8"x 3/4"x2" spacer blocks to the table. Put the blocks about 6" on center and replace fence. Now you created a space for sawdust to go, you won't get build up of dust along fence. Use saw for crosscuts only.I know you have ability to rip but it is dangerous.Rip with a skilsaw until you have the money to buy a real saw.If you need to make miters or angled cuts, make jigs for these angles and leave the saw set up at 90=B0.Check often that your blade is square to the fence, make any necessary adjustments if needed.Use a blade that is correct for a radial arm saw. mike |
#35
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On Tue, 28 Dec 2004 08:37:06 -0500, "George" george@least wrote:
Use the same one you use on the tablesaw, less the runners. It's just split fences at angle. I always tilted my blade, though. Thats just about right.... just a simple hunk of plywood with split adjustable fences... IT IS NOT the same one I use on the tablesaw but is identical except it has no runners and attaches to the RAS table with a couple of bolts... Bob Griffiths |
#36
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I had a "runner" I gripped in the fence slot, after removing the RAS fence.
That way I had full distance to the right, where the existing fence, if left in place would have interfered, and the full benefit of my tuning for square to fence and heel out. However, as indicated, went back to tilted blade. "Bob G." wrote in message ... On Tue, 28 Dec 2004 08:37:06 -0500, "George" george@least wrote: Use the same one you use on the tablesaw, less the runners. It's just split fences at angle. I always tilted my blade, though. Thats just about right.... just a simple hunk of plywood with split adjustable fences... IT IS NOT the same one I use on the tablesaw but is identical except it has no runners and attaches to the RAS table with a couple of bolts... Bob Griffiths |
#37
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GregP wrote:
.... [I also wonder about the "cheap" aspect when looking back. For instance, I bought a "cheap" Sears router 25 years ago: it was somewhere near the middle of the Craftsman line, somewhere in the $45 - $50 range. It didn't do badly but I did have to constantly readjust cutter depth and those adjustments were a designed- in pita. About a month ago I bought one of those new PC 2.25 hp units. It cost me $190. My guess is that with inflation, the two are pretty comparable in cost. And while the PC is somewhat more powerful and reasonably smooth, the Sears always had enough power to do what I wanted and it actually vibrates less and has similar heft to it. There's no doubt that the PC will be easier to use and make my time more efficient, but I don't see sufficient difference to call one a Yugo and the other a BMW. That's probably not too bad a comparison as it was about 25 years ago is about the time Sears really started the trend to "cheapening up" the Craftsman line...I, too, have a Craftsman router of slightly earlier vintage and still use it/like it for smaller work as it is lighter than the others. But, I don't think there's a single one bearing the Craftsman brand today that's built as well as it was... This is, of course, a never-ending debate... |
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On Tue, 28 Dec 2004 15:34:44 GMT, "Edwin Pawlowski"
wrote: If you like cheap tools, you are free to use them. I tried them and decided to take a different course in my tool buying. Ed I'm not sure that many people "like" cheap tools, so you're addressing the exception rather than the rule. My point is that if you're financially constrained, you will get by and get decent work done with whatever you can afford. That will most likely take you more effort, but unless you're a professional who must make a living off this work, or you're simply in a hurry, that shouldn't keep you from going ahead anyway. [I also wonder about the "cheap" aspect when looking back. For instance, I bought a "cheap" Sears router 25 years ago: it was somewhere near the middle of the Craftsman line, somewhere in the $45 - $50 range. It didn't do badly but I did have to constantly readjust cutter depth and those adjustments were a designed- in pita. About a month ago I bought one of those new PC 2.25 hp units. It cost me $190. My guess is that with inflation, the two are pretty comparable in cost. And while the PC is somewhat more powerful and reasonably smooth, the Sears always had enough power to do what I wanted and it actually vibrates less and has similar heft to it. There's no doubt that the PC will be easier to use and make my time more efficient, but I don't see sufficient difference to call one a Yugo and the other a BMW. bought |
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On Tue, 28 Dec 2004 07:57:25 -0800, kwoodhands wrote:
Forget the cheap table saw, your better off with handheld circular saw than that junk. I do not care for a radial arm saw myself, but I have suggestions that may help.Set the saw up so it is slightly out of level from front to back. This will make the saw carriage slide away from you, this is a safety matter. Remove fence, add 3/8"x 3/4"x2" spacer blocks to the table. Put the blocks about 6" on center and replace fence. Now you created a space for sawdust to go, you won't get build up of dust along fence. First of all, if the saw motor will move on the arm by itself with a slight tilt, it isn't adjusted properly. It should be adjusted so that it moves with some resistance, but smoothly. In moving the motor, you shouldn't be able to make the bearings slide on the arm with firm finger pressure on the bearings. Secondly, you should need no spacers between the main table and the fence, rather a 1/4" sacrificial top with 1/8" space between it and the fence. If you were to place spacers on the rear of the main table, you would need to trim the 3/8" off of the rear of the main table to keep the fence in the proper alignment. This could allow the fence to bow slightly away from the rear table causing precision problems. The RAS needs to be tuned in a strict sequence as most adjustments depend on previous adjstments. The best advice as stated here many times is to get either or both of the books written by Mr Sawdust and Jon Eakes and follow the alignment/tuneup instructions exactly. When set up and used properly, the RAS is not a dangerous tool for cross cutting or ripping. - Doug -- To escape criticism--do nothing, say nothing, be nothing." (Elbert Hubbard) |
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I have blades marked for table/miter saw so apparently there
is a difference. I've always used the same blades for RAS. What is the difference? I don't recall any advertised specifically for RAS. Dave Mike said: Use a blade that is correct for a radial arm saw. mike |
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