I have a wobble in idle pulley in my Wilton 2530 Drill press.
Idle pulley doesn't have any play and when rotated feels very smooth like it suppose to
be with a good bearing. But when rotating there is a wobble 1/8 to 1/4"(Pulley top
surface does not stay level). Looks like axis of rotation and axis of pulley is not the
same.
I want to take idle pulley off to inspect it. I can't figure out how to do it.
There is manual here http://www.wmhtoolgroup.com/partfiles/m_2530.pdf with Exploded view
on page 16. Idle pulley I need to take off is part #95.

All suggestions are appreciated.

Thanks

BTW I don't think the pulley shaft is bended because in this case pulley surface also
won't be level but it would stay in that way and won't wobble when rotating.

Alex wrote:
I have a wobble in idle pulley in my Wilton 2530 Drill press.
Idle pulley doesn't have any play and when rotated feels very smooth
like it suppose to be with a good bearing. But when rotating there is a
wobble 1/8 to 1/4"(Pulley top surface does not stay level). Looks like
axis of rotation and axis of pulley is not the same.
I want to take idle pulley off to inspect it. I can't figure out how to
do it.
There is manual here http://www.wmhtoolgroup.com/partfiles/m_2530.pdf
with Exploded view on page 16. Idle pulley I need to take off is part #95.

All suggestions are appreciated.

Thanks

Alex wrote:

I have a wobble in idle pulley in my Wilton 2530 Drill press.
Idle pulley doesn't have any play and when rotated feels very smooth
like it suppose to be with a good bearing. But when rotating there is a
wobble 1/8 to 1/4"(Pulley top surface does not stay level). Looks like
axis of rotation and axis of pulley is not the same.
I want to take idle pulley off to inspect it. I can't figure out how to
do it.
There is manual here http://www.wmhtoolgroup.com/partfiles/m_2530.pdf
with Exploded view on page 16. Idle pulley I need to take off is part #95.

All suggestions are appreciated.

Don't disassemble it. Don't even remove the belt. Just spin it slowly in
place and see if it wobbles. Best would be a dial test indicator, but you
could just cut out a piece of white cardboard so it sits just above the
outer rim, then your eye can watch the gap. Or maybe a tri-square too, whatever.
You don't sound like a guy with a lathe .. those pulleys are made to very
loose specs so buying a replacement wouldn't help you -- what are you going to
do if the pulley isn't bored axially?

GWE

Alex wrote:
I have a wobble in idle pulley in my Wilton 2530 Drill press.
Idle pulley doesn't have any play and when rotated feels very smooth
like it suppose to be with a good bearing. But when rotating there is a
wobble 1/8 to 1/4"(Pulley top surface does not stay level). Looks like
axis of rotation and axis of pulley is not the same.
I want to take idle pulley off to inspect it. I can't figure out how to
do it.
There is manual here http://www.wmhtoolgroup.com/partfiles/m_2530.pdf
with Exploded view on page 16. Idle pulley I need to take off is part #95.

All suggestions are appreciated.

From the drawing it looks like there is a ball race pressed into the
pulley and supported on a static shaft at the centre. For there to be a
1/8" to 1/4" wobble the bearing would be virtually dropping to pieces,
so I suspect the pulley isn't true, i.e., this is the way is was made. I
have a cheap drill press and the pulleys in this aren't quite true. The
wobble in my drill press is perhaps 0.5 mm (from my recollection). If it
doesn't affect the operation of the machine, don't worry about it. If it
does, you could try complaining to the shop you bought it from.

Best wishes,

Chris

Because of this wobble whole drill press vibrates. I can't say it's terribly bad but
very annoying and I want to fix. Can this be fixed on a lathe? May be I should try to
find a true pulley on ebay?


Christopher Tidy wrote:
Alex wrote:

I have a wobble in idle pulley in my Wilton 2530 Drill press.
Idle pulley doesn't have any play and when rotated feels very smooth
like it suppose to be with a good bearing. But when rotating there is
a wobble 1/8 to 1/4"(Pulley top surface does not stay level). Looks
like axis of rotation and axis of pulley is not the same.
I want to take idle pulley off to inspect it. I can't figure out how
to do it.
There is manual here http://www.wmhtoolgroup.com/partfiles/m_2530.pdf
with Exploded view on page 16. Idle pulley I need to take off is part
#95.

All suggestions are appreciated.


From the drawing it looks like there is a ball race pressed into the
pulley and supported on a static shaft at the centre. For there to be a
1/8" to 1/4" wobble the bearing would be virtually dropping to pieces,
so I suspect the pulley isn't true, i.e., this is the way is was made. I
have a cheap drill press and the pulleys in this aren't quite true. The
wobble in my drill press is perhaps 0.5 mm (from my recollection). If it
doesn't affect the operation of the machine, don't worry about it. If it
does, you could try complaining to the shop you bought it from.

Best wishes,

Chris

Looks like we identified the problem for sure. It's a not true pulley.
It's about 3 degrees that translates into very obvious 1/4" or even more wobble. Is
there any solution to fix this?
BTW It's not a cheap drill press it retails for $530 new. I bought it used in very good
condition.


Grant Erwin wrote:
Alex wrote:

I have a wobble in idle pulley in my Wilton 2530 Drill press.
Idle pulley doesn't have any play and when rotated feels very smooth
like it suppose to be with a good bearing. But when rotating there is
a wobble 1/8 to 1/4"(Pulley top surface does not stay level). Looks
like axis of rotation and axis of pulley is not the same.
I want to take idle pulley off to inspect it. I can't figure out how
to do it.
There is manual here http://www.wmhtoolgroup.com/partfiles/m_2530.pdf
with Exploded view on page 16. Idle pulley I need to take off is part
#95.

All suggestions are appreciated.


Don't disassemble it. Don't even remove the belt. Just spin it slowly in
place and see if it wobbles. Best would be a dial test indicator, but you
could just cut out a piece of white cardboard so it sits just above the
outer rim, then your eye can watch the gap. Or maybe a tri-square too,
whatever.
You don't sound like a guy with a lathe .. those pulleys are made to very
loose specs so buying a replacement wouldn't help you -- what are you
going to
do if the pulley isn't bored axially?

GWE

I have a wobble in idle pulley in my Wilton 2530 Drill press.
Idle pulley doesn't have any play and when rotated feels very smooth
like it suppose to be with a good bearing. But when rotating there is
a wobble 1/8 to 1/4"(Pulley top surface does not stay level). Looks
like axis of rotation and axis of pulley is not the same.
I want to take idle pulley off to inspect it. I can't figure out how
to do it.
There is manual here http://www.wmhtoolgroup.com/partfiles/m_2530.pdf
with Exploded view on page 16. Idle pulley I need to take off is
part #95.

All suggestions are appreciated.

From the drawing it looks like there is a ball race pressed into the
pulley and supported on a static shaft at the centre. For there to be
a 1/8" to 1/4" wobble the bearing would be virtually dropping to
pieces, so I suspect the pulley isn't true, i.e., this is the way is
was made. I have a cheap drill press and the pulleys in this aren't
quite true. The wobble in my drill press is perhaps 0.5 mm (from my
recollection). If it doesn't affect the operation of the machine,
don't worry about it. If it does, you could try complaining to the
shop you bought it from.

Because of this wobble whole drill press vibrates. I can't say it's
terribly bad but very annoying and I want to fix. Can this be fixed
on a lathe? May be I should try to find a true pulley on ebay?

Yes, you might be able to fix this on a lathe (provided that the pulley
itself isn't oval) but it won't be too easy because the ball race is
held within the pulley. If the pulley is bored off-axis you'd have to
make an insert to go in the pulley.

If it isn't out of guarantee I would take it back to the store you
bought it from. But if not, even if the pulleys are made to loose specs,
some are more accurate than others, so a replacement might help you. If
you do see a replacement part of eBay it might solve your problem.

Chris

Alex wrote:

Grant Erwin wrote:

Alex wrote:

I have a wobble in idle pulley in my Wilton 2530 Drill press.
Idle pulley doesn't have any play and when rotated feels very smooth
like it suppose to be with a good bearing. But when rotating there is
a wobble 1/8 to 1/4"(Pulley top surface does not stay level). Looks
like axis of rotation and axis of pulley is not the same.
I want to take idle pulley off to inspect it. I can't figure out how
to do it.
There is manual here http://www.wmhtoolgroup.com/partfiles/m_2530.pdf
with Exploded view on page 16. Idle pulley I need to take off is
part #95.

All suggestions are appreciated.

Don't disassemble it. Don't even remove the belt. Just spin it slowly in
place and see if it wobbles. Best would be a dial test indicator, but you
could just cut out a piece of white cardboard so it sits just above the
outer rim, then your eye can watch the gap. Or maybe a tri-square too,
whatever.
You don't sound like a guy with a lathe .. those pulleys are made to very
loose specs so buying a replacement wouldn't help you -- what are you
going to
do if the pulley isn't bored axially?

Looks like we identified the problem for sure. It's a not true pulley.
It's about 3 degrees that translates into very obvious 1/4" or even
more wobble.
Is there any solution to fix this? BTW It's not a cheap
drill press it retails for $530 new. I bought it used in very good
condition.

The axis of the pulley and the axis of the bearing are about 3 degrees
apart? So the circumference of the pulley moves up and down by about
1/4" as it rotates?

I would try to find a replacement pulley, either new or used. If you
can't find a new one, and the circumference of the pulley is reasonably
round, you could bore out the centre of the pulley until the bored hole
is true, then make some kind of an insert to fit between the bearing and
pulley. Or you could make a complete new pulley, but this is a big job
because the pulley has several V-belt grooves.

Best to buy a replacement part I think.

Best wishes,

Chris

Wilton used to be a prestigious US manufacturer. Now they have prostituted
their good name by allowing it to go on a bunch of import machinery. If I
were you if you bought this machine new I would take it back and show the
vendor the problem and look carefully at another model. If you can't do that
for whatever reason, then I suggest contacting Wilton's parts support and
telling them your pulley is defective and strongly requesting they provide
you a replacement free of charge. Be assertive and ask for what you want,
this is no time to be timid. Don't hesitate to ask to speak to managers, and
take your claim up the chain.

That having been said, most cheap drill presses vibrate (and yes, even
though it doesn't seem like it to you, this is a cheap big-box-store
consumer grade machine, not an industrial model) and there isn't all that
much you can do about it. Many guys advocate the mindset when you buy import
machines to regard them as a sort of kit, which you can modify to make into
a useful tool. A machinist can make a new pulley which will run true but
if you aren't skilled with a lathe (and have one to work on) this won't
be helpful to you because this is a time-consuming job and pro machinists
expect to be paid for their time, and making a new pulley would very likely
cost more than what you paid for the machine.

Maybe you should read the following on how to buy a drill press:

http://www.tinyisland.com/htbdrillp.txt

What I wrote in there is old, but still very much relates.

GWE

Alex wrote:

Looks like we identified the problem for sure. It's a not true pulley.
It's about 3 degrees that translates into very obvious 1/4" or even more
wobble. Is there any solution to fix this?
BTW It's not a cheap drill press it retails for $530 new. I bought it
used in very good condition.


Grant Erwin wrote:

Alex wrote:

I have a wobble in idle pulley in my Wilton 2530 Drill press.
Idle pulley doesn't have any play and when rotated feels very smooth
like it suppose to be with a good bearing. But when rotating there is
a wobble 1/8 to 1/4"(Pulley top surface does not stay level). Looks
like axis of rotation and axis of pulley is not the same.
I want to take idle pulley off to inspect it. I can't figure out how
to do it.
There is manual here http://www.wmhtoolgroup.com/partfiles/m_2530.pdf
with Exploded view on page 16. Idle pulley I need to take off is
part #95.

All suggestions are appreciated.



Don't disassemble it. Don't even remove the belt. Just spin it slowly in
place and see if it wobbles. Best would be a dial test indicator, but you
could just cut out a piece of white cardboard so it sits just above the
outer rim, then your eye can watch the gap. Or maybe a tri-square too,
whatever.
You don't sound like a guy with a lathe .. those pulleys are made to very
loose specs so buying a replacement wouldn't help you -- what are you
going to
do if the pulley isn't bored axially?

GWE

How do I take the pulley off If I find a replacement?


Christopher Tidy wrote:
I have a wobble in idle pulley in my Wilton 2530 Drill press.
Idle pulley doesn't have any play and when rotated feels very smooth
like it suppose to be with a good bearing. But when rotating there
is a wobble 1/8 to 1/4"(Pulley top surface does not stay level).
Looks like axis of rotation and axis of pulley is not the same.
I want to take idle pulley off to inspect it. I can't figure out how
to do it.
There is manual here
http://www.wmhtoolgroup.com/partfiles/m_2530.pdf with Exploded view
on page 16. Idle pulley I need to take off is part #95.

All suggestions are appreciated.


From the drawing it looks like there is a ball race pressed into the
pulley and supported on a static shaft at the centre. For there to be
a 1/8" to 1/4" wobble the bearing would be virtually dropping to
pieces, so I suspect the pulley isn't true, i.e., this is the way is
was made. I have a cheap drill press and the pulleys in this aren't
quite true. The wobble in my drill press is perhaps 0.5 mm (from my
recollection). If it doesn't affect the operation of the machine,
don't worry about it. If it does, you could try complaining to the
shop you bought it from.


Because of this wobble whole drill press vibrates. I can't say it's
terribly bad but very annoying and I want to fix. Can this be fixed
on a lathe? May be I should try to find a true pulley on ebay?

Yes, you might be able to fix this on a lathe (provided that the pulley
itself isn't oval) but it won't be too easy because the ball race is
held within the pulley. If the pulley is bored off-axis you'd have to
make an insert to go in the pulley.

If it isn't out of guarantee I would take it back to the store you
bought it from. But if not, even if the pulleys are made to loose specs,
some are more accurate than others, so a replacement might help you. If
you do see a replacement part of eBay it might solve your problem.

Chris

Alex wrote:
How do I take the pulley off If I find a replacement?

I'm not sure. I find it hard to tell from the picture in the manual.
Perhaps someone else can figure it out?

Chris

In article ,
Christopher Tidy wrote:


Alex wrote:
How do I take the pulley off If I find a replacement?

I'm not sure. I find it hard to tell from the picture in the manual.
Perhaps someone else can figure it out?

Well ... first off -- in spite of it being called a "Wilton", it
is almost identical to the Taiwanese drill press which I got in about
1977 or so -- shortly after I got married.

So -- in spite of what you paid for it, it is no better than
what I got for about $150.00 back in 1977. The main difference apparent
is the location of the switch. Mine is on the left side, with a second one
which switches on or off the light bulb screwed into the head casting
behind the spindle. (Oh yes -- mine is a 16-speed one, and it has a
round table instead of your nearly square one.) And your depth stop is
better than mine -- which depends on the collar around the spider for
feeding the quill down. Other than that, I could use the manual which
you pointed out for working on mine.

Now -- if you slack the belts (as you would for changing the
steps for a different speed), and unhook both from the idler pulley, you
can lift the pulley and its arm straight up from the headstock casting.
(I know because I did this when cutting an extension to the hole through
which the arm passed in the belt guard, so I could shift the guard and
eliminate scraping of the idler pulley on the side of the guard in
certain belt settings.

Beyond that, I have not yet had to go. But looking at the
section of the manual page blown up a bit, all I can see is the bearing
which fits onto the top of the arm, and into the center of the pulley.

I would *hope* that there is a c-ring or a nut on the top of the
arm to keep the bearing from sliding up and off.

The bearing may be simply pressed into place, or it may have
another clip retaining the outer race. To be honest, I would have
expected a second bearing to help assure that the pulley ran on center,
but the drawing does not show one.

Your problem may be that the bearing has slipped in the bore in
the pulley, so it is no longer concentric with the pulley. (This would
mean that the bore is a very sloppy fit.)

Or -- it might be that a single bearing can't handle angular
loads, as would be put on it with one belt at the top and the other at
the bottom.

But -- at least, once you have lifted the pulley and arm
assembly out of the drill press, you can examine it more closely to try
to determine both what holds it together, and where the eccentricity is.

If the bore in which the bearing is mounted runs true, while the
outer sheaves do not, you need a new pulley. You may opt to buy one or
to make one, but you certainly need one.

If the outer race of the bearing is tilted, you need a new
bearing, or if possible, you need to mount two of them in the pulley to
better handle the unbalanced loads.

So -- pull the assembly and examine it where you can more
conveniently do so. Stuck in the top of the drill press makes life more
difficult.

Good Luck,
DoN.

--
Email: | Voice (all times): (703) 938-4564
(too) near Washington D.C. | http://www.d-and-d.com/dnichols/DoN.html
--- Black Holes are where God is dividing by zero ---

DoN. Nichols wrote:
... To be honest, I would have
expected a second bearing to help assure that the pulley ran on center,
but the drawing does not show one. ...

Indeed, it doesn't show one and it's hard for me to imagine how you
could do it with just one. BUT, the parts list shows a "quantity" of 2
for that part #. And the 20" DP diagram shows 2. So, there probably is
actually 2.

Bob

You are right!
I was able to take off the pulley straight up along with it's arm just by pulling it
from headstock casting.
I don't see any c-ring or nut that holds pulley on it's shaft.
Is it called press fit?
Now next step is to get pulley off the shaft.
Is it safe if I just hit on top of the shaft with Plastic-Tip Hammer
while holding pulley?

Thanks



DoN. Nichols wrote:
In article ,
Christopher Tidy wrote:


Alex wrote:

How do I take the pulley off If I find a replacement?

I'm not sure. I find it hard to tell from the picture in the manual.
Perhaps someone else can figure it out?


Well ... first off -- in spite of it being called a "Wilton", it
is almost identical to the Taiwanese drill press which I got in about
1977 or so -- shortly after I got married.

So -- in spite of what you paid for it, it is no better than
what I got for about $150.00 back in 1977. The main difference apparent
is the location of the switch. Mine is on the left side, with a second one
which switches on or off the light bulb screwed into the head casting
behind the spindle. (Oh yes -- mine is a 16-speed one, and it has a
round table instead of your nearly square one.) And your depth stop is
better than mine -- which depends on the collar around the spider for
feeding the quill down. Other than that, I could use the manual which
you pointed out for working on mine.

Now -- if you slack the belts (as you would for changing the
steps for a different speed), and unhook both from the idler pulley, you
can lift the pulley and its arm straight up from the headstock casting.
(I know because I did this when cutting an extension to the hole through
which the arm passed in the belt guard, so I could shift the guard and
eliminate scraping of the idler pulley on the side of the guard in
certain belt settings.

Beyond that, I have not yet had to go. But looking at the
section of the manual page blown up a bit, all I can see is the bearing
which fits onto the top of the arm, and into the center of the pulley.

I would *hope* that there is a c-ring or a nut on the top of the
arm to keep the bearing from sliding up and off.

The bearing may be simply pressed into place, or it may have
another clip retaining the outer race. To be honest, I would have
expected a second bearing to help assure that the pulley ran on center,
but the drawing does not show one.

Your problem may be that the bearing has slipped in the bore in
the pulley, so it is no longer concentric with the pulley. (This would
mean that the bore is a very sloppy fit.)

Or -- it might be that a single bearing can't handle angular
loads, as would be put on it with one belt at the top and the other at
the bottom.

But -- at least, once you have lifted the pulley and arm
assembly out of the drill press, you can examine it more closely to try
to determine both what holds it together, and where the eccentricity is.

If the bore in which the bearing is mounted runs true, while the
outer sheaves do not, you need a new pulley. You may opt to buy one or
to make one, but you certainly need one.

If the outer race of the bearing is tilted, you need a new
bearing, or if possible, you need to mount two of them in the pulley to
better handle the unbalanced loads.

So -- pull the assembly and examine it where you can more
conveniently do so. Stuck in the top of the drill press makes life more
difficult.

Good Luck,
DoN.

Alex wrote:


You are right!
I was able to take off the pulley straight up along with it's arm just
by pulling it from headstock casting.
I don't see any c-ring or nut that holds pulley on it's shaft.
Is it called press fit?
Now next step is to get pulley off the shaft.
Is it safe if I just hit on top of the shaft with Plastic-Tip Hammer
while holding pulley?

Thanks

What does it look like on the bottom?
Is the pulley bored thru?

Raeson I ask is I would try to tap the pulley to run true to the bearing
and secure it.

Yes, the pulley is bored thru.

wws wrote:
Alex wrote:


You are right!
I was able to take off the pulley straight up along with it's arm just
by pulling it from headstock casting.
I don't see any c-ring or nut that holds pulley on it's shaft.
Is it called press fit?
Now next step is to get pulley off the shaft.
Is it safe if I just hit on top of the shaft with Plastic-Tip Hammer
while holding pulley?

Thanks

What does it look like on the bottom?
Is the pulley bored thru?

Raeson I ask is I would try to tap the pulley to run true to the bearing
and secure it.

Alex wrote:

Yes, the pulley is bored thru.

If I understand, the pulley has no "bottom."
So the pully CAN move with relation the bearing.

Tap it true, and secure it.

I've spend about an hour trying to true it by tap.
The pulley response very good to tapping. One light tap and it moves a lot.
The problem that it moves along the shaft too. So when I have it trued it's always
little higher or little lower compared to other pulleys. Also even I were able to make
it true I am sure it won't stay that way for too long.

I disassembled pulley. You can find picture he
http://www.kodakgallery.com/Slidesho...e&conn_speed=1

The pulley is hold in place by only one bearing. No wonder it moves around considering
that pulley is made of soft aluminum. Wilton sucks!

Is there any solution to this?


wws wrote:
Alex wrote:

Yes, the pulley is bored thru.

If I understand, the pulley has no "bottom."
So the pully CAN move with relation the bearing.

Tap it true, and secure it.

Alex wrote:

I've spend about an hour trying to true it by tap.
The pulley response very good to tapping. One light tap and it moves a lot.
The problem that it moves along the shaft too. So when I have it trued
it's always little higher or little lower compared to other pulleys.
Also even I were able to make it true I am sure it won't stay that way
for too long.

I disassembled pulley. You can find picture he
http://www.kodakgallery.com/Slidesho...e&conn_speed=1


The pulley is hold in place by only one bearing. No wonder it moves
around considering that pulley is made of soft aluminum. Wilton sucks!

Is there any solution to this?


wws wrote:

Alex wrote:

Yes, the pulley is bored thru.

If I understand, the pulley has no "bottom."
So the pully CAN move with relation the bearing.

Tap it true, and secure it.
This thing...
there is room in the pully for a larger bearing
in width

yep,
true it and solder it, set screw it or as a last resort glue it.

In article ,
Alex wrote:
I've spend about an hour trying to true it by tap.
The pulley response very good to tapping. One light tap and it moves a lot.
The problem that it moves along the shaft too. So when I have it trued it's always
little higher or little lower compared to other pulleys. Also even I were able to make
it true I am sure it won't stay that way for too long.

I disassembled pulley. You can find picture he
http://www.kodakgallery.com/Slidesho...e&conn_speed=1

Ouch! I'm not surprised that it has difficulty staying in
place.

The pulley is hold in place by only one bearing. No wonder it moves around considering
that pulley is made of soft aluminum. Wilton sucks!

Is there any solution to this?

Several possible ones. It looks as though the pulley is bored
to three diameters. The largest of the three is to match the bearing.

So -- the first question is whether you can get away with boring
it deeper on a lathe. Ideally, deep enough to hold two identical
bearings. (The pulley grooves may be too small to allow this.) If you
do this, you will have to turn a new shaft for the bearings to run on.
It looks awkward to hold that arm, so you may have to make a new one for
the task.

A second option, which also requires a lathe, is to thread the
bore partway, and make a ring to thread into it to secure the outer race
of the bearing. (Check the length of the bore and the width of the
bearing's outer race to see whether this will work.

A third option would be to make a plate to go over the bearing,
with a hole for the end of the shaft to pass through, and screw it to
the flat surrounding the bearing bore. If the bearing is not as wide as
the length of the bore, you'll either need to make a projecting ridge
when you make the plate on a lathe, or make a ring to go between the
bearing and the plate.

A forth option would be to get some Loctite bearing mount
compound (I forget what the number is for that -- but go to a bearing
place and they will have it, as well as many Loctite threadlocker
compounds.

However, remembering that you apparently got the drill press
*new* -- you should complain loudly to the people you bought it from,
and see if they will supply you with one in better shape. *Maybe* they
have had enough trouble from this design so they have gone back to the
two-bearing design which the parts list suggests was at one time the
standard.

The web site which is hosting your image makes it impossible to
save a copy of the image so I can enlarge it and check for fine detail.
And no -- don't bother e-mailing me a copy -- it won't get through the
file size limitation on my email which keeps me from getting flooded
with each new virus that comes out -- not that they would harm my unix
systems, but 200+ copies (which I used to get when a new one came out)
are a serious waste of time and space.

Why didn't you use the dropbox (http://www.metalworking.com) for
saving the image so people could download it. The site which you used
appears to be designed for commerce. You even have a price on it. :-)

Good Luck,
DoN.
--
Email: | Voice (all times): (703) 938-4564
(too) near Washington D.C. | http://www.d-and-d.com/dnichols/DoN.html
--- Black Holes are where God is dividing by zero ---

I don't know how much clearance there is between the shaft hole and the
v-belt groove in the outside of the pulley, but here is what I would
do:
First, get rid of that atrocious old bearing. Go to mcmaster-carr and
order 2 new decent bearings for your shaft size. Find ones with an od
larger than the current one. Then you will need to find someone with a
mill and a boring bar. They will be able to re-bore the hole true to
the pulley, regardless of the orientation of the previous holes. Also
bore the hole 3 thou undersized. This size is critical. You will need
to find an arbor press or substitute (drill press quill, vise, etc.,)
and press the new bearings in place. Without this press fit, the
bearings will not do you any good. After the pulley assembly is
complete, put it back on the shaft. The problem should be fixed.

woodworker88 wrote:

I don't know how much clearance there is between the shaft hole and the
v-belt groove in the outside of the pulley, but here is what I would
do:
First, get rid of that atrocious old bearing. Go to mcmaster-carr and
order 2 new decent bearings for your shaft size. Find ones with an od
larger than the current one. Then you will need to find someone with a
mill and a boring bar. They will be able to re-bore the hole true to
the pulley, regardless of the orientation of the previous holes. Also
bore the hole 3 thou undersized. This size is critical. You will need
to find an arbor press or substitute (drill press quill, vise, etc.,)
and press the new bearings in place. Without this press fit, the
bearings will not do you any good. After the pulley assembly is
complete, put it back on the shaft. The problem should be fixed.

its potmetal
chilling before press may help for about 2 secs
cheap is cheap
do better next time

Thanks for suggestion.
I just posted some pictures of the pulley he
http://www.metalworking.com/dropbox/pulley1.jpg
http://www.metalworking.com/dropbox/pulley2.jpg
http://www.metalworking.com/dropbox/pulley3.jpg
http://www.metalworking.com/dropbox/pulley4.jpg



DoN. Nichols wrote:
In article ,
Alex wrote:

I've spend about an hour trying to true it by tap.
The pulley response very good to tapping. One light tap and it moves a lot.
The problem that it moves along the shaft too. So when I have it trued it's always
little higher or little lower compared to other pulleys. Also even I were able to make
it true I am sure it won't stay that way for too long.

I disassembled pulley. You can find picture he
http://www.kodakgallery.com/Slidesho...e&conn_speed=1


Ouch! I'm not surprised that it has difficulty staying in
place.


The pulley is hold in place by only one bearing. No wonder it moves around considering
that pulley is made of soft aluminum. Wilton sucks!

Is there any solution to this?


Several possible ones. It looks as though the pulley is bored
to three diameters. The largest of the three is to match the bearing.

So -- the first question is whether you can get away with boring
it deeper on a lathe. Ideally, deep enough to hold two identical
bearings. (The pulley grooves may be too small to allow this.) If you
do this, you will have to turn a new shaft for the bearings to run on.
It looks awkward to hold that arm, so you may have to make a new one for
the task.

A second option, which also requires a lathe, is to thread the
bore partway, and make a ring to thread into it to secure the outer race
of the bearing. (Check the length of the bore and the width of the
bearing's outer race to see whether this will work.

A third option would be to make a plate to go over the bearing,
with a hole for the end of the shaft to pass through, and screw it to
the flat surrounding the bearing bore. If the bearing is not as wide as
the length of the bore, you'll either need to make a projecting ridge
when you make the plate on a lathe, or make a ring to go between the
bearing and the plate.

A forth option would be to get some Loctite bearing mount
compound (I forget what the number is for that -- but go to a bearing
place and they will have it, as well as many Loctite threadlocker
compounds.

However, remembering that you apparently got the drill press
*new* -- you should complain loudly to the people you bought it from,
and see if they will supply you with one in better shape. *Maybe* they
have had enough trouble from this design so they have gone back to the
two-bearing design which the parts list suggests was at one time the
standard.

The web site which is hosting your image makes it impossible to
save a copy of the image so I can enlarge it and check for fine detail.
And no -- don't bother e-mailing me a copy -- it won't get through the
file size limitation on my email which keeps me from getting flooded
with each new virus that comes out -- not that they would harm my unix
systems, but 200+ copies (which I used to get when a new one came out)
are a serious waste of time and space.

Why didn't you use the dropbox (http://www.metalworking.com) for
saving the image so people could download it. The site which you used
appears to be designed for commerce. You even have a price on it. :-)

Good Luck,
DoN.

Alex wrote:

Thanks for suggestion.
I just posted some pictures of the pulley he
http://www.metalworking.com/dropbox/pulley1.jpg
http://www.metalworking.com/dropbox/pulley2.jpg
http://www.metalworking.com/dropbox/pulley3.jpg
http://www.metalworking.com/dropbox/pulley4.jpg

I asked you about this
The bearing "register" appears to be about .030 in.
It will have some freeplay no matter.

wws wrote:
Alex wrote:

Thanks for suggestion.
I just posted some pictures of the pulley he
http://www.metalworking.com/dropbox/pulley1.jpg
http://www.metalworking.com/dropbox/pulley2.jpg
http://www.metalworking.com/dropbox/pulley3.jpg
http://www.metalworking.com/dropbox/pulley4.jpg

I asked you about this

The bearing "register" appears to be about .030 in.
It will have some freeplay no matter.

You suggest that if I just replace the bearing it should help?
I just posted better pictures of bearing:
http://metalworking.com/DropBox/pulley_bb.jpg

Here is the bottom part of pulley pictu
http://metalworking.com/DropBox/pulley_bottom.jpg

I am afraid there is not enough space to bore it to put two bearings.
Do you think a bearing of the same width but bigger in diameter will help?

Thanks

DoN. Nichols wrote:
In article ,
Alex wrote:

I've spend about an hour trying to true it by tap.
The pulley response very good to tapping. One light tap and it moves a lot.
The problem that it moves along the shaft too. So when I have it trued it's always
little higher or little lower compared to other pulleys. Also even I were able to make
it true I am sure it won't stay that way for too long.

I disassembled pulley. You can find picture he
http://www.kodakgallery.com/Slidesho...e&conn_speed=1


Ouch! I'm not surprised that it has difficulty staying in
place.


The pulley is hold in place by only one bearing. No wonder it moves around considering
that pulley is made of soft aluminum. Wilton sucks!

Is there any solution to this?


Several possible ones. It looks as though the pulley is bored
to three diameters. The largest of the three is to match the bearing.

So -- the first question is whether you can get away with boring
it deeper on a lathe. Ideally, deep enough to hold two identical
bearings. (The pulley grooves may be too small to allow this.) If you
do this, you will have to turn a new shaft for the bearings to run on.
It looks awkward to hold that arm, so you may have to make a new one for
the task.

A second option, which also requires a lathe, is to thread the
bore partway, and make a ring to thread into it to secure the outer race
of the bearing. (Check the length of the bore and the width of the
bearing's outer race to see whether this will work.

A third option would be to make a plate to go over the bearing,
with a hole for the end of the shaft to pass through, and screw it to
the flat surrounding the bearing bore. If the bearing is not as wide as
the length of the bore, you'll either need to make a projecting ridge
when you make the plate on a lathe, or make a ring to go between the
bearing and the plate.

A forth option would be to get some Loctite bearing mount
compound (I forget what the number is for that -- but go to a bearing
place and they will have it, as well as many Loctite threadlocker
compounds.

However, remembering that you apparently got the drill press
*new* -- you should complain loudly to the people you bought it from,
and see if they will supply you with one in better shape. *Maybe* they
have had enough trouble from this design so they have gone back to the
two-bearing design which the parts list suggests was at one time the
standard.

The web site which is hosting your image makes it impossible to
save a copy of the image so I can enlarge it and check for fine detail.
And no -- don't bother e-mailing me a copy -- it won't get through the
file size limitation on my email which keeps me from getting flooded
with each new virus that comes out -- not that they would harm my unix
systems, but 200+ copies (which I used to get when a new one came out)
are a serious waste of time and space.

Why didn't you use the dropbox (http://www.metalworking.com) for
saving the image so people could download it. The site which you used
appears to be designed for commerce. You even have a price on it. :-)

Good Luck,
DoN.

DoN. Nichols wrote:
In article ,
Alex wrote:

I've spend about an hour trying to true it by tap.
The pulley response very good to tapping. One light tap and it moves a lot.
The problem that it moves along the shaft too. So when I have it trued it's always
little higher or little lower compared to other pulleys. Also even I were able to make
it true I am sure it won't stay that way for too long.

I disassembled pulley. You can find picture he
http://www.kodakgallery.com/Slidesho...e&conn_speed=1


Ouch! I'm not surprised that it has difficulty staying in
place.


The pulley is hold in place by only one bearing. No wonder it moves around considering
that pulley is made of soft aluminum. Wilton sucks!

Is there any solution to this?

Looking at your pictures, I'm not sure that having a single loose
bearing is your only problem. I can't tell for sure because you don't
have a head-on picture of the pulley bore, but it looks like the largest
diameter bore (for the bearing) isn't coaxial with the smaller bores. If
so, two bearings will only fix the problem if you can bore the pulley
axially too.

Best wishes,

Chris

Alex wrote:
Thanks for suggestion.
I just posted some pictures of the pulley he
http://www.metalworking.com/dropbox/pulley1.jpg
http://www.metalworking.com/dropbox/pulley2.jpg
http://www.metalworking.com/dropbox/pulley3.jpg
http://www.metalworking.com/dropbox/pulley4.jpg

By the way, why don't Wilton do what other drill press manufacturers do
and mount the motor on a hinged bracket? That way you don't need the
idler pulley, bearing or arm?

Chris

Alex wrote:
Thanks for suggestion.
I just posted some pictures of the pulley he
http://www.metalworking.com/dropbox/pulley1.jpg
http://www.metalworking.com/dropbox/pulley2.jpg
http://www.metalworking.com/dropbox/pulley3.jpg
http://www.metalworking.com/dropbox/pulley4.jpg

By the way, why don't Wilton do what other drill press manufacturers do
and mount the motor on a hinged bracket? That way you don't need the
idler pulley, bearing or arm.

Chris

In article ,
Alex wrote:
wws wrote:
Alex wrote:

Thanks for suggestion.
I just posted some pictures of the pulley he
http://www.metalworking.com/dropbox/pulley1.jpg
http://www.metalworking.com/dropbox/pulley2.jpg
http://www.metalworking.com/dropbox/pulley3.jpg
http://www.metalworking.com/dropbox/pulley4.jpg

I asked you about this

The bearing "register" appears to be about .030 in.
It will have some freeplay no matter.

You suggest that if I just replace the bearing it should help?
I just posted better pictures of bearing:
http://metalworking.com/DropBox/pulley_bb.jpg

Looking at the new images, first off:

1) It appears that the pulley has been shifting on the bearing's
outer race for some time, and has thus enlarged the bore and
loosened the fit.

2) Lacking any measurements, it *looks* as though the depth of the
bore is pretty close to the width of the bearing, which suggests
that the plate which I suggested to be mounted in the larger
bore of the pulley to hold the bearing firmly seated may help
somewhat -- but the bore needs to be modified to make it a
better fit. For that, either Loctite bearing mount, or possibly
internal knurling might buy you some improvement.

3) The bearing appears to be in better shape than the bore of the
pulley, so I think that replacing the bearing won't help --
though my suggestion of making the bore longer, and adding a
second bearing would give a lot better stability -- *if* there
is enough meat in the pulley to accept the deeper bore.

4) As I have already suggested, and as others have suggested, you
*should* start by talking to the maker (or the store you bought
it from) -- *if* you bought it new.

Ideally -- the pulley needs to be replaced with one holding
*two* bearings, and a replacement arm supplied as well, with a
longer shaft the right diameter for two bearings.

Good Luck,
DoN.
--
Email: | Voice (all times): (703) 938-4564
(too) near Washington D.C. | http://www.d-and-d.com/dnichols/DoN.html
--- Black Holes are where God is dividing by zero ---

In article ,
Christopher Tidy wrote:
Alex wrote:
Thanks for suggestion.
I just posted some pictures of the pulley he
http://www.metalworking.com/dropbox/pulley1.jpg
http://www.metalworking.com/dropbox/pulley2.jpg
http://www.metalworking.com/dropbox/pulley3.jpg
http://www.metalworking.com/dropbox/pulley4.jpg

By the way, why don't Wilton do what other drill press manufacturers do
and mount the motor on a hinged bracket? That way you don't need the
idler pulley, bearing or arm?

You need the idler pulley bearing and arm to accommodate the
range of speeds which this offers -- with two belts. The idler pulley
goes between the motor (with its pulley) and the spindle (with its), and
moving the motor to tighten the belts first tightens the belt from motor
to idler, then moves the idler to tighten the belt from idler to
spindle.

Mine (of similar design -- though it may have two bearings in
the pulley, since it has lasted for nearly thirty years now), give 16
speeds, IIRC -- from almost slow enough to drill steel with the largest
drill bit which fits in the chuck which came with the machine (5/8"
IIRC), up to fast enough to be scary.

As for why they didn't use a hinged motor mount -- It is simply
because they did not *design* it. They are simply importing a design
from Taiwan (best case) or China which is very little different from
imported drill presses selling for half as much.

Enjoy,
DoN.

--
Email: | Voice (all times): (703) 938-4564
(too) near Washington D.C. | http://www.d-and-d.com/dnichols/DoN.html
--- Black Holes are where God is dividing by zero ---

In article ,
Alex wrote:
Here is the bottom part of pulley pictu
http://metalworking.com/DropBox/pulley_bottom.jpg

I am afraid there is not enough space to bore it to put two bearings.

Can you take *measurements* of the pulley -- the diameter of the
bottom of each of the grooves, and the diameter of the bearing? (A
dial, vernier, or digital caliper should be sufficient for this). Also
we need the distance from the big end to the center line of each groove,
and the distance from the big end to the top and bottom of the bore in
which the bearing resides. Just supplying us with images is not enough
data.

Do you think a bearing of the same width but bigger in diameter will help?

That would let you bore the pulley just a bit undersized, and
*press* the bearing in (applying the pressure to the outer race, not the
inner one), which would give you a little more life.

But I would go for the Loctite bearing mount compound, or the
retaining plate which I described already, or a combination of the two.

But -- yet again -- I would *first* talk to the manufacturer,
and explain the problem, and see what they could do to make it right.
You paid a premium price for this -- they should at least make it right.
How long have you owned this, anyway? I got the impression that you had
not owned it for very long.

A proper fix from them would at least consist of a new pulley
with *two* bearings, and a matching crank assembly.

Good Luck,
DoN.

--
Email: | Voice (all times): (703) 938-4564
(too) near Washington D.C. | http://www.d-and-d.com/dnichols/DoN.html
--- Black Holes are where God is dividing by zero ---

I posted some renderings he
http://metalworking.com/DropBox/pulley5.jpg
http://metalworking.com/DropBox/pulley6.jpg

It doesn't have measurements but it's better than photos.

BTW Can anyone do the machining for me in exchange of Solidworks drawings, 3-D modeling
or animation? I live in San Francisco.

Thanks



DoN. Nichols wrote:
In article ,
Alex wrote:

Here is the bottom part of pulley pictu
http://metalworking.com/DropBox/pulley_bottom.jpg

I am afraid there is not enough space to bore it to put two bearings.


Can you take *measurements* of the pulley -- the diameter of the
bottom of each of the grooves, and the diameter of the bearing? (A
dial, vernier, or digital caliper should be sufficient for this). Also
we need the distance from the big end to the center line of each groove,
and the distance from the big end to the top and bottom of the bore in
which the bearing resides. Just supplying us with images is not enough
data.


Do you think a bearing of the same width but bigger in diameter will help?


That would let you bore the pulley just a bit undersized, and
*press* the bearing in (applying the pressure to the outer race, not the
inner one), which would give you a little more life.

But I would go for the Loctite bearing mount compound, or the
retaining plate which I described already, or a combination of the two.

But -- yet again -- I would *first* talk to the manufacturer,
and explain the problem, and see what they could do to make it right.
You paid a premium price for this -- they should at least make it right.
How long have you owned this, anyway? I got the impression that you had
not owned it for very long.

A proper fix from them would at least consist of a new pulley
with *two* bearings, and a matching crank assembly.

Good Luck,
DoN.

Manufacturer refused to replace the pulley since it's been more than a year since
original purchasing.
Thanks for suggestion anyway.


DoN. Nichols wrote:
In article ,
Alex wrote:

Here is the bottom part of pulley pictu
http://metalworking.com/DropBox/pulley_bottom.jpg

I am afraid there is not enough space to bore it to put two bearings.


Can you take *measurements* of the pulley -- the diameter of the
bottom of each of the grooves, and the diameter of the bearing? (A
dial, vernier, or digital caliper should be sufficient for this). Also
we need the distance from the big end to the center line of each groove,
and the distance from the big end to the top and bottom of the bore in
which the bearing resides. Just supplying us with images is not enough
data.


Do you think a bearing of the same width but bigger in diameter will help?


That would let you bore the pulley just a bit undersized, and
*press* the bearing in (applying the pressure to the outer race, not the
inner one), which would give you a little more life.

But I would go for the Loctite bearing mount compound, or the
retaining plate which I described already, or a combination of the two.

But -- yet again -- I would *first* talk to the manufacturer,
and explain the problem, and see what they could do to make it right.
You paid a premium price for this -- they should at least make it right.
How long have you owned this, anyway? I got the impression that you had
not owned it for very long.

A proper fix from them would at least consist of a new pulley
with *two* bearings, and a matching crank assembly.

Good Luck,
DoN.

This whole post had gone on way too long. Go to the WMH web site and
look at the PDF for this drill press. It sounds just exactly like a Jet
I just disassembled completely, made a machining repair and
reassembled. It is all so obvious that no manual is really needed, The
only place I was even cautious was in the wiring as there was a small
harness to get though the switch to the motor and the light. I
guarantee that there is supposed to be two bearings in the idler
pulley. Someone may have screwed up and left one out or machined the
pulley wrong but there are supposed to be two bearings. This pulley
won't cost more then $20.00 from WMH so reworking it is silly. The
whole head casting, fully machined, only retails for $55.00. Depite
anyone's opinion this is Chinese drill press and of no great quality.
If you want another, with no problems you can have the one I just
repaired for $250. in SoCal. Leigh

Alex wrote:
Manufacturer refused to replace the pulley since it's been more than a
year since original purchasing.
Thanks for suggestion anyway.

So how much did they want for a new one? - GWE

Grant Erwin wrote:
Alex wrote:

Manufacturer refused to replace the pulley since it's been more than a
year since original purchasing.
Thanks for suggestion anyway.


So how much did they want for a new one? - GWE

It's $507.86 on sale:
http://www.southern-tool.com/store/t...llpresses.html

Model WMH2530

Alex wrote:

Grant Erwin wrote:

Alex wrote:

Manufacturer refused to replace the pulley since it's been more than
a year since original purchasing.
Thanks for suggestion anyway.



So how much did they want for a new one? - GWE


It's $507.86 on sale:
http://www.southern-tool.com/store/t...llpresses.html

Model WMH2530

Um, I meant a new *pulley*. - GWE

On Thu, 26 May 2005 20:54:22 -0700, Grant Erwin
wrote:

Alex wrote:

Grant Erwin wrote:

Alex wrote:

Manufacturer refused to replace the pulley since it's been more than
a year since original purchasing.
Thanks for suggestion anyway.



So how much did they want for a new one? - GWE


It's $507.86 on sale:
http://www.southern-tool.com/store/t...llpresses.html

Model WMH2530

Um, I meant a new *pulley*. - GWE

Sheesh....lol

Regards

Daveb

DaveB wrote:
On Thu, 26 May 2005 20:54:22 -0700, Grant Erwin
wrote:


Alex wrote:


Grant Erwin wrote:


Alex wrote:


Manufacturer refused to replace the pulley since it's been more than
a year since original purchasing.
Thanks for suggestion anyway.



So how much did they want for a new one? - GWE


It's $507.86 on sale:
http://www.southern-tool.com/store/t...llpresses.html

Model WMH2530

Um, I meant a new *pulley*. - GWE


Sheesh....lol

Regards

Daveb
Not cheap at all!
Pulley - $23, arm $19, 2 bearings $45 Plus handling and delivery $22