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Metalworking (rec.crafts.metalworking) Discuss various aspects of working with metal, such as machining, welding, metal joining, screwing, casting, hardening/tempering, blacksmithing/forging, spinning and hammer work, sheet metal work. |
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#1
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I'm going to pick up a Tree Journeyman Mill and haul it about 300
miles, from Lancaster to Orange County, CA. The mill is about 3,500 pounds, which puts the mill alone 500 pounds over the limit I can haul with my car. So, what I'm planning on doing is renting a big SUV or a van from Avis/Budget/etc... rent-a-car and hauling on either a lowboy utility trailer or a car trailer with a wooden floor. (Another option is to rent a moving truck with alift gate, but I don't think the gates normally lift 3,500 pounds.) I'll make sure the mill is solidly in place at it's feet by screwing some 2x4's to the wooden trialer deck as cleats. The knee will be down as low as I can get it, and I'll have eight or ten lengths of good quality rope tied to the top of the mill and the trailer to make sure it doesn't tip over. I should have no problem loading the mill onto a trailer with a forklift, however, I won't have a forklift at my house to unload it. The mill will be bolted to some 4x4 skids so I can haul it down the trailer into my garage. There's a post set into concrete that I can use with a come-along to haul it off the trailer. I've moved some heavy lathes (~1 ton) and a Hardinge Mill, so I have some idea of the dangers of what I'm getting into. I'm just a little nervous about unloading the mill. Maybe I should rent a fork lift for the day... Please let me know if you have any suggestions! |
#2
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![]() wrote in message oups.com... I'm going to pick up a Tree Journeyman Mill and haul it about 300 miles, from Lancaster to Orange County, CA. The mill is about 3,500 pounds, which puts the mill alone 500 pounds over the limit I can haul with my car. So, what I'm planning on doing is renting a big SUV or a van from Avis/Budget/etc... rent-a-car and hauling on either a lowboy utility trailer or a car trailer with a wooden floor. (Another option is to rent a moving truck with alift gate, but I don't think the gates normally lift 3,500 pounds.) I'll make sure the mill is solidly in place at it's feet by screwing some 2x4's to the wooden trialer deck as cleats. The knee will be down as low as I can get it, and I'll have eight or ten lengths of good quality rope tied to the top of the mill and the trailer to make sure it doesn't tip over. I should have no problem loading the mill onto a trailer with a forklift, however, I won't have a forklift at my house to unload it. The mill will be bolted to some 4x4 skids so I can haul it down the trailer into my garage. There's a post set into concrete that I can use with a come-along to haul it off the trailer. I've moved some heavy lathes (~1 ton) and a Hardinge Mill, so I have some idea of the dangers of what I'm getting into. I'm just a little nervous about unloading the mill. Maybe I should rent a fork lift for the day... Please let me know if you have any suggestions! I wish you the very best and feel confident that all will go well, but...DO YOU HAVE A VIDEO CAMERA? That way, the worst case scenario may bring you a compensatory income. |
#3
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Well, yeas, I have a video camera... How would a video camera bring me
a compensatory income if I get crushed to death? Or do you mean if the mill breaks loose on the freeway and kills a bunch of other people? Or do you mean that it's a bad idea and doesn't pass a sanity check? |
#4
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WOW, even my sick brain didn't even conceive those nasty thoughts. Your
move seems perfectly orchestrated and you have the main ingredient for success---UNBRIDLED FEAR! I was just poking a little comic relief into a tense situation. Best wishes! wrote in message ups.com... Well, yeas, I have a video camera... How would a video camera bring me a compensatory income if I get crushed to death? Or do you mean if the mill breaks loose on the freeway and kills a bunch of other people? Or do you mean that it's a bad idea and doesn't pass a sanity check? |
#5
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I think that it's one of the problems with email, the tone didn't
really come through for me. I didn't mean to imply you were thinking something like that, I just didn't know what you really meant. I'm nervous about moving this thing. If I can find a big enough truck I'll haul it on a trailer, but I'm really having a hard time finding something I can rent to haul it with. |
#6
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#7
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I would swap the ropes for some 3" or 4" ratchet straps.
Steve wrote in message oups.com... I'm going to pick up a Tree Journeyman Mill and haul it about 300 miles, from Lancaster to Orange County, CA. The mill is about 3,500 pounds, which puts the mill alone 500 pounds over the limit I can haul with my car. So, what I'm planning on doing is renting a big SUV or a van from Avis/Budget/etc... rent-a-car and hauling on either a lowboy utility trailer or a car trailer with a wooden floor. (Another option is to rent a moving truck with alift gate, but I don't think the gates normally lift 3,500 pounds.) I'll make sure the mill is solidly in place at it's feet by screwing some 2x4's to the wooden trialer deck as cleats. The knee will be down as low as I can get it, and I'll have eight or ten lengths of good quality rope tied to the top of the mill and the trailer to make sure it doesn't tip over. I should have no problem loading the mill onto a trailer with a forklift, however, I won't have a forklift at my house to unload it. The mill will be bolted to some 4x4 skids so I can haul it down the trailer into my garage. There's a post set into concrete that I can use with a come-along to haul it off the trailer. I've moved some heavy lathes (~1 ton) and a Hardinge Mill, so I have some idea of the dangers of what I'm getting into. I'm just a little nervous about unloading the mill. Maybe I should rent a fork lift for the day... Please let me know if you have any suggestions! |
#8
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Thanks, that's a good idea. I'll pick some up. I have some 1" or 2"
straps, but it's better to be safe then sorry. |
#9
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On Tue, 12 Apr 2005 13:51:01 -0500, "Steve Peterson" 123@nospam
wrote: I would swap the ropes for some 3" or 4" ratchet straps. Steve $12 at Home Depot for the good ones. And Jeff? Rent the forklift, or findout if your local towing company will unload it with their boom wrecker. Gunner wrote in message roups.com... I'm going to pick up a Tree Journeyman Mill and haul it about 300 miles, from Lancaster to Orange County, CA. The mill is about 3,500 pounds, which puts the mill alone 500 pounds over the limit I can haul with my car. So, what I'm planning on doing is renting a big SUV or a van from Avis/Budget/etc... rent-a-car and hauling on either a lowboy utility trailer or a car trailer with a wooden floor. (Another option is to rent a moving truck with alift gate, but I don't think the gates normally lift 3,500 pounds.) I'll make sure the mill is solidly in place at it's feet by screwing some 2x4's to the wooden trialer deck as cleats. The knee will be down as low as I can get it, and I'll have eight or ten lengths of good quality rope tied to the top of the mill and the trailer to make sure it doesn't tip over. I should have no problem loading the mill onto a trailer with a forklift, however, I won't have a forklift at my house to unload it. The mill will be bolted to some 4x4 skids so I can haul it down the trailer into my garage. There's a post set into concrete that I can use with a come-along to haul it off the trailer. I've moved some heavy lathes (~1 ton) and a Hardinge Mill, so I have some idea of the dangers of what I'm getting into. I'm just a little nervous about unloading the mill. Maybe I should rent a fork lift for the day... Please let me know if you have any suggestions! Rule #35 "That which does not kill you, has made a huge tactical error" |
#11
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#12
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The thing with a moving truck that troubles me is this: how do I fasten
the mill down inside the truck? |
#13
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On 12 Apr 2005 16:05:09 -0700, the inscrutable
spake: The thing with a moving truck that troubles me is this: how do I fasten the mill down inside the truck? Many moving trucks have side cleats for fastening tiedowns. Ask the renter if you can also lag it down if it has a boltdown base. Put it forward in the truck as far as possible and centered. Then it won't break or become a projectile if it breaks loose if you hit something or if you have to stop really fast. (Those are 3 nasty IFs.) Quick, order fellow rec.metalhead Ron Thompson's CD about Rigging. It'll tell you all you need to know. ![]() http://www.plansandprojects.com/ CD #4 ---------------------------------- VIRTUE...is its own punishment http://www.diversify.com Website Applications ================================================== |
#14
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![]() "Larry Jaques" wrote in message ... On 12 Apr 2005 16:05:09 -0700, the inscrutable spake: The thing with a moving truck that troubles me is this: how do I fasten the mill down inside the truck? Many moving trucks have side cleats for fastening tiedowns. Ask the renter if you can also lag it down if it has a boltdown base. Put it forward in the truck as far as possible and centered. Then it won't break or become a projectile if it breaks loose if you hit something or if you have to stop really fast. (Those are 3 nasty IFs.) I have never seen anything in a box truck substantial enough for securing a 3,500 pound machine. Anything attached to the sides would not be sufficient. I'm thinking about putting some kind of anchors in the floor of my box truck, but for the most part I've found a trailer to be a more practical way to move machinery. Quick, order fellow rec.metalhead Ron Thompson's CD about Rigging. It'll tell you all you need to know. ![]() http://www.plansandprojects.com/ CD #4 ---------------------------------- VIRTUE...is its own punishment http://www.diversify.com Website Applications ================================================== |
#15
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On Tue, 12 Apr 2005 21:10:39 -0400, the inscrutable "ATP*"
spake: "Larry Jaques" wrote in message .. . On 12 Apr 2005 16:05:09 -0700, the inscrutable spake: The thing with a moving truck that troubles me is this: how do I fasten the mill down inside the truck? Many moving trucks have side cleats for fastening tiedowns. Ask the renter if you can also lag it down if it has a boltdown base. Put it forward in the truck as far as possible and centered. Then it won't break or become a projectile if it breaks loose if you hit something or if you have to stop really fast. (Those are 3 nasty IFs.) I have never seen anything in a box truck substantial enough for securing a 3,500 pound machine. Anything attached to the sides would not be sufficient. Maybe it's only the large moving van trailers which have the sturdy tiedown posts. I haven't rented a bobtail in a long time, 30 years now. I drove my Olds into one in Phoenix to pull back to CA. It was a good thing, too. The steering coupler broke on the ramp into the truck. I kicked the wheels straight, prayed, and got it in. 'Twas fun installing the coupler while still in the truck when I got home, too. Ah, to be young again... I'm thinking about putting some kind of anchors in the floor of my box truck, but for the most part I've found a trailer to be a more practical way to move machinery. Yeah, the lowboy types would be perfect for that. I helped move dozens of pieces of heavy medical equipment in LoCal on those things. Baird Gamma Cameras, bone densitometers, etc. Nothing fun like a mill or lathe. ![]() ---------------------------------- VIRTUE...is its own punishment http://www.diversify.com Website Applications ================================================== |
#17
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![]() wrote in message oups.com... I'm going to pick up a Tree Journeyman Mill and haul it about 300 miles, from Lancaster to Orange County, CA. The mill is about 3,500 pounds, which puts the mill alone 500 pounds over the limit I can haul with my car. So, what I'm planning on doing is renting a big SUV or a van from Avis/Budget/etc... rent-a-car and hauling on either a lowboy utility trailer or a car trailer with a wooden floor. (Another option is to rent a moving truck with alift gate, but I don't think the gates normally lift 3,500 pounds.) I'll make sure the mill is solidly in place at it's feet by screwing some 2x4's to the wooden trialer deck as cleats. The knee will be down as low as I can get it, and I'll have eight or ten lengths of good quality rope tied to the top of the mill and the trailer to make sure it doesn't tip over. I should have no problem loading the mill onto a trailer with a forklift, however, I won't have a forklift at my house to unload it. The mill will be bolted to some 4x4 skids so I can haul it down the trailer into my garage. There's a post set into concrete that I can use with a come-along to haul it off the trailer. I've moved some heavy lathes (~1 ton) and a Hardinge Mill, so I have some idea of the dangers of what I'm getting into. I'm just a little nervous about unloading the mill. Maybe I should rent a fork lift for the day... Please let me know if you have any suggestions! You should be using properly tensioned chains fore and aft, secured to substantial eyes on the trailer. It should be secured as well as a vehicle or heavy equipment would be. You should get some advice from a local truck/trailer place that sells DOT approved chain and hardware. Make sure the rigging passes muster so you can avoid accidents or trouble with the policia. |
#18
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#19
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Thanks for the reply. I have some injuries from a motorcycle accident,
and I agree that it's important to be safe. It's not worth it to hurt myself for *any* peice of equipment. And I understand that this mill would easily kill me if it fell on me. It would be a big enough problem if it just tipped over... I don't think I can find a big pick-up truck to haul this thing on a trailer, so it looks like I'll need to find something else, and use a fork lift to unload it. I'll look into a flat bed. Thanks for the advice. |
#21
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Eric R Snow wrote:
On 12 Apr 2005 11:05:45 -0700, wrote: I'm going to pick up a Tree Journeyman Mill and haul it about 300 miles, from Lancaster to Orange County, CA. The mill is about 3,500 pounds, which puts the mill alone 500 pounds over the limit I can haul with my car. So, what I'm planning on doing is renting a big SUV or a van from Avis/Budget/etc... rent-a-car and hauling on either a lowboy utility trailer or a car trailer with a wooden floor. (Another option is to rent a moving truck with alift gate, but I don't think the gates normally lift 3,500 pounds.) I'll make sure the mill is solidly in place at it's feet by screwing some 2x4's to the wooden trialer deck as cleats. The knee will be down as low as I can get it, and I'll have eight or ten lengths of good quality rope tied to the top of the mill and the trailer to make sure it doesn't tip over. I should have no problem loading the mill onto a trailer with a forklift, however, I won't have a forklift at my house to unload it. The mill will be bolted to some 4x4 skids so I can haul it down the trailer into my garage. There's a post set into concrete that I can use with a come-along to haul it off the trailer. I've moved some heavy lathes (~1 ton) and a Hardinge Mill, so I have some idea of the dangers of what I'm getting into. I'm just a little nervous about unloading the mill. Maybe I should rent a fork lift for the day... Please let me know if you have any suggestions! Save yourself some powerful grief. I rented a diesel flatbed that had a bed about 4 feet in the air. I think it was an Isuzu. Anyway, the lathe I was moving weighed about 5000 lbs. I told the rental place what I was planning on moving and they said "no problem". After loading with a forklift and securing the lathe properly with chains and binders I took it out on an empty road and did a few panic stops and swervs. I could hardly tell the thing was there. So I drove home with it and never had to worry about rolling or spilling my load. And having a truck with the proper capacity made a huge difference. Once back at the shop I used another fork lift to unload it. Can you have a fork lift delivered to your place? It can make life so much easier. When I removed the lathe I just lifted it clear of the truck and my son drove the truck away. This way there was no fork lift travel with a load high in the air. After lowering gently I placed the lathe in the shop. And there was NEVER any time when someone was near enough to the load to be hurt if I lost the load. Remember that those straps have a HUGE capacity to absorb and release energy. My son and I moved a punch press a couple of months ago. Those things are really top heavy so I strapped the press to the vertical rails of the fork truck. He drove the fork truck outside and was just starting to lift it to put it on the truck. I told him to hold up a sec while I took the strap off. He'd already lifted the press an inch or so. Of course the vertical rail doesn't raise so the strap was quite tight. I flipped the ratchet open all the way and it let go. Man did it let go! Gouged my thumb. Blood splattered all over the place. So yea Eric, they can store a surprising amount of energy. If one breaks it can whip someone really hard and cause bad injuries. Be sure the straps are protected from abrason and that if one breaks everyone is out of the way of anywhere it might land. If it costs you 200 bucks extra for the lift at home maybe it's just good insurance. Sorry about the kinda rant. I live with constant pain from crushing injuries (not related to moving machines though) and it aint worth it. I know how you feel about wanting to do it all yourself, I still try to do some thing I shouldn't. But if a 3000 lb machine gets away and you are in it's way you won't even slow it up. More likely you'll just grease the skids so to speak and it'll slide further on your blood. ERS |
#22
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By the time you rent a truck, buy tie downs, pay mileage, rent a forklift,
and spend the time, could you pay someone to deliver it? I'm just wondering... Is it that expensive? I paid a rigger to deliver my mill and it cost about the same as I would have spent had I rented the stuff needed to do it myself. Of course, my mill was only 30 miles away so obviously YMMV. Peter wrote in message oups.com... I'm going to pick up a Tree Journeyman Mill and haul it about 300 miles, from Lancaster to Orange County, CA. The mill is about 3,500 pounds, which puts the mill alone 500 pounds over the limit I can haul with my car. So, what I'm planning on doing is renting a big SUV or a van from Avis/Budget/etc... rent-a-car and hauling on either a lowboy utility trailer or a car trailer with a wooden floor. (Another option is to rent a moving truck with alift gate, but I don't think the gates normally lift 3,500 pounds.) I'll make sure the mill is solidly in place at it's feet by screwing some 2x4's to the wooden trialer deck as cleats. The knee will be down as low as I can get it, and I'll have eight or ten lengths of good quality rope tied to the top of the mill and the trailer to make sure it doesn't tip over. I should have no problem loading the mill onto a trailer with a forklift, however, I won't have a forklift at my house to unload it. The mill will be bolted to some 4x4 skids so I can haul it down the trailer into my garage. There's a post set into concrete that I can use with a come-along to haul it off the trailer. I've moved some heavy lathes (~1 ton) and a Hardinge Mill, so I have some idea of the dangers of what I'm getting into. I'm just a little nervous about unloading the mill. Maybe I should rent a fork lift for the day... Please let me know if you have any suggestions! |
#23
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would you not be cheaper and more secure to have it shipped??
surely there is a cartage company that can handle it? Train maybe? Doug wrote in message oups.com... I'm going to pick up a Tree Journeyman Mill and haul it about 300 miles, from Lancaster to Orange County, CA. The mill is about 3,500 pounds, which puts the mill alone 500 pounds over the limit I can haul with my car. So, what I'm planning on doing is renting a big SUV or a van from Avis/Budget/etc... rent-a-car and hauling on either a lowboy utility trailer or a car trailer with a wooden floor. (Another option is to rent a moving truck with alift gate, but I don't think the gates normally lift 3,500 pounds.) I'll make sure the mill is solidly in place at it's feet by screwing some 2x4's to the wooden trialer deck as cleats. The knee will be down as low as I can get it, and I'll have eight or ten lengths of good quality rope tied to the top of the mill and the trailer to make sure it doesn't tip over. I should have no problem loading the mill onto a trailer with a forklift, however, I won't have a forklift at my house to unload it. The mill will be bolted to some 4x4 skids so I can haul it down the trailer into my garage. There's a post set into concrete that I can use with a come-along to haul it off the trailer. I've moved some heavy lathes (~1 ton) and a Hardinge Mill, so I have some idea of the dangers of what I'm getting into. I'm just a little nervous about unloading the mill. Maybe I should rent a fork lift for the day... Please let me know if you have any suggestions! |
#24
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#25
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Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
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replying to Koz, Ggg wrote:
The thread count for my 325 Journeyman is 10tpi. I can thread a 3/4-10 bolt 1.5" in but it is loose like the diameter is too small. Coincidentally a 13/16 dia. Coarse thread is also 10 tpi. Does anybody know for sure what size the lifting holes on top of the head are? I'm having a very hard time finding any kind of 13/16-10 bolts. -- for full context, visit http://www.polytechforum.com/metalwo...ck-409663-.htm |
#26
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Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
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On Thu, 04 May 2017 00:18:02 GMT, Ggg
wrote: replying to Koz, Ggg wrote: The thread count for my 325 Journeyman is 10tpi. I can thread a 3/4-10 bolt 1.5" in but it is loose like the diameter is too small. Coincidentally a 13/16 dia. Coarse thread is also 10 tpi. Does anybody know for sure what size the lifting holes on top of the head are? I'm having a very hard time finding any kind of 13/16-10 bolts. Maybe the thread is metric. 20mm x 2.5 pitch. Eric |
#27
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Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
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replying to etpm, Ggg wrote:
Eric you are correct, thank you. -- for full context, visit http://www.polytechforum.com/metalwo...ck-409663-.htm |
#28
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Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
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replying to Ggg, Ggg wrote:
The thread turned out to be metric, M20-2.50. I mistakenly ordered a 30mm long thread which looked awfully short once I saw them, but they held when the machine was lifted. I would order a 50mm long for a piece of mind if I were to do it again. -- for full context, visit http://www.polytechforum.com/metalwo...ck-409663-.htm |
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