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#1
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Special length brass nipple
In spite of all my calculations the Kohler nipple for the hand held
shower elbow does not stick out far enough. Kohler specifies 9/16", and it wound up to be 3/8". The current nipple is 3", and the next size is 3 1/2" which is way too long. I think the reason is the cultured marble guy was a a bit too generous with the mastic goop, as I did very careful measurements and shimmed it perfectly for the maximum thickness the marble plus mastic was supposed to be. Be that as it may, the question now is what to do about it. Here are the options I know of so far: 1. The flanged elbow is mounted to a 1"x4" cross piece with screws that I can get to through the hole in the marble. I could break through the wall from the other side to allow sliding a thicker shim behind the elbow. Other than the work of breaking and repairing plaster, the only downside is that the nipple would assume a slight downward tilt. 2. Make up a nipple with two male adapters and a short length of 1/2" hard copper tubing. I've watched the plumbers do the soldering, but never done it myself. Looks easy. Downside is possibly breaking the solder joint while tightening. I've no idea how strong these soldered joints are in twisting. Which options is best? Anything I've missed? TIA Ed |
#2
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"Jag Man" wrote in message Which options is best? Anything I've missed? You go down to the maintenance department at work and tell the guys you need a 3 1/4" (or whatever) nipple in brass. For the price of a coffee or two they can make whatever you need. Go to the plumbing department of the hardware store and buy a coupling and two smaller nipples to get the combination you need.. |
#3
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"Edwin Pawlowski" wrote in message news:k7_%d.17057$qN3.2421@trndny01... You go down to the maintenance department at work and tell the guys you need a 3 1/4" (or whatever) nipple in brass. For the price of a coffee or two they can make whatever you need. Go to the plumbing department of the hardware store and buy a coupling and two smaller nipples to get the combination you need.. Thanks, Edwin. Being a machine shop student in highschool and working my way through college in tool shops, I liked your first idea! The thought of throwing a 4" nipple in a lathe, parting off a bit, and "single-pointing" a NPT with a bit ground to the proper angle sounds like fun. Unfortunately, I don't have access to the equipment, and I imagine a machine shop would charge me $50, if I could even find one that would bother. Apparently, nipples this size are too short for using the normal thread cutters. Maybe I misunderstand your second suggestion, wouldn't it be impossible to get something as short ad 3 3/16" with normal 1/2" pipe fittings? Or, are you talking about the second idea I mentioned, i.e., use the short section of hard thin wall copper tubing and sweat a male adapter to NPT at each end? Ed |
#4
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Jag Man wrote:
"Edwin Pawlowski" wrote in message news:k7_%d.17057$qN3.2421@trndny01... You go down to the maintenance department at work and tell the guys you need a 3 1/4" (or whatever) nipple in brass. For the price of a coffee or two they can make whatever you need. Go to the plumbing department of the hardware store and buy a coupling and two smaller nipples to get the combination you need.. Thanks, Edwin. Being a machine shop student in highschool and working my way through college in tool shops, I liked your first idea! The thought of throwing a 4" nipple in a lathe, parting off a bit, and "single-pointing" a NPT with a bit ground to the proper angle sounds like fun. Unfortunately, I don't have access to the equipment, and I imagine a machine shop would charge me $50, if I could even find one that would bother. Apparently, nipples this size are too short for using the normal thread cutters. Maybe I misunderstand your second suggestion, wouldn't it be impossible to get something as short ad 3 3/16" with normal 1/2" pipe fittings? Or, are you talking about the second idea I mentioned, i.e., use the short section of hard thin wall copper tubing and sweat a male adapter to NPT at each end? Ed Why not cut it with a hacksaw, and rethread it (by hand) with a 1/2" pipe die? You will still have some of the original threads left to help start the die straight, and brass is easy to cut. It seems like you are looking for something difficult. Best regards, Bob |
#5
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Jag Man wrote:
In spite of all my calculations the Kohler nipple for the hand held shower elbow does not stick out far enough. Kohler specifies 9/16", and it wound up to be 3/8". The current nipple is 3", and the next size is 3 1/2" which is way too long. I think the reason is the cultured marble guy was a a bit too generous with the mastic goop, as I did very careful measurements and shimmed it perfectly for the maximum thickness the marble plus mastic was supposed to be. Be that as it may, the question now is what to do about it. Here are the options I know of so far: 1. The flanged elbow is mounted to a 1"x4" cross piece with screws that I can get to through the hole in the marble. I could break through the wall from the other side to allow sliding a thicker shim behind the elbow. Other than the work of breaking and repairing plaster, the only downside is that the nipple would assume a slight downward tilt. 2. Make up a nipple with two male adapters and a short length of 1/2" hard copper tubing. I've watched the plumbers do the soldering, but never done it myself. Looks easy. Downside is possibly breaking the solder joint while tightening. I've no idea how strong these soldered joints are in twisting. Which options is best? Anything I've missed? TIA Ed If you are in Red Sox Nation I'd be happy to loan you the use of my 1/2" NPT die and die stock so you could shorten a standard nipple and rethread it. You sound like a perfectionist and there's nothing wrong with that if feel good doing things "just right". Email me if I can help. Jeff -- Jeffry Wisnia (W1BSV + Brass Rat '57 EE) "As long as there are final exams, there will be prayer in public schools" |
#6
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Home Depot (and presumably most other places, though I haven't tried) will
cut and thread iron pipe for free. Presumably they would do the same for a brass nipple. Or is there something that is going clean over my head? |
#7
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"toller" wrote in message ... Home Depot (and presumably most other places, though I haven't tried) will cut and thread iron pipe for free. Presumably they would do the same for a brass nipple. Or is there something that is going clean over my head? Some pipe threaders will not allow a short length to be held in the jaws and threaded. There are ways of doing it, but I have no idea of HD will have the capability. No harm in asking though. |
#8
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Well, I have been known to find complex "solutions" for simple
problems. But in this case all I wanted to do was get that fancy elbow on there. Actually, I am guilty of believing them when both the local Ace HW store and a first rate plumbing supply house said they couldn't rethread anything that short. I now gather that this is simply because they would not stoop so low as to use a pipe die and do it manually. Guess I can temporarily attach it to a longer length with a coupling in order to hold it for the rethreading. Thanks for opening my mind! Ed "zxcvbob" wrote in message ... Why not cut it with a hacksaw, and rethread it (by hand) with a 1/2" pipe die? You will still have some of the original threads left to help start the die straight, and brass is easy to cut. It seems like you are looking for something difficult. Best regards, Bob |
#9
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Thanks, Jeff. Unfortunatly, I am in Angles territory, so can't very
well drop by and pick up the tools! But now that I'm on the right path, I'm sure I can borrow, rent, or buy what's needed. Ed If you are in Red Sox Nation I'd be happy to loan you the use of my 1/2" NPT die and die stock so you could shorten a standard nipple and rethread it. You sound like a perfectionist and there's nothing wrong with that if feel good doing things "just right". Email me if I can help. Jeff |
#10
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In article , "Edwin Pawlowski" wrote:
"toller" wrote in message ... Home Depot (and presumably most other places, though I haven't tried) will cut and thread iron pipe for free. Presumably they would do the same for a brass nipple. Or is there something that is going clean over my head? Some pipe threaders will not allow a short length to be held in the jaws and threaded. There are ways of doing it, but I have no idea of HD will have the capability. No harm in asking though. He could buy a longer piece (e.g. 12") and have it threaded for, say, 5 inches at one end, then cut off what he needs. -- Regards, Doug Miller (alphageek at milmac dot com) Nobody ever left footprints in the sands of time by sitting on his butt. And who wants to leave buttprints in the sands of time? |
#11
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Doug Miller wrote:
In article , "Edwin Pawlowski" wrote: "toller" wrote in message ... Home Depot (and presumably most other places, though I haven't tried) will cut and thread iron pipe for free. Presumably they would do the same for a brass nipple. Or is there something that is going clean over my head? Some pipe threaders will not allow a short length to be held in the jaws and threaded. There are ways of doing it, but I have no idea of HD will have the capability. No harm in asking though. He could buy a longer piece (e.g. 12") and have it threaded for, say, 5 inches at one end, then cut off what he needs. IIRC, he needs it threaded at both ends. Bob |
#12
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In article , zxcvbob wrote:
Doug Miller wrote: In article , "Edwin Pawlowski" wrote: "toller" wrote in message ... Home Depot (and presumably most other places, though I haven't tried) will cut and thread iron pipe for free. Presumably they would do the same for a brass nipple. Or is there something that is going clean over my head? Some pipe threaders will not allow a short length to be held in the jaws and threaded. There are ways of doing it, but I have no idea of HD will have the capability. No harm in asking though. He could buy a longer piece (e.g. 12") and have it threaded for, say, 5 inches at one end, then cut off what he needs. IIRC, he needs it threaded at both ends. And your point would be....? I believe he only needed about three inches, right? So thread *five* inches, and cut off the three-and-whatever that's needed. No harm done if it's threaded all the way, is there? -- Regards, Doug Miller (alphageek at milmac dot com) Nobody ever left footprints in the sands of time by sitting on his butt. And who wants to leave buttprints in the sands of time? |
#13
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Doug Miller wrote: In article , zxcvbob wrote: Doug Miller wrote: In article , "Edwin Pawlowski" wrote: "toller" wrote in message ... Home Depot (and presumably most other places, though I haven't tried) will cut and thread iron pipe for free. Presumably they would do the same for a brass nipple. Or is there something that is going clean over my head? Some pipe threaders will not allow a short length to be held in the jaws and threaded. There are ways of doing it, but I have no idea of HD will have the capability. No harm in asking though. He could buy a longer piece (e.g. 12") and have it threaded for, say, 5 inches at one end, then cut off what he needs. IIRC, he needs it threaded at both ends. And your point would be....? I believe he only needed about three inches, right? So thread *five* inches, and cut off the three-and-whatever that's needed. No harm done if it's threaded all the way, is there? -- Regards, Doug Miller (alphageek at milmac dot com) Nobody ever left footprints in the sands of time by sitting on his butt. And who wants to leave buttprints in the sands of time? Yes. If he needs it threaded at both ends the threads turn different directions...or does it?...hmm, damn, now I have to go looking in my junk pile for a pipe threaded both ends. Harry K |
#14
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Harry K wrote: Doug Miller wrote: In article , zxcvbob wrote: Doug Miller wrote: In article , "Edwin Pawlowski" wrote: "toller" wrote in message ... Home Depot (and presumably most other places, though I haven't tried) will cut and thread iron pipe for free. Presumably they would do the same for a brass nipple. Or is there something that is going clean over my head? Some pipe threaders will not allow a short length to be held in the jaws and threaded. There are ways of doing it, but I have no idea of HD will have the capability. No harm in asking though. He could buy a longer piece (e.g. 12") and have it threaded for, say, 5 inches at one end, then cut off what he needs. IIRC, he needs it threaded at both ends. And your point would be....? I believe he only needed about three inches, right? So thread *five* inches, and cut off the three-and-whatever that's needed. No harm done if it's threaded all the way, is there? -- Regards, Doug Miller (alphageek at milmac dot com) Nobody ever left footprints in the sands of time by sitting on his butt. And who wants to leave buttprints in the sands of time? Yes. If he needs it threaded at both ends the threads turn different directions...or does it?...hmm, damn, now I have to go looking in my junk pile for a pipe threaded both ends. Harry K In addition to that (if true) IPS threads are 'tapered' so you can't just thread a length and cut it off. It's too early and not enough plasma. Harry K |
#15
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Harry K wrote:
.... Yes. If he needs it threaded at both ends the threads turn different directions...or does it?...hmm, damn, now I have to go looking in my junk pile for a pipe threaded both ends. If that were true, you'd have one r-h and one l-h thread...somewhat inconvenient at best... The taper would be a possible problem though as it would be tougher to get a leak-tight connection. |
#16
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Doug Miller wrote:
In article , zxcvbob wrote: Doug Miller wrote: In article , "Edwin Pawlowski" wrote: "toller" wrote in message ... Home Depot (and presumably most other places, though I haven't tried) will cut and thread iron pipe for free. Presumably they would do the same for a brass nipple. Or is there something that is going clean over my head? Some pipe threaders will not allow a short length to be held in the jaws and threaded. There are ways of doing it, but I have no idea of HD will have the capability. No harm in asking though. He could buy a longer piece (e.g. 12") and have it threaded for, say, 5 inches at one end, then cut off what he needs. IIRC, he needs it threaded at both ends. And your point would be....? I believe he only needed about three inches, right? So thread *five* inches, and cut off the three-and-whatever that's needed. No harm done if it's threaded all the way, is there? Tapered threads. Bob |
#17
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I've asked around, although not at HD, but seems that the HW stores
and plumbing supply houses only offer threader machine service, and they won't work on short nipples. I intend to try to do it with a manual die and handle today, either rented or purchased. I'll just buy a 3 1/2" brass nipple, cut 1/4" off with a hacksaw, and spin the die down 1/4". I'll report back on progress. Ed "Edwin Pawlowski" wrote in message om... "toller" wrote in message ... Home Depot (and presumably most other places, though I haven't tried) will cut and thread iron pipe for free. Presumably they would do the same for a brass nipple. Or is there something that is going clean over my head? Some pipe threaders will not allow a short length to be held in the jaws and threaded. There are ways of doing it, but I have no idea of HD will have the capability. No harm in asking though. |
#18
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#19
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In article .com, "Harry K" wrote:
Doug Miller wrote: In article , zxcvbob wrote: Doug Miller wrote: In article , "Edwin Pawlowski" wrote: "toller" wrote in message ... Home Depot (and presumably most other places, though I haven't tried) will cut and thread iron pipe for free. Presumably they would do the same for a brass nipple. Or is there something that is going clean over my head? Some pipe threaders will not allow a short length to be held in the jaws and threaded. There are ways of doing it, but I have no idea of HD will have the capability. No harm in asking though. He could buy a longer piece (e.g. 12") and have it threaded for, say, 5 inches at one end, then cut off what he needs. IIRC, he needs it threaded at both ends. And your point would be....? I believe he only needed about three inches, right? So thread *five* inches, and cut off the three-and-whatever that's needed. No harm done if it's threaded all the way, is there? Yes. If he needs it threaded at both ends the threads turn different directions...or does it?...hmm, damn, now I have to go looking in my junk pile for a pipe threaded both ends. Try again. -- Regards, Doug Miller (alphageek at milmac dot com) Nobody ever left footprints in the sands of time by sitting on his butt. And who wants to leave buttprints in the sands of time? |
#20
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In article , zxcvbob wrote:
Doug Miller wrote: I believe he only needed about three inches, right? So thread *five* inches, and cut off the three-and-whatever that's needed. No harm done if it's threaded all the way, is there? Tapered threads. Won't matter. It's a shower nipple, so one end of it will always be open, and there won't ever be any significant pressure on the joint. -- Regards, Doug Miller (alphageek at milmac dot com) Nobody ever left footprints in the sands of time by sitting on his butt. And who wants to leave buttprints in the sands of time? |
#21
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Doug Miller wrote:
In article , zxcvbob wrote: Doug Miller wrote: I believe he only needed about three inches, right? So thread *five* inches, and cut off the three-and-whatever that's needed. No harm done if it's threaded all the way, is there? Tapered threads. Won't matter. It's a shower nipple, so one end of it will always be open, and there won't ever be any significant pressure on the joint. Depends on how restrictive the flow control in the shower head is. I know I wouldn't want it dripping behind my walls. Bob |
#22
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Well, I did it. The nipple has been cut to length, rethreaded, and
used to install the elbow on the shower wall. However, I won't say it was easy. The main problem is the hand-held dies have a guide collar that the pipe enters through before reaching the die proper. This means there is only a little over an inch sticking out to grip, and most of that is threaded. In order to get a good grip w/o damaging the threads I fitted a brass cap I happened to have. Initially I grabbed it in a vise, but I'm afraid my vise and workbench were no match for the force it takes to cut the threads as the length of engagement grows. Finally gripped it with a pipe wrench. Of course this tightens the cap far beyond normal, so getting it off after the threads were cut was tough too. Went through this several times before getting enough good threads for a good fit at the shower wall. Glad I'm not a plumber! thanks for all the help. Ed "Jag Man" wrote in message . .. I intend to try to do it with a manual die and handle today, either rented or purchased. I'll just buy a 3 1/2" brass nipple, cut 1/4" off with a hacksaw, and spin the die down 1/4". I'll report back on progress. Ed |
#23
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Won't matter. It's a shower nipple, so one end of it will always
be open, and there won't ever be any significant pressure on the joint. Depends on how restrictive the flow control in the shower head is. I know I wouldn't want it dripping behind my walls. Bob Right. There will always be some pressure drop across any kind of flow restriction, and a spray nozzle could be considerable, I would think, especially low flow showere heads. Also, people will often put a valved branch fitting on a shower gooseneck for a hand-held shower hose and wand. If later someone attaches a wand that itself has a shut-off valve, full line pressure can be on all the joints in there. I'm familiar with this problem from personal experience, including some ruined plaster. Ed |
#24
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That is called a nipple chuck. You are an the right track.
Stretch |
#25
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In article ,
Doug Miller wrote: In article , zxcvbob wrote: Doug Miller wrote: I believe he only needed about three inches, right? So thread *five* inches, and cut off the three-and-whatever that's needed. No harm done if it's threaded all the way, is there? Tapered threads. Won't matter. It's a shower nipple, so one end of it will always be open, and there won't ever be any significant pressure on the joint. -- Regards, Doug Miller (alphageek at milmac dot com) Nobody ever left footprints in the sands of time by sitting on his butt. And who wants to leave buttprints in the sands of time? A flow restrictor shower head can cause enough pressure in a showerhead elbow to cause a poor joint to leak. I had this at my own house at one time. -- Larry Wasserman Baltimore, Maryland |
#26
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"Duane Bozarth" wrote in message ... Harry K wrote: ... Yes. If he needs it threaded at both ends the threads turn different directions...or does it?...hmm, damn, now I have to go looking in my junk pile for a pipe threaded both ends. If that were true, you'd have one r-h and one l-h thread...somewhat inconvenient at best... The taper would be a possible problem though as it would be tougher to get a leak-tight connection. Not a problem most taper thread dies will cut "Running" threads on the pipe if you cut a longer threaded section, and then on to the very end of the threads it will be tapered ( taper length on 3/4" pipe is about 5/8" ) So just tell them to stop the cutting where you would have ended for the distance between the threads on the 3.25" nipple i.e. about 2" William... |
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