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Metalworking (rec.crafts.metalworking) Discuss various aspects of working with metal, such as machining, welding, metal joining, screwing, casting, hardening/tempering, blacksmithing/forging, spinning and hammer work, sheet metal work. |
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#1
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--I've about given up on trying to get some parts AWJ cut out of
2" aluminum plate. Plan B is to make a pattern, make a mold and make some lost wax versions of it. Can someone suggest where I might find a foundry that does lost wax casting in or around the San Francisco Bay Area? --TIA, -- "Steamboat Ed" Haas : Money talks; it Hacking the Trailing Edge! : says "Goodbye"... http://www.nmpproducts.com/intro.htm ---Decks a-wash in a sea of words--- |
#2
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steamer wrote:
--I've about given up on trying to get some parts AWJ cut out of 2" aluminum plate. Plan B is to make a pattern, make a mold and make some lost wax versions of it. Can someone suggest where I might find a foundry that does lost wax casting in or around the San Francisco Bay Area? --TIA, How about these folks? I have no experience with them but they look interesting. --Winston |
#3
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Winston wrote:
steamer wrote: --I've about given up on trying to get some parts AWJ cut out of 2" aluminum plate. Plan B is to make a pattern, make a mold and make some lost wax versions of it. Can someone suggest where I might find a foundry that does lost wax casting in or around the San Francisco Bay Area? --TIA, How about these folks? I have no experience with them but they look interesting. --Winston Oops: http://www.thecrucible.org/ |
#4
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On Thu, 22 Apr 2004 17:20:32 GMT, steamer wrote:
--I've about given up on trying to get some parts AWJ cut out of 2" aluminum plate. Plan B is to make a pattern, make a mold and make some lost wax versions of it. Can someone suggest where I might find a foundry that does lost wax casting in or around the San Francisco Bay Area? --TIA, J.C. Productions in Santa Clara, 408-727-8636 is a pattern maker and could point you in the right direction if they couldn't do it themselves. -- Skuke Reverse the domain name to send email |
#5
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steamer wrote in message ...
--I've about given up on trying to get some parts AWJ cut out of 2" aluminum plate. Plan B is to make a pattern, make a mold and make some lost wax versions of it. Can someone suggest where I might find a foundry that does lost wax casting in or around the San Francisco Bay Area? --TIA, Ed -- Try contacting the foundry people at The Crucible, in Oakland. They do in-house bronze, aluminum, and steel casting. Don't know if they take on outside job work, but they will probably know who does. Regards, Bob |
#6
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steamer wrote in message ...
--I've about given up on trying to get some parts AWJ cut out of 2" aluminum plate. Plan B is to make a pattern, make a mold and make some lost wax versions of it. Can someone suggest where I might find a foundry that does lost wax casting in or around the San Francisco Bay Area? --TIA, Ed -- Try contacting the foundry people at The Crucible, in Oakland. They do in-house bronze, aluminum, and steel casting. Don't know if they take on outside job work, but they will probably know who does. Regards, Bob |
#7
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I've been to the Crucible in Oakland. They are a school/workshop so I
think you'd have to take a casting class or maybe you can find someone to do it for you. I've seen them pour bronze. Don't know what's involved with Al but you should call them. BTW they have shops/classes for everything from glass making to welding. I took a welding class there. |
#9
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Bob Edwards wrote:
: Try contacting the foundry people at The Crucible, in Oakland. They : do in-house bronze, aluminum, and steel casting. Don't know if they : take on outside job work, but they will probably know who does. --Thanks; knew about the place but have yet to make the pilgrimage. Turns out the cost of taking the class is about the same as the cost of getting my parts AWJ cut! :-) OTOH if I make a pattern and an RTV mold of it, then squirt a bunch of lost wax parts it gets a *lot* cheaper... -- "Steamboat Ed" Haas : Money talks; it Hacking the Trailing Edge! : says "Goodbye"... http://www.nmpproducts.com/intro.htm ---Decks a-wash in a sea of words--- |
#10
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I reiterate my question from a previous posting:
"I remember having similar belt problems years ago but I'm wondering why belt manufacturers haven't been able to standardize their length measuring system?" The world of V-belt sizing is a big ratrace. I did a little research on the subject and find that in the MSC catalog an A-40 belt would have an outside length of 42.1" and a pitch length of 41.3. This is what they call a classic V belt. They also have what they call fractional horsepower belts. In this category a 4L400 has an outside length of 40". Grainger has A-40's that are 42" on the outside. They have a limited interchange chart covering 4 manufacturers.Even then nothing is for sure because Machinery"s Handbook (22nd edition) says a 40" belt has an effective outside length variation of +1/4, -5/8". This seems to indicate that you could have 2 new A-40 belts that could differ in length by as much as 7/8" and still be within tolerance. The general consensus of Grainger and the handbook is that the only way to match belts is by pitch length. Here's how the handbook says to determine it. " The pitch length of a V-belt is determined by placing the belt on a measuring fixture consisting of two equal diameter sheaves having standard dimensions and with a total tension of 50 pounds for an A V-belt, 65 pounds for a B V-belt, 165 pounds for a C V-belt, 300 pounds for a D V-belt, and 400 pounds for an E V-belt. One of the sheaves is fixed in position, while the other is movable along a graduated scale with the specified tension applied to it. The sheaves should be rotated at least two revolutions to seat the belt properly in the sheave grooves and to equally divide the total tension between the two strands of the belt. The pitch length is the length obtained by adding the pitch circumference of one of the measuring sheaves to twice the measured center distance between them. Deviation of the measured pitch length from the standard pitch length shown in Table 8 should be within the tolerance limits also given in this table. (+1/4, -5/8".) The grooves of the measuring sheaves should be machined and maintained to the following tolerances: pitch diameter, + - 0.002 inch; groove angle, + - 0 degrees. 20 minutes; and groove top width, + - .002 inch. Belt Length and Center Distance. - The relation between center distance and belt pitch length is given by the following formula: L - 2C + 1.57(D + d) + (d -d squared / 4C) D - pitch diameter of large sheave, in inches d - pitch diameter of small sheave, in inches L - pitch length of belt in inches C - center distance in inches." Fun huh? G Engineman1 To: rec.crafts.metalworking Date: 6/6/2004 The other day I received a letter from my cousin telling me of his experiences replacing a drivebelt on a rooftop air conditioner on his church. The old belt was marked A-40 so to be on the safe side he bought a A-40-1/2. It was way too tight so he got an A-41. Still too tight so he had to move the motor. I remember having similar belt problems years ago but I'm wondering why belt manufacturers haven't been able to standardize their length measuring system? I change belts almost every day in my job. Belt lengths are standardized. If the old belt was an A-40 the new one should be an A-40. The old belt probably was stretched. Greg Hey Engineman, Went through something similar for the lawn tractor just the other day. The local Husqevarna (SP??) dealer carries Dayco brand belts. An AP92 is 94 inches long and a AP67 is 69 inches. Just add two inches to what the "number" is. I asked why, and he says it is because Dayco measures a belt by the inside or contact circumference, while some other manufacturers use the outside circumference. So, a quick go-round with my calculator says that if the belt "thickness' (depth) is 3/8", then a belt with ID circumference of 92 inches will have diameter of 29.29". Add 3/8" thick for the belt to get OD diameter of 30.04" and an OD circumference of 94.35. Chuckle..I just completed a Hardinge HC/OmniTurn retrofit..and did a direct drive conversion as well by pulling the varidrive, installing double sheave pulleys etc etc. I ordered a matching pair of B-88 belts from Graingers..and one was at least 1" longer than the other. Checking their stock..they tended to run from 3/8 to 1.5" out of spec. I ordered a matching pair of Browing belts (which is what I should have done in the first place but was in a hurry) from my usual source and they WILL be matching. Gunner |
#11
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![]() The old belt was marked A-40 so to be on the safe side he bought a A-40-1/2. It was way too tight so he got an A-41. A-belts are 1-1/2" longer than their marked length. RMA standards cover A-belts, as these are intended for multi-sheave operations. Light duty belts (3L, 4L) aren't. Incredible that Hardinge Bros designed my TM and TL for 3L belts. Naturally, these have to be specially matched. |
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