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Default Painting kitchen cabinets (HVLP sprayer)

I gave up on staining the cabinets and am considering painting them. A
stain will keep the kitchen dark and the cabinets are already outdated
as is.

Previous posts show that people had the best results with a HVLP
sprayer and using oil based primer and paints. (2 coats primer, 2
coats paint, 1 poly).

Building on that, Any paint suggestions, thining techniques, or
painting sprayer suggestions (wagner HVLP?)?


C_kubie

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m Ransley
 
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Ben Moore has enamel underbody a primer made for sanding with 300g, for
a low sheen use satin impervo, high gloss , use Impervo. You dont need
or want a poly topcoat or need 2 coats primer and finish

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longshot
 
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So skip the primer and the poly.

Two coats of paint and done?

what's on em now?


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So skip the primer and the poly.

Two coats of paint and done?

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m Ransley
 
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You need to prime, maybe 2 coats if you spray thin but the moore Enamel
underbody is a sandable primer for wood, sandable oil primers are rare
for wood that can be brushed on. Like a car, the quality finishes are
all in the sanding to get rid of bumps and orange peel, so you can sand
out any imperfections you spray on, and wood grain, so it is perfectly
smooth for the finish coat. Experiment on scrap sheet wood first to get
technique, your finish coat is it. But now with spraying you have alot
of options on different sanding primers and even more durable paints, I
just told you about Benjamin Moore, not pro spray paints for HVLP like
laquer and epoxys etc .



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DanG
 
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What is on them now?

What was on them before?

Are you looking for a glossy finish?

I would suggest that you go to a paint store (not Lowe's or HD),
preferably one that specializes in working with commercial
painters. With the answers to the above questions, ask for their
advice. Make sure that the sanding sealer, primer, finish paint,
clear coat, etc are chemically compatible. They will probably
tell you to buy all in the same brand, but be very clear about
families of products within one brand. Be very clear about mixing
latex and oil. Be very clear about sand papers / steel wool /
etc.

HVLP is an excellent paint gun. Unless you have additional uses,
ask at the very same paint store about renting a dedicated HVLP
system. If you already own a substantial compressor you may get
your best bang for the buck with an HVLP conversion gun.


(top posted for your convenience)
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Keep the whole world singing . . . .
DanG (remove the sevens)




wrote in message
oups.com...
I gave up on staining the cabinets and am considering painting
them. A
stain will keep the kitchen dark and the cabinets are already
outdated
as is.

Previous posts show that people had the best results with a HVLP
sprayer and using oil based primer and paints. (2 coats primer,
2
coats paint, 1 poly).

Building on that, Any paint suggestions, thining techniques, or
painting sprayer suggestions (wagner HVLP?)?


C_kubie



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dadiOH
 
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m Ransley wrote:

Enamel underbody is a sandable primer for wood, sandable oil primers
are rare for wood that can be brushed on.


They are indeed and I am really glad you posted about it!

--
dadiOH
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....a help file of info about MP3s, recording from
LP/cassette and tips & tricks on this and that.
Get it at http://mysite.verizon.net/xico


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m Ransley
 
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With Benjamin Moore Enamal Underbody brushed on, then sanded with
300-400g then painted with a Real paint like Ben Moore oil Impervo line
or Pratt & Lambert Effecto line, adding Penetrol, using a very good Hair
brush you can honestly get a sprayed on look brushless and smooth. This
is the way it used to be done all the time on all quality wood room
trim. Very few painters know how to get great results today. Of course
spraying is easier as long as you don`t drip or undercover getting
orange peel. Sure it is the most expensive primer - paint but some jobs
deserve it.

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