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Painting kitchen cabinets (HVLP sprayer)
I gave up on staining the cabinets and am considering painting them. A
stain will keep the kitchen dark and the cabinets are already outdated as is. Previous posts show that people had the best results with a HVLP sprayer and using oil based primer and paints. (2 coats primer, 2 coats paint, 1 poly). Building on that, Any paint suggestions, thining techniques, or painting sprayer suggestions (wagner HVLP?)? C_kubie |
Ben Moore has enamel underbody a primer made for sanding with 300g, for
a low sheen use satin impervo, high gloss , use Impervo. You dont need or want a poly topcoat or need 2 coats primer and finish |
So skip the primer and the poly. Two coats of paint and done? what's on em now? |
So skip the primer and the poly.
Two coats of paint and done? |
You need to prime, maybe 2 coats if you spray thin but the moore Enamel
underbody is a sandable primer for wood, sandable oil primers are rare for wood that can be brushed on. Like a car, the quality finishes are all in the sanding to get rid of bumps and orange peel, so you can sand out any imperfections you spray on, and wood grain, so it is perfectly smooth for the finish coat. Experiment on scrap sheet wood first to get technique, your finish coat is it. But now with spraying you have alot of options on different sanding primers and even more durable paints, I just told you about Benjamin Moore, not pro spray paints for HVLP like laquer and epoxys etc . |
What is on them now?
What was on them before? Are you looking for a glossy finish? I would suggest that you go to a paint store (not Lowe's or HD), preferably one that specializes in working with commercial painters. With the answers to the above questions, ask for their advice. Make sure that the sanding sealer, primer, finish paint, clear coat, etc are chemically compatible. They will probably tell you to buy all in the same brand, but be very clear about families of products within one brand. Be very clear about mixing latex and oil. Be very clear about sand papers / steel wool / etc. HVLP is an excellent paint gun. Unless you have additional uses, ask at the very same paint store about renting a dedicated HVLP system. If you already own a substantial compressor you may get your best bang for the buck with an HVLP conversion gun. (top posted for your convenience) ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ Keep the whole world singing . . . . DanG (remove the sevens) wrote in message oups.com... I gave up on staining the cabinets and am considering painting them. A stain will keep the kitchen dark and the cabinets are already outdated as is. Previous posts show that people had the best results with a HVLP sprayer and using oil based primer and paints. (2 coats primer, 2 coats paint, 1 poly). Building on that, Any paint suggestions, thining techniques, or painting sprayer suggestions (wagner HVLP?)? C_kubie |
m Ransley wrote:
Enamel underbody is a sandable primer for wood, sandable oil primers are rare for wood that can be brushed on. They are indeed and I am really glad you posted about it! -- dadiOH ____________________________ dadiOH's dandies v3.06... ....a help file of info about MP3s, recording from LP/cassette and tips & tricks on this and that. Get it at http://mysite.verizon.net/xico |
With Benjamin Moore Enamal Underbody brushed on, then sanded with
300-400g then painted with a Real paint like Ben Moore oil Impervo line or Pratt & Lambert Effecto line, adding Penetrol, using a very good Hair brush you can honestly get a sprayed on look brushless and smooth. This is the way it used to be done all the time on all quality wood room trim. Very few painters know how to get great results today. Of course spraying is easier as long as you don`t drip or undercover getting orange peel. Sure it is the most expensive primer - paint but some jobs deserve it. |
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