My 6 year old LiftMaster/Chamberlain 1265 has stopped working. When I push
the button it hums for a few seconds twice, and then nothing. I disengaged
the door, but it doesn't help.
Any ideas what to do? I sent them an email, but with the holidays I am
sure it will be a week or two until they reply. Funny thing is that you
have a choice of complaint, and one is "hums without working"; but their FAQ
does not mention the solution.
Thanks.

"toller" wrote in message
...
My 6 year old LiftMaster/Chamberlain 1265 has stopped working. When I
push the button it hums for a few seconds twice, and then nothing. I
disengaged the door, but it doesn't help.
Any ideas what to do? I sent them an email, but with the holidays I am
sure it will be a week or two until they reply. Funny thing is that you
have a choice of complaint, and one is "hums without working"; but their
FAQ does not mention the solution.
Thanks.

need more details, could you hum a few lines?
just kidding ; ) seasons' greetings

My guess would be a plastic gear stripped and has to be replaced.


"toller" wrote in message
...
My 6 year old LiftMaster/Chamberlain 1265 has stopped working. When I
push the button it hums for a few seconds twice, and then nothing. I
disengaged the door, but it doesn't help.
Any ideas what to do? I sent them an email, but with the holidays I am
sure it will be a week or two until they reply. Funny thing is that you
have a choice of complaint, and one is "hums without working"; but their
FAQ does not mention the solution.
Thanks.

On Sun, 26 Dec 2004 01:23:02 GMT, "toller" wrote:

My 6 year old LiftMaster/Chamberlain 1265 has stopped working. When I push
the button it hums for a few seconds twice, and then nothing. I disengaged
the door, but it doesn't help.
Any ideas what to do? I sent them an email, but with the holidays I am
sure it will be a week or two until they reply. Funny thing is that you
have a choice of complaint, and one is "hums without working"; but their FAQ
does not mention the solution.
Thanks.

Plastic gear stripped.

Replace the opener.

But before connecting to the new one, check to see that the
door raises and lowers easily, with no binding points.
Would be nice if it comes to an easy stop at about hip height, and
then you need to push it down the rest of the way. That way, if you
have to disengage it, it's not so hard to raise it on your own. Also
takes a lot of pressure off the opener, pressure that could cause a
worn gear.

toller wrote in message
...
My 6 year old LiftMaster/Chamberlain 1265 has stopped working. When I
push
the button it hums for a few seconds twice, and then nothing. I
disengaged
the door, but it doesn't help.
Any ideas what to do? I sent them an email, but with the holidays I am
sure it will be a week or two until they reply. Funny thing is that you
have a choice of complaint, and one is "hums without working"; but their
FAQ
does not mention the solution.
Thanks.

Would'nt that be more of a grinding sound? The gear? That's how I
diagnosed mine. Good luck

toller wrote:
My 6 year old LiftMaster/Chamberlain 1265 has stopped working. When I push
the button it hums for a few seconds twice, and then nothing. I disengaged
the door, but it doesn't help.
Any ideas what to do? I sent them an email, but with the holidays I am
sure it will be a week or two until they reply. Funny thing is that you
have a choice of complaint, and one is "hums without working"; but their FAQ
does not mention the solution.
Thanks.


Sounds like the gears are stripped. A new gear set can be installed
without replacing the opener. Had one done a couple years ago was $35
plus the cost of the service call ($65 I think). Of course this gets
pretty close to the cost of a new opener if you do the install yourself.
You could probably order & install the gear set yourself, but I'm not
sure how difficult it would be.

Gear kit is $26 plus S & H at
http://www.aaaremotes.com/lifgearkit.html
Not necessarily the one that's needed, but there's an
800 number listed at http://www.aaaremotes.com/liftmaster.html

Dennis Turner wrote in message
...
Sounds like the gears are stripped. A new gear set can be installed
without replacing the opener. Had one done a couple years ago was $35
plus the cost of the service call ($65 I think). Of course this gets
pretty close to the cost of a new opener if you do the install yourself.
You could probably order & install the gear set yourself, but I'm not
sure how difficult it would be.

Sounds like a bad capacitor, bad limit switch, bad circuit board or
stuck button. If it was a gear, the motor would usually run until you
hit the button to stop it & not usually run for just a couple of
seconds.

Unplug opener, remove cover, if it looks like it snowed inside, the
gear is shot, if you see what looks like oil in the cover the capacitor
is blown. Sometimes the capacitor itself will show it is obviously
blown.

If nothing appears obvious the challenge becomes in determining which
part is bad when you don't have a truck full of parts sitting in your
driveway. The opener could have run thru a limit & jammed to where the
motor doesn't have enough power to unjam it. The motor capacitor could
be bad to where it doesn't give the motor the starting power. The
circuit board could be faulty & is actually telling the motor to run in
both directions at the same time. A button could be stuck.

First unhook the wall button wiring at motor head to see if
transmitters work. If not remove all transmitter batteries & jump
across terminal screws on motor head to see if it now works. If not,
try spinning the motor shaft (w/ opener unplugged & door disconnected)
to get the opener in the half way position. Plug in opener to see what
happens. Will the opener run one direction & not the other (bad board)?
If motor just hums try to spin the motor shaft (carefully while unit is
humming) & see if it runs (bad capacitor). If motor still won't start
tap on circuit board relays (there are 3, light, up, & down) lightly to
free up a stuck relay contact. If the motor does run verify that the
limit switches will shut it off & not simply run thru them.

As you can see there are a number of possibilities & "humming" doesn't
always have the same fix.

Doordoc
www.DoorsAndOpeners.com

I took the cover off. The gears were fine, the capacitor looked fine, and
there was no oil.
There was an orange light blinking 5 times next to a red button. I pushed
the red button and the orange light went to constant on I tried the
opener; there was a "tic-tock" sound and the orange light started blinking 5
times.
I unplugged and plugged back in. The orange light went out. I tried it; it
hummed and went back blinking 5 times.

To see if I could determine just what was humming, I touched the back of the
capacitor while the opener was humming. The motor started up, and all is
well now. The orange light is still blinking 5 times.

There are no loose connections (at least none that I can see). I did not
push the capacitor; the second I touched it the motor came on.

What the hell happened! Is it fixed, or should I replace something while I
have it open?

Thanks.

(Two days ago my wireless router simply died, and defied all attempts at
resetting. This morning I tried it, and it was fine. Something to do with
Christmas?)

wrote in message
ups.com...
Sounds like a bad capacitor, bad limit switch, bad circuit board or
stuck button. If it was a gear, the motor would usually run until you
hit the button to stop it & not usually run for just a couple of
seconds.

Unplug opener, remove cover, if it looks like it snowed inside, the
gear is shot, if you see what looks like oil in the cover the capacitor
is blown. Sometimes the capacitor itself will show it is obviously
blown.

If nothing appears obvious the challenge becomes in determining which
part is bad when you don't have a truck full of parts sitting in your
driveway. The opener could have run thru a limit & jammed to where the
motor doesn't have enough power to unjam it. The motor capacitor could
be bad to where it doesn't give the motor the starting power. The
circuit board could be faulty & is actually telling the motor to run in
both directions at the same time. A button could be stuck.

First unhook the wall button wiring at motor head to see if
transmitters work. If not remove all transmitter batteries & jump
across terminal screws on motor head to see if it now works. If not,
try spinning the motor shaft (w/ opener unplugged & door disconnected)
to get the opener in the half way position. Plug in opener to see what
happens. Will the opener run one direction & not the other (bad board)?
If motor just hums try to spin the motor shaft (carefully while unit is
humming) & see if it runs (bad capacitor). If motor still won't start
tap on circuit board relays (there are 3, light, up, & down) lightly to
free up a stuck relay contact. If the motor does run verify that the
limit switches will shut it off & not simply run thru them.

As you can see there are a number of possibilities & "humming" doesn't
always have the same fix.

Doordoc
www.DoorsAndOpeners.com

Maybe it doesn't know the words.
--
8^)~~~ Sue (remove the x to e-mail)
~~~~~~
"I reserve the absolute right to be smarter
today than I was yesterday." -Adlai Stevenson

http://www.suzanne-eckhardt.com/
***Revelation 22:12*** ICQ: 349878998
http://www.intergnat.com/malebashing/

toller wrote:

I took the cover off. The gears were fine, the capacitor looked fine, and
there was no oil.
There was an orange light blinking 5 times next to a red button. I pushed
the red button and the orange light went to constant on I tried the
opener; there was a "tic-tock" sound and the orange light started blinking 5
times.
I unplugged and plugged back in. The orange light went out. I tried it; it
hummed and went back blinking 5 times.

To see if I could determine just what was humming, I touched the back of the
capacitor while the opener was humming. The motor started up, and all is
well now. The orange light is still blinking 5 times.

There are no loose connections (at least none that I can see). I did not
push the capacitor; the second I touched it the motor came on.

What the hell happened! Is it fixed, or should I replace something while I
have it open?

Thanks.

(Two days ago my wireless router simply died, and defied all attempts at
resetting. This morning I tried it, and it was fine. Something to do with
Christmas?)

wrote in message
ups.com...

Sounds like a bad capacitor, bad limit switch, bad circuit board or
stuck button. If it was a gear, the motor would usually run until you
hit the button to stop it & not usually run for just a couple of
seconds.

Unplug opener, remove cover, if it looks like it snowed inside, the
gear is shot, if you see what looks like oil in the cover the capacitor
is blown. Sometimes the capacitor itself will show it is obviously
blown.

If nothing appears obvious the challenge becomes in determining which
part is bad when you don't have a truck full of parts sitting in your
driveway. The opener could have run thru a limit & jammed to where the
motor doesn't have enough power to unjam it. The motor capacitor could
be bad to where it doesn't give the motor the starting power. The
circuit board could be faulty & is actually telling the motor to run in
both directions at the same time. A button could be stuck.

First unhook the wall button wiring at motor head to see if
transmitters work. If not remove all transmitter batteries & jump
across terminal screws on motor head to see if it now works. If not,
try spinning the motor shaft (w/ opener unplugged & door disconnected)
to get the opener in the half way position. Plug in opener to see what
happens. Will the opener run one direction & not the other (bad board)?
If motor just hums try to spin the motor shaft (carefully while unit is
humming) & see if it runs (bad capacitor). If motor still won't start
tap on circuit board relays (there are 3, light, up, & down) lightly to
free up a stuck relay contact. If the motor does run verify that the
limit switches will shut it off & not simply run thru them.

As you can see there are a number of possibilities & "humming" doesn't
always have the same fix.

Doordoc
www.DoorsAndOpeners.com




You may have a cold solder joint that when you touched it, it became in
contact again. Get a solder iron and heat up both connections to ensure
a good tight joint.

041225 2023 - toller posted:

My 6 year old LiftMaster/Chamberlain 1265 has stopped working. When I push
the button it hums for a few seconds twice, and then nothing. I disengaged
the door, but it doesn't help.
Any ideas what to do? I sent them an email, but with the holidays I am
sure it will be a week or two until they reply. Funny thing is that you
have a choice of complaint, and one is "hums without working"; but their FAQ
does not mention the solution.
Thanks.



Any motor that just hums and doesn't turn over indicates, usually, that the
centrifugal switch has failed and needs the contacts cleaned. The motor
will have to be removed and the ends taken off. The contacts could just be
dirty, or maybe burned a little. Some emory paper should polish them up and
then put the whole thing back together and connect to the line voltage and
see if that will solve your problem.

I had the exact same problem. The large plastic drive gear was worn and
would not engage the worm gear. I ordered on line, replaced it and it worked
fine. Take the cover off the operator and look inside. You will most likely
see your problem.
"Art" wrote in message
link.net...
My guess would be a plastic gear stripped and has to be replaced.


"toller" wrote in message
...
My 6 year old LiftMaster/Chamberlain 1265 has stopped working. When I
push the button it hums for a few seconds twice, and then nothing. I
disengaged the door, but it doesn't help.
Any ideas what to do? I sent them an email, but with the holidays I am
sure it will be a week or two until they reply. Funny thing is that you
have a choice of complaint, and one is "hums without working"; but their
FAQ does not mention the solution.
Thanks.