My dad's house was built in 1978.

When my dad had to have a water heater replaced in 2016, the plumber
told him the water pressure was very high, at 115 psi, and he should
install a pressure regulator where the water supply comes into the
house, and that would be less stress on the appliances and faucets. I
didn't know if the plumber was just trying to get more work or not. The
water pressure has been 115 psi for as long as I know, with no problems.
I called the water department, and they told me yes it is 115 psi in his
location.

He likes the water pressure because the lawn sprinklers squirt far. If
he puts in a pressure regulator, I see that they are adjustable,
generally up to 75 -80 psi. That's a big drop from what he has now.

The all brass automatic sprinkler valves are starting to leak, and need
to be replaced. Since they are next in line from the water supply
line/valve to the house, he thought that if he was going to replace the
sprinkler valves, which require removing the main valve to the house, he
might as well have the regulator installed too.

Will this big drop in pressure cause any of the seals/gaskets in
appliances/faucets which have been under 115 psi for years, cause the
seals/gaskets to 'back off' and not be held as tight anymore?

In my own home, the pressure is 65-80 psi, and all works well.


https://postimg.cc/p9Jcc1hW

The red knob is the supply valve from the street to the house. This
valve sounds a little crunchy when rotated, but doesn't leak. The blue
knob goes to the manifold for the four automatic sprinkler valves.
Originally manual sprinkler valves, and at some time auto-actuators were
added. One valve leaks at the diaphragm and another leaks at the
non-pressure connection.

On 8/9/2020 10:16 PM, Mike wrote:
My dad's house was built in 1978.

When my dad had to have a water heater replaced in 2016, the plumber
told him the water pressure was very high, at 115 psi, and he should
install a pressure regulator where the water supply comes into the
house, and that would be less stress on the appliances and faucets.Â* I
didn't know if the plumber was just trying to get more work or not.Â* The
water pressure has been 115 psi for as long as I know, with no problems.
I called the water department, and they told me yes it is 115 psi in his
location.

He likes the water pressure because the lawn sprinklers squirt far.Â* If
he puts in a pressure regulator, I see that they are adjustable,
generally up to 75 -80 psi.Â* That's a big drop from what he has now.

The all brass automatic sprinkler valves are starting to leak, and need
to be replaced.Â* Since they are next in line from the water supply
line/valve to the house, he thought that if he was going to replace the
sprinkler valves, which require removing the main valve to the house, he
might as well have the regulator installed too.

Will this big drop in pressure cause any of the seals/gaskets in
appliances/faucets which have been under 115 psi for years, cause the
seals/gaskets to 'back off' and not be held as tight anymore?

....

40-60 psi is considered a normal range; regulators generally are preset
at 50 psi.

Reducing the pressure won't cause leaks that weren't there before, no.

Outside pressure higher than inside wouldn't be a bad choice if you
could manage the arrangement conveniently.

--

On Monday, August 10, 2020 at 9:11:16 AM UTC-4, dpb wrote:
On 8/9/2020 10:16 PM, Mike wrote:
My dad's house was built in 1978.

When my dad had to have a water heater replaced in 2016, the plumber
told him the water pressure was very high, at 115 psi, and he should
install a pressure regulator where the water supply comes into the
house, and that would be less stress on the appliances and faucets.Â* I
didn't know if the plumber was just trying to get more work or not.Â* The
water pressure has been 115 psi for as long as I know, with no problems..
I called the water department, and they told me yes it is 115 psi in his
location.

He likes the water pressure because the lawn sprinklers squirt far.Â* If
he puts in a pressure regulator, I see that they are adjustable,
generally up to 75 -80 psi.Â* That's a big drop from what he has now.

The all brass automatic sprinkler valves are starting to leak, and need
to be replaced.Â* Since they are next in line from the water supply
line/valve to the house, he thought that if he was going to replace the
sprinkler valves, which require removing the main valve to the house, he
might as well have the regulator installed too.

Will this big drop in pressure cause any of the seals/gaskets in
appliances/faucets which have been under 115 psi for years, cause the
seals/gaskets to 'back off' and not be held as tight anymore?

...

40-60 psi is considered a normal range; regulators generally are preset
at 50 psi.

Reducing the pressure won't cause leaks that weren't there before, no.

Outside pressure higher than inside wouldn't be a bad choice if you
could manage the arrangement conveniently.

--

+1

And IDK why replacing sprinkler system components requires turning off
the water from the street. The red valve shuts off all the water, the
blue valve for the sprinklers is after it. I guess since the main valve
is old, probably a good idea to change it anyway. Depending on the sprinkler
layout and range, reducing that pressure could be an issue or not.
But even there, if there is an issue, good chance you could have a higher
than normal system pressure, eg 75, but still have the sprinklers work
OK. On the other hand it's been high for a long time with no problems.
One issue could be that any new things added, eg refrigerator with ice
maker, may not be designed to handle it and they make all these things
cheaper than they used to, so it could be an issue with some new component
someday.

On Mon, 10 Aug 2020 08:11:09 -0500, dpb wrote:

On 8/9/2020 10:16 PM, Mike wrote:
My dad's house was built in 1978.

When my dad had to have a water heater replaced in 2016, the plumber
told him the water pressure was very high, at 115 psi, and he should
install a pressure regulator where the water supply comes into the
house, and that would be less stress on the appliances and faucets.Â* I
didn't know if the plumber was just trying to get more work or not.Â* The
water pressure has been 115 psi for as long as I know, with no problems.
I called the water department, and they told me yes it is 115 psi in his
location.

He likes the water pressure because the lawn sprinklers squirt far.Â* If
he puts in a pressure regulator, I see that they are adjustable,
generally up to 75 -80 psi.Â* That's a big drop from what he has now.

The all brass automatic sprinkler valves are starting to leak, and need
to be replaced.Â* Since they are next in line from the water supply
line/valve to the house, he thought that if he was going to replace the
sprinkler valves, which require removing the main valve to the house, he
might as well have the regulator installed too.

Will this big drop in pressure cause any of the seals/gaskets in
appliances/faucets which have been under 115 psi for years, cause the
seals/gaskets to 'back off' and not be held as tight anymore?

...

40-60 psi is considered a normal range; regulators generally are preset
at 50 psi.

Reducing the pressure won't cause leaks that weren't there before, no.

Outside pressure higher than inside wouldn't be a bad choice if you
could manage the arrangement conveniently.

That sounds strange. 40-60 might be normal for a well but plumbing
fixture flow rates are based on 80 PSI.
I got into this with the tech rep at Price ****er over a kitchen
faucet that was putting 2 GPM and was rated at 3. (Still damn slow if
you are filling a sink or a big pot)

On Mon, 10 Aug 2020 06:51:43 -0700 (PDT), trader_4
wrote:

On Monday, August 10, 2020 at 9:11:16 AM UTC-4, dpb wrote:
On 8/9/2020 10:16 PM, Mike wrote:
My dad's house was built in 1978.

When my dad had to have a water heater replaced in 2016, the plumber
told him the water pressure was very high, at 115 psi, and he should
install a pressure regulator where the water supply comes into the
house, and that would be less stress on the appliances and faucets.Â* I
didn't know if the plumber was just trying to get more work or not.Â* The
water pressure has been 115 psi for as long as I know, with no problems.
I called the water department, and they told me yes it is 115 psi in his
location.

He likes the water pressure because the lawn sprinklers squirt far.Â* If
he puts in a pressure regulator, I see that they are adjustable,
generally up to 75 -80 psi.Â* That's a big drop from what he has now.

The all brass automatic sprinkler valves are starting to leak, and need
to be replaced.Â* Since they are next in line from the water supply
line/valve to the house, he thought that if he was going to replace the
sprinkler valves, which require removing the main valve to the house, he
might as well have the regulator installed too.

Will this big drop in pressure cause any of the seals/gaskets in
appliances/faucets which have been under 115 psi for years, cause the
seals/gaskets to 'back off' and not be held as tight anymore?

...

40-60 psi is considered a normal range; regulators generally are preset
at 50 psi.

Reducing the pressure won't cause leaks that weren't there before, no.

Outside pressure higher than inside wouldn't be a bad choice if you
could manage the arrangement conveniently.

--

+1

And IDK why replacing sprinkler system components requires turning off
the water from the street. The red valve shuts off all the water, the
blue valve for the sprinklers is after it. I guess since the main valve
is old, probably a good idea to change it anyway. Depending on the sprinkler
layout and range, reducing that pressure could be an issue or not.
But even there, if there is an issue, good chance you could have a higher
than normal system pressure, eg 75, but still have the sprinklers work
OK. On the other hand it's been high for a long time with no problems.
One issue could be that any new things added, eg refrigerator with ice
maker, may not be designed to handle it and they make all these things
cheaper than they used to, so it could be an issue with some new component
someday.

Most things are rated at 100 PSI or so but stuff like pipes and valves
should be able to take much more than that. Even garden variety white
PVC is rated 480 PSI. Copper and galvanized, more than that.

You are right, I would be pretty nervous about that milky vinyl tubing
most people end up with behind the fridge but I haven't used it since
I had one break and flood the house. Fortunately this house had
terrazzo floors so the damage was minimal. It was pitched so most of
the water went out the slider. The cabinets had real wood kicks.

On 8/10/20 12:33 PM, wrote:
Some cut.
Most things are rated at 100 PSI or so but stuff like pipes and valves
should be able to take much more than that. Even garden variety white
PVC is rated 480 PSI. Copper and galvanized, more than that.

That 480 psi must be a typo instead of a dummy attack. I
repaired center pivots where gallonage ran in the area of 700 gpm and
pressure at the center point was around 35 psi. End pressure was
supposed to be around 20 psi. That would be about 1300 feet away with 6
5/8" pipe.
The pivots were often supplied with buried 8" pvc pipe rated at 80
psi.

You are right, I would be pretty nervous about that milky vinyl tubing
most people end up with behind the fridge but I haven't used it since
I had one break and flood the house. Fortunately this house had
terrazzo floors so the damage was minimal. It was pitched so most of
the water went out the slider. The cabinets had real wood kicks.

Dean Hoffman writes:
On 8/10/20 12:33 PM, wrote:
Some cut.
Most things are rated at 100 PSI or so but stuff like pipes and valves
should be able to take much more than that. Even garden variety white
PVC is rated 480 PSI. Copper and galvanized, more than that.

That 480 psi must be a typo instead of a dummy attack.

Yeah, must be a typo. The piece of 1/2" schedule 40 PVC pipe
I have in my hand is printed with 600 PSI at 73 degrees Fahrenheit
(and a manufacturing date of 1988).

On 8/10/2020 2:50 PM, Scott Lurndal wrote:
Dean Hoffman writes:
On 8/10/20 12:33 PM, wrote:
Some cut.
Most things are rated at 100 PSI or so but stuff like pipes and valves
should be able to take much more than that. Even garden variety white
PVC is rated 480 PSI. Copper and galvanized, more than that.

That 480 psi must be a typo instead of a dummy attack.

Yeah, must be a typo. The piece of 1/2" schedule 40 PVC pipe
I have in my hand is printed with 600 PSI at 73 degrees Fahrenheit
(and a manufacturing date of 1988).

It goes down by size... Sch 40 is

1/2 600
3/4 480
1 450
1-1/4 370
1-1/2 330

The derating with temperature above 73 F goes down pretty quickly, too,
so for hot water @ 0.5 for 110 F it's starting down the road...at 120F
the derate factor is 0.4 and 0.2 at 140F.

--

On Mon, 10 Aug 2020 14:15:00 -0500, Dean Hoffman
wrote:

On 8/10/20 12:33 PM, wrote:
Some cut.
Most things are rated at 100 PSI or so but stuff like pipes and valves
should be able to take much more than that. Even garden variety white
PVC is rated 480 PSI. Copper and galvanized, more than that.

That 480 psi must be a typo instead of a dummy attack.

1/2" sched 40 is 600 PSI,
3/4" sched 40 is 480 PSI

https://flexpvc.com/Reference/PVCPipeSize.shtml

Regular white PVC is the 3d yellow column.

On Mon, 10 Aug 2020 19:50:37 GMT, (Scott Lurndal)
wrote:

Dean Hoffman writes:
On 8/10/20 12:33 PM, wrote:
Some cut.
Most things are rated at 100 PSI or so but stuff like pipes and valves
should be able to take much more than that. Even garden variety white
PVC is rated 480 PSI. Copper and galvanized, more than that.

That 480 psi must be a typo instead of a dummy attack.

Yeah, must be a typo. The piece of 1/2" schedule 40 PVC pipe
I have in my hand is printed with 600 PSI at 73 degrees Fahrenheit
(and a manufacturing date of 1988).

3/4" is 480. That is usually the largest you see on the pressure side
in a dwelling.
CPVC has a similar rating.

On 8/10/20 2:50 PM, Scott Lurndal wrote:
Dean Hoffman writes:
On 8/10/20 12:33 PM, wrote:
Some cut.
Most things are rated at 100 PSI or so but stuff like pipes and valves
should be able to take much more than that. Even garden variety white
PVC is rated 480 PSI. Copper and galvanized, more than that.

That 480 psi must be a typo instead of a dummy attack.

Yeah, must be a typo. The piece of 1/2" schedule 40 PVC pipe
I have in my hand is printed with 600 PSI at 73 degrees Fahrenheit
(and a manufacturing date of 1988).

Well, I never would've imagined pvc pipe was that strong. I
wasn't planning on it but I learned something. I got curious if what
we'd always called 80 psi pipe was that.
I looked up the supplier to see.
https://www.kroyind.com/catalog/pdf/cat12.pdf#page=1

On Mon, 10 Aug 2020 15:37:50 -0500, dpb wrote:

On 8/10/2020 2:50 PM, Scott Lurndal wrote:
Dean Hoffman writes:
On 8/10/20 12:33 PM, wrote:
Some cut.
Most things are rated at 100 PSI or so but stuff like pipes and valves
should be able to take much more than that. Even garden variety white
PVC is rated 480 PSI. Copper and galvanized, more than that.

That 480 psi must be a typo instead of a dummy attack.

Yeah, must be a typo. The piece of 1/2" schedule 40 PVC pipe
I have in my hand is printed with 600 PSI at 73 degrees Fahrenheit
(and a manufacturing date of 1988).

It goes down by size... Sch 40 is

1/2 600
3/4 480
1 450
1-1/4 370
1-1/2 330

The derating with temperature above 73 F goes down pretty quickly, too,
so for hot water @ 0.5 for 110 F it's starting down the road...at 120F
the derate factor is 0.4 and 0.2 at 140F.

That is why homes will be piped in CPVC that has better hot water
performance although PEX is taking over these days. I assume in some
mobbed up union states they still use copper but I seldom see it here.

On Mon, 10 Aug 2020 22:00:17 -0500, Dean Hoffman
wrote:

On 8/10/20 2:50 PM, Scott Lurndal wrote:
Dean Hoffman writes:
On 8/10/20 12:33 PM, wrote:
Some cut.
Most things are rated at 100 PSI or so but stuff like pipes and valves
should be able to take much more than that. Even garden variety white
PVC is rated 480 PSI. Copper and galvanized, more than that.

That 480 psi must be a typo instead of a dummy attack.

Yeah, must be a typo. The piece of 1/2" schedule 40 PVC pipe
I have in my hand is printed with 600 PSI at 73 degrees Fahrenheit
(and a manufacturing date of 1988).

Well, I never would've imagined pvc pipe was that strong. I
wasn't planning on it but I learned something. I got curious if what
we'd always called 80 psi pipe was that.
I looked up the supplier to see.
https://www.kroyind.com/catalog/pdf/cat12.pdf#page=1

Even the thin wall PVC they use for sprinklers is 200 PSI.

On 8/10/2020 6:11 AM, dpb wrote:
On 8/9/2020 10:16 PM, Mike wrote:
My dad's house was built in 1978.


WHAT A GODDAMNED DUMB****!

On Mon, 10 Aug 2020 18:45:59 -0400, posted for all of us to
digest...


On Mon, 10 Aug 2020 14:15:00 -0500, Dean Hoffman
wrote:

On 8/10/20 12:33 PM, wrote:
Some cut.
Most things are rated at 100 PSI or so but stuff like pipes and valves
should be able to take much more than that. Even garden variety white
PVC is rated 480 PSI. Copper and galvanized, more than that.

That 480 psi must be a typo instead of a dummy attack.

1/2" sched 40 is 600 PSI,
3/4" sched 40 is 480 PSI

https://flexpvc.com/Reference/PVCPipeSize.shtml

Regular white PVC is the 3d yellow column.

Man o man they got the stuff!

--
Tekkie

On Tue, 11 Aug 2020 13:05:03 -0400, posted for all of us to
digest...


On Mon, 10 Aug 2020 15:37:50 -0500, dpb wrote:

On 8/10/2020 2:50 PM, Scott Lurndal wrote:
Dean Hoffman writes:
On 8/10/20 12:33 PM, wrote:
Some cut.
Most things are rated at 100 PSI or so but stuff like pipes and valves
should be able to take much more than that. Even garden variety white
PVC is rated 480 PSI. Copper and galvanized, more than that.

That 480 psi must be a typo instead of a dummy attack.

Yeah, must be a typo. The piece of 1/2" schedule 40 PVC pipe
I have in my hand is printed with 600 PSI at 73 degrees Fahrenheit
(and a manufacturing date of 1988).

It goes down by size... Sch 40 is

1/2 600
3/4 480
1 450
1-1/4 370
1-1/2 330

The derating with temperature above 73 F goes down pretty quickly, too,
so for hot water @ 0.5 for 110 F it's starting down the road...at 120F
the derate factor is 0.4 and 0.2 at 140F.

That is why homes will be piped in CPVC that has better hot water
performance although PEX is taking over these days. I assume in some
mobbed up union states they still use copper but I seldom see it here.

PVC is not to be used for air piping; I assume because of impact damage?

--
Tekkie

On Wed, 12 Aug 2020 16:41:26 -0400, Tekkie®
wrote:


On Tue, 11 Aug 2020 13:05:03 -0400, posted for all of us to
digest...


On Mon, 10 Aug 2020 15:37:50 -0500, dpb wrote:

On 8/10/2020 2:50 PM, Scott Lurndal wrote:
Dean Hoffman writes:
On 8/10/20 12:33 PM, wrote:
Some cut.
Most things are rated at 100 PSI or so but stuff like pipes and valves
should be able to take much more than that. Even garden variety white
PVC is rated 480 PSI. Copper and galvanized, more than that.

That 480 psi must be a typo instead of a dummy attack.

Yeah, must be a typo. The piece of 1/2" schedule 40 PVC pipe
I have in my hand is printed with 600 PSI at 73 degrees Fahrenheit
(and a manufacturing date of 1988).

It goes down by size... Sch 40 is

1/2 600
3/4 480
1 450
1-1/4 370
1-1/2 330

The derating with temperature above 73 F goes down pretty quickly, too,
so for hot water @ 0.5 for 110 F it's starting down the road...at 120F
the derate factor is 0.4 and 0.2 at 140F.

That is why homes will be piped in CPVC that has better hot water
performance although PEX is taking over these days. I assume in some
mobbed up union states they still use copper but I seldom see it here.

PVC is not to be used for air piping; I assume because of impact damage?

Just the fear that if it bursts, little pieces will fly everywhere. I
ran galvanized in my shop but I had UV protected (RNC) run around
there for years. I really wanted someone like Myth busters to try this
but I couldn't get a bite. I even offered them some PVC that had been
out in the Florida sun for 25 years or so as a grape arbor.
I really think it is lawyers more than anything. Everyone knows a guy
who heard a story about a PVC pipe exploding but it is pretty hard to
track that guy down.

On Wed, 12 Aug 2020 21:15:26 -0400, posted for all of us to
digest...


On Wed, 12 Aug 2020 16:41:26 -0400, Tekkie®
wrote:


On Tue, 11 Aug 2020 13:05:03 -0400, posted for all of us to
digest...


On Mon, 10 Aug 2020 15:37:50 -0500, dpb wrote:

On 8/10/2020 2:50 PM, Scott Lurndal wrote:
Dean Hoffman writes:
On 8/10/20 12:33 PM, wrote:
Some cut.
Most things are rated at 100 PSI or so but stuff like pipes and valves
should be able to take much more than that. Even garden variety white
PVC is rated 480 PSI. Copper and galvanized, more than that.

That 480 psi must be a typo instead of a dummy attack.

Yeah, must be a typo. The piece of 1/2" schedule 40 PVC pipe
I have in my hand is printed with 600 PSI at 73 degrees Fahrenheit
(and a manufacturing date of 1988).

It goes down by size... Sch 40 is

1/2 600
3/4 480
1 450
1-1/4 370
1-1/2 330

The derating with temperature above 73 F goes down pretty quickly, too,
so for hot water @ 0.5 for 110 F it's starting down the road...at 120F
the derate factor is 0.4 and 0.2 at 140F.

That is why homes will be piped in CPVC that has better hot water
performance although PEX is taking over these days. I assume in some
mobbed up union states they still use copper but I seldom see it here.

PVC is not to be used for air piping; I assume because of impact damage?

Just the fear that if it bursts, little pieces will fly everywhere. I
ran galvanized in my shop but I had UV protected (RNC) run around
there for years. I really wanted someone like Myth busters to try this
but I couldn't get a bite. I even offered them some PVC that had been
out in the Florida sun for 25 years or so as a grape arbor.
I really think it is lawyers more than anything. Everyone knows a guy
who heard a story about a PVC pipe exploding but it is pretty hard to
track that guy down.

I wondered about that. Another urban legend. I looked at the site and it didn't
mention anything about it. I saw on one of those car shows that renovated auto
shops where they were using some blue coated (which looked like PVC) lines with
some sharkbite type fittings.

--
Tekkie

On Thu, 13 Aug 2020 15:40:22 -0400, Tekkie®
wrote:


On Wed, 12 Aug 2020 21:15:26 -0400, posted for all of us to
digest...


On Wed, 12 Aug 2020 16:41:26 -0400, Tekkie®
wrote:


On Tue, 11 Aug 2020 13:05:03 -0400, posted for all of us to
digest...


On Mon, 10 Aug 2020 15:37:50 -0500, dpb wrote:

On 8/10/2020 2:50 PM, Scott Lurndal wrote:
Dean Hoffman writes:
On 8/10/20 12:33 PM, wrote:
Some cut.
Most things are rated at 100 PSI or so but stuff like pipes and valves
should be able to take much more than that. Even garden variety white
PVC is rated 480 PSI. Copper and galvanized, more than that.

That 480 psi must be a typo instead of a dummy attack.

Yeah, must be a typo. The piece of 1/2" schedule 40 PVC pipe
I have in my hand is printed with 600 PSI at 73 degrees Fahrenheit
(and a manufacturing date of 1988).

It goes down by size... Sch 40 is

1/2 600
3/4 480
1 450
1-1/4 370
1-1/2 330

The derating with temperature above 73 F goes down pretty quickly, too,
so for hot water @ 0.5 for 110 F it's starting down the road...at 120F
the derate factor is 0.4 and 0.2 at 140F.

That is why homes will be piped in CPVC that has better hot water
performance although PEX is taking over these days. I assume in some
mobbed up union states they still use copper but I seldom see it here.

PVC is not to be used for air piping; I assume because of impact damage?

Just the fear that if it bursts, little pieces will fly everywhere. I
ran galvanized in my shop but I had UV protected (RNC) run around
there for years. I really wanted someone like Myth busters to try this
but I couldn't get a bite. I even offered them some PVC that had been
out in the Florida sun for 25 years or so as a grape arbor.
I really think it is lawyers more than anything. Everyone knows a guy
who heard a story about a PVC pipe exploding but it is pretty hard to
track that guy down.

I wondered about that. Another urban legend. I looked at the site and it didn't
mention anything about it. I saw on one of those car shows that renovated auto
shops where they were using some blue coated (which looked like PVC) lines with
some sharkbite type fittings.

It may have been PEX. I think that gets an OK from everyone but the
purists because it will just split open, not shatter.
Other than cost, the galvanized wasn't a big deal to do and it should
last forever. I ran 3/4" trunks and 1/2" drops to each outlet. I have
about 7 of them around the shop so you are never far from air with 3
hose reels. One on each side of the overhead door and one by the side
door. The only maintenance with them is the "O" rings every year or
two..

On Thu, 13 Aug 2020 16:48:42 -0400, posted for all of us to
digest...


On Thu, 13 Aug 2020 15:40:22 -0400, Tekkie®
wrote:


On Wed, 12 Aug 2020 21:15:26 -0400, posted for all of us to
digest...


On Wed, 12 Aug 2020 16:41:26 -0400, Tekkie®
wrote:


On Tue, 11 Aug 2020 13:05:03 -0400, posted for all of us to
digest...


On Mon, 10 Aug 2020 15:37:50 -0500, dpb wrote:

On 8/10/2020 2:50 PM, Scott Lurndal wrote:
Dean Hoffman writes:
On 8/10/20 12:33 PM, wrote:
Some cut.
Most things are rated at 100 PSI or so but stuff like pipes and valves
should be able to take much more than that. Even garden variety white
PVC is rated 480 PSI. Copper and galvanized, more than that.

That 480 psi must be a typo instead of a dummy attack.

Yeah, must be a typo. The piece of 1/2" schedule 40 PVC pipe
I have in my hand is printed with 600 PSI at 73 degrees Fahrenheit
(and a manufacturing date of 1988).

It goes down by size... Sch 40 is

1/2 600
3/4 480
1 450
1-1/4 370
1-1/2 330

The derating with temperature above 73 F goes down pretty quickly, too,
so for hot water @ 0.5 for 110 F it's starting down the road...at 120F
the derate factor is 0.4 and 0.2 at 140F.

That is why homes will be piped in CPVC that has better hot water
performance although PEX is taking over these days. I assume in some
mobbed up union states they still use copper but I seldom see it here.

PVC is not to be used for air piping; I assume because of impact damage?

Just the fear that if it bursts, little pieces will fly everywhere. I
ran galvanized in my shop but I had UV protected (RNC) run around
there for years. I really wanted someone like Myth busters to try this
but I couldn't get a bite. I even offered them some PVC that had been
out in the Florida sun for 25 years or so as a grape arbor.
I really think it is lawyers more than anything. Everyone knows a guy
who heard a story about a PVC pipe exploding but it is pretty hard to
track that guy down.

I wondered about that. Another urban legend. I looked at the site and it didn't
mention anything about it. I saw on one of those car shows that renovated auto
shops where they were using some blue coated (which looked like PVC) lines with
some sharkbite type fittings.

It may have been PEX. I think that gets an OK from everyone but the
purists because it will just split open, not shatter.
Other than cost, the galvanized wasn't a big deal to do and it should
last forever. I ran 3/4" trunks and 1/2" drops to each outlet. I have
about 7 of them around the shop so you are never far from air with 3
hose reels. One on each side of the overhead door and one by the side
door. The only maintenance with them is the "O" rings every year or
two..

My wife and I would entertain an offer to move in but you graciousness would go
to waste because I could not take advantage of it... ;-)

--
Tekkie

On Tuesday, August 11, 2020 at 1:06:35 PM UTC-4, wrote:
On Mon, 10 Aug 2020 22:00:17 -0500, Dean Hoffman
wrote:

On 8/10/20 2:50 PM, Scott Lurndal wrote:
Dean Hoffman writes:
On 8/10/20 12:33 PM, wrote:
Some cut.
Most things are rated at 100 PSI or so but stuff like pipes and valves
should be able to take much more than that. Even garden variety white
PVC is rated 480 PSI. Copper and galvanized, more than that.

That 480 psi must be a typo instead of a dummy attack.

Yeah, must be a typo. The piece of 1/2" schedule 40 PVC pipe
I have in my hand is printed with 600 PSI at 73 degrees Fahrenheit
(and a manufacturing date of 1988).

Well, I never would've imagined pvc pipe was that strong. I
wasn't planning on it but I learned something. I got curious if what
we'd always called 80 psi pipe was that.
I looked up the supplier to see.
https://www.kroyind.com/catalog/pdf/cat12.pdf#page=1

Even the thin wall PVC they use for sprinklers is 200 PSI.

Who uses PVC for sprinklers when poly is cheap, flexible, installs with
simple clamps instead of glue, etc? pvc is not used around NJ, that's
for sure.

On Thu, 13 Aug 2020 15:40:22 -0400, Tekkie®
wrote:


On Wed, 12 Aug 2020 21:15:26 -0400, posted for all of us to
digest...


On Wed, 12 Aug 2020 16:41:26 -0400, Tekkie®
wrote:


On Tue, 11 Aug 2020 13:05:03 -0400, posted for all of us to
digest...


On Mon, 10 Aug 2020 15:37:50 -0500, dpb wrote:

On 8/10/2020 2:50 PM, Scott Lurndal wrote:
Dean Hoffman writes:
On 8/10/20 12:33 PM, wrote:
Some cut.
Most things are rated at 100 PSI or so but stuff like pipes and valves
should be able to take much more than that. Even garden variety white
PVC is rated 480 PSI. Copper and galvanized, more than that.

That 480 psi must be a typo instead of a dummy attack.

Yeah, must be a typo. The piece of 1/2" schedule 40 PVC pipe
I have in my hand is printed with 600 PSI at 73 degrees Fahrenheit
(and a manufacturing date of 1988).

It goes down by size... Sch 40 is

1/2 600
3/4 480
1 450
1-1/4 370
1-1/2 330

The derating with temperature above 73 F goes down pretty quickly, too,
so for hot water @ 0.5 for 110 F it's starting down the road...at 120F
the derate factor is 0.4 and 0.2 at 140F.

That is why homes will be piped in CPVC that has better hot water
performance although PEX is taking over these days. I assume in some
mobbed up union states they still use copper but I seldom see it here.

PVC is not to be used for air piping; I assume because of impact damage?

Just the fear that if it bursts, little pieces will fly everywhere. I
ran galvanized in my shop but I had UV protected (RNC) run around
there for years. I really wanted someone like Myth busters to try this
but I couldn't get a bite. I even offered them some PVC that had been
out in the Florida sun for 25 years or so as a grape arbor.
I really think it is lawyers more than anything. Everyone knows a guy
who heard a story about a PVC pipe exploding but it is pretty hard to
track that guy down.

I wondered about that. Another urban legend. I looked at the site and it didn't
mention anything about it. I saw on one of those car shows that renovated auto
shops where they were using some blue coated (which looked like PVC) lines with
some sharkbite type fittings.
It might LOOK like PVC but it is PE (or possibly ABS or HDPE) - often
over (and under) aluminum. Rapidaire Fastpipe rigid as well as MaxLine
flexible are both aluminum core HDPE and DuraTec is PE-RT over
aluminum. RapidAir also makes a blue Nylon flex air line. AIr Brake
line is also made of Nylon or PE.

On Thu, 13 Aug 2020 15:19:47 -0700 (PDT), trader_4
wrote:

On Tuesday, August 11, 2020 at 1:06:35 PM UTC-4, wrote:
On Mon, 10 Aug 2020 22:00:17 -0500, Dean Hoffman
wrote:

On 8/10/20 2:50 PM, Scott Lurndal wrote:
Dean Hoffman writes:
On 8/10/20 12:33 PM, wrote:
Some cut.
Most things are rated at 100 PSI or so but stuff like pipes and valves
should be able to take much more than that. Even garden variety white
PVC is rated 480 PSI. Copper and galvanized, more than that.

That 480 psi must be a typo instead of a dummy attack.

Yeah, must be a typo. The piece of 1/2" schedule 40 PVC pipe
I have in my hand is printed with 600 PSI at 73 degrees Fahrenheit
(and a manufacturing date of 1988).

Well, I never would've imagined pvc pipe was that strong. I
wasn't planning on it but I learned something. I got curious if what
we'd always called 80 psi pipe was that.
I looked up the supplier to see.
https://www.kroyind.com/catalog/pdf/cat12.pdf#page=1

Even the thin wall PVC they use for sprinklers is 200 PSI.

Who uses PVC for sprinklers when poly is cheap, flexible, installs with
simple clamps instead of glue, etc? pvc is not used around NJ, that's
for sure.



Since the frost line is basically zero, sprinkler lines are usually
right under the sod and subject to damage. These days a reputable
sprinkler company might be using Sch 40. That might also be to make
them harder for the homeowner to fix tho so they get more back end
business. I do know the folks with sprinkler systems are always
screwing with them tho and that included the commercial operations my
wife managed. They had a guy and his helper who did nothing but
maintain irrigation on the golf course and he was a busy guy, She had
another guy who just did irrigation in the common areas but he usually
did have enough spare time to keep 40 toilets flushing.

On 8/12/2020 8:15 PM, wrote:
On Wed, 12 Aug 2020 16:41:26 -0400, Tekkie®
wrote:


On Tue, 11 Aug 2020 13:05:03 -0400, posted for all of us to
digest...


On Mon, 10 Aug 2020 15:37:50 -0500, dpb wrote:

On 8/10/2020 2:50 PM, Scott Lurndal wrote:
Dean Hoffman writes:
On 8/10/20 12:33 PM, wrote:
Some cut.
Most things are rated at 100 PSI or so but stuff like pipes and valves
should be able to take much more than that. Even garden variety white
PVC is rated 480 PSI. Copper and galvanized, more than that.

That 480 psi must be a typo instead of a dummy attack.

Yeah, must be a typo. The piece of 1/2" schedule 40 PVC pipe
I have in my hand is printed with 600 PSI at 73 degrees Fahrenheit
(and a manufacturing date of 1988).

It goes down by size... Sch 40 is

1/2 600
3/4 480
1 450
1-1/4 370
1-1/2 330

The derating with temperature above 73 F goes down pretty quickly, too,
so for hot water @ 0.5 for 110 F it's starting down the road...at 120F
the derate factor is 0.4 and 0.2 at 140F.

That is why homes will be piped in CPVC that has better hot water
performance although PEX is taking over these days. I assume in some
mobbed up union states they still use copper but I seldom see it here.

PVC is not to be used for air piping; I assume because of impact damage?

Just the fear that if it bursts, little pieces will fly everywhere. I
ran galvanized in my shop but I had UV protected (RNC) run around
there for years. I really wanted someone like Myth busters to try this
but I couldn't get a bite. I even offered them some PVC that had been
out in the Florida sun for 25 years or so as a grape arbor.
I really think it is lawyers more than anything. Everyone knows a guy
who heard a story about a PVC pipe exploding but it is pretty hard to
track that guy down.


A cabinet shop I worked at had the main air supply plumbed with sched
80 4" PVC . At some point someone impacted a section with a man cage
platform on the forklift . I was there the day it failed ... this air
line was about 12 or so feet up and all the work station drops came off
of it and when it let go it was like a cannon going off . Pieces of PVC
did indeed fly all over the shop , fortunately no one was hurt .
Everybody thought I was crazy because I was running toward while they
were all running away - I knew right away what was happening and that
the danger was over . Got the main valves shut off and that stopped all
the noise , needless to say everybody got sent home while we repaired
the busted pipe . Since I was production/assembly line supervisor I was
one of the chosen few who stayed and fixed it .
--
Snag

On 8/14/2020 2:37 PM, wrote:
Who uses PVC for sprinklers when poly is cheap, flexible, installs with
simple clamps instead of glue, etc? pvc is not used around NJ, that's
for sure.


Since the frost line is basically zero, sprinkler lines are usually
right under the sod and subject to damage. These days a reputable
sprinkler company might be using Sch 40. That might also be to make
them harder for the homeowner to fix tho so they get more back end
business. I do know the folks with sprinkler systems are always
screwing with them tho and that included the commercial operations my
wife managed. They had a guy and his helper who did nothing but
maintain irrigation on the golf course and he was a busy guy, She had
another guy who just did irrigation in the common areas but he usually
did have enough spare time to keep 40 toilets flushing.


We installed underground pvc sprinkers and they lasted about 5 years
before they had weather related breaks. Eventually, I abandoned the
underground pipes and began using just plain above ground 1/2" mainline
tubing w/1/4" sprinkler tubing. It's easier to fix when a branch or
winter storm snaps a sprinkler head. This past year I didn't have to
replace anything due to winter weather. I did add more sprinkler heads,
though, because I made more spaces for flowers.
--
Maggie

On Friday, August 14, 2020 at 3:37:49 PM UTC-4, wrote:
On Thu, 13 Aug 2020 15:19:47 -0700 (PDT), trader_4
wrote:

On Tuesday, August 11, 2020 at 1:06:35 PM UTC-4, wrote:
On Mon, 10 Aug 2020 22:00:17 -0500, Dean Hoffman
wrote:

On 8/10/20 2:50 PM, Scott Lurndal wrote:
Dean Hoffman writes:
On 8/10/20 12:33 PM, wrote:
Some cut.
Most things are rated at 100 PSI or so but stuff like pipes and valves
should be able to take much more than that. Even garden variety white
PVC is rated 480 PSI. Copper and galvanized, more than that.

That 480 psi must be a typo instead of a dummy attack.

Yeah, must be a typo. The piece of 1/2" schedule 40 PVC pipe
I have in my hand is printed with 600 PSI at 73 degrees Fahrenheit
(and a manufacturing date of 1988).

Well, I never would've imagined pvc pipe was that strong. I
wasn't planning on it but I learned something. I got curious if what
we'd always called 80 psi pipe was that.
I looked up the supplier to see.
https://www.kroyind.com/catalog/pdf/cat12.pdf#page=1

Even the thin wall PVC they use for sprinklers is 200 PSI.

Who uses PVC for sprinklers when poly is cheap, flexible, installs with
simple clamps instead of glue, etc? pvc is not used around NJ, that's
for sure.



Since the frost line is basically zero, sprinkler lines are usually
right under the sod and subject to damage.

Same here, they get winterized, run about 8" deep or so. Basically the
pipe is low enough to accommodate the head and a right angle fitting.



These days a reputable
sprinkler company might be using Sch 40. That might also be to make
them harder for the homeowner to fix tho so they get more back end
business. I do know the folks with sprinkler systems are always
screwing with them tho and that included the commercial operations my
wife managed. They had a guy and his helper who did nothing but
maintain irrigation on the golf course and he was a busy guy, She had
another guy who just did irrigation in the common areas but he usually
did have enough spare time to keep 40 toilets flushing.

One huge advantage with poly pipe for irrigation is that it can be pulled
with a machine that just leaves a small slit, no digging of a trench for
a pipe. They can pull 100 ft of it in a few minutes. That's a big labor
savings, far less of a mess too.

On Saturday, August 15, 2020 at 11:28:13 AM UTC-4, Muggles wrote:
On 8/14/2020 2:37 PM, wrote:
Who uses PVC for sprinklers when poly is cheap, flexible, installs with
simple clamps instead of glue, etc? pvc is not used around NJ, that's
for sure.


Since the frost line is basically zero, sprinkler lines are usually
right under the sod and subject to damage. These days a reputable
sprinkler company might be using Sch 40. That might also be to make
them harder for the homeowner to fix tho so they get more back end
business. I do know the folks with sprinkler systems are always
screwing with them tho and that included the commercial operations my
wife managed. They had a guy and his helper who did nothing but
maintain irrigation on the golf course and he was a busy guy, She had
another guy who just did irrigation in the common areas but he usually
did have enough spare time to keep 40 toilets flushing.


We installed underground pvc sprinkers and they lasted about 5 years
before they had weather related breaks. Eventually, I abandoned the
underground pipes and began using just plain above ground 1/2" mainline
tubing w/1/4" sprinkler tubing. It's easier to fix when a branch or
winter storm snaps a sprinkler head. This past year I didn't have to
replace anything due to winter weather. I did add more sprinkler heads,
though, because I made more spaces for flowers.
--
Maggie

Shows that you can even screw that up. I had a 7 zone system installed
25 years ago, it's still working fine. I have maybe one head a year on
average that needs to be replaced because it stops working. If you live
where it freezes, you're supposed to blow them out, stupid.

On Thu, 13 Aug 2020 21:26:03 -0400, Clare Snyder posted for all of us to
digest...


On Thu, 13 Aug 2020 15:40:22 -0400, Tekkie®
wrote:


On Wed, 12 Aug 2020 21:15:26 -0400, posted for all of us to
digest...


On Wed, 12 Aug 2020 16:41:26 -0400, Tekkie®
wrote:


On Tue, 11 Aug 2020 13:05:03 -0400, posted for all of us to
digest...


On Mon, 10 Aug 2020 15:37:50 -0500, dpb wrote:

On 8/10/2020 2:50 PM, Scott Lurndal wrote:
Dean Hoffman writes:
On 8/10/20 12:33 PM, wrote:
Some cut.
Most things are rated at 100 PSI or so but stuff like pipes and valves
should be able to take much more than that. Even garden variety white
PVC is rated 480 PSI. Copper and galvanized, more than that.

That 480 psi must be a typo instead of a dummy attack.

Yeah, must be a typo. The piece of 1/2" schedule 40 PVC pipe
I have in my hand is printed with 600 PSI at 73 degrees Fahrenheit
(and a manufacturing date of 1988).

It goes down by size... Sch 40 is

1/2 600
3/4 480
1 450
1-1/4 370
1-1/2 330

The derating with temperature above 73 F goes down pretty quickly, too,
so for hot water @ 0.5 for 110 F it's starting down the road...at 120F
the derate factor is 0.4 and 0.2 at 140F.

That is why homes will be piped in CPVC that has better hot water
performance although PEX is taking over these days. I assume in some
mobbed up union states they still use copper but I seldom see it here.

PVC is not to be used for air piping; I assume because of impact damage?

Just the fear that if it bursts, little pieces will fly everywhere. I
ran galvanized in my shop but I had UV protected (RNC) run around
there for years. I really wanted someone like Myth busters to try this
but I couldn't get a bite. I even offered them some PVC that had been
out in the Florida sun for 25 years or so as a grape arbor.
I really think it is lawyers more than anything. Everyone knows a guy
who heard a story about a PVC pipe exploding but it is pretty hard to
track that guy down.

I wondered about that. Another urban legend. I looked at the site and it didn't
mention anything about it. I saw on one of those car shows that renovated auto
shops where they were using some blue coated (which looked like PVC) lines with
some sharkbite type fittings.
It might LOOK like PVC but it is PE (or possibly ABS or HDPE) - often
over (and under) aluminum. Rapidaire Fastpipe rigid as well as MaxLine
flexible are both aluminum core HDPE and DuraTec is PE-RT over
aluminum. RapidAir also makes a blue Nylon flex air line. AIr Brake
line is also made of Nylon or PE.

Thanks for the info, looks are deceiving...

--
Tekkie

On 15/08/2020 16:28, Muggles wrote:
On 8/14/2020 2:37 PM, wrote:
Who uses PVC for sprinklers when poly is cheap, flexible, installs with
simple clamps instead of glue, etc? pvc is not used around NJ, that's
for sure.


Since the frost line is basically zero, sprinkler lines are usually
right under the sod and subject to damage. These days a reputable
sprinkler company might be using Sch 40. That might also be to make
them harder for the homeowner to fix tho so they get more back end
business. I do know the folks with sprinkler systems are always
screwing with them tho and that included the commercial operations my
wife managed. They had a guy and his helper who did nothing but
maintain irrigation on the golf course and he was a busy guy, She had
another guy who just did irrigation in the common areas but he usually
did have enough spare time to keep 40 toilets flushing.


We installed underground pvc sprinkers and they lasted about 5 years
before they had weather related breaks. Eventually, I abandoned the
underground pipes and began using just plain above ground 1/2" mainline
tubing w/1/4" sprinkler tubing. It's easier to fix when a branch or
winter storm snaps a sprinkler head. This past year I didn't have to
replace anything due to winter weather. I did add more sprinkler heads,
though, because I made more spaces for flowers.

Please send photographs of how your garden has matured! :-D

I thought you might like to review THIS post:-

http://al.howardknight.net/?ID=159741750800

Your comments will be welcome.

Warmest regards,

David

On 8/15/2020 1:45 PM, trader_4 wrote:
On Saturday, August 15, 2020 at 11:28:13 AM UTC-4, Muggles wrote:
On 8/14/2020 2:37 PM, wrote:
Who uses PVC for sprinklers when poly is cheap, flexible, installs with
simple clamps instead of glue, etc? pvc is not used around NJ, that's
for sure.


Since the frost line is basically zero, sprinkler lines are usually
right under the sod and subject to damage. These days a reputable
sprinkler company might be using Sch 40. That might also be to make
them harder for the homeowner to fix tho so they get more back end
business. I do know the folks with sprinkler systems are always
screwing with them tho and that included the commercial operations my
wife managed. They had a guy and his helper who did nothing but
maintain irrigation on the golf course and he was a busy guy, She had
another guy who just did irrigation in the common areas but he usually
did have enough spare time to keep 40 toilets flushing.


We installed underground pvc sprinkers and they lasted about 5 years
before they had weather related breaks. Eventually, I abandoned the
underground pipes and began using just plain above ground 1/2" mainline
tubing w/1/4" sprinkler tubing. It's easier to fix when a branch or
winter storm snaps a sprinkler head. This past year I didn't have to
replace anything due to winter weather. I did add more sprinkler heads,
though, because I made more spaces for flowers.


Shows that you can even screw that up.

PVC wears out, and it was installed just fine. We did the work on the
original, but I've done all the remaining work on the above group drip
irrigation system. It's highly adaptable, isn't expensive, and it can
be changed around very quickly when needed. I don't have to pay anyone
to work on it, ever.

I had a 7 zone system installed
25 years ago, it's still working fine. I have maybe one head a year on
average that needs to be replaced because it stops working. If you live
where it freezes, you're supposed to blow them out, stupid.


All the lines are open and blown out every fall. Breakage happens when
storms cause branches to fall onto sprinkler heads, heavy snow can do
the same thing. It's always a cheap fix in the spring and I don't have
to hire anyone to fix it, either. It's quite economical and easy to
design any number of sprinklers for whatever purpose I need.

--
Maggie

On 16/08/2020 22:36, Muggles wrote:
On 8/15/2020 1:45 PM, trader_4 wrote:
On Saturday, August 15, 2020 at 11:28:13 AM UTC-4, Muggles wrote:
On 8/14/2020 2:37 PM, wrote:
Who uses PVC for sprinklers when poly is cheap, flexible, installs with
simple clamps instead of glue, etc? pvc is not used around NJ, that's
for sure.


Since the frost line is basically zero, sprinkler lines are usually
right under the sod and subject to damage. These days a reputable
sprinkler company might be using Sch 40. That might also be to make
them harder for the homeowner to fix tho so they get more back end
business. I do know the folks with sprinkler systems are always
screwing with them tho and that included the commercial operations my
wife managed. They had a guy and his helper who did nothing but
maintain irrigation on the golf course and he was a busy guy, She had
another guy who just did irrigation in the common areas but he usually
did have enough spare time to keep 40 toilets flushing.


We installed underground pvc sprinkers and they lasted about 5 years
before they had weather related breaks. Eventually, I abandoned the
underground pipes and began using just plain above ground 1/2" mainline
tubing w/1/4" sprinkler tubing. It's easier to fix when a branch or
winter storm snaps a sprinkler head. This past year I didn't have to
replace anything due to winter weather. I did add more sprinkler heads,
though, because I made more spaces for flowers.


Shows that you can even screw that up.

PVC wears out, and it was installed just fine. We did the work on the
original, but I've done all the remaining work on the above group drip
irrigation system. It's highly adaptable, isn't expensive, and it can
be changed around very quickly when needed. I don't have to pay anyone
to work on it, ever.

I had a 7 zone system installed
25 years ago, it's still working fine. I have maybe one head a year on
average that needs to be replaced because it stops working. If you live
where it freezes, you're supposed to blow them out, stupid.


All the lines are open and blown out every fall. Breakage happens when
storms cause branches to fall onto sprinkler heads, heavy snow can do
the same thing. It's always a cheap fix in the spring and I don't have
to hire anyone to fix it, either. It's quite economical and easy to
design any number of sprinklers for whatever purpose I need.


MID

On Sun, 16 Aug 2020 16:36:41 -0500, Muggles
wrote:

On 8/15/2020 1:45 PM, trader_4 wrote:
On Saturday, August 15, 2020 at 11:28:13 AM UTC-4, Muggles wrote:
On 8/14/2020 2:37 PM, wrote:
Who uses PVC for sprinklers when poly is cheap, flexible, installs with
simple clamps instead of glue, etc? pvc is not used around NJ, that's
for sure.


Since the frost line is basically zero, sprinkler lines are usually
right under the sod and subject to damage. These days a reputable
sprinkler company might be using Sch 40. That might also be to make
them harder for the homeowner to fix tho so they get more back end
business. I do know the folks with sprinkler systems are always
screwing with them tho and that included the commercial operations my
wife managed. They had a guy and his helper who did nothing but
maintain irrigation on the golf course and he was a busy guy, She had
another guy who just did irrigation in the common areas but he usually
did have enough spare time to keep 40 toilets flushing.


We installed underground pvc sprinkers and they lasted about 5 years
before they had weather related breaks. Eventually, I abandoned the
underground pipes and began using just plain above ground 1/2" mainline
tubing w/1/4" sprinkler tubing. It's easier to fix when a branch or
winter storm snaps a sprinkler head. This past year I didn't have to
replace anything due to winter weather. I did add more sprinkler heads,
though, because I made more spaces for flowers.


Shows that you can even screw that up.

PVC wears out, and it was installed just fine. We did the work on the
original, but I've done all the remaining work on the above group drip
irrigation system. It's highly adaptable, isn't expensive, and it can
be changed around very quickly when needed. I don't have to pay anyone
to work on it, ever.

I had a 7 zone system installed
25 years ago, it's still working fine. I have maybe one head a year on
average that needs to be replaced because it stops working. If you live
where it freezes, you're supposed to blow them out, stupid.


All the lines are open and blown out every fall. Breakage happens when
storms cause branches to fall onto sprinkler heads, heavy snow can do
the same thing. It's always a cheap fix in the spring and I don't have
to hire anyone to fix it, either. It's quite economical and easy to
design any number of sprinklers for whatever purpose I need.

Ours are usually lawn mower damage. If those boys on the ZTR do a spin
right over a sprinkler head they break it and may damage the pipe
below. Just running over them with a truck can screw them up too. That
is usually the run close to the road and the homeowner can't even
complain because it isn't his property.