I am working on restoring one of my headlights that is a little cloudy.

I saw that kits contain different grades of sandpaper, so I bought some
800,1000, and 3000 grit.

I started with the 3000 since my lenses were not real bad.

Used a sprayer of water and went to work.

The water got dark, so it must have removed some material.

When it dried the lens was clearer, but it had small scratches on it.

I used some Nanowax and it filled a lot of the scratches, but it is only temporary.

I found it hard to believe that 3000 grit would leave any visible scratches.

I have found 5000,7000, and 8000 grit sandpaper.

Would one of those NOT leave visible scratches?

Thanks,
Andy

On Wednesday, February 26, 2020 at 8:56:59 PM UTC-5, A K wrote:
I am working on restoring one of my headlights that is a little cloudy.

I saw that kits contain different grades of sandpaper, so I bought some
800,1000, and 3000 grit.

I started with the 3000 since my lenses were not real bad.

Used a sprayer of water and went to work.

The water got dark, so it must have removed some material.

When it dried the lens was clearer, but it had small scratches on it.

I used some Nanowax and it filled a lot of the scratches, but it is only temporary.

I found it hard to believe that 3000 grit would leave any visible scratches.

I have found 5000,7000, and 8000 grit sandpaper.

Would one of those NOT leave visible scratches?

Thanks,
Andy

Just buy the 3m kit for $15. I think Walmart had it. You have to start with a coarse grit, remove all the oxidation layer and any scratches and work up in steps to fine. It works, when done they look really clear.

On 2/26/2020 7:56 PM, A K wrote:
I am working on restoring one of my headlights that is a little cloudy.

I saw that kits contain different grades of sandpaper, so I bought some
800,1000, and 3000 grit.

I started with the 3000 since my lenses were not real bad.

Used a sprayer of water and went to work.

The water got dark, so it must have removed some material.

When it dried the lens was clearer, but it had small scratches on it.

I used some Nanowax and it filled a lot of the scratches, but it is only temporary.

I found it hard to believe that 3000 grit would leave any visible scratches.

I have found 5000,7000, and 8000 grit sandpaper.

Would one of those NOT leave visible scratches?

Thanks,
Andy

Â* It's not the sandpaper , it's contaminants on the paper . Do the
sanding under running water and follow it up with 3M Finesse-it
polishing compound .

--
Snag
Yes , I'm old
and crochety - and armed .
Get outta my woods !

On 2/26/2020 9:27 PM, Terry Coombs wrote:
On 2/26/2020 7:56 PM, A K wrote:
I am working on restoring one of my headlights that is a little cloudy.

I saw that kits contain different grades of sandpaper, so I bought some
800,1000, and 3000 grit.

I started with the 3000 since my lenses were not real bad.

Used a sprayer of water and went to work.

The water got dark, so it must have removed some material.

When it dried the lens was clearer, but it had small scratches on it.

I used some Nanowax and it filled a lot of the scratches, but it is
only temporary.

I found it hard to believe that 3000 grit would leave any visible
scratches.

I have found 5000,7000, and 8000 grit sandpaper.

Would one of those NOT leave visible scratches?

Thanks,
Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â* Andy

Â* It's not the sandpaper , it's contaminants on the paper . Do the
sanding under running water and follow it up with 3M Finesse-it
polishing compound .

Agreed. 3000 grit should not display scratches. Constant water flow or a
heavy amount of water helps keep debris from sticking to the paper and
scratching the sanded material. Of course you can still go higher grit
for smoother/clearer finish, but if the same contaminants are present,
you'll have the same scratch results. 3000 should suffice, then a good
polish compound after.

On Wed, 26 Feb 2020 22:09:08 -0500, Hawk wrote:

On 2/26/2020 9:27 PM, Terry Coombs wrote:
On 2/26/2020 7:56 PM, A K wrote:
I am working on restoring one of my headlights that is a little cloudy.

I saw that kits contain different grades of sandpaper, so I bought some
800,1000, and 3000 grit.

I started with the 3000 since my lenses were not real bad.

Used a sprayer of water and went to work.

The water got dark, so it must have removed some material.

When it dried the lens was clearer, but it had small scratches on it.

I used some Nanowax and it filled a lot of the scratches, but it is
only temporary.

I found it hard to believe that 3000 grit would leave any visible
scratches.

I have found 5000,7000, and 8000 grit sandpaper.

Would one of those NOT leave visible scratches?

Thanks,
******** Andy

* It's not the sandpaper , it's contaminants on the paper . Do the
sanding under running water and follow it up with 3M Finesse-it
polishing compound .

Agreed. 3000 grit should not display scratches. Constant water flow or a
heavy amount of water helps keep debris from sticking to the paper and
scratching the sanded material. Of course you can still go higher grit
for smoother/clearer finish, but if the same contaminants are present,
you'll have the same scratch results. 3000 should suffice, then a good
polish compound after.
Or instead of compound, just a good coat of clear - flows out
virtually perfectly clear

On Wednesday, February 26, 2020 at 9:49:41 PM UTC-6, Clare Snyder wrote:
On Wed, 26 Feb 2020 22:09:08 -0500, Hawk wrote:

On 2/26/2020 9:27 PM, Terry Coombs wrote:
On 2/26/2020 7:56 PM, A K wrote:
I am working on restoring one of my headlights that is a little cloudy.

I saw that kits contain different grades of sandpaper, so I bought some
800,1000, and 3000 grit.

I started with the 3000 since my lenses were not real bad.

Used a sprayer of water and went to work.

The water got dark, so it must have removed some material.

When it dried the lens was clearer, but it had small scratches on it.

I used some Nanowax and it filled a lot of the scratches, but it is
only temporary.

I found it hard to believe that 3000 grit would leave any visible
scratches.

I have found 5000,7000, and 8000 grit sandpaper.

Would one of those NOT leave visible scratches?

Thanks,
Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â* Andy

Â* It's not the sandpaper , it's contaminants on the paper . Do the
sanding under running water and follow it up with 3M Finesse-it
polishing compound .

Agreed. 3000 grit should not display scratches. Constant water flow or a
heavy amount of water helps keep debris from sticking to the paper and
scratching the sanded material. Of course you can still go higher grit
for smoother/clearer finish, but if the same contaminants are present,
you'll have the same scratch results. 3000 should suffice, then a good
polish compound after.
Or instead of compound, just a good coat of clear - flows out
virtually perfectly clear

Thanks for everyone's help.

Andy

On 2/27/2020 9:23 AM, A K wrote:
On Wednesday, February 26, 2020 at 9:49:41 PM UTC-6, Clare Snyder wrote:
On Wed, 26 Feb 2020 22:09:08 -0500, Hawk wrote:

On 2/26/2020 9:27 PM, Terry Coombs wrote:
On 2/26/2020 7:56 PM, A K wrote:
I am working on restoring one of my headlights that is a little cloudy.

I saw that kits contain different grades of sandpaper, so I bought some
800,1000, and 3000 grit.

I started with the 3000 since my lenses were not real bad.

Used a sprayer of water and went to work.

The water got dark, so it must have removed some material.

When it dried the lens was clearer, but it had small scratches on it.

I used some Nanowax and it filled a lot of the scratches, but it is
only temporary.

I found it hard to believe that 3000 grit would leave any visible
scratches.

I have found 5000,7000, and 8000 grit sandpaper.

Would one of those NOT leave visible scratches?

Thanks,
Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â* Andy

Â* It's not the sandpaper , it's contaminants on the paper . Do the
sanding under running water and follow it up with 3M Finesse-it
polishing compound .

Agreed. 3000 grit should not display scratches. Constant water flow or a
heavy amount of water helps keep debris from sticking to the paper and
scratching the sanded material. Of course you can still go higher grit
for smoother/clearer finish, but if the same contaminants are present,
you'll have the same scratch results. 3000 should suffice, then a good
polish compound after.
Or instead of compound, just a good coat of clear - flows out
virtually perfectly clear

Thanks for everyone's help.

Andy

You can even use toothpaste to polish plastic lenses. Probably best to
use a kit that has polish and a finish to help maintain clarity whose
lose is due to grit and sunlight. Scotty Kilmer talks about cheap
plastics in German cars and appears that they are amongst those using
lenses without anti UV and scratch coatings.

On Thursday, February 27, 2020 at 11:20:18 AM UTC-6, Frank wrote:
On 2/27/2020 9:23 AM, A K wrote:
On Wednesday, February 26, 2020 at 9:49:41 PM UTC-6, Clare Snyder wrote:
On Wed, 26 Feb 2020 22:09:08 -0500, Hawk wrote:

On 2/26/2020 9:27 PM, Terry Coombs wrote:
On 2/26/2020 7:56 PM, A K wrote:
I am working on restoring one of my headlights that is a little cloudy.

I saw that kits contain different grades of sandpaper, so I bought some
800,1000, and 3000 grit.

I started with the 3000 since my lenses were not real bad.

Used a sprayer of water and went to work.

The water got dark, so it must have removed some material.

When it dried the lens was clearer, but it had small scratches on it.

On 2/27/2020 12:25 PM, A K wrote:
On Thursday, February 27, 2020 at 11:20:18 AM UTC-6, Frank wrote:
On 2/27/2020 9:23 AM, A K wrote:
On Wednesday, February 26, 2020 at 9:49:41 PM UTC-6, Clare Snyder wrote:
On Wed, 26 Feb 2020 22:09:08 -0500, Hawk wrote:

On 2/26/2020 9:27 PM, Terry Coombs wrote:
On 2/26/2020 7:56 PM, A K wrote:
I am working on restoring one of my headlights that is a little cloudy.

I saw that kits contain different grades of sandpaper, so I bought some
800,1000, and 3000 grit.

I started with the 3000 since my lenses were not real bad.

Used a sprayer of water and went to work.

The water got dark, so it must have removed some material.

When it dried the lens was clearer, but it had small scratches on it.

I used some Nanowax and it filled a lot of the scratches, but it is
only temporary.

I found it hard to believe that 3000 grit would leave any visible
scratches.

I have found 5000,7000, and 8000 grit sandpaper.

Would one of those NOT leave visible scratches?

Thanks,
Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â*Â* Andy

Â* It's not the sandpaper , it's contaminants on the paper . Do the
sanding under running water and follow it up with 3M Finesse-it
polishing compound .

Agreed. 3000 grit should not display scratches. Constant water flow or a
heavy amount of water helps keep debris from sticking to the paper and
scratching the sanded material. Of course you can still go higher grit
for smoother/clearer finish, but if the same contaminants are present,
you'll have the same scratch results. 3000 should suffice, then a good
polish compound after.
Or instead of compound, just a good coat of clear - flows out
virtually perfectly clear

Thanks for everyone's help.

Andy

You can even use toothpaste to polish plastic lenses. Probably best to
use a kit that has polish and a finish to help maintain clarity whose
lose is due to grit and sunlight. Scotty Kilmer talks about cheap
plastics in German cars and appears that they are amongst those using
lenses without anti UV and scratch coatings.

I used Meguires Rubbing compound. It covered the scratches.

Andy


In the past I was familiar with the formulas for scratch resistant
acrylics. I think most of the hazing is due to grit like sand dust in
the air and assume the kits supplied to restore lenses contain something
like this.

I had an old Seiko watch with an acrylic lens and used toothpaste on it.

On Thursday, February 27, 2020 at 12:25:58 PM UTC-5, A K wrote:
I used Meguires Rubbing compound. It covered the scratches.

Andy

I used Meguires on an older model Volvo.

Some improvement, not enough to be worth the effort, and it didn't last.

If the cloudiness is deep enough you'll never get enough off to make much difference.

Clare Snyder wrote:
On Wed, 26 Feb 2020 22:09:08 -0500, Hawk wrote:

On 2/26/2020 9:27 PM, Terry Coombs wrote:
On 2/26/2020 7:56 PM, A K wrote:
I am working on restoring one of my headlights that is a little cloudy.

I saw that kits contain different grades of sandpaper, so I bought some
800,1000, and 3000 grit.

I started with the 3000 since my lenses were not real bad.

Used a sprayer of water and went to work.

The water got dark, so it must have removed some material.

When it dried the lens was clearer, but it had small scratches on it.

I used some Nanowax and it filled a lot of the scratches, but it is
only temporary.

I found it hard to believe that 3000 grit would leave any visible
scratches.

I have found 5000,7000, and 8000 grit sandpaper.

Would one of those NOT leave visible scratches?

Thanks,
Andy

It's not the sandpaper , it's contaminants on the paper . Do the
sanding under running water and follow it up with 3M Finesse-it
polishing compound .

Agreed. 3000 grit should not display scratches. Constant water flow or a
heavy amount of water helps keep debris from sticking to the paper and
scratching the sanded material. Of course you can still go higher grit
for smoother/clearer finish, but if the same contaminants are present,
you'll have the same scratch results. 3000 should suffice, then a good
polish compound after.
Or instead of compound, just a good coat of clear - flows out
virtually perfectly clear

I plan on a clear coat, but an application of Seafoam lasts about a month.

Greg

DEET bug spray.

On 2/28/2020 11:31 AM, Thomas wrote:
DEET bug spray.

I would be reticent to try this. Acrylic is soluble in many organic
solvents which could craze or otherwise ruin the lens.

On Wed, 26 Feb 2020 22:49:38 -0500, Clare Snyder wrote:


Or instead of compound, just a good coat of clear

Clear, what?

--
croy

croy wrote on 2/28/2020 :
On Wed, 26 Feb 2020 22:49:38 -0500, Clare Snyder wrote:


Or instead of compound, just a good coat of clear

Clear, what?

Clear coat I think Clare was clear.

On 02/28/2020 09:49 AM, Frank wrote:
On 2/28/2020 11:31 AM, Thomas wrote:
DEET bug spray.

I would be reticent to try this. Acrylic is soluble in many organic
solvents which could craze or otherwise ruin the lens.

Get some of the good old GI bug juice and it will melt the front end off
the car along with the headlights.

On Fri, 28 Feb 2020 16:34:22 -0800, croy
wrote:

On Wed, 26 Feb 2020 22:49:38 -0500, Clare Snyder wrote:


Or instead of compound, just a good coat of clear

Clear, what?
clear laquer or any other clear non-yellowing finish

In alt.home.repair, on Thu, 27 Feb 2020 17:40:43 -0600, dpb
wrote:

On 2/27/2020 3:22 PM, TimR wrote:
On Thursday, February 27, 2020 at 12:25:58 PM UTC-5, A K wrote:
I used Meguires Rubbing compound. It covered the scratches.

Andy

I used Meguires on an older model Volvo.

Some improvement, not enough to be worth the effort, and it didn't last.

If the cloudiness is deep enough you'll never get enough off to make much difference.

My experience universally...

A guy called to me from a nearby car.

Because my right tire has been low a few times, I thought that's what he
was warning me about.

But no, so since I have a scratch on the left fender, I thought he was
offering to fix that, even though he was on the right side of the car.

But no, he was offering to polish my headlight plastic. He wanted $100
to do one side, and iiuc $400 to do the whole front, but the only thing
I have in the front are the headlights and little fog lights and there
is never any fog.

So I'm thinking about doing it myself and paying me $200. When warm
weather comes.

On 02/28/2020 09:28 PM, micky wrote:
In alt.home.repair, on Thu, 27 Feb 2020 17:40:43 -0600, dpb
wrote:

On 2/27/2020 3:22 PM, TimR wrote:
On Thursday, February 27, 2020 at 12:25:58 PM UTC-5, A K wrote:
I used Meguires Rubbing compound. It covered the scratches.

Andy

I used Meguires on an older model Volvo.

Some improvement, not enough to be worth the effort, and it didn't last.

If the cloudiness is deep enough you'll never get enough off to make much difference.

My experience universally...

A guy called to me from a nearby car.

Because my right tire has been low a few times, I thought that's what he
was warning me about.

But no, so since I have a scratch on the left fender, I thought he was
offering to fix that, even though he was on the right side of the car.

But no, he was offering to polish my headlight plastic. He wanted $100
to do one side, and iiuc $400 to do the whole front, but the only thing
I have in the front are the headlights and little fog lights and there
is never any fog.

So I'm thinking about doing it myself and paying me $200. When warm
weather comes.



If you're serious, check the price for the assembly for your car. Mine
is $110 for the pair and replacement isn't that difficult. It seems
wasteful but from some of the comments from previous threads the polish
jobs don't hold up that well.

On Fri, 28 Feb 2020 23:06:08 -0700, lowbrowman, the endlessly driveling,
troll-feeding, senile idiot, blabbered again:


If you're serious, check the price for the assembly for your car. Mine
is $110 for the pair and replacement isn't that difficult.

You mean that's your price for sucking off a pair? I thought you do it for
free, lowbrowman?

On Fri, 28 Feb 2020 19:42:26 -0700, lowbrowman, the endlessly driveling,
troll-feeding, senile idiot, blabbered again:


Get some of the good old GI bug juice and it will melt the front end off
the car along with the headlights.

Something seems to have melted in your head already long time ago, blowman!
BG

On Saturday, February 29, 2020 at 1:05:41 AM UTC-5, rbowman wrote:
On 02/28/2020 09:28 PM, micky wrote:
In alt.home.repair, on Thu, 27 Feb 2020 17:40:43 -0600, dpb
wrote:

On 2/27/2020 3:22 PM, TimR wrote:
On Thursday, February 27, 2020 at 12:25:58 PM UTC-5, A K wrote:
I used Meguires Rubbing compound. It covered the scratches.

Andy

I used Meguires on an older model Volvo.

Some improvement, not enough to be worth the effort, and it didn't last.

If the cloudiness is deep enough you'll never get enough off to make much difference.

My experience universally...

A guy called to me from a nearby car.

Because my right tire has been low a few times, I thought that's what he
was warning me about.

But no, so since I have a scratch on the left fender, I thought he was
offering to fix that, even though he was on the right side of the car.

But no, he was offering to polish my headlight plastic. He wanted $100
to do one side, and iiuc $400 to do the whole front, but the only thing
I have in the front are the headlights and little fog lights and there
is never any fog.

So I'm thinking about doing it myself and paying me $200. When warm
weather comes.



If you're serious, check the price for the assembly for your car. Mine
is $110 for the pair and replacement isn't that difficult. It seems
wasteful but from some of the comments from previous threads the polish
jobs don't hold up that well.

3M kit worked perfectly for me, I've used it 3 times, two different
vehicles. Came out very clear, 95% improvement, lasted probably 5
years, for $15. They include the buffing wheel attachment for a drill.

On 2/28/2020 9:58 PM, Clare Snyder wrote:
On Fri, 28 Feb 2020 16:34:22 -0800, croy
wrote:

On Wed, 26 Feb 2020 22:49:38 -0500, Clare Snyder wrote:


Or instead of compound, just a good coat of clear

Clear, what?
clear laquer or any other clear non-yellowing finish


Nobody discloses the composition of their headlight finishes and I know
there are numerous patented substances. I would probably best trust one
from a knowledgeable company like 3M.

On Fri, 28 Feb 2020 23:06:08 -0700, rbowman
wrote:

On 02/28/2020 09:28 PM, micky wrote:
In alt.home.repair, on Thu, 27 Feb 2020 17:40:43 -0600, dpb
wrote:

On 2/27/2020 3:22 PM, TimR wrote:
On Thursday, February 27, 2020 at 12:25:58 PM UTC-5, A K wrote:
I used Meguires Rubbing compound. It covered the scratches.

Andy

I used Meguires on an older model Volvo.

Some improvement, not enough to be worth the effort, and it didn't last.

If the cloudiness is deep enough you'll never get enough off to make much difference.

My experience universally...

A guy called to me from a nearby car.

Because my right tire has been low a few times, I thought that's what he
was warning me about.

But no, so since I have a scratch on the left fender, I thought he was
offering to fix that, even though he was on the right side of the car.

But no, he was offering to polish my headlight plastic. He wanted $100
to do one side, and iiuc $400 to do the whole front, but the only thing
I have in the front are the headlights and little fog lights and there
is never any fog.

So I'm thinking about doing it myself and paying me $200. When warm
weather comes.



If you're serious, check the price for the assembly for your car. Mine
is $110 for the pair and replacement isn't that difficult. It seems
wasteful but from some of the comments from previous threads the polish
jobs don't hold up that well.
Nor do many of the "third party" or "aftermarket" replacements. Many
just plain do not fit properly (are difficult or impossible to
properly aim, for instance) - many leak, and many do not stand up
well to UV and/or Ozone. Also, many scratch easily -
So, you pay your money and you take your chances.

On Sat, 29 Feb 2020 07:05:53 -0800 (PST), trader_4
wrote:

On Saturday, February 29, 2020 at 1:05:41 AM UTC-5, rbowman wrote:
On 02/28/2020 09:28 PM, micky wrote:
In alt.home.repair, on Thu, 27 Feb 2020 17:40:43 -0600, dpb
wrote:

On 2/27/2020 3:22 PM, TimR wrote:
On Thursday, February 27, 2020 at 12:25:58 PM UTC-5, A K wrote:
I used Meguires Rubbing compound. It covered the scratches.

Andy

I used Meguires on an older model Volvo.

Some improvement, not enough to be worth the effort, and it didn't last.

If the cloudiness is deep enough you'll never get enough off to make much difference.

My experience universally...

A guy called to me from a nearby car.

Because my right tire has been low a few times, I thought that's what he
was warning me about.

But no, so since I have a scratch on the left fender, I thought he was
offering to fix that, even though he was on the right side of the car.

But no, he was offering to polish my headlight plastic. He wanted $100
to do one side, and iiuc $400 to do the whole front, but the only thing
I have in the front are the headlights and little fog lights and there
is never any fog.

So I'm thinking about doing it myself and paying me $200. When warm
weather comes.



If you're serious, check the price for the assembly for your car. Mine
is $110 for the pair and replacement isn't that difficult. It seems
wasteful but from some of the comments from previous threads the polish
jobs don't hold up that well.

3M kit worked perfectly for me, I've used it 3 times, two different
vehicles. Came out very clear, 95% improvement, lasted probably 5
years, for $15. They include the buffing wheel attachment for a drill.

I used a 3M kit on a 2002 Toyota a few years ago, with great success. I
sold the car about a year after that so I don't know how long the fix would
have lasted.

On 2/29/2020 6:11 PM, Clare Snyder wrote:
....

Nor do many of the "third party" or "aftermarket" replacements. Many
just plain do not fit properly (are difficult or impossible to
properly aim, for instance) - many leak, and many do not stand up
well to UV and/or Ozone. Also, many scratch easily -
So, you pay your money and you take your chances.

All the above other than perhaps the aiming can well be true w/ the OEM
versions, too, ime...

Thread redux of some couple months back on "Where, oh where did my glass
lens covers go..."

--

On Sunday, March 1, 2020 at 12:27:39 AM UTC-5, Jim Joyce wrote:
On Sat, 29 Feb 2020 07:05:53 -0800 (PST), trader_4
wrote:

On Saturday, February 29, 2020 at 1:05:41 AM UTC-5, rbowman wrote:
On 02/28/2020 09:28 PM, micky wrote:
In alt.home.repair, on Thu, 27 Feb 2020 17:40:43 -0600, dpb
wrote:

On 2/27/2020 3:22 PM, TimR wrote:
On Thursday, February 27, 2020 at 12:25:58 PM UTC-5, A K wrote:
I used Meguires Rubbing compound. It covered the scratches.

Andy

I used Meguires on an older model Volvo.

Some improvement, not enough to be worth the effort, and it didn't last.

If the cloudiness is deep enough you'll never get enough off to make much difference.

My experience universally...

A guy called to me from a nearby car.

Because my right tire has been low a few times, I thought that's what he
was warning me about.

But no, so since I have a scratch on the left fender, I thought he was
offering to fix that, even though he was on the right side of the car.

But no, he was offering to polish my headlight plastic. He wanted $100
to do one side, and iiuc $400 to do the whole front, but the only thing
I have in the front are the headlights and little fog lights and there
is never any fog.

So I'm thinking about doing it myself and paying me $200. When warm
weather comes.



If you're serious, check the price for the assembly for your car. Mine
is $110 for the pair and replacement isn't that difficult. It seems
wasteful but from some of the comments from previous threads the polish
jobs don't hold up that well.

3M kit worked perfectly for me, I've used it 3 times, two different
vehicles. Came out very clear, 95% improvement, lasted probably 5
years, for $15. They include the buffing wheel attachment for a drill.

I used a 3M kit on a 2002 Toyota a few years ago, with great success. I
sold the car about a year after that so I don't know how long the fix would
have lasted.

The 5 year number is for them to get fairly cloudy again. If you want to keep
them close to clear, maybe every 3 years. They also have a variety of
products to put on every month or so to help keep them protected. I have
one, but can't seem to remember to use it.