I want to run a 20amp treadmill on a 30amp outlet. Can I just use an adapter like this and get on with it?

https://www.homedepot.com/p/AC-WORKS...0520/301828753

Thanks, friends.

In article ,
says...
want to run a 20amp treadmill on a 30amp outlet. Can I just use an adapter like this and get on with it?

https://www.homedepot.com/p/AC-WORKS...0520/301828753



That adapter seems to take the 240 volt outlet and just use one leg of
it so you can plug a 120 volt device (usually a small camper or RV ) in
to it.

If your treadmill runs off 120 volts and uses 30 or less amps , the
adapter should work fine.

If the treadmill runs off 240 volts, then no. However I doubt they
would put what seems to be a 120 volt plug on a 240 volt device.

On Saturday, February 22, 2020 at 2:07:27 PM UTC-6, Ralph Mowery wrote:
In article ,
says...
want to run a 20amp treadmill on a 30amp outlet. Can I just use an adapter like this and get on with it?

https://www.homedepot.com/p/AC-WORKS...0520/301828753



That adapter seems to take the 240 volt outlet and just use one leg of
it so you can plug a 120 volt device (usually a small camper or RV ) in
to it.

If your treadmill runs off 120 volts and uses 30 or less amps , the
adapter should work fine.

If the treadmill runs off 240 volts, then no. However I doubt they
would put what seems to be a 120 volt plug on a 240 volt device.

Thanks, Ralph!

The treadmill tag states:

INPUT 120Voc/60Hz
CURRENT 17 A

Sounds like I'm in business.

On 2/22/2020 2:57 PM, Michael Wilson wrote:
I want to run a 20amp treadmill on a 30amp outlet. Can I just use an adapter like this and get on with it?

https://www.homedepot.com/p/AC-WORKS...0520/301828753

Thanks, friends.

You didn't say if your 30 amp outlet is providing 120v or 220/240v but
most likely, it's 220/240v. I find the description on the web site in
your link ambiguous. It's described as an "adapter", not a splitter. I
use adapters when I travel abroad so I can use my dual voltage chargers
and shaver (with North American 120v plugs) in another country's
220/240v socket. Those adapters don't change the voltage, just match a
bunch of round holes to the flat blades on my plugs. Are you sure that
the adapter you cite doesn't connect the two hot sides of the 220 outlet
to the two flat blade sockets on the female side of the adapter and the
neutral from the 220 outlet to the round hole on the female side of the
adapter?

Chances are that your assumption is correct. But I would plug the
adapter into the 30 amp socket and check the voltage across the
adapter's two female slots before connecting or turning on something as
expensive as a treadmill just to make sure your assumption (that only
one side of the 220 source is going to the adapter's female side) is
correct.

In article ,
says...
hances are that your assumption is correct. But I would plug the
adapter into the 30 amp socket and check the voltage across the
adapter's two female slots before connecting or turning on something as
expensive as a treadmill just to make sure your assumption (that only
one side of the 220 source is going to the adapter's female side) is
correct.



Yes, if nothing else, just plug in a standard lamp with a 120 volt bulb
in it. One of the older filament ones. If the bulb burns very bright
and does pops out in less than a minute it is probably a 240 volt
output, but I doubt it.

Thanks for all your help with this! The outlet states: 125/250 V. NEMA 10/30.

On 2/22/2020 4:31 PM, Michael Wilson wrote:
Thanks for all your help with this! The outlet states: 125/250 V. NEMA 10/30.

I'm not questioning the safety rating of the outlet. I'm questioning
whether that outlet is supplying 120 or 220/240 volts. And you can't
tell just by examining what it is rated for.

The reason that type of outlet is rated for 250v is that it is commonly
used to supply power for electric dryers, ovens, ranges, and other high
wattage appliances that are engineered to use the 220/240 supply voltage
(yes, including use in countries that use 120v for almost all other
electrical equipment).

On Saturday, February 22, 2020 at 4:11:25 PM UTC-5, Peter wrote:
On 2/22/2020 2:57 PM, Michael Wilson wrote:
I want to run a 20amp treadmill on a 30amp outlet. Can I just use an adapter like this and get on with it?

https://www.homedepot.com/p/AC-WORKS...0520/301828753

Thanks, friends.

You didn't say if your 30 amp outlet is providing 120v or 220/240v but
most likely, it's 220/240v. I find the description on the web site in
your link ambiguous. It's described as an "adapter", not a splitter. I
use adapters when I travel abroad so I can use my dual voltage chargers
and shaver (with North American 120v plugs) in another country's
220/240v socket. Those adapters don't change the voltage, just match a
bunch of round holes to the flat blades on my plugs. Are you sure that
the adapter you cite doesn't connect the two hot sides of the 220 outlet
to the two flat blade sockets on the female side of the adapter and the
neutral from the 220 outlet to the round hole on the female side of the
adapter?

Chances are that your assumption is correct. But I would plug the
adapter into the 30 amp socket and check the voltage across the
adapter's two female slots before connecting or turning on something as
expensive as a treadmill just to make sure your assumption (that only
one side of the 220 source is going to the adapter's female side) is
correct.

There is nothing ambiguous about the description. It clearly describes
it as a 120 volt 15/20A adapter, that's what the receptacle shown is.
There is no 240V anything that looks like that, for obvious reasons.
And nothing mysterious there, it's a 4 wire plug on the other side,
so using 3 of those connections it can supply 120V. It's specifically
for what the OP wants, using a 240V 4 wire receptacle to be able to plug in
a 120V load.

On 2/23/20 7:24 AM, Peter wrote:
On 2/22/2020 4:31 PM, Michael Wilson wrote:
Thanks for all your help with this!* The outlet states: 125/250 V.
NEMA 10/30.

I'm not questioning the safety rating of the outlet.* I'm questioning
whether that outlet is supplying 120 or 220/240 volts.* And you can't
tell just by examining what it is rated for.

The reason that type of outlet is rated for 250v is that it is commonly
used to supply power for electric dryers, ovens, ranges, and other high
wattage appliances that are engineered to use the 220/240 supply voltage
(yes, including use in countries that use 120v for almost all other
electrical equipment).


One of the pictures shows the male end marked as 125/250 volt
with four prongs. The female end is marked as 125 volt with three
openings. The connector loses one hot leg in the transition.

On Sun, 23 Feb 2020 08:24:48 -0500, Peter
wrote:

On 2/22/2020 4:31 PM, Michael Wilson wrote:
Thanks for all your help with this! The outlet states: 125/250 V. NEMA 10/30.

I'm not questioning the safety rating of the outlet. I'm questioning
whether that outlet is supplying 120 or 220/240 volts. And you can't
tell just by examining what it is rated for.

The reason that type of outlet is rated for 250v is that it is commonly
used to supply power for electric dryers, ovens, ranges, and other high
wattage appliances that are engineered to use the 220/240 supply voltage
(yes, including use in countries that use 120v for almost all other
electrical equipment).

That is why NEMA standardizes these plugs.

In article ,
says...

I'm not questioning the safety rating of the outlet. I'm questioning
whether that outlet is supplying 120 or 220/240 volts. And you can't
tell just by examining what it is rated for.

The reason that type of outlet is rated for 250v is that it is commonly
used to supply power for electric dryers, ovens, ranges, and other high
wattage appliances that are engineered to use the 220/240 supply voltage
(yes, including use in countries that use 120v for almost all other
electrical equipment).

That is why NEMA standardizes these plugs.



Yes, there are NEMA standards.

With all the stuff coming into the US from China and sometimes other
countries you never know what they may send into the US.

Where I worked we had some big temperature controlled heaters. They ran
on 480 volts 3 phase and anywhere from 10 to 200 amps. There was a big
building project and another bank of heates were installed. While
setting they up we could not get the high end to reach anywhere the 480
volts. Come to find out the equipment was sent in as 380 volt devices.
I don't know what country uses that.

On another note everything that had the 480 volt disconnects green ment
that the breaker was supplying power and red ment it was not. Then the
European stuff came in and their idea was red ment the breaker was on
and it was dangerous to go in the box and green ment the breaker was off
and it was safe. Exectally backwards.

I don't remember the colors now,but even the 120 volt replacement cords
had blue and brown wires instead of the more normal black and white we
use in the US.

On Sun, 23 Feb 2020 10:23:06 -0500, Ralph Mowery
wrote:

In article ,
says...

I'm not questioning the safety rating of the outlet. I'm questioning
whether that outlet is supplying 120 or 220/240 volts. And you can't
tell just by examining what it is rated for.

The reason that type of outlet is rated for 250v is that it is commonly
used to supply power for electric dryers, ovens, ranges, and other high
wattage appliances that are engineered to use the 220/240 supply voltage
(yes, including use in countries that use 120v for almost all other
electrical equipment).

That is why NEMA standardizes these plugs.



Yes, there are NEMA standards.

With all the stuff coming into the US from China and sometimes other
countries you never know what they may send into the US.

Where I worked we had some big temperature controlled heaters. They ran
on 480 volts 3 phase and anywhere from 10 to 200 amps. There was a big
building project and another bank of heates were installed. While
setting they up we could not get the high end to reach anywhere the 480
volts. Come to find out the equipment was sent in as 380 volt devices.
I don't know what country uses that.

On another note everything that had the 480 volt disconnects green ment
that the breaker was supplying power and red ment it was not. Then the
European stuff came in and their idea was red ment the breaker was on
and it was dangerous to go in the box and green ment the breaker was off
and it was safe. Exectally backwards.

I don't remember the colors now,but even the 120 volt replacement cords
had blue and brown wires instead of the more normal black and white we
use in the US.


Ordering low bid stuff from offshore is always a crap shoot but you
should verify the voltage ratings are right. I agree Europe uses
different marking standards and it is not even standard across the EU.
They are trying but old habits are hard to break and it takes a long
time to replace all of the installed equipment.
The NEC does recognize the European cord color standards tho.

400.21 (C) Neutral identification ... For jacketed cords furnished
with appliances, one conductor
having its insulation colored light blue, with the other conductors
having their insulation of a readily distinguishable color
other than white or gray.

On Sunday, February 23, 2020 at 2:06:41 PM UTC-5, wrote:
On Sun, 23 Feb 2020 10:23:06 -0500, Ralph Mowery
wrote:

In article ,
says...

I'm not questioning the safety rating of the outlet. I'm questioning
whether that outlet is supplying 120 or 220/240 volts. And you can't
tell just by examining what it is rated for.

The reason that type of outlet is rated for 250v is that it is commonly
used to supply power for electric dryers, ovens, ranges, and other high
wattage appliances that are engineered to use the 220/240 supply voltage
(yes, including use in countries that use 120v for almost all other
electrical equipment).

That is why NEMA standardizes these plugs.



Yes, there are NEMA standards.

With all the stuff coming into the US from China and sometimes other
countries you never know what they may send into the US.

Where I worked we had some big temperature controlled heaters. They ran
on 480 volts 3 phase and anywhere from 10 to 200 amps. There was a big
building project and another bank of heates were installed. While
setting they up we could not get the high end to reach anywhere the 480
volts. Come to find out the equipment was sent in as 380 volt devices.
I don't know what country uses that.

On another note everything that had the 480 volt disconnects green ment
that the breaker was supplying power and red ment it was not. Then the
European stuff came in and their idea was red ment the breaker was on
and it was dangerous to go in the box and green ment the breaker was off
and it was safe. Exectally backwards.

I don't remember the colors now,but even the 120 volt replacement cords
had blue and brown wires instead of the more normal black and white we
use in the US.


Ordering low bid stuff from offshore is always a crap shoot but you
should verify the voltage ratings are right.

It's $20 for a simple adapter and Home Depot is selling it.



I agree Europe uses
different marking standards and it is not even standard across the EU.
They are trying but old habits are hard to break and it takes a long
time to replace all of the installed equipment.
The NEC does recognize the European cord color standards tho.

400.21 (C) Neutral identification ... For jacketed cords furnished
with appliances, one conductor
having its insulation colored light blue, with the other conductors
having their insulation of a readily distinguishable color
other than white or gray.

On Mon, 24 Feb 2020 05:11:59 -0800 (PST), trader_4
wrote:

On Sunday, February 23, 2020 at 2:06:41 PM UTC-5, wrote:
On Sun, 23 Feb 2020 10:23:06 -0500, Ralph Mowery
wrote:

In article ,
says...

I'm not questioning the safety rating of the outlet. I'm questioning
whether that outlet is supplying 120 or 220/240 volts. And you can't
tell just by examining what it is rated for.

The reason that type of outlet is rated for 250v is that it is commonly
used to supply power for electric dryers, ovens, ranges, and other high
wattage appliances that are engineered to use the 220/240 supply voltage
(yes, including use in countries that use 120v for almost all other
electrical equipment).

That is why NEMA standardizes these plugs.



Yes, there are NEMA standards.

With all the stuff coming into the US from China and sometimes other
countries you never know what they may send into the US.

Where I worked we had some big temperature controlled heaters. They ran
on 480 volts 3 phase and anywhere from 10 to 200 amps. There was a big
building project and another bank of heates were installed. While
setting they up we could not get the high end to reach anywhere the 480
volts. Come to find out the equipment was sent in as 380 volt devices.
I don't know what country uses that.

On another note everything that had the 480 volt disconnects green ment
that the breaker was supplying power and red ment it was not. Then the
European stuff came in and their idea was red ment the breaker was on
and it was dangerous to go in the box and green ment the breaker was off
and it was safe. Exectally backwards.

I don't remember the colors now,but even the 120 volt replacement cords
had blue and brown wires instead of the more normal black and white we
use in the US.


Ordering low bid stuff from offshore is always a crap shoot but you
should verify the voltage ratings are right.

It's $20 for a simple adapter and Home Depot is selling it.



You are not buying a "simple adapter" from Home Depot to get from 380v
to 480 rating.
380v is the European standard 3p wye that gives them the single phase
L/N 220v. (also in the other Brit dominated places like NZ and Oz). It
will also be rated at 50hz but I doubt a toaster wire heater cares
about that.

writes:
On Mon, 24 Feb 2020 05:11:59 -0800 (PST), trader_4
wrote:

On Sunday, February 23, 2020 at 2:06:41 PM UTC-5, wrote:
On Sun, 23 Feb 2020 10:23:06 -0500, Ralph Mowery
wrote:

In article ,
says...

I'm not questioning the safety rating of the outlet. I'm questioning
whether that outlet is supplying 120 or 220/240 volts. And you can't
tell just by examining what it is rated for.

The reason that type of outlet is rated for 250v is that it is commonly
used to supply power for electric dryers, ovens, ranges, and other high
wattage appliances that are engineered to use the 220/240 supply voltage
(yes, including use in countries that use 120v for almost all other
electrical equipment).

That is why NEMA standardizes these plugs.



Yes, there are NEMA standards.

With all the stuff coming into the US from China and sometimes other
countries you never know what they may send into the US.

Where I worked we had some big temperature controlled heaters. They ran
on 480 volts 3 phase and anywhere from 10 to 200 amps. There was a big
building project and another bank of heates were installed. While
setting they up we could not get the high end to reach anywhere the 480
volts. Come to find out the equipment was sent in as 380 volt devices.
I don't know what country uses that.

On another note everything that had the 480 volt disconnects green ment
that the breaker was supplying power and red ment it was not. Then the
European stuff came in and their idea was red ment the breaker was on
and it was dangerous to go in the box and green ment the breaker was off
and it was safe. Exectally backwards.

I don't remember the colors now,but even the 120 volt replacement cords
had blue and brown wires instead of the more normal black and white we
use in the US.


Ordering low bid stuff from offshore is always a crap shoot but you
should verify the voltage ratings are right.

It's $20 for a simple adapter and Home Depot is selling it.



You are not buying a "simple adapter" from Home Depot to get from 380v
to 480 rating.

I suspect the 'simple adapter' refers to the OP pulling 120 from
a four-wire 240 recep.

On Mon, 24 Feb 2020 16:04:31 GMT, (Scott Lurndal)
wrote:

writes:
On Mon, 24 Feb 2020 05:11:59 -0800 (PST), trader_4
wrote:

On Sunday, February 23, 2020 at 2:06:41 PM UTC-5, wrote:
On Sun, 23 Feb 2020 10:23:06 -0500, Ralph Mowery
wrote:

In article ,
says...

I'm not questioning the safety rating of the outlet. I'm questioning
whether that outlet is supplying 120 or 220/240 volts. And you can't
tell just by examining what it is rated for.

The reason that type of outlet is rated for 250v is that it is commonly
used to supply power for electric dryers, ovens, ranges, and other high
wattage appliances that are engineered to use the 220/240 supply voltage
(yes, including use in countries that use 120v for almost all other
electrical equipment).

That is why NEMA standardizes these plugs.



Yes, there are NEMA standards.

With all the stuff coming into the US from China and sometimes other
countries you never know what they may send into the US.

Where I worked we had some big temperature controlled heaters. They ran
on 480 volts 3 phase and anywhere from 10 to 200 amps. There was a big
building project and another bank of heates were installed. While
setting they up we could not get the high end to reach anywhere the 480
volts. Come to find out the equipment was sent in as 380 volt devices.
I don't know what country uses that.

On another note everything that had the 480 volt disconnects green ment
that the breaker was supplying power and red ment it was not. Then the
European stuff came in and their idea was red ment the breaker was on
and it was dangerous to go in the box and green ment the breaker was off
and it was safe. Exectally backwards.

I don't remember the colors now,but even the 120 volt replacement cords
had blue and brown wires instead of the more normal black and white we
use in the US.


Ordering low bid stuff from offshore is always a crap shoot but you
should verify the voltage ratings are right.

It's $20 for a simple adapter and Home Depot is selling it.



You are not buying a "simple adapter" from Home Depot to get from 380v
to 480 rating.

I suspect the 'simple adapter' refers to the OP pulling 120 from
a four-wire 240 recep.

The OP already has that

On Monday, February 24, 2020 at 10:51:01 AM UTC-5, wrote:
On Mon, 24 Feb 2020 05:11:59 -0800 (PST), trader_4
wrote:

On Sunday, February 23, 2020 at 2:06:41 PM UTC-5, wrote:
On Sun, 23 Feb 2020 10:23:06 -0500, Ralph Mowery
wrote:

In article ,
says...

I'm not questioning the safety rating of the outlet. I'm questioning
whether that outlet is supplying 120 or 220/240 volts. And you can't
tell just by examining what it is rated for.

The reason that type of outlet is rated for 250v is that it is commonly
used to supply power for electric dryers, ovens, ranges, and other high
wattage appliances that are engineered to use the 220/240 supply voltage
(yes, including use in countries that use 120v for almost all other
electrical equipment).

That is why NEMA standardizes these plugs.



Yes, there are NEMA standards.

With all the stuff coming into the US from China and sometimes other
countries you never know what they may send into the US.

Where I worked we had some big temperature controlled heaters. They ran
on 480 volts 3 phase and anywhere from 10 to 200 amps. There was a big
building project and another bank of heates were installed. While
setting they up we could not get the high end to reach anywhere the 480
volts. Come to find out the equipment was sent in as 380 volt devices.
I don't know what country uses that.

On another note everything that had the 480 volt disconnects green ment
that the breaker was supplying power and red ment it was not. Then the
European stuff came in and their idea was red ment the breaker was on
and it was dangerous to go in the box and green ment the breaker was off
and it was safe. Exectally backwards.

I don't remember the colors now,but even the 120 volt replacement cords
had blue and brown wires instead of the more normal black and white we
use in the US.


Ordering low bid stuff from offshore is always a crap shoot but you
should verify the voltage ratings are right.

It's $20 for a simple adapter and Home Depot is selling it.



You are not buying a "simple adapter" from Home Depot to get from 380v
to 480 rating.
380v is the European standard 3p wye that gives them the single phase
L/N 220v. (also in the other Brit dominated places like NZ and Oz). It
will also be rated at 50hz but I doubt a toaster wire heater cares
about that.

Silly me, I thought the thread was about the 240V to 120V adapter
that the OP posted a link to at HD.

On Mon, 24 Feb 2020 09:35:40 -0800 (PST), trader_4
wrote:

On Monday, February 24, 2020 at 10:51:01 AM UTC-5, wrote:
On Mon, 24 Feb 2020 05:11:59 -0800 (PST), trader_4
wrote:

On Sunday, February 23, 2020 at 2:06:41 PM UTC-5, wrote:
On Sun, 23 Feb 2020 10:23:06 -0500, Ralph Mowery
wrote:

In article ,
says...

I'm not questioning the safety rating of the outlet. I'm questioning
whether that outlet is supplying 120 or 220/240 volts. And you can't
tell just by examining what it is rated for.

The reason that type of outlet is rated for 250v is that it is commonly
used to supply power for electric dryers, ovens, ranges, and other high
wattage appliances that are engineered to use the 220/240 supply voltage
(yes, including use in countries that use 120v for almost all other
electrical equipment).

That is why NEMA standardizes these plugs.



Yes, there are NEMA standards.

With all the stuff coming into the US from China and sometimes other
countries you never know what they may send into the US.

Where I worked we had some big temperature controlled heaters. They ran
on 480 volts 3 phase and anywhere from 10 to 200 amps. There was a big
building project and another bank of heates were installed. While
setting they up we could not get the high end to reach anywhere the 480
volts. Come to find out the equipment was sent in as 380 volt devices.
I don't know what country uses that.

On another note everything that had the 480 volt disconnects green ment
that the breaker was supplying power and red ment it was not. Then the
European stuff came in and their idea was red ment the breaker was on
and it was dangerous to go in the box and green ment the breaker was off
and it was safe. Exectally backwards.

I don't remember the colors now,but even the 120 volt replacement cords
had blue and brown wires instead of the more normal black and white we
use in the US.


Ordering low bid stuff from offshore is always a crap shoot but you
should verify the voltage ratings are right.

It's $20 for a simple adapter and Home Depot is selling it.



You are not buying a "simple adapter" from Home Depot to get from 380v
to 480 rating.
380v is the European standard 3p wye that gives them the single phase
L/N 220v. (also in the other Brit dominated places like NZ and Oz). It
will also be rated at 50hz but I doubt a toaster wire heater cares
about that.

Silly me, I thought the thread was about the 240V to 120V adapter
that the OP posted a link to at HD.

I was referring to the note you quoted and I assumed you were
responding to.

On Sunday, February 23, 2020 at 9:36:08 AM UTC-5, Dean Hoffman wrote:


One of the pictures shows the male end marked as 125/250 volt
with four prongs. The female end is marked as 125 volt with three
openings. The connector loses one hot leg in the transition.

Not being argumentative, asking because I don't know. Even though I should.

That circuit can supply 30 A at 240V on both hot legs.

The adapter will use one leg and get 120V. No problem, the treadmill is 120V. But the treadmill uses 17A. Is there still 30A available off just one leg? Or is there half of that, only 15A available?

On Monday, February 24, 2020 at 4:04:37 PM UTC-5, TimR wrote:
On Sunday, February 23, 2020 at 9:36:08 AM UTC-5, Dean Hoffman wrote:


One of the pictures shows the male end marked as 125/250 volt
with four prongs. The female end is marked as 125 volt with three
openings. The connector loses one hot leg in the transition.

Not being argumentative, asking because I don't know. Even though I should.

That circuit can supply 30 A at 240V on both hot legs.

The adapter will use one leg and get 120V. No problem, the treadmill is 120V. But the treadmill uses 17A. Is there still 30A available off just one leg? Or is there half of that, only 15A available?

It can supply 30A at 120 too. With 240 the 30A goes from one hot to
the other. With 120 it goes from one hot to neutral.

In article ,
says...

One of the pictures shows the male end marked as 125/250 volt
with four prongs. The female end is marked as 125 volt with three
openings. The connector loses one hot leg in the transition.

Not being argumentative, asking because I don't know. Even though I should.

That circuit can supply 30 A at 240V on both hot legs.

The adapter will use one leg and get 120V. No problem, the treadmill is 120V. But the treadmill uses 17A. Is there still 30A available off just one leg? Or is there half of that, only 15A available?




I am not sure of the adaptor you showed a few days ago. However if the
breaker is for 240 volts and 30 A then that is 30 A on each of the 120 V
connections. So with the proper adaptor or rewiring the receptical you
could use 2 devices that draw 30 amps at 120 volts. If one really gets
technical, you probably should not draw but about 80% of that which is
still plenty for your 17 amp treadmill.


Even the simplest of questions need to be asked when you are not sure.
Even as I and another said, measure the adaptor to make sure you get
near 120 V instead of near 240 V or just plug in a lamp and see if the
bulb blows out or just burns normally before hooking up any expensive
equipment.

On Mon, 24 Feb 2020 13:04:33 -0800 (PST), TimR
wrote:

On Sunday, February 23, 2020 at 9:36:08 AM UTC-5, Dean Hoffman wrote:


One of the pictures shows the male end marked as 125/250 volt
with four prongs. The female end is marked as 125 volt with three
openings. The connector loses one hot leg in the transition.

Not being argumentative, asking because I don't know. Even though I should.

That circuit can supply 30 A at 240V on both hot legs.

The adapter will use one leg and get 120V. No problem, the treadmill is 120V. But the treadmill uses 17A. Is there still 30A available off just one leg? Or is there half of that, only 15A available?

It is a single phase 120v 30a circuit. The plug itself is not legal
unless there is over current protection built in but I guess nobody
ever pointed that out. I suppose they could put a 20a fusible link in
there but it probably would not be replaceable.

On Mon, 24 Feb 2020 10:50:46 -0500, wrote:

On Mon, 24 Feb 2020 05:11:59 -0800 (PST), trader_4
wrote:

On Sunday, February 23, 2020 at 2:06:41 PM UTC-5, wrote:
On Sun, 23 Feb 2020 10:23:06 -0500, Ralph Mowery
wrote:

In article ,
says...

I'm not questioning the safety rating of the outlet. I'm questioning
whether that outlet is supplying 120 or 220/240 volts. And you can't
tell just by examining what it is rated for.

The reason that type of outlet is rated for 250v is that it is commonly
used to supply power for electric dryers, ovens, ranges, and other high
wattage appliances that are engineered to use the 220/240 supply voltage
(yes, including use in countries that use 120v for almost all other
electrical equipment).

That is why NEMA standardizes these plugs.



Yes, there are NEMA standards.

With all the stuff coming into the US from China and sometimes other
countries you never know what they may send into the US.

Where I worked we had some big temperature controlled heaters. They ran
on 480 volts 3 phase and anywhere from 10 to 200 amps. There was a big
building project and another bank of heates were installed. While
setting they up we could not get the high end to reach anywhere the 480
volts. Come to find out the equipment was sent in as 380 volt devices.
I don't know what country uses that.

On another note everything that had the 480 volt disconnects green ment
that the breaker was supplying power and red ment it was not. Then the
European stuff came in and their idea was red ment the breaker was on
and it was dangerous to go in the box and green ment the breaker was off
and it was safe. Exectally backwards.

I don't remember the colors now,but even the 120 volt replacement cords
had blue and brown wires instead of the more normal black and white we
use in the US.


Ordering low bid stuff from offshore is always a crap shoot but you
should verify the voltage ratings are right.

It's $20 for a simple adapter and Home Depot is selling it.



You are not buying a "simple adapter" from Home Depot to get from 380v
to 480 rating.
380v is the European standard 3p wye that gives them the single phase
L/N 220v. (also in the other Brit dominated places like NZ and Oz). It
will also be rated at 50hz but I doubt a toaster wire heater cares
about that.
And normal "romex" wiring in Canada and the US is rated for 300volts
- - - - or some of it 360 or even 600.

The RATING of the adapter does not necessarily mean that is what it is
intended for.

LOTS of extention and power cords use brown and blue with green/yellow
stripeed ground since much equipment is builkt for the "world market".
North America may well br the only paet of the world that still uses
black and white and even here on AC it's black and white - with white
being neutral and black live - while on DC black is ground/- and RED
is live or +. -

On Mon, 24 Feb 2020 18:35:05 -0500, Clare Snyder
wrote:

On Mon, 24 Feb 2020 10:50:46 -0500, wrote:

On Mon, 24 Feb 2020 05:11:59 -0800 (PST), trader_4
wrote:

On Sunday, February 23, 2020 at 2:06:41 PM UTC-5, wrote:
On Sun, 23 Feb 2020 10:23:06 -0500, Ralph Mowery
wrote:

In article ,
says...

I'm not questioning the safety rating of the outlet. I'm questioning
whether that outlet is supplying 120 or 220/240 volts. And you can't
tell just by examining what it is rated for.

The reason that type of outlet is rated for 250v is that it is commonly
used to supply power for electric dryers, ovens, ranges, and other high
wattage appliances that are engineered to use the 220/240 supply voltage
(yes, including use in countries that use 120v for almost all other
electrical equipment).

That is why NEMA standardizes these plugs.



Yes, there are NEMA standards.

With all the stuff coming into the US from China and sometimes other
countries you never know what they may send into the US.

Where I worked we had some big temperature controlled heaters. They ran
on 480 volts 3 phase and anywhere from 10 to 200 amps. There was a big
building project and another bank of heates were installed. While
setting they up we could not get the high end to reach anywhere the 480
volts. Come to find out the equipment was sent in as 380 volt devices.
I don't know what country uses that.

On another note everything that had the 480 volt disconnects green ment
that the breaker was supplying power and red ment it was not. Then the
European stuff came in and their idea was red ment the breaker was on
and it was dangerous to go in the box and green ment the breaker was off
and it was safe. Exectally backwards.

I don't remember the colors now,but even the 120 volt replacement cords
had blue and brown wires instead of the more normal black and white we
use in the US.


Ordering low bid stuff from offshore is always a crap shoot but you
should verify the voltage ratings are right.

It's $20 for a simple adapter and Home Depot is selling it.



You are not buying a "simple adapter" from Home Depot to get from 380v
to 480 rating.
380v is the European standard 3p wye that gives them the single phase
L/N 220v. (also in the other Brit dominated places like NZ and Oz). It
will also be rated at 50hz but I doubt a toaster wire heater cares
about that.
And normal "romex" wiring in Canada and the US is rated for 300volts
- - - - or some of it 360 or even 600.

Romex (Type NM) is ALL 600v as is virtually all chapter 3 conductors
although some are higher.
The only place you see 300v is in "junior" cords and some fixture
wires in Chapter 4. Then there is Chapter 7 low voltage wire.

The RATING of the adapter does not necessarily mean that is what it is
intended for.

There seems to be 2 threads going on here. The OP's adapter and a post
about some heaters. Ratings of devices is not the same as ratings of
utilization equipment.



LOTS of extention and power cords use brown and blue with green/yellow
stripeed ground since much equipment is builkt for the "world market".
North America may well br the only paet of the world that still uses
black and white and even here on AC it's black and white - with white
being neutral and black live - while on DC black is ground/- and RED
is live or +. -

The NEC acknowledges the blue neutral in some imported factory
assembled cords but all chapter 3 wiring methods define white or gray
as grounded conductors (usually but not always a neutral) and bare or
green, green/yellow as equipment grounding conductors.

In article ,
says...

LOTS of extention and power cords use brown and blue with green/yellow
stripeed ground since much equipment is builkt for the "world market".
North America may well br the only paet of the world that still uses
black and white and even here on AC it's black and white - with white
being neutral and black live - while on DC black is ground/- and RED
is live or +. -



Where I worked there were thousands of 24 volt DC signal circuits. It
took me a long time to get it in my head that the black wire was the
plus and the white was the negative. Before that I was always use to
the black wire being negative.

Then a new building project was designed to use red for the positive and
black for the negative. Turned out there was no red and black signal
wire ordered , just black and white. Engineers decided that instead of
changing the blue prints to slip a piece of red heat shrink tubing over
the last 6 or so inches of the white wire. Ok, tuil they ran out of red
heat shrink tubing. So black sill negative and white positive. We put
up with that for 2 years and the production line shut down for
maintence. We then went around and took off the red heat shrink and
reversed the colors so the 500 or so connections matched our old
'standard'. The blue prints stayed the same, but we knew not to pay
attention to the old colors.

On Mon, 24 Feb 2020 13:04:33 -0800 (PST), TimR
wrote:

On Sunday, February 23, 2020 at 9:36:08 AM UTC-5, Dean Hoffman wrote:


One of the pictures shows the male end marked as 125/250 volt
with four prongs. The female end is marked as 125 volt with three
openings. The connector loses one hot leg in the transition.

Not being argumentative, asking because I don't know. Even though I should.

That circuit can supply 30 A at 240V on both hot legs.

The adapter will use one leg and get 120V. No problem, the treadmill is 120V. But the treadmill uses 17A. Is there still 30A available off just one leg? Or is there half of that, only 15A available?
Full 30

On Mon, 24 Feb 2020 18:33:23 -0500, wrote:

On Mon, 24 Feb 2020 13:04:33 -0800 (PST), TimR
wrote:

On Sunday, February 23, 2020 at 9:36:08 AM UTC-5, Dean Hoffman wrote:


One of the pictures shows the male end marked as 125/250 volt
with four prongs. The female end is marked as 125 volt with three
openings. The connector loses one hot leg in the transition.

Not being argumentative, asking because I don't know. Even though I should.

That circuit can supply 30 A at 240V on both hot legs.

The adapter will use one leg and get 120V. No problem, the treadmill is 120V. But the treadmill uses 17A. Is there still 30A available off just one leg? Or is there half of that, only 15A available?

It is a single phase 120v 30a circuit. The plug itself is not legal
unless there is over current protection built in but I guess nobody
ever pointed that out. I suppose they could put a 20a fusible link in
there but it probably would not be replaceable.


Are you sure?? A 20 amp outlet is also a 15 amp outlet - and WILL be
fuded at 20 amps. The fuse is to protect the WIRING - not the device.
As long as the adapter is rated to handle 30 amos it is legal and
safe. (Legal if it has UL or CSA approval - not legal without even if
it had a 15 amp fuse in it)

On Mon, 24 Feb 2020 19:16:35 -0500, wrote:

On Mon, 24 Feb 2020 18:35:05 -0500, Clare Snyder
wrote:

On Mon, 24 Feb 2020 10:50:46 -0500, wrote:

On Mon, 24 Feb 2020 05:11:59 -0800 (PST), trader_4
wrote:

On Sunday, February 23, 2020 at 2:06:41 PM UTC-5, wrote:
On Sun, 23 Feb 2020 10:23:06 -0500, Ralph Mowery
wrote:

In article ,
says...

I'm not questioning the safety rating of the outlet. I'm questioning
whether that outlet is supplying 120 or 220/240 volts. And you can't
tell just by examining what it is rated for.

The reason that type of outlet is rated for 250v is that it is commonly
used to supply power for electric dryers, ovens, ranges, and other high
wattage appliances that are engineered to use the 220/240 supply voltage
(yes, including use in countries that use 120v for almost all other
electrical equipment).

That is why NEMA standardizes these plugs.



Yes, there are NEMA standards.

With all the stuff coming into the US from China and sometimes other
countries you never know what they may send into the US.

Where I worked we had some big temperature controlled heaters. They ran
on 480 volts 3 phase and anywhere from 10 to 200 amps. There was a big
building project and another bank of heates were installed. While
setting they up we could not get the high end to reach anywhere the 480
volts. Come to find out the equipment was sent in as 380 volt devices.
I don't know what country uses that.

On another note everything that had the 480 volt disconnects green ment
that the breaker was supplying power and red ment it was not. Then the
European stuff came in and their idea was red ment the breaker was on
and it was dangerous to go in the box and green ment the breaker was off
and it was safe. Exectally backwards.

I don't remember the colors now,but even the 120 volt replacement cords
had blue and brown wires instead of the more normal black and white we
use in the US.


Ordering low bid stuff from offshore is always a crap shoot but you
should verify the voltage ratings are right.

It's $20 for a simple adapter and Home Depot is selling it.



You are not buying a "simple adapter" from Home Depot to get from 380v
to 480 rating.
380v is the European standard 3p wye that gives them the single phase
L/N 220v. (also in the other Brit dominated places like NZ and Oz). It
will also be rated at 50hz but I doubt a toaster wire heater cares
about that.
And normal "romex" wiring in Canada and the US is rated for 300volts
- - - - or some of it 360 or even 600.

Romex (Type NM) is ALL 600v as is virtually all chapter 3 conductors
although some are higher.

No, there is lots of 2 wire+ground #14 cable that is only rated at
300 volts.
The only place you see 300v is in "junior" cords and some fixture
wires in Chapter 4. Then there is Chapter 7 low voltage wire.
MOST extention or attached power cords ARE 600 volt

The RATING of the adapter does not necessarily mean that is what it is
intended for.

There seems to be 2 threads going on here. The OP's adapter and a post
about some heaters. Ratings of devices is not the same as ratings of
utilization equipment.



LOTS of extention and power cords use brown and blue with green/yellow
stripeed ground since much equipment is builkt for the "world market".
North America may well br the only paet of the world that still uses
black and white and even here on AC it's black and white - with white
being neutral and black live - while on DC black is ground/- and RED
is live or +. -

The NEC acknowledges the blue neutral in some imported factory
assembled cords but all chapter 3 wiring methods define white or gray
as grounded conductors (usually but not always a neutral) and bare or
green, green/yellow as equipment grounding conductors.

On Mon, 24 Feb 2020 21:20:06 -0500, Clare Snyder
wrote:

On Mon, 24 Feb 2020 18:33:23 -0500, wrote:

On Mon, 24 Feb 2020 13:04:33 -0800 (PST), TimR
wrote:

On Sunday, February 23, 2020 at 9:36:08 AM UTC-5, Dean Hoffman wrote:


One of the pictures shows the male end marked as 125/250 volt
with four prongs. The female end is marked as 125 volt with three
openings. The connector loses one hot leg in the transition.

Not being argumentative, asking because I don't know. Even though I should.

That circuit can supply 30 A at 240V on both hot legs.

The adapter will use one leg and get 120V. No problem, the treadmill is 120V. But the treadmill uses 17A. Is there still 30A available off just one leg? Or is there half of that, only 15A available?

It is a single phase 120v 30a circuit. The plug itself is not legal
unless there is over current protection built in but I guess nobody
ever pointed that out. I suppose they could put a 20a fusible link in
there but it probably would not be replaceable.


Are you sure?? A 20 amp outlet is also a 15 amp outlet - and WILL be
fuded at 20 amps. The fuse is to protect the WIRING - not the device.
As long as the adapter is rated to handle 30 amos it is legal and
safe. (Legal if it has UL or CSA approval - not legal without even if
it had a 15 amp fuse in it)

There does not seem to be any NRTL approval stamp but the use of the
receptacles is spelled out in 210.21(B)(3)

Circuit Rating
(Amperes) Receptacle Rating (Amperes)
15.................... Not over 15
20.................. 15 or 20
30..................... 30
40.................. 40 or 50
50...................... 50

You are plugging this into a 30 amp circuit and then coming out with a
NEMA 5-20 receptacle. Without supplemental over current protection the
utilization equipment you plug in is not adequately protected. For
example, that lamp you want to test with will have an 18ga line cord
and the maximum short circuit protection on 18ga fixture wire is 20a.
(not to be confused with the 7a overcurrent protection)

240.5(B)(2) Fixture Wire. Fixture wire shall be permitted to be tapped
to the branch-circuit conductor of a branch circuit in accordance
with the following:
(1) 20-ampere circuits €” 18 AWG, up to 15 m (50 ft) of run
length
(2) 20-ampere circuits €” 16 AWG, up to 30 m (100 ft) of run
length
(3) 20-ampere circuits €” 14 AWG and larger
(4) 30-ampere circuits €” 14 AWG and larger
(5) 40-ampere circuits €” 12 AWG and larger
(6) 50-ampere circuits €” 12 AWG and larger

The manufacturer will also tell you what the maximum circuit size you
can plug their equipment into but that is generally enforced by the
plug. You exceed those instructions at your own peril.

On Mon, 24 Feb 2020 21:23:12 -0500, Clare Snyder
wrote:

On Mon, 24 Feb 2020 19:16:35 -0500, wrote:

On Mon, 24 Feb 2020 18:35:05 -0500, Clare Snyder
wrote:

On Mon, 24 Feb 2020 10:50:46 -0500, wrote:

On Mon, 24 Feb 2020 05:11:59 -0800 (PST), trader_4
wrote:

On Sunday, February 23, 2020 at 2:06:41 PM UTC-5, wrote:
On Sun, 23 Feb 2020 10:23:06 -0500, Ralph Mowery
wrote:

In article ,
says...

I'm not questioning the safety rating of the outlet. I'm questioning
whether that outlet is supplying 120 or 220/240 volts. And you can't
tell just by examining what it is rated for.

The reason that type of outlet is rated for 250v is that it is commonly
used to supply power for electric dryers, ovens, ranges, and other high
wattage appliances that are engineered to use the 220/240 supply voltage
(yes, including use in countries that use 120v for almost all other
electrical equipment).

That is why NEMA standardizes these plugs.



Yes, there are NEMA standards.

With all the stuff coming into the US from China and sometimes other
countries you never know what they may send into the US.

Where I worked we had some big temperature controlled heaters. They ran
on 480 volts 3 phase and anywhere from 10 to 200 amps. There was a big
building project and another bank of heates were installed. While
setting they up we could not get the high end to reach anywhere the 480
volts. Come to find out the equipment was sent in as 380 volt devices.
I don't know what country uses that.

On another note everything that had the 480 volt disconnects green ment
that the breaker was supplying power and red ment it was not. Then the
European stuff came in and their idea was red ment the breaker was on
and it was dangerous to go in the box and green ment the breaker was off
and it was safe. Exectally backwards.

I don't remember the colors now,but even the 120 volt replacement cords
had blue and brown wires instead of the more normal black and white we
use in the US.


Ordering low bid stuff from offshore is always a crap shoot but you
should verify the voltage ratings are right.

It's $20 for a simple adapter and Home Depot is selling it.



You are not buying a "simple adapter" from Home Depot to get from 380v
to 480 rating.
380v is the European standard 3p wye that gives them the single phase
L/N 220v. (also in the other Brit dominated places like NZ and Oz). It
will also be rated at 50hz but I doubt a toaster wire heater cares
about that.
And normal "romex" wiring in Canada and the US is rated for 300volts
- - - - or some of it 360 or even 600.

Romex (Type NM) is ALL 600v as is virtually all chapter 3 conductors
although some are higher.

No, there is lots of 2 wire+ground #14 cable that is only rated at
300 volts.
The only place you see 300v is in "junior" cords and some fixture
wires in Chapter 4. Then there is Chapter 7 low voltage wire.

MOST extention or attached power cords ARE 600 volt

Not really, the answer is printed or embossed on the cord. If it has a
"J" in it, it is 300v (SJOT, SJT etc your regular "orange cord")
That is even true of more expensive cords. ($100)
Example of a "heavy Duty" cord
https://www.homedepot.com/p/Southwire-100-ft-10-3-SJEOW-Outdoor-Heavy-Duty-T-Prene-Extension-Cord-with-Power-Light-Plug-1789SW0002/203066459

SJEOW cord is about as tough as you get in the consumer market
S= hard service
J= Junior (300v)
E= Thermoplastic Elastomer
O= Oil resistant
W= Water Resistant.

I have never seen any zip cord that was 600v and that even includes
the large dryer and range cord.

SO cord is 600v but that is the heavy black rubber cord you see at a
carnival but you don't see much of that at the Home Depot.

On Mon, 24 Feb 2020 22:59:38 -0500, wrote:

On Mon, 24 Feb 2020 21:20:06 -0500, Clare Snyder
wrote:

On Mon, 24 Feb 2020 18:33:23 -0500, wrote:

On Mon, 24 Feb 2020 13:04:33 -0800 (PST), TimR
wrote:

On Sunday, February 23, 2020 at 9:36:08 AM UTC-5, Dean Hoffman wrote:


One of the pictures shows the male end marked as 125/250 volt
with four prongs. The female end is marked as 125 volt with three
openings. The connector loses one hot leg in the transition.

Not being argumentative, asking because I don't know. Even though I should.

That circuit can supply 30 A at 240V on both hot legs.

The adapter will use one leg and get 120V. No problem, the treadmill is 120V. But the treadmill uses 17A. Is there still 30A available off just one leg? Or is there half of that, only 15A available?

It is a single phase 120v 30a circuit. The plug itself is not legal
unless there is over current protection built in but I guess nobody
ever pointed that out. I suppose they could put a 20a fusible link in
there but it probably would not be replaceable.


Are you sure?? A 20 amp outlet is also a 15 amp outlet - and WILL be
fuded at 20 amps. The fuse is to protect the WIRING - not the device.
As long as the adapter is rated to handle 30 amos it is legal and
safe. (Legal if it has UL or CSA approval - not legal without even if
it had a 15 amp fuse in it)

There does not seem to be any NRTL approval stamp but the use of the
receptacles is spelled out in 210.21(B)(3)

Circuit Rating
(Amperes) Receptacle Rating (Amperes)
15.................... Not over 15
20.................. 15 or 20
30..................... 30
40.................. 40 or 50
50...................... 50

You are plugging this into a 30 amp circuit and then coming out with a
NEMA 5-20 receptacle. Without supplemental over current protection the
utilization equipment you plug in is not adequately protected. For
example, that lamp you want to test with will have an 18ga line cord
and the maximum short circuit protection on 18ga fixture wire is 20a.
(not to be confused with the 7a overcurrent protection)

240.5(B)(2) Fixture Wire. Fixture wire shall be permitted to be tapped
to the branch-circuit conductor of a branch circuit in accordance
with the following:
(1) 20-ampere circuits — 18 AWG, up to 15 m (50 ft) of run
length
(2) 20-ampere circuits — 16 AWG, up to 30 m (100 ft) of run
length
(3) 20-ampere circuits — 14 AWG and larger
(4) 30-ampere circuits — 14 AWG and larger
(5) 40-ampere circuits — 12 AWG and larger
(6) 50-ampere circuits — 12 AWG and larger

The manufacturer will also tell you what the maximum circuit size you
can plug their equipment into but that is generally enforced by the
plug. You exceed those instructions at your own peril.
If he never plans to use it as a 30 amp 240 volt circuit the solution
is simple. Replace the 30 amp breaker with a 20

On Mon, 24 Feb 2020 23:19:11 -0500, wrote:

On Mon, 24 Feb 2020 21:23:12 -0500, Clare Snyder
wrote:

On Mon, 24 Feb 2020 19:16:35 -0500, wrote:

On Mon, 24 Feb 2020 18:35:05 -0500, Clare Snyder
wrote:

On Mon, 24 Feb 2020 10:50:46 -0500, wrote:

On Mon, 24 Feb 2020 05:11:59 -0800 (PST), trader_4
wrote:

On Sunday, February 23, 2020 at 2:06:41 PM UTC-5, wrote:
On Sun, 23 Feb 2020 10:23:06 -0500, Ralph Mowery
wrote:

In article ,
says...

I'm not questioning the safety rating of the outlet. I'm questioning
whether that outlet is supplying 120 or 220/240 volts. And you can't
tell just by examining what it is rated for.

The reason that type of outlet is rated for 250v is that it is commonly
used to supply power for electric dryers, ovens, ranges, and other high
wattage appliances that are engineered to use the 220/240 supply voltage
(yes, including use in countries that use 120v for almost all other
electrical equipment).

That is why NEMA standardizes these plugs.



Yes, there are NEMA standards.

With all the stuff coming into the US from China and sometimes other
countries you never know what they may send into the US.

Where I worked we had some big temperature controlled heaters. They ran
on 480 volts 3 phase and anywhere from 10 to 200 amps. There was a big
building project and another bank of heates were installed. While
setting they up we could not get the high end to reach anywhere the 480
volts. Come to find out the equipment was sent in as 380 volt devices.
I don't know what country uses that.

On another note everything that had the 480 volt disconnects green ment
that the breaker was supplying power and red ment it was not. Then the
European stuff came in and their idea was red ment the breaker was on
and it was dangerous to go in the box and green ment the breaker was off
and it was safe. Exectally backwards.

I don't remember the colors now,but even the 120 volt replacement cords
had blue and brown wires instead of the more normal black and white we
use in the US.


Ordering low bid stuff from offshore is always a crap shoot but you
should verify the voltage ratings are right.

It's $20 for a simple adapter and Home Depot is selling it.



You are not buying a "simple adapter" from Home Depot to get from 380v
to 480 rating.
380v is the European standard 3p wye that gives them the single phase
L/N 220v. (also in the other Brit dominated places like NZ and Oz). It
will also be rated at 50hz but I doubt a toaster wire heater cares
about that.
And normal "romex" wiring in Canada and the US is rated for 300volts
- - - - or some of it 360 or even 600.

Romex (Type NM) is ALL 600v as is virtually all chapter 3 conductors
although some are higher.

No, there is lots of 2 wire+ground #14 cable that is only rated at
300 volts.
The only place you see 300v is in "junior" cords and some fixture
wires in Chapter 4. Then there is Chapter 7 low voltage wire.

MOST extention or attached power cords ARE 600 volt

Not really, the answer is printed or embossed on the cord. If it has a
"J" in it, it is 300v (SJOT, SJT etc your regular "orange cord")
That is even true of more expensive cords. ($100)
Example of a "heavy Duty" cord
https://www.homedepot.com/p/Southwire-100-ft-10-3-SJEOW-Outdoor-Heavy-Duty-T-Prene-Extension-Cord-with-Power-Light-Plug-1789SW0002/203066459

SJEOW cord is about as tough as you get in the consumer market
S= hard service
J= Junior (300v)
E= Thermoplastic Elastomer
O= Oil resistant
W= Water Resistant.

I have never seen any zip cord that was 600v and that even includes
the large dryer and range cord.

SO cord is 600v but that is the heavy black rubber cord you see at a
carnival but you don't see much of that at the Home Depot.


600 volt NM-B 14/2G or 12/2G is the standard cable for residential use
in canada.

Extention cables without the J are 600 volt. All of my contractor
grade cords have no J. SOOW 14AWG and STW 14,, and SOOW 12

Zip cord is NOT an "extention cable" in my books!! It's "Lamp cord" or
"speaker wire"

There ARE a lot of 300 volt ones out there too, I see - but in the
garage or hangar and on job sites we see a lot of 600 volt.

On Tue, 25 Feb 2020 01:00:20 -0500, Clare Snyder
wrote:

On Mon, 24 Feb 2020 23:19:11 -0500, wrote:

On Mon, 24 Feb 2020 21:23:12 -0500, Clare Snyder
wrote:

On Mon, 24 Feb 2020 19:16:35 -0500, wrote:

On Mon, 24 Feb 2020 18:35:05 -0500, Clare Snyder
wrote:

On Mon, 24 Feb 2020 10:50:46 -0500, wrote:

On Mon, 24 Feb 2020 05:11:59 -0800 (PST), trader_4
wrote:

On Sunday, February 23, 2020 at 2:06:41 PM UTC-5, wrote:
On Sun, 23 Feb 2020 10:23:06 -0500, Ralph Mowery
wrote:

In article ,
says...

I'm not questioning the safety rating of the outlet. I'm questioning
whether that outlet is supplying 120 or 220/240 volts. And you can't
tell just by examining what it is rated for.

The reason that type of outlet is rated for 250v is that it is commonly
used to supply power for electric dryers, ovens, ranges, and other high
wattage appliances that are engineered to use the 220/240 supply voltage
(yes, including use in countries that use 120v for almost all other
electrical equipment).

That is why NEMA standardizes these plugs.



Yes, there are NEMA standards.

With all the stuff coming into the US from China and sometimes other
countries you never know what they may send into the US.

Where I worked we had some big temperature controlled heaters. They ran
on 480 volts 3 phase and anywhere from 10 to 200 amps. There was a big
building project and another bank of heates were installed. While
setting they up we could not get the high end to reach anywhere the 480
volts. Come to find out the equipment was sent in as 380 volt devices.
I don't know what country uses that.

On another note everything that had the 480 volt disconnects green ment
that the breaker was supplying power and red ment it was not. Then the
European stuff came in and their idea was red ment the breaker was on
and it was dangerous to go in the box and green ment the breaker was off
and it was safe. Exectally backwards.

I don't remember the colors now,but even the 120 volt replacement cords
had blue and brown wires instead of the more normal black and white we
use in the US.


Ordering low bid stuff from offshore is always a crap shoot but you
should verify the voltage ratings are right.

It's $20 for a simple adapter and Home Depot is selling it.



You are not buying a "simple adapter" from Home Depot to get from 380v
to 480 rating.
380v is the European standard 3p wye that gives them the single phase
L/N 220v. (also in the other Brit dominated places like NZ and Oz). It
will also be rated at 50hz but I doubt a toaster wire heater cares
about that.
And normal "romex" wiring in Canada and the US is rated for 300volts
- - - - or some of it 360 or even 600.

Romex (Type NM) is ALL 600v as is virtually all chapter 3 conductors
although some are higher.

No, there is lots of 2 wire+ground #14 cable that is only rated at
300 volts.
The only place you see 300v is in "junior" cords and some fixture
wires in Chapter 4. Then there is Chapter 7 low voltage wire.

MOST extention or attached power cords ARE 600 volt

Not really, the answer is printed or embossed on the cord. If it has a
"J" in it, it is 300v (SJOT, SJT etc your regular "orange cord")
That is even true of more expensive cords. ($100)
Example of a "heavy Duty" cord
https://www.homedepot.com/p/Southwire-100-ft-10-3-SJEOW-Outdoor-Heavy-Duty-T-Prene-Extension-Cord-with-Power-Light-Plug-1789SW0002/203066459

SJEOW cord is about as tough as you get in the consumer market
S= hard service
J= Junior (300v)
E= Thermoplastic Elastomer
O= Oil resistant
W= Water Resistant.

I have never seen any zip cord that was 600v and that even includes
the large dryer and range cord.

SO cord is 600v but that is the heavy black rubber cord you see at a
carnival but you don't see much of that at the Home Depot.


600 volt NM-B 14/2G or 12/2G is the standard cable for residential use
in canada.


"MOST extention or attached power cords ARE 600 volt"

Cords are not cables. I already said all chapter 3 conductors are 600v
or higher.

Extention cables without the J are 600 volt. All of my contractor
grade cords have no J. SOOW 14AWG and STW 14,, and SOOW 12

Zip cord is NOT an "extention cable" in my books!! It's "Lamp cord" or
"speaker wire"

They hook up cooktops and dryers with 10 ga zip cord.

https://www.homedepot.com/p/HDX-6-ft...-833/100672782

There ARE a lot of 300 volt ones out there too, I see - but in the
garage or hangar and on job sites we see a lot of 600 volt.

I don't see a lot of SO cord but I suppose it is out there.

On Tue, 25 Feb 2020 01:23:46 -0500, wrote:

On Tue, 25 Feb 2020 01:00:20 -0500, Clare Snyder
wrote:

On Mon, 24 Feb 2020 23:19:11 -0500, wrote:

On Mon, 24 Feb 2020 21:23:12 -0500, Clare Snyder
wrote:

On Mon, 24 Feb 2020 19:16:35 -0500, wrote:

On Mon, 24 Feb 2020 18:35:05 -0500, Clare Snyder
wrote:

On Mon, 24 Feb 2020 10:50:46 -0500, wrote:

On Mon, 24 Feb 2020 05:11:59 -0800 (PST), trader_4
wrote:

On Sunday, February 23, 2020 at 2:06:41 PM UTC-5, wrote:
On Sun, 23 Feb 2020 10:23:06 -0500, Ralph Mowery
wrote:

In article ,
says...

I'm not questioning the safety rating of the outlet. I'm questioning
whether that outlet is supplying 120 or 220/240 volts. And you can't
tell just by examining what it is rated for.

The reason that type of outlet is rated for 250v is that it is commonly
used to supply power for electric dryers, ovens, ranges, and other high
wattage appliances that are engineered to use the 220/240 supply voltage
(yes, including use in countries that use 120v for almost all other
electrical equipment).

That is why NEMA standardizes these plugs.



Yes, there are NEMA standards.

With all the stuff coming into the US from China and sometimes other
countries you never know what they may send into the US.

Where I worked we had some big temperature controlled heaters. They ran
on 480 volts 3 phase and anywhere from 10 to 200 amps. There was a big
building project and another bank of heates were installed. While
setting they up we could not get the high end to reach anywhere the 480
volts. Come to find out the equipment was sent in as 380 volt devices.
I don't know what country uses that.

On another note everything that had the 480 volt disconnects green ment
that the breaker was supplying power and red ment it was not. Then the
European stuff came in and their idea was red ment the breaker was on
and it was dangerous to go in the box and green ment the breaker was off
and it was safe. Exectally backwards.

I don't remember the colors now,but even the 120 volt replacement cords
had blue and brown wires instead of the more normal black and white we
use in the US.


Ordering low bid stuff from offshore is always a crap shoot but you
should verify the voltage ratings are right.

It's $20 for a simple adapter and Home Depot is selling it.



You are not buying a "simple adapter" from Home Depot to get from 380v
to 480 rating.
380v is the European standard 3p wye that gives them the single phase
L/N 220v. (also in the other Brit dominated places like NZ and Oz). It
will also be rated at 50hz but I doubt a toaster wire heater cares
about that.
And normal "romex" wiring in Canada and the US is rated for 300volts
- - - - or some of it 360 or even 600.

Romex (Type NM) is ALL 600v as is virtually all chapter 3 conductors
although some are higher.

No, there is lots of 2 wire+ground #14 cable that is only rated at
300 volts.
The only place you see 300v is in "junior" cords and some fixture
wires in Chapter 4. Then there is Chapter 7 low voltage wire.

MOST extention or attached power cords ARE 600 volt

Not really, the answer is printed or embossed on the cord. If it has a
"J" in it, it is 300v (SJOT, SJT etc your regular "orange cord")
That is even true of more expensive cords. ($100)
Example of a "heavy Duty" cord
https://www.homedepot.com/p/Southwire-100-ft-10-3-SJEOW-Outdoor-Heavy-Duty-T-Prene-Extension-Cord-with-Power-Light-Plug-1789SW0002/203066459

SJEOW cord is about as tough as you get in the consumer market
S= hard service
J= Junior (300v)
E= Thermoplastic Elastomer
O= Oil resistant
W= Water Resistant.

I have never seen any zip cord that was 600v and that even includes
the large dryer and range cord.

SO cord is 600v but that is the heavy black rubber cord you see at a
carnival but you don't see much of that at the Home Depot.


600 volt NM-B 14/2G or 12/2G is the standard cable for residential use
in canada.


"MOST extention or attached power cords ARE 600 volt"

Cords are not cables. I already said all chapter 3 conductors are 600v
or higher.

Extention cables without the J are 600 volt. All of my contractor
grade cords have no J. SOOW 14AWG and STW 14,, and SOOW 12

Zip cord is NOT an "extention cable" in my books!! It's "Lamp cord" or
"speaker wire"

They hook up cooktops and dryers with 10 ga zip cord.

https://www.homedepot.com/p/HDX-6-ft...-833/100672782

That's parallel conductor flexible cable but not what I would call
"zip cord" It's common on "flat plug" extention cords but has much
heavier insulation than "zip cord" which is usuallyconsidered to be 2
wire

There ARE a lot of 300 volt ones out there too, I see - but in the
garage or hangar and on job sites we see a lot of 600 volt.

I don't see a lot of SO cord but I suppose it is out there.

We have higher safety standards up here which may be why they are more
common here than down there.

On Monday, February 24, 2020 at 9:20:09 PM UTC-5, Clare Snyder wrote:
On Mon, 24 Feb 2020 18:33:23 -0500, wrote:

On Mon, 24 Feb 2020 13:04:33 -0800 (PST), TimR
wrote:

On Sunday, February 23, 2020 at 9:36:08 AM UTC-5, Dean Hoffman wrote:


One of the pictures shows the male end marked as 125/250 volt
with four prongs. The female end is marked as 125 volt with three
openings. The connector loses one hot leg in the transition.

Not being argumentative, asking because I don't know. Even though I should.

That circuit can supply 30 A at 240V on both hot legs.

The adapter will use one leg and get 120V. No problem, the treadmill is 120V. But the treadmill uses 17A. Is there still 30A available off just one leg? Or is there half of that, only 15A available?

It is a single phase 120v 30a circuit. The plug itself is not legal
unless there is over current protection built in but I guess nobody
ever pointed that out. I suppose they could put a 20a fusible link in
there but it probably would not be replaceable.


Are you sure?? A 20 amp outlet is also a 15 amp outlet - and WILL be
fuded at 20 amps. The fuse is to protect the WIRING - not the device.

But part of the design of the plug, cord, internals of any appliance
is that it's going to be plugged into a circuit that was designed for
that plug. In this case, using that adapter, Fretwell has a point,
you could plug a 15 or 20A appliance into
a 30A circuit. If the cord shorts, the designers were expecting it
to be fused at no more than 20A. Is it a big deal in the real world
that's going to create fires? Probably not. But it doesn't sound
code compliant either.






As long as the adapter is rated to handle 30 amos it is legal and
safe. (Legal if it has UL or CSA approval - not legal without even if
it had a 15 amp fuse in it)