I am trying to insulate my basement walls. They are cinderblock and I have had
no leaking or moisture issues. My question is can I drill into the cinderblock
to hang the framing wood so I can hang drywall or will this cause problems
drilling to cinderblocks. I am using insulation foam then 1x4 over the foam
boards so I can then attach the drywall to the board. What screws/nails do I
use?

--
for full context, visit https://www.homeownershub.com/mainte...n-1180751-.htm

On 11/21/2018 10:44 PM, Sarah wrote:
I am trying to insulate my basement walls. They are cinderblock and I
have had
no leaking or moisture issues. My question is can I drill into the
cinderblock
to hang the framing wood so I can hang drywall or will this cause problems
drilling to cinderblocks. I am using insulation foam then 1x4 over the foam
boards so I can then attach the drywall to the board. What screws/nails
do I
use?

An easy way to to just glue on panels www.insofast.com and the studs are
already in place. I used them on my foundation and they are simple and
fast.

On Thu, 22 Nov 2018 03:44:03 GMT, Sarah
m wrote:

I am trying to insulate my basement walls. They are cinderblock and I have had
no leaking or moisture issues. My question is can I drill into the cinderblock
to hang the framing wood so I can hang drywall or will this cause problems
drilling to cinderblocks. I am using insulation foam then 1x4 over the foam
boards so I can then attach the drywall to the board. What screws/nails do I
use?

You can either use a shot pin gun or an air nailer with "hard" nails
(fast) or tap con screws (slow). If the block is dry you can even use
construction adhesive, probably the easiest. If there is any
significant moisture in the block some adhesives will not work well
but poly urethane seems to like some moisture.
The furring in my house (circa 1963) was put up with "cut" nails
(those bluish looking flat guys with the square end) but that is a lot
of hammering for a less than perfect connection. You need a big hammer
and try to sink it with one big swing. Tapping it in will not hold.

On Thu, 22 Nov 2018 03:44:03 GMT, Sarah
m wrote:

I am trying to insulate my basement walls. They are cinderblock and I have had
no leaking or moisture issues. My question is can I drill into the cinderblock
to hang the framing wood so I can hang drywall or will this cause problems
drilling to cinderblocks. I am using insulation foam then 1x4 over the foam
boards so I can then attach the drywall to the board. What screws/nails do I
use?



https://www.constructionprotips.com/...asement-walls/

https://www.familyhandyman.com/basem...ting/view-all/

http://basementgurus.com/framing-against-concrete/

On 11/21/2018 10:44 PM, Sarah wrote:
I am trying to insulate my basement walls. They are cinderblock and I
have had
no leaking or moisture issues. My question is can I drill into the
cinderblock
to hang the framing wood so I can hang drywall or will this cause problems
drilling to cinderblocks. I am using insulation foam then 1x4 over the foam
boards so I can then attach the drywall to the board. What screws/nails
do I
use?


Over 40 years since I did mine but did not connect to blocks following
directions of contractor friend. I put up a layer of polyethylene
sheeting first as moisture barrier then studs just connected to ceiling.
I put in fiber glass insulation and covered the walls with pegboard
for hanging tools since I was not completely finishing the basement but
just wanted to use it as a work area. I had painted the pegboard white
and concrete floor blue. It's held up fine after this long period.

On Thu, 22 Nov 2018 07:44:28 -0500, Frank "frank wrote:

On 11/21/2018 10:44 PM, Sarah wrote:
I am trying to insulate my basement walls. They are cinderblock and I
have had
no leaking or moisture issues. My question is can I drill into the
cinderblock
to hang the framing wood so I can hang drywall or will this cause problems
drilling to cinderblocks. I am using insulation foam then 1x4 over the foam
boards so I can then attach the drywall to the board. What screws/nails
do I
use?


Over 40 years since I did mine but did not connect to blocks following
directions of contractor friend. I put up a layer of polyethylene
sheeting first as moisture barrier then studs just connected to ceiling.
I put in fiber glass insulation and covered the walls with pegboard
for hanging tools since I was not completely finishing the basement but
just wanted to use it as a work area. I had painted the pegboard white
and concrete floor blue. It's held up fine after this long period.


Vapor barrier on the warm side is critical.

On 11/22/2018 9:02 AM, wrote:
On Thu, 22 Nov 2018 07:44:28 -0500, Frank "frank wrote:

On 11/21/2018 10:44 PM, Sarah wrote:
I am trying to insulate my basement walls. They are cinderblock and I
have had
no leaking or moisture issues. My question is can I drill into the
cinderblock
to hang the framing wood so I can hang drywall or will this cause problems
drilling to cinderblocks. I am using insulation foam then 1x4 over the foam
boards so I can then attach the drywall to the board. What screws/nails
do I
use?


Over 40 years since I did mine but did not connect to blocks following
directions of contractor friend. I put up a layer of polyethylene
sheeting first as moisture barrier then studs just connected to ceiling.
I put in fiber glass insulation and covered the walls with pegboard
for hanging tools since I was not completely finishing the basement but
just wanted to use it as a work area. I had painted the pegboard white
and concrete floor blue. It's held up fine after this long period.


Vapor barrier on the warm side is critical.

And above proposed plastic against the outside cold surface a recipe for
condensation...

--

On Thursday, November 22, 2018 at 7:44:35 AM UTC-5, Frank wrote:
On 11/21/2018 10:44 PM, Sarah wrote:
I am trying to insulate my basement walls. They are cinderblock and I
have had
no leaking or moisture issues. My question is can I drill into the
cinderblock
to hang the framing wood so I can hang drywall or will this cause problems
drilling to cinderblocks. I am using insulation foam then 1x4 over the foam
boards so I can then attach the drywall to the board. What screws/nails
do I
use?


Over 40 years since I did mine but did not connect to blocks following
directions of contractor friend. I put up a layer of polyethylene
sheeting first as moisture barrier then studs just connected to ceiling.

Floor?
I'd connect to ceiling joists and to the floor. I don't see the need for
doing anything with the walls either. In above grade construction, the
studs are only framed that way. No sense doing more work and making any
holes in block walls that can only help create water incursion points.

On Thu, 22 Nov 2018 03:44:03 GMT, Sarah
m wrote:

I am trying to insulate my basement walls. They are cinderblock and I have had
no leaking or moisture issues. My question is can I drill into the cinderblock
to hang the framing wood so I can hang drywall or will this cause problems
drilling to cinderblocks. I am using insulation foam then 1x4 over the foam
boards so I can then attach the drywall to the board. What screws/nails do I
use?
Yopu can useTapCon screws, but you CAN also just glue the strapping
to the concrete bloxk, or bettewr yet build a free-standing2X2 wall
and fasten it to the floor and the ceiling joists. Doing my daughter's
basement we glued pinkfoam insulation to the concrete, taping all
joints to providevapor barrier, then set up a 2X4 framed wall against
that,insulated with 3 1/2 inch rockwool batts, then installed
fiberglass faced drywall on the surface. W lost a foot of width but
got R24 out of the deal.

On Wed, 21 Nov 2018 22:58:31 -0500, Ed Pawlowski wrote:

On 11/21/2018 10:44 PM, Sarah wrote:
I am trying to insulate my basement walls. They are cinderblock and I
have had
no leaking or moisture issues. My question is can I drill into the
cinderblock
to hang the framing wood so I can hang drywall or will this cause problems
drilling to cinderblocks. I am using insulation foam then 1x4 over the foam
boards so I can then attach the drywall to the board. What screws/nails
do I
use?

An easy way to to just glue on panels www.insofast.com and the studs are
already in place. I used them on my foundation and they are simple and
fast.
Looks like a good product/solution.

On Thu, 22 Nov 2018 10:02:42 -0500, wrote:

On Thu, 22 Nov 2018 07:44:28 -0500, Frank "frank wrote:

On 11/21/2018 10:44 PM, Sarah wrote:
I am trying to insulate my basement walls. They are cinderblock and I
have had
no leaking or moisture issues. My question is can I drill into the
cinderblock
to hang the framing wood so I can hang drywall or will this cause problems
drilling to cinderblocks. I am using insulation foam then 1x4 over the foam
boards so I can then attach the drywall to the board. What screws/nails
do I
use?


Over 40 years since I did mine but did not connect to blocks following
directions of contractor friend. I put up a layer of polyethylene
sheeting first as moisture barrier then studs just connected to ceiling.
I put in fiber glass insulation and covered the walls with pegboard
for hanging tools since I was not completely finishing the basement but
just wanted to use it as a work area. I had painted the pegboard white
and concrete floor blue. It's held up fine after this long period.


Vapor barrier on the warm side is critical.
Mixed viws on vapor barrier and basement walls. Which is the "warm
side"????

Common practice today appears to be vapor barrier against the concrete
(styrofoam SM or foil backed IsoFoam more often than poly film)
followed by vapor permeable rock wool insulation on the "conditioned"
side.

On 11/22/2018 12:05 PM, Clare Snyder wrote:
On Thu, 22 Nov 2018 10:02:42 -0500, wrote:

On Thu, 22 Nov 2018 07:44:28 -0500, Frank "frank wrote:

On 11/21/2018 10:44 PM, Sarah wrote:
I am trying to insulate my basement walls. They are cinderblock and I
have had
no leaking or moisture issues. My question is can I drill into the
cinderblock
to hang the framing wood so I can hang drywall or will this cause problems
drilling to cinderblocks. I am using insulation foam then 1x4 over the foam
boards so I can then attach the drywall to the board. What screws/nails
do I
use?


Over 40 years since I did mine but did not connect to blocks following
directions of contractor friend. I put up a layer of polyethylene
sheeting first as moisture barrier then studs just connected to ceiling.
I put in fiber glass insulation and covered the walls with pegboard
for hanging tools since I was not completely finishing the basement but
just wanted to use it as a work area. I had painted the pegboard white
and concrete floor blue. It's held up fine after this long period.


Vapor barrier on the warm side is critical.
Mixed viws on vapor barrier and basement walls. Which is the "warm
side"????

Common practice today appears to be vapor barrier against the concrete
(styrofoam SM or foil backed IsoFoam more often than poly film)
followed by vapor permeable rock wool insulation on the "conditioned"
side.


Read all comments, and as I wrote, it has been over 40 years but no
problems. Only about 1 and a half walls done and full wall is
completely above ground and other sloping. Other parts of wall
unfinished, just painted, and fourth wall separates from finished
basement family room. I'm not an expert but it worked for me.

On 11/22/2018 12:26 PM, Frank wrote:
....

Read all comments, and as I wrote, it has been over 40 years but no
problems.Â* Only about 1 and a half walls done and full wall is
completely above ground and other sloping.Â* Other parts of wall
unfinished, just painted, and fourth wall separates from finished
basement family room. I'm not an expert but it worked for me.

Have you had reason to look behind that finished wall?

I did the same thing about 40 yr ago and thought the same about
"success" for almost 25+ yr until had need to extend some wiring to a
new outlet location. Behind the sheetrock there was nothing left altho
didn't show through the surface (yet).

--

On 11/22/2018 2:36 PM, dpb wrote:
On 11/22/2018 12:26 PM, Frank wrote:
...

Read all comments, and as I wrote, it has been over 40 years but no
problems.Â* Only about 1 and a half walls done and full wall is
completely above ground and other sloping.Â* Other parts of wall
unfinished, just painted, and fourth wall separates from finished
basement family room. I'm not an expert but it worked for me.

Have you had reason to look behind that finished wall?

I did the same thing about 40 yr ago and thought the same about
"success" for almost 25+ yr until had need to extend some wiring to a
new outlet location.Â* Behind the sheetrock there was nothing left altho
didn't show through the surface (yet).

--
I'll leave that to the next home owner. We also put a water repellent
coating on the exposed block exterior.

There is no plumbing or wiring where I finished the block.

I did a stint in real estate many years ago and thread reminds me of
house with paneled finished basement with a water mark all around the
walls about a foot from the floor. Basements like that should never be
finished.

On Thu, 22 Nov 2018 12:05:43 -0500, Clare Snyder
wrote:

On Thu, 22 Nov 2018 10:02:42 -0500, wrote:

On Thu, 22 Nov 2018 07:44:28 -0500, Frank "frank wrote:

On 11/21/2018 10:44 PM, Sarah wrote:
I am trying to insulate my basement walls. They are cinderblock and I
have had
no leaking or moisture issues. My question is can I drill into the
cinderblock
to hang the framing wood so I can hang drywall or will this cause problems
drilling to cinderblocks. I am using insulation foam then 1x4 over the foam
boards so I can then attach the drywall to the board. What screws/nails
do I
use?


Over 40 years since I did mine but did not connect to blocks following
directions of contractor friend. I put up a layer of polyethylene
sheeting first as moisture barrier then studs just connected to ceiling.
I put in fiber glass insulation and covered the walls with pegboard
for hanging tools since I was not completely finishing the basement but
just wanted to use it as a work area. I had painted the pegboard white
and concrete floor blue. It's held up fine after this long period.


Vapor barrier on the warm side is critical.
Mixed viws on vapor barrier and basement walls. Which is the "warm
side"????

Common practice today appears to be vapor barrier against the concrete
(styrofoam SM or foil backed IsoFoam more often than poly film)
followed by vapor permeable rock wool insulation on the "conditioned"
side.
Unfortunately that becomes a science fair project as the moisture
builds up in the rock wool over time.
In a basement you are always going to have moisture problems ... from
both directions ... unless you live in the desert.

On Thu, 22 Nov 2018 14:56:32 -0500, wrote:

On Thu, 22 Nov 2018 12:05:43 -0500, Clare Snyder
wrote:

On Thu, 22 Nov 2018 10:02:42 -0500, wrote:

On Thu, 22 Nov 2018 07:44:28 -0500, Frank "frank wrote:

On 11/21/2018 10:44 PM, Sarah wrote:
I am trying to insulate my basement walls. They are cinderblock and I
have had
no leaking or moisture issues. My question is can I drill into the
cinderblock
to hang the framing wood so I can hang drywall or will this cause problems
drilling to cinderblocks. I am using insulation foam then 1x4 over the foam
boards so I can then attach the drywall to the board. What screws/nails
do I
use?


Over 40 years since I did mine but did not connect to blocks following
directions of contractor friend. I put up a layer of polyethylene
sheeting first as moisture barrier then studs just connected to ceiling.
I put in fiber glass insulation and covered the walls with pegboard
for hanging tools since I was not completely finishing the basement but
just wanted to use it as a work area. I had painted the pegboard white
and concrete floor blue. It's held up fine after this long period.


Vapor barrier on the warm side is critical.
Mixed viws on vapor barrier and basement walls. Which is the "warm
side"????

Common practice today appears to be vapor barrier against the concrete
(styrofoam SM or foil backed IsoFoam more often than poly film)
followed by vapor permeable rock wool insulation on the "conditioned"
side.
Unfortunately that becomes a science fair project as the moisture
builds up in the rock wool over time.
In a basement you are always going to have moisture problems ... from
both directions ... unless you live in the desert.
Thats the beauty of rock-wool. It doesn't hold or wick moisture . It
is "moisture permeable" so it breathes.

From the Rockwool website:

ROCKWOOL insulation is moisture resistant yet vapor permeable. In the
event the insulation becomes damp or wet, the insulation, when
thoroughly dried, will maintain the original performance
characteristics.

ROCKWOOL stone wool insulation does not wick water, which means that
any bulk water that contacts the outer surface will drain and not be
absorbed into the body of the insulation

ROCKWOOL products are inorganic which provide no food source for mold
to grow. ROCKWOOL products are tested to ASTM C1338 – A Standard Test
for Determining Fungi Resistance – and passes with zero fungal growth.

EcoHome .net recommends exactly what I did. - EPS or rockwool board
against the concrete as thermal breake, then framed wall with
Rockwool. The stud wallshould NOT contact the concrete floor. I used
DriCore subfloor under the walls which allows drainage of any
condensate under the walls and under the subfloor

The Ontario Government regulations also allow EPS against the concrete
wall as the vapor barrier()and thermal break)

On Thu, 22 Nov 2018 16:55:04 -0500, Clare Snyder
wrote:

On Thu, 22 Nov 2018 14:56:32 -0500, wrote:

On Thu, 22 Nov 2018 12:05:43 -0500, Clare Snyder
wrote:

On Thu, 22 Nov 2018 10:02:42 -0500, wrote:

On Thu, 22 Nov 2018 07:44:28 -0500, Frank "frank wrote:

On 11/21/2018 10:44 PM, Sarah wrote:
I am trying to insulate my basement walls. They are cinderblock and I
have had
no leaking or moisture issues. My question is can I drill into the
cinderblock
to hang the framing wood so I can hang drywall or will this cause problems
drilling to cinderblocks. I am using insulation foam then 1x4 over the foam
boards so I can then attach the drywall to the board. What screws/nails
do I
use?


Over 40 years since I did mine but did not connect to blocks following
directions of contractor friend. I put up a layer of polyethylene
sheeting first as moisture barrier then studs just connected to ceiling.
I put in fiber glass insulation and covered the walls with pegboard
for hanging tools since I was not completely finishing the basement but
just wanted to use it as a work area. I had painted the pegboard white
and concrete floor blue. It's held up fine after this long period.


Vapor barrier on the warm side is critical.
Mixed viws on vapor barrier and basement walls. Which is the "warm
side"????

Common practice today appears to be vapor barrier against the concrete
(styrofoam SM or foil backed IsoFoam more often than poly film)
followed by vapor permeable rock wool insulation on the "conditioned"
side.
Unfortunately that becomes a science fair project as the moisture
builds up in the rock wool over time.
In a basement you are always going to have moisture problems ... from
both directions ... unless you live in the desert.
Thats the beauty of rock-wool. It doesn't hold or wick moisture . It
is "moisture permeable" so it breathes.

From the Rockwool website:

ROCKWOOL insulation is moisture resistant yet vapor permeable. In the
event the insulation becomes damp or wet, the insulation, when
thoroughly dried, will maintain the original performance
characteristics.

ROCKWOOL stone wool insulation does not wick water, which means that
any bulk water that contacts the outer surface will drain and not be
absorbed into the body of the insulation

ROCKWOOL products are inorganic which provide no food source for mold
to grow. ROCKWOOL products are tested to ASTM C1338 €“ A Standard Test
for Determining Fungi Resistance €“ and passes with zero fungal growth.

EcoHome .net recommends exactly what I did. - EPS or rockwool board
against the concrete as thermal breake, then framed wall with
Rockwool. The stud wallshould NOT contact the concrete floor. I used
DriCore subfloor under the walls which allows drainage of any
condensate under the walls and under the subfloor

The Ontario Government regulations also allow EPS against the concrete
wall as the vapor barrier()and thermal break)

The problem is that in a basement with a high humidity, the moisture
will not go anywhere. It is still going to be there. Wherever you have
water, Stuff grows.

On Thu, 22 Nov 2018 18:57:30 -0500, wrote:

On Thu, 22 Nov 2018 16:55:04 -0500, Clare Snyder
wrote:

On Thu, 22 Nov 2018 14:56:32 -0500, wrote:

On Thu, 22 Nov 2018 12:05:43 -0500, Clare Snyder
wrote:

On Thu, 22 Nov 2018 10:02:42 -0500, wrote:

On Thu, 22 Nov 2018 07:44:28 -0500, Frank "frank wrote:

On 11/21/2018 10:44 PM, Sarah wrote:
I am trying to insulate my basement walls. They are cinderblock and I
have had
no leaking or moisture issues. My question is can I drill into the
cinderblock
to hang the framing wood so I can hang drywall or will this cause problems
drilling to cinderblocks. I am using insulation foam then 1x4 over the foam
boards so I can then attach the drywall to the board. What screws/nails
do I
use?


Over 40 years since I did mine but did not connect to blocks following
directions of contractor friend. I put up a layer of polyethylene
sheeting first as moisture barrier then studs just connected to ceiling.
I put in fiber glass insulation and covered the walls with pegboard
for hanging tools since I was not completely finishing the basement but
just wanted to use it as a work area. I had painted the pegboard white
and concrete floor blue. It's held up fine after this long period.


Vapor barrier on the warm side is critical.
Mixed viws on vapor barrier and basement walls. Which is the "warm
side"????

Common practice today appears to be vapor barrier against the concrete
(styrofoam SM or foil backed IsoFoam more often than poly film)
followed by vapor permeable rock wool insulation on the "conditioned"
side.
Unfortunately that becomes a science fair project as the moisture
builds up in the rock wool over time.
In a basement you are always going to have moisture problems ... from
both directions ... unless you live in the desert.
Thats the beauty of rock-wool. It doesn't hold or wick moisture . It
is "moisture permeable" so it breathes.

From the Rockwool website:

ROCKWOOL insulation is moisture resistant yet vapor permeable. In the
event the insulation becomes damp or wet, the insulation, when
thoroughly dried, will maintain the original performance
characteristics.

ROCKWOOL stone wool insulation does not wick water, which means that
any bulk water that contacts the outer surface will drain and not be
absorbed into the body of the insulation

ROCKWOOL products are inorganic which provide no food source for mold
to grow. ROCKWOOL products are tested to ASTM C1338 – A Standard Test
for Determining Fungi Resistance – and passes with zero fungal growth.

EcoHome .net recommends exactly what I did. - EPS or rockwool board
against the concrete as thermal breake, then framed wall with
Rockwool. The stud wallshould NOT contact the concrete floor. I used
DriCore subfloor under the walls which allows drainage of any
condensate under the walls and under the subfloor

The Ontario Government regulations also allow EPS against the concrete
wall as the vapor barrier()and thermal break)

The problem is that in a basement with a high humidity, the moisture
will not go anywhere. It is still going to be there. Wherever you have
water, Stuff grows.
I guess you've never heard of a de-humidifier?? (only needed during
the summer, late spring, and early fall up here)