View Single Post
  #17   Report Post  
Posted to alt.home.repair
[email protected] gfretwell@aol.com is offline
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 14,141
Default Can I drill into my cinderblocks exterior wall in my basement

On Thu, 22 Nov 2018 16:55:04 -0500, Clare Snyder
wrote:

On Thu, 22 Nov 2018 14:56:32 -0500, wrote:

On Thu, 22 Nov 2018 12:05:43 -0500, Clare Snyder
wrote:

On Thu, 22 Nov 2018 10:02:42 -0500,
wrote:

On Thu, 22 Nov 2018 07:44:28 -0500, Frank "frank wrote:

On 11/21/2018 10:44 PM, Sarah wrote:
I am trying to insulate my basement walls. They are cinderblock and I
have had
no leaking or moisture issues. My question is can I drill into the
cinderblock
to hang the framing wood so I can hang drywall or will this cause problems
drilling to cinderblocks. I am using insulation foam then 1x4 over the foam
boards so I can then attach the drywall to the board. What screws/nails
do I
use?


Over 40 years since I did mine but did not connect to blocks following
directions of contractor friend. I put up a layer of polyethylene
sheeting first as moisture barrier then studs just connected to ceiling.
I put in fiber glass insulation and covered the walls with pegboard
for hanging tools since I was not completely finishing the basement but
just wanted to use it as a work area. I had painted the pegboard white
and concrete floor blue. It's held up fine after this long period.


Vapor barrier on the warm side is critical.
Mixed viws on vapor barrier and basement walls. Which is the "warm
side"????

Common practice today appears to be vapor barrier against the concrete
(styrofoam SM or foil backed IsoFoam more often than poly film)
followed by vapor permeable rock wool insulation on the "conditioned"
side.

Unfortunately that becomes a science fair project as the moisture
builds up in the rock wool over time.
In a basement you are always going to have moisture problems ... from
both directions ... unless you live in the desert.

Thats the beauty of rock-wool. It doesn't hold or wick moisture . It
is "moisture permeable" so it breathes.

From the Rockwool website:

ROCKWOOL insulation is moisture resistant yet vapor permeable. In the
event the insulation becomes damp or wet, the insulation, when
thoroughly dried, will maintain the original performance
characteristics.

ROCKWOOL stone wool insulation does not wick water, which means that
any bulk water that contacts the outer surface will drain and not be
absorbed into the body of the insulation

ROCKWOOL products are inorganic which provide no food source for mold
to grow. ROCKWOOL products are tested to ASTM C1338 €“ A Standard Test
for Determining Fungi Resistance €“ and passes with zero fungal growth.

EcoHome .net recommends exactly what I did. - EPS or rockwool board
against the concrete as thermal breake, then framed wall with
Rockwool. The stud wallshould NOT contact the concrete floor. I used
DriCore subfloor under the walls which allows drainage of any
condensate under the walls and under the subfloor

The Ontario Government regulations also allow EPS against the concrete
wall as the vapor barrier()and thermal break)


The problem is that in a basement with a high humidity, the moisture
will not go anywhere. It is still going to be there. Wherever you have
water, Stuff grows.