As subject header...

6 brand new metal boxes are countersunk into the blockwork walls in the
kitchen. The block work walls are then plastered using thistle hardwall
base coat and Thistle skim coat.

When doing 2nd fix eletrics it is found that one of the screw hole lugs
on one of the new metal back boxes has no thread so only one screw
instead of two can be used to secure double socket faceplate to the new
back box.

Are there any better solutions than digging out the new metal back box,
fitting new box and redoing plaster around the replacement box?

Regards

Stephen.

On 05/07/2014 23:38, Stephen wrote:
As subject header...

6 brand new metal boxes are countersunk into the blockwork walls in the
kitchen. The block work walls are then plastered using thistle hardwall
base coat and Thistle skim coat.

When doing 2nd fix eletrics it is found that one of the screw hole lugs
on one of the new metal back boxes has no thread so only one screw
instead of two can be used to secure double socket faceplate to the new
back box.

Are there any better solutions than digging out the new metal back box,
fitting new box and redoing plaster around the replacement box?

You will be able to pick up a m3.5 hand tap from any electrical
wholesaler...

e.g.

http://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Products/BHM3dot5.html

just run it through the hole to create a thread.


--
Cheers,

John.

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On Sat, 05 Jul 2014 23:38:20 +0100, Stephen wrote:

Are there any better solutions than digging out the new metal back box,
fitting new box and redoing plaster around the replacement box?

Yes, a 3.5 mm tap to cut a thread in the hole. Any electrical
wholesaler should have 'em, not seen in DIY sheds.

--
Cheers
Dave.

"John Rumm" wrote in message
o.uk...
On 05/07/2014 23:38, Stephen wrote:
As subject header...

6 brand new metal boxes are countersunk into the blockwork walls in the
kitchen. The block work walls are then plastered using thistle hardwall
base coat and Thistle skim coat.

When doing 2nd fix eletrics it is found that one of the screw hole lugs
on one of the new metal back boxes has no thread so only one screw
instead of two can be used to secure double socket faceplate to the new
back box.

Are there any better solutions than digging out the new metal back box,
fitting new box and redoing plaster around the replacement box?

You will be able to pick up a m3.5 hand tap from any electrical
wholesaler...

e.g.

http://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Products/BHM3dot5.html

just run it through the hole to create a thread.



Unless of course the hole is already bigger than a 3.5 tap. Then you have to
glue a new lug behind the old one. Or if it is the adjustable lug then you
can usually swap it with one from another backbox.

--
Adam

Depends if you have room to temp glue a nut behind the lug where the thread
has gone, I suppose. It would cause some concern when you try to get the
screw out some years down the line though. I have done this, and it worked,
but I have to admit it was a bodge. Grin.
Brian

--
From the Sofa of Brian Gaff Reply address is active
"Stephen" wrote in message
...
As subject header...

6 brand new metal boxes are countersunk into the blockwork walls in the
kitchen. The block work walls are then plastered using thistle hardwall
base coat and Thistle skim coat.

When doing 2nd fix eletrics it is found that one of the screw hole lugs on
one of the new metal back boxes has no thread so only one screw instead of
two can be used to secure double socket faceplate to the new back box.

Are there any better solutions than digging out the new metal back box,
fitting new box and redoing plaster around the replacement box?

Regards

Stephen.

On 06/07/14 09:12, Brian Gaff wrote:
Depends if you have room to temp glue a nut behind the lug where the thread
has gone, I suppose. It would cause some concern when you try to get the
screw out some years down the line though. I have done this, and it worked,
but I have to admit it was a bodge. Grin.

I bodged a tapped hole in the back of the box (light switch) with a
longer screw to reach. The existing lug hole was too large and I
couldn't glue a nut to the back of it for some reason I forget.

--
Adrian C

On 06/07/14 07:30, ARW wrote:

Unless of course the hole is already bigger than a 3.5 tap. Then you
have to glue a new lug behind the old one. Or if it is the adjustable
lug then you can usually swap it with one from another backbox.


Or enlarge the hole a bit to take a nutsert (insert)...

"Tim Watts" wrote in message
...
On 06/07/14 07:30, ARW wrote:

Unless of course the hole is already bigger than a 3.5 tap. Then you
have to glue a new lug behind the old one. Or if it is the adjustable
lug then you can usually swap it with one from another backbox.


Or enlarge the hole a bit to take a nutsert (insert)...


Or use a M4 rethreader and M4 screw.

--
Adam

On Saturday, July 5, 2014 11:38:20 PM UTC+1, Stephen wrote:
Are there any better solutions than digging out the new metal back box,
fitting new box and redoing plaster around the replacement box?

Fix it with one screw and hold the other screw in with blutack to be cosmetic.

Then remember not to use that socket in case it's wobbly.

Of course if you're a professional electrician working in someone else's kitchen you can superglue the socket to the plaster.

Owain

/
Of course if you're a professional electrician working in someone else's kitchen you can superglue the socket to the plaster.

Owain/q

Not forgetting to superglue the screw in place too....

Oh and "forget" to finish the bonding to kitchen sink copper pipework, after threading 20m of single through a difficult crawl space, then test "everything" & sign it all off.....

Jim K

JimK wrote:

Oh and "forget" to finish the bonding to kitchen sink copper
pipework, after threading 20m of single through a difficult crawl
space, then test "everything" & sign it all off.....

A few years ago when I re-did my kitchen, I was hacking off some plaster
and encountered a solitary earth cable running across a wall, it was
heading towards the water stopcock via a 6' gap where the kitchen
extension had been build - I chipped away enough to confirm that yep,
angle grinder clean through the cable at both ends, presumably the
builders retrieved and "hid" the middle section of cable to avoid any
awkward questions ... thankfully it wasn't difficult to find another
route under stairs, across the landing and down by the soil stack to
reach the stopcock.

On 06/07/14 14:37, wrote:

Of course if you're a professional electrician working in someone else's kitchen you can superglue the socket to the plaster.

I saw some sockets in a kitchen the other day that were siliconed into
place. Perhaps this was why...

On 06/07/14 14:30, ARW wrote:
"Tim Watts" wrote in message
...
On 06/07/14 07:30, ARW wrote:

Unless of course the hole is already bigger than a 3.5 tap. Then you
have to glue a new lug behind the old one. Or if it is the adjustable
lug then you can usually swap it with one from another backbox.


Or enlarge the hole a bit to take a nutsert (insert)...


Or use a M4 rethreader and M4 screw.


Sir - Did you suggest a reasonable and simple solution not involving:


a) Angle grinder;

b) Unusual technology;

c) Unusual but expensive tools;

On Saturday, July 5, 2014 11:38:20 PM UTC+1, Stephen wrote:
As subject header...
6 brand new metal boxes are countersunk into the blockwork walls in the
kitchen. The block work walls are then plastered using thistle hardwall
base coat and Thistle skim coat.
When doing 2nd fix eletrics it is found that one of the screw hole lugs
on one of the new metal back boxes has no thread so only one screw
instead of two can be used to secure double socket faceplate to the new
back box.
Are there any better solutions than digging out the new metal back box,
fitting new box and redoing plaster around the replacement box?
Regards
Stephen.

Once I couldnt use an M3.5 tap to sort it, I forget why, and just used a woodscrew of exactly the right diameter. The screwheads dont look quite right though.


NT

On 06/07/2014 20:50, Tim Watts wrote:
On 06/07/14 14:30, ARW wrote:
"Tim Watts" wrote in message
...
On 06/07/14 07:30, ARW wrote:

Unless of course the hole is already bigger than a 3.5 tap. Then you
have to glue a new lug behind the old one. Or if it is the adjustable
lug then you can usually swap it with one from another backbox.


Or enlarge the hole a bit to take a nutsert (insert)...


Or use a M4 rethreader and M4 screw.


Sir - Did you suggest a reasonable and simple solution not involving:


a) Angle grinder;

b) Unusual technology;

c) Unusual but expensive tools;

You forgot car body filler - although to be fair that might actually work!

--
Cheers,

John.

/================================================== ===============\
| Internode Ltd - http://www.internode.co.uk |
|-----------------------------------------------------------------|
| John Rumm - john(at)internode(dot)co(dot)uk |
\================================================= ================/

On 05/07/2014 23:38, Stephen wrote:
As subject header...

6 brand new metal boxes are countersunk into the blockwork walls in the
kitchen. The block work walls are then plastered using thistle hardwall
base coat and Thistle skim coat.

When doing 2nd fix eletrics it is found that one of the screw hole lugs
on one of the new metal back boxes has no thread so only one screw
instead of two can be used to secure double socket faceplate to the new
back box.

Are there any better solutions than digging out the new metal back box,
fitting new box and redoing plaster around the replacement box?

Regards

Stephen.

I've "got away" with a stripped 3.5 thread by finding a slightly larger
self tapping screw from my large collection.

On 06/07/2014 22:46, wrote:
On Saturday, July 5, 2014 11:38:20 PM UTC+1, Stephen wrote:
As subject header... 6 brand new metal boxes are countersunk into
the blockwork walls in the kitchen. The block work walls are then
plastered using thistle hardwall base coat and Thistle skim coat.
When doing 2nd fix eletrics it is found that one of the screw hole
lugs on one of the new metal back boxes has no thread so only one
screw instead of two can be used to secure double socket faceplate
to the new back box. Are there any better solutions than digging
out the new metal back box, fitting new box and redoing plaster
around the replacement box? Regards Stephen.

Once I couldnt use an M3.5 tap to sort it, I forget why, and just
used a woodscrew of exactly the right diameter. The screwheads dont
look quite right though.


NT


That would be a bodge I couldn't live with.

Using a mole wrench to slightly crush the hole (oval) and then running the
tap through it may work if the hole is already oversized.

"Tim Watts" wrote in message
...
On 06/07/14 14:30, ARW wrote:
"Tim Watts" wrote in message
...
On 06/07/14 07:30, ARW wrote:

Unless of course the hole is already bigger than a 3.5 tap. Then you
have to glue a new lug behind the old one. Or if it is the adjustable
lug then you can usually swap it with one from another backbox.


Or enlarge the hole a bit to take a nutsert (insert)...


Or use a M4 rethreader and M4 screw.


Sir - Did you suggest a reasonable and simple solution not involving:


a) Angle grinder;

b) Unusual technology;

c) Unusual but expensive tools;



I have another way. It depends on the depth of the back box and how slim
your fingers are. Remove an adjustable lug from a spare back box and just
hold it in place behind the knackered lug until the 3.5 screw bites the
"spare" adjustable lug.


--
Adam