Â* I got the penetration problem solved , I was loading the gun wrong
.... but I have one other question . Every pin I drive comes up with
thehead protrudingabout 1/4" from the work . I checked , and the piston
stops that same distance short of flush with the muzzle . I looked
around a little and it seems they come in different lengths ... but I
have no idea what the numbers mean , and haven't a clue which one I need
for it to come flush with the muzzle .

--
Snag
Yes , I'm old
and crochety .
Get off my lawn !

On Tue, 21 Aug 2018 11:20:58 -0500, Terry Coombs
wrote:

* I got the penetration problem solved , I was loading the gun wrong
... but I have one other question . Every pin I drive comes up with
thehead protrudingabout 1/4" from the work . I checked , and the piston
stops that same distance short of flush with the muzzle . I looked
around a little and it seems they come in different lengths ... but I
have no idea what the numbers mean , and haven't a clue which one I need
for it to come flush with the muzzle .

Does the pins "color match" the ammo? Isn't there a color scheme,
maybe on the ammo cartridge box.

On Tue, 21 Aug 2018 11:20:58 -0500, Terry Coombs
wrote:

Â* I got the penetration problem solved , I was loading the gun wrong
... but I have one other question . Every pin I drive comes up with
thehead protrudingabout 1/4" from the work . I checked , and the piston
stops that same distance short of flush with the muzzle . I looked
around a little and it seems they come in different lengths ... but I
have no idea what the numbers mean , and haven't a clue which one I need
for it to come flush with the muzzle .
Are you sure the gun isn't just dirty?

On 8/21/2018 11:20 AM, Terry Coombs wrote:
Â* I got the penetration problem solved , I was loading the gun wrong
... but I have one other question . Every pin I drive comes up with
thehead protrudingabout 1/4" from the work . I checked , and the piston
stops that same distance short of flush with the muzzle . I looked
around a little and it seems they come in different lengths ... but I
have no idea what the numbers mean , and haven't a clue which one I need
for it to come flush with the muzzle .

Which gun are you using?

To set the driving depth is somewhat experimental; you start with lowest
cartridge power and

1. Set the tool at lowest setting (1 is low).

2. Drive a fastener.

3. If doesn't penetrate deep enough, increase power level

Repeat 1 thru 3 until desired depth reached; if max out the power level
and still not enough, move up in cartridge (green to yellow, etc., ...)
and start over again.

I think you were in block? If so green definitely should provide plenty
of "oomph"; poured concrete "not so much".

--

On 8/21/2018 12:02 PM, wrote:
On Tue, 21 Aug 2018 11:20:58 -0500, Terry Coombs
wrote:

Â* I got the penetration problem solved , I was loading the gun wrong
... but I have one other question . Every pin I drive comes up with
thehead protrudingabout 1/4" from the work . I checked , and the piston
stops that same distance short of flush with the muzzle . I looked
around a little and it seems they come in different lengths ... but I
have no idea what the numbers mean , and haven't a clue which one I need
for it to come flush with the muzzle .
Are you sure the gun isn't just dirty?

Yup , damn sure . It was pretty gunked up when I got it , wouldn't even
fire . After a conversation with Tim at Hilti customer service we
determined that my piston has been modified - it had about 5/16" cut off
the tip , likely to use the specialty fasteners that came with it .
They're a short pin with a spacer collar of some kind , I have no idea
what their use is but they need to be installed with about 5/16"
protruding from the work surface . All fixed now , I just TIG welded a
short piece of steel to the tip . Used Invar42 , a nickel/iron alloy
meant for cast iron and other difficult stuff . I figgered the nickel
alloy being pretty ductile would be a good choice . I would have bought
a new piston , but the damn things are over 80 bucks by the time you get
delivery and taxes added . I only paid a hundred bucks for the gun !
Anyway , it's shooting well now and sinking the pins to just below flush
, which is what I was after . F-26 behind the wood and a good clamp load
will make this project one that should outlive me - and probably my kids .

--
Snag
Yes , I'm old
and crochety .
Get off my lawn !

On 08/21/2018 11:37 AM, Terry Coombs wrote:
Yup , damn sure . It was pretty gunked up when I got it , wouldn't even
fire . After a conversation with Tim at Hilti customer service we
determined that my piston has been modified - it had about 5/16" cut off
the tip , likely to use the specialty fasteners that came with it .
They're a short pin with a spacer collar of some kind , I have no idea
what their use is but they need to be installed with about 5/16"
protruding from the work surface .

It was back in the '70s so, like most things in the '70s, my memory is a
little fuzzy, but we were shooting studs with a collar and a threaded
portion. The collar would be flush with the threads sticking out about
3/8". We were hanging EMT for a new line and the threads were for the
EMT clamps.

The original plan was to drill for anchors but after a couple of those I
said screw this and sent my gopher down to the rental store for a Hilti.

On 8/21/2018 1:22 PM, rbowman wrote:
On 08/21/2018 11:37 AM, Terry Coombs wrote:
Yup , damn sure . It was pretty gunked up when I got it , wouldn't even
fire . After a conversation with Tim at Hilti customer service we
determined that my piston has been modified - it had about 5/16" cut off
the tip , likely to use the specialty fasteners that came with it .
They're a short pin with a spacer collar of some kind , I have no idea
what their use is but they need to be installed with about 5/16"
protruding from the work surface .

It was back in the '70s so, like most things in the '70s, my memory is
a little fuzzy, but we were shooting studs with a collar and a
threaded portion. The collar would be flush with the threads sticking
out about 3/8". We were hanging EMT for a new line and the threads
were for the EMT clamps.

The original plan was to drill for anchors but after a couple of those
I said screw this and sent my gopher down to the rental store for a
Hilti.

Â* They damnsure make it a lot easier to attach to concrete - and steel
.. Just looking at these pins that came with it , I think they might be
for attaching maybe brick ties to block walls . Or something else thin ,
or maybe suspension wires for a drop ceiling . Whatever , I got a
****load of 'em that I ain't never gonna use . But the extension I
welded on that piston has got 'em sinking just below flush . I was
concerned about mushrooming , but the piston is in contact with the pin
, so there's no impact force . If it does , I'll just case-harden it . I
thank God 'most every day for a wife that indulges my toolwhoredom . The
downside to that is that she expects miracles ... and sometimes she gets
one .

--
Snag
Yes , I'm old
and crochety .
Get off my lawn !

Terry Coombs posted for all of us...


toolwhoredom


I have this too. Unfortunately as I get older and do less and less I can't
justify this. I am trying to downsize and it seems I have to go out to buy a
screwdriver to do anything...

--
Tekkie

On 08/25/2018 02:58 PM, Tekkie® wrote:
Terry Coombs posted for all of us...


toolwhoredom


I have this too. Unfortunately as I get older and do less and less I can't
justify this. I am trying to downsize and it seems I have to go out to buy a
screwdriver to do anything...


What ****es me off is when I buy a screwdriver realizing full well I
have half a dozen around someplace...

I put a new fuel pump in the F150 two weeks ago. Not more than 15
minutes after I spent twice that rounding up the flare nut wrench,
sockets, extensions, and stupid pliers for the hose clamp.

$16 from Amazon and 15 minutes -- try that with a 2018 F150.