Oven conked out while cooking yesterday. Found 240V breaker tripped. Reset
it and tried again, Breaker tripped again. Now to figure out if problem is
in the breaker or the oven. I'm hoping the breaker.

Can't figure out how to tell which without replacing the breaker. I'm
afraid I'm not strong enough any more to pry that old breaker out of the
box so I'll have to call an expensive electrician.

Hoping breaker more likely to trip if worn out than oven to short circuit -
I'd think oven heating element would open up instead, but what do I know?

Guesses? Suggestions? I'd like to get my oven back at a reasonable cost,

TIA


--
I love a good meal! That's why I don't cook.

On 09/06/2017 08:43 AM, KenK wrote:
Oven conked out while cooking yesterday. Found 240V breaker tripped. Reset
it and tried again, Breaker tripped again. Now to figure out if problem is
in the breaker or the oven. I'm hoping the breaker.

Can't figure out how to tell which without replacing the breaker. I'm
afraid I'm not strong enough any more to pry that old breaker out of the
box so I'll have to call an expensive electrician.

Hoping breaker more likely to trip if worn out than oven to short circuit -
I'd think oven heating element would open up instead, but what do I know?

Guesses? Suggestions? I'd like to get my oven back at a reasonable cost,

TIA





Not likely to be a breaker.

Unplug the oven and see if the breaker trips.

If not, the oven is shorted.

OTOH: If it still trips, the problem could be in your wiring

On 9/6/2017 9:43 AM, KenK wrote:
Oven conked out while cooking yesterday. Found 240V breaker tripped. Reset
it and tried again, Breaker tripped again. Now to figure out if problem is
in the breaker or the oven. I'm hoping the breaker.

Can't figure out how to tell which without replacing the breaker. I'm
afraid I'm not strong enough any more to pry that old breaker out of the
box so I'll have to call an expensive electrician.

Hoping breaker more likely to trip if worn out than oven to short circuit -
I'd think oven heating element would open up instead, but what do I know?

Guesses? Suggestions? I'd like to get my oven back at a reasonable cost,

TIA



Rare that a breaker goes bad under normal circumstances. I'd bet on the
oven. When you said you tried it again, did you mean you turned the
oven on and it tripped again? If so, that would make it an oven, not
breaker problem.

Heating elements go bad on a regular basis. Sometimes they break, other
times they just short out. If you can get a good look at the element
you may even see the problem.

The element will only cost $20 to $30 and they are not difficult to
replace, but it may take more agility than you have. Figure about $100
for a service call if you go that route.

On 6 Sep 2017 13:43:41 GMT, KenK wrote:

Oven conked out while cooking yesterday. Found 240V breaker tripped. Reset
it and tried again, Breaker tripped again. Now to figure out if problem is
in the breaker or the oven. I'm hoping the breaker.

Can't figure out how to tell which without replacing the breaker. I'm
afraid I'm not strong enough any more to pry that old breaker out of the
box so I'll have to call an expensive electrician.

Hoping breaker more likely to trip if worn out than oven to short circuit -
I'd think oven heating element would open up instead, but what do I know?

Guesses? Suggestions? I'd like to get my oven back at a reasonable cost,

TIA

Bad element or a wire chafed and shorting out. There is not a hell of
a lot in an oven. It is basically a 5000 watt light bulb on a fancy
timer

On Wednesday, September 6, 2017 at 8:43:47 AM UTC-5, KenK wrote:
Oven conked out while cooking yesterday. Found 240V breaker tripped. Reset
it and tried again, Breaker tripped again. Now to figure out if problem is
in the breaker or the oven. I'm hoping the breaker.

Can't figure out how to tell which without replacing the breaker. I'm
afraid I'm not strong enough any more to pry that old breaker out of the
box so I'll have to call an expensive electrician.

Hoping breaker more likely to trip if worn out than oven to short circuit -
I'd think oven heating element would open up instead, but what do I know?

Guesses? Suggestions? I'd like to get my oven back at a reasonable cost,

TIA
--


Are you able to get at the oven elements? If so, turn off the breaker and of course wait for the oven to cool before running your fingers over the surface of the elements. The elements should be smooth over the entire surface.. If you feel a bulge or split in the surface of the element, that is an indication of a failure of the element. ヽ(ヅ)ノ

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0SY1uhvlBlQ

[8~{} Uncle Oven Monster

Try not to test it too much more before figuring it out, on the off chance it's a dead short.

Breakers last a long time turned on and off. They last a long time tripping on a slight overcurrent.

Their lifetime under dead shorts is greatly reduced.

Most likely you don't have one or you'd have heard an arc or noticed a smell, but be cautious anyway.

Pull the oven out and unplug it.

On Wednesday, September 6, 2017 at 10:38:53 AM UTC-4, Ed Pawlowski wrote:
On 9/6/2017 9:43 AM, KenK wrote:
Oven conked out while cooking yesterday. Found 240V breaker tripped. Reset
it and tried again, Breaker tripped again. Now to figure out if problem is
in the breaker or the oven. I'm hoping the breaker.

Can't figure out how to tell which without replacing the breaker. I'm
afraid I'm not strong enough any more to pry that old breaker out of the
box so I'll have to call an expensive electrician.

Hoping breaker more likely to trip if worn out than oven to short circuit -
I'd think oven heating element would open up instead, but what do I know?

Guesses? Suggestions? I'd like to get my oven back at a reasonable cost,

TIA



Rare that a breaker goes bad under normal circumstances. I'd bet on the
oven. When you said you tried it again, did you mean you turned the
oven on and it tripped again? If so, that would make it an oven, not
breaker problem.

Along those lines, does it trip with the oven off? If it trips
on oven bake, does it trip on broil?, etc. I'd agree the oven is
far more likely than the breaker.






Heating elements go bad on a regular basis. Sometimes they break, other
times they just short out. If you can get a good look at the element
you may even see the problem.

The element will only cost $20 to $30 and they are not difficult to
replace, but it may take more agility than you have. Figure about $100
for a service call if you go that route.


Here is a recent crazy story of how easy it is to jump to wrong conclusions
and go down the wrong track. I have a 5 year old Kitchenaid side by side
fridge. One morning I opened it up and there was no light, the control
panel display was out, etc. Not good, right? So, first thing I did was
go check the breaker panel. There was a tripped breaker. Not good right?
So, I reset the breaker, it held. I go back upstairs, fridge is still dead.
VEry bad, right? So, I pull it out, then test the outlet for power.
There is power there. Next I pull the back cover off the fridge, go online
looking for schematics, etc. to figure out what could be wrong. No breaker
or anything in the fridge. So, I plug it in and start tracing the wires
measuring continuity from the end of the plug to points in the fridge,
everything seems OK. I plug the fridge back in and start probing for AC
at various points, first it's there, then it looked like it was gone,
but with a test probe, you're never sure if what you saw was because the
probe moved a bit etc.

To make a long story short, what it turned out to be was the receptacle
was bad. This fridge is counter depth, they use one of those flat style
plugs where the cord winds up perpendicular to and against the wall.
I've seen those before, but this one, the cable comes off it at a 45 deg
angle, so there is always torque on the plug. I have no doubt that
contributed to the failure.

So, the only remaining mystery is why did the breaker trip? I pondered
that for a day, couldn't come up with a good reason, except maybe if
it was going on and off, it could have gotten to an overload that way,
but these new fridges use so little power and have overload protection,
that didn't seem likely. Finally it dawned on me. I was doing some
work in a rarely used bathroom and had turned the breaker for that off
a couple weeks earlier. When I went looking for a tripped breaker,
I saw one open, figured it had to be the fridge and reset that one.
The fridge breaker had never tripped, it was just the bad receptacle.
But I was happy, cost of the repair was just a receptacle and a morning
of screwing around. Also very lucky that I caught it and fixed it
without losing the food in the fridge.

trader_4 wrote in
:

On Wednesday, September 6, 2017 at 10:38:53 AM UTC-4, Ed Pawlowski
wrote:
On 9/6/2017 9:43 AM, KenK wrote:
Oven conked out while cooking yesterday. Found 240V breaker
tripped. Reset it and tried again, Breaker tripped again. Now to
figure out if problem is in the breaker or the oven. I'm hoping the
breaker.

Can't figure out how to tell which without replacing the breaker.
I'm afraid I'm not strong enough any more to pry that old breaker
out of the box so I'll have to call an expensive electrician.

Hoping breaker more likely to trip if worn out than oven to short
circuit - I'd think oven heating element would open up instead, but
what do I know?

Guesses? Suggestions? I'd like to get my oven back at a reasonable
cost,

TIA



Rare that a breaker goes bad under normal circumstances. I'd bet on
the oven. When you said you tried it again, did you mean you turned
the oven on and it tripped again? If so, that would make it an
oven, not breaker problem.

Along those lines, does it trip with the oven off?

Don't know. Just reset it. Will check tomorrow to see if it tripped.

If it trips
on oven bake, does it trip on broil?, etc. I'd agree the oven is
far more likely than the breaker.






Heating elements go bad on a regular basis. Sometimes they break,
other times they just short out. If you can get a good look at the
element you may even see the problem.

The element will only cost $20 to $30 and they are not difficult to
replace, but it may take more agility than you have. Figure about
$100 for a service call if you go that route.


Here is a recent crazy story of how easy it is to jump to wrong
conclusions and go down the wrong track. I have a 5 year old
Kitchenaid side by side fridge. One morning I opened it up and there
was no light, the control panel display was out, etc. Not good,
right? So, first thing I did was go check the breaker panel. There
was a tripped breaker. Not good right? So, I reset the breaker, it
held. I go back upstairs, fridge is still dead. VEry bad, right?
So, I pull it out, then test the outlet for power. There is power
there. Next I pull the back cover off the fridge, go online looking
for schematics, etc. to figure out what could be wrong. No breaker
or anything in the fridge. So, I plug it in and start tracing the
wires measuring continuity from the end of the plug to points in the
fridge, everything seems OK. I plug the fridge back in and start
probing for AC at various points, first it's there, then it looked
like it was gone, but with a test probe, you're never sure if what you
saw was because the probe moved a bit etc.

To make a long story short, what it turned out to be was the
receptacle was bad. This fridge is counter depth, they use one of
those flat style plugs where the cord winds up perpendicular to and
against the wall. I've seen those before, but this one, the cable
comes off it at a 45 deg angle, so there is always torque on the plug.
I have no doubt that contributed to the failure.

So, the only remaining mystery is why did the breaker trip? I
pondered that for a day, couldn't come up with a good reason, except
maybe if it was going on and off, it could have gotten to an overload
that way, but these new fridges use so little power and have overload
protection, that didn't seem likely. Finally it dawned on me. I was
doing some work in a rarely used bathroom and had turned the breaker
for that off a couple weeks earlier. When I went looking for a
tripped breaker, I saw one open, figured it had to be the fridge and
reset that one. The fridge breaker had never tripped, it was just the
bad receptacle. But I was happy, cost of the repair was just a
receptacle and a morning of screwing around. Also very lucky that I
caught it and fixed it without losing the food in the fridge.

I should be so lucky!




--
I love a good meal! That's why I don't cook.

On Wednesday, September 6, 2017 at 2:14:36 PM UTC-4, KenK wrote:


I should be so lucky!




If you don't have a story exactly like traders, you've never fixed anything.

On Wednesday, September 6, 2017 at 2:14:36 PM UTC-4, KenK wrote:
trader_4 wrote in
:

On Wednesday, September 6, 2017 at 10:38:53 AM UTC-4, Ed Pawlowski
wrote:
On 9/6/2017 9:43 AM, KenK wrote:
Oven conked out while cooking yesterday. Found 240V breaker
tripped. Reset it and tried again, Breaker tripped again. Now to
figure out if problem is in the breaker or the oven. I'm hoping the
breaker.

Can't figure out how to tell which without replacing the breaker.
I'm afraid I'm not strong enough any more to pry that old breaker
out of the box so I'll have to call an expensive electrician.

Hoping breaker more likely to trip if worn out than oven to short
circuit - I'd think oven heating element would open up instead, but
what do I know?

Guesses? Suggestions? I'd like to get my oven back at a reasonable
cost,

TIA



Rare that a breaker goes bad under normal circumstances. I'd bet on
the oven. When you said you tried it again, did you mean you turned
the oven on and it tripped again? If so, that would make it an
oven, not breaker problem.

Along those lines, does it trip with the oven off?

Don't know. Just reset it. Will check tomorrow to see if it tripped.

If it trips
on oven bake, does it trip on broil?, etc. I'd agree the oven is
far more likely than the breaker.






Heating elements go bad on a regular basis. Sometimes they break,
other times they just short out. If you can get a good look at the
element you may even see the problem.

The element will only cost $20 to $30 and they are not difficult to
replace, but it may take more agility than you have. Figure about
$100 for a service call if you go that route.


Here is a recent crazy story of how easy it is to jump to wrong
conclusions and go down the wrong track. I have a 5 year old
Kitchenaid side by side fridge. One morning I opened it up and there
was no light, the control panel display was out, etc. Not good,
right? So, first thing I did was go check the breaker panel. There
was a tripped breaker. Not good right? So, I reset the breaker, it
held. I go back upstairs, fridge is still dead. VEry bad, right?
So, I pull it out, then test the outlet for power. There is power
there. Next I pull the back cover off the fridge, go online looking
for schematics, etc. to figure out what could be wrong. No breaker
or anything in the fridge. So, I plug it in and start tracing the
wires measuring continuity from the end of the plug to points in the
fridge, everything seems OK. I plug the fridge back in and start
probing for AC at various points, first it's there, then it looked
like it was gone, but with a test probe, you're never sure if what you
saw was because the probe moved a bit etc.

To make a long story short, what it turned out to be was the
receptacle was bad. This fridge is counter depth, they use one of
those flat style plugs where the cord winds up perpendicular to and
against the wall. I've seen those before, but this one, the cable
comes off it at a 45 deg angle, so there is always torque on the plug.
I have no doubt that contributed to the failure.

So, the only remaining mystery is why did the breaker trip? I
pondered that for a day, couldn't come up with a good reason, except
maybe if it was going on and off, it could have gotten to an overload
that way, but these new fridges use so little power and have overload
protection, that didn't seem likely. Finally it dawned on me. I was
doing some work in a rarely used bathroom and had turned the breaker
for that off a couple weeks earlier. When I went looking for a
tripped breaker, I saw one open, figured it had to be the fridge and
reset that one. The fridge breaker had never tripped, it was just the
bad receptacle. But I was happy, cost of the repair was just a
receptacle and a morning of screwing around. Also very lucky that I
caught it and fixed it without losing the food in the fridge.

I should be so lucky!




--
I love a good meal! That's why I don't cook.

If you're unsure if it's the oven or wiring, etc, I would not leave
the breaker on when no one is around. For example, it's possible there
is a fault in the wiring somewhere that could start a fire even with
the oven off.

On 09/06/2017 12:35 PM, trader_4 wrote:


To make a long story short, what it turned out to be was the receptacle
was bad. This fridge is counter depth, they use one of those flat style
plugs where the cord winds up perpendicular to and against the wall.
I've seen those before, but this one, the cable comes off it at a 45 deg
angle, so there is always torque on the plug. I have no doubt that
contributed to the failure.

So, the only remaining mystery is why did the breaker trip? I pondered
that for a day, couldn't come up with a good reason, except maybe if
it was going on and off, it could have gotten to an overload that way,
but these new fridges use so little power and have overload protection,
that didn't seem likely. Finally it dawned on me. I was doing some
work in a rarely used bathroom and had turned the breaker for that off
a couple weeks earlier. When I went looking for a tripped breaker,
I saw one open, figured it had to be the fridge and reset that one.
The fridge breaker had never tripped, it was just the bad receptacle.
But I was happy, cost of the repair was just a receptacle and a morning
of screwing around. Also very lucky that I caught it and fixed it
without losing the food in the fridge.






Good one.

Here's mine:

I returned home from vacation to find that the refrigerator had failed.


Good news: It was winter. The furnace had failed too and none of the
food was bad.


Maybe the furnace failing was not such good news...but at least the
house was above freezing...but not by much!

On Wednesday, September 6, 2017 at 4:47:29 PM UTC-4, philo wrote:
On 09/06/2017 12:35 PM, trader_4 wrote:


To make a long story short, what it turned out to be was the receptacle
was bad. This fridge is counter depth, they use one of those flat style
plugs where the cord winds up perpendicular to and against the wall.
I've seen those before, but this one, the cable comes off it at a 45 deg
angle, so there is always torque on the plug. I have no doubt that
contributed to the failure.

So, the only remaining mystery is why did the breaker trip? I pondered
that for a day, couldn't come up with a good reason, except maybe if
it was going on and off, it could have gotten to an overload that way,
but these new fridges use so little power and have overload protection,
that didn't seem likely. Finally it dawned on me. I was doing some
work in a rarely used bathroom and had turned the breaker for that off
a couple weeks earlier. When I went looking for a tripped breaker,
I saw one open, figured it had to be the fridge and reset that one.
The fridge breaker had never tripped, it was just the bad receptacle.
But I was happy, cost of the repair was just a receptacle and a morning
of screwing around. Also very lucky that I caught it and fixed it
without losing the food in the fridge.






Good one.

Here's mine:

I returned home from vacation to find that the refrigerator had failed.


Good news: It was winter. The furnace had failed too and none of the
food was bad.


Maybe the furnace failing was not such good news...but at least the
house was above freezing...but not by much!

I had the furnace go out when I was away on a snowboarding trip for
about a week ten years ago. It was my own fault, I had not replaced
the battery in the thermostat! IDK how long it was off, but I got
lucky too. It had apparently gotten close to freezing, I had one
line going into a toilet on an outside wall that had started to
leak at one of the compression fittings, flooding part of the bathroom
floor. But it wasn't too bad, no lasting damage. IDK if it actually
froze or if it just got cold enough that it affected the connection.
I didn't have to replace anything, just tightened it up.

You would think all thermostats would have a low temp failsafe
mechanical thermostatic switch in there to put it on if the temp
fell to below ~40. Some do, but mine didn't. I now have a
Honeywell VisionPro which has batteries and power from the furnace
too. If I was getting a new one, I'd go with one of those internet
capable ones, so you can check and/or adjust it remotely.
But I guess that comes with hacking possibilities too, would be
bad to find out the North Koreans turned it up to 120F on me.

On 9/6/2017 9:43 AM, KenK wrote:
Oven conked out while cooking yesterday. Found 240V breaker tripped. Reset
it and tried again, Breaker tripped again. Now to figure out if problem is
in the breaker or the oven. I'm hoping the breaker.

Can't figure out how to tell which without replacing the breaker. I'm
afraid I'm not strong enough any more to pry that old breaker out of the
box so I'll have to call an expensive electrician.

Hoping breaker more likely to trip if worn out than oven to short circuit -
I'd think oven heating element would open up instead, but what do I know?

Guesses? Suggestions? I'd like to get my oven back at a reasonable cost,

TIA


Same thing happened to me. It was the oven element. With all burners
full on, the breaker did not break, so I figured it had to be the oven.
Still under warranty, it was the oven.

On 09/06/2017 05:11 PM, trader_4 wrote:
On Wednesday, September 6, 2017 at 4:47:29 PM UTC-4, philo wrote:
On 09/06/2017 12:35 PM, trader_4 wrote:


To make a long story short, what it turned out to be was the receptacle
was bad. This fridge is counter depth, they use one of those flat style
plugs where the cord winds up perpendicular to and against the wall.
I've seen those before, but this one, the cable comes off it at a 45 deg
angle, so there is always torque on the plug. I have no doubt that
contributed to the failure.

So, the only remaining mystery is why did the breaker trip? I pondered
that for a day, couldn't come up with a good reason, except maybe if
it was going on and off, it could have gotten to an overload that way,
but these new fridges use so little power and have overload protection,
that didn't seem likely. Finally it dawned on me. I was doing some
work in a rarely used bathroom and had turned the breaker for that off
a couple weeks earlier. When I went looking for a tripped breaker,
I saw one open, figured it had to be the fridge and reset that one.
The fridge breaker had never tripped, it was just the bad receptacle.
But I was happy, cost of the repair was just a receptacle and a morning
of screwing around. Also very lucky that I caught it and fixed it
without losing the food in the fridge.






Good one.

Here's mine:

I returned home from vacation to find that the refrigerator had failed.


Good news: It was winter. The furnace had failed too and none of the
food was bad.


Maybe the furnace failing was not such good news...but at least the
house was above freezing...but not by much!

I had the furnace go out when I was away on a snowboarding trip for
about a week ten years ago. It was my own fault, I had not replaced
the battery in the thermostat! IDK how long it was off, but I got
lucky too. It had apparently gotten close to freezing, I had one
line going into a toilet on an outside wall that had started to
leak at one of the compression fittings, flooding part of the bathroom
floor. But it wasn't too bad, no lasting damage. IDK if it actually
froze or if it just got cold enough that it affected the connection.
I didn't have to replace anything, just tightened it up.

You would think all thermostats would have a low temp failsafe
mechanical thermostatic switch in there to put it on if the temp
fell to below ~40. Some do, but mine didn't. I now have a
Honeywell VisionPro which has batteries and power from the furnace
too. If I was getting a new one, I'd go with one of those internet
capable ones, so you can check and/or adjust it remotely.
But I guess that comes with hacking possibilities too, would be
bad to find out the North Koreans turned it up to 120F on me.




Some type of failsafe would be a good idea.

I suppose an old "mercury" thermostat could just be wired in parallel
and left in the basement set on 55 or 60

KenK wrote in news:XnsA7E8725E5A88Einvalidcom@
130.133.4.11:

Along those lines, does it trip with the oven off?

Don't know. Just reset it. Will check tomorrow to see if it tripped.



Didn't trip. Another pointer to a bad ovem I guess.


--
I love a good meal! That's why I don't cook.

On 09/07/2017 08:49 AM, KenK wrote:
KenK wrote in news:XnsA7E8725E5A88Einvalidcom@
130.133.4.11:

Along those lines, does it trip with the oven off?

Don't know. Just reset it. Will check tomorrow to see if it tripped.



Didn't trip. Another pointer to a bad ovem I guess.



Ovem? The first through time my personal autocorrect turned it into
"ovum" (egg).

--
109 days until the winter celebration (Monday December 25, 2017 12:00:00
AM for 1 day).

"To YOU I'm an atheist; to God, I'm the Loyal Opposition." [Woody Allen]

On Wed, 6 Sep 2017 09:19:42 -0500, philo wrote:

On 09/06/2017 08:43 AM, KenK wrote:
Oven conked out while cooking yesterday. Found 240V breaker tripped. Reset
it and tried again, Breaker tripped again. Now to figure out if problem is
in the breaker or the oven. I'm hoping the breaker.

Can't figure out how to tell which without replacing the breaker. I'm
afraid I'm not strong enough any more to pry that old breaker out of the
box so I'll have to call an expensive electrician.

Hoping breaker more likely to trip if worn out than oven to short circuit -
I'd think oven heating element would open up instead, but what do I know?

Guesses? Suggestions? I'd like to get my oven back at a reasonable cost,

TIA





Not likely to be a breaker.

Unplug the oven and see if the breaker trips.

If not, the oven is shorted.

OTOH: If it still trips, the problem could be in your wiring
Still doesn't tell you if the breaker is faulty and tripping early.
I'd lean towards the oven though, under the cercumstances. Try the
broiler instead of the lower (bake) element.

On Wed, 6 Sep 2017 10:38:48 -0400, Ed Pawlowski wrote:

On 9/6/2017 9:43 AM, KenK wrote:
Oven conked out while cooking yesterday. Found 240V breaker tripped. Reset
it and tried again, Breaker tripped again. Now to figure out if problem is
in the breaker or the oven. I'm hoping the breaker.

Can't figure out how to tell which without replacing the breaker. I'm
afraid I'm not strong enough any more to pry that old breaker out of the
box so I'll have to call an expensive electrician.

Hoping breaker more likely to trip if worn out than oven to short circuit -
I'd think oven heating element would open up instead, but what do I know?

Guesses? Suggestions? I'd like to get my oven back at a reasonable cost,

TIA



Rare that a breaker goes bad under normal circumstances. I'd bet on the
oven. When you said you tried it again, did you mean you turned the
oven on and it tripped again? If so, that would make it an oven, not
breaker problem.

Heating elements go bad on a regular basis. Sometimes they break, other
times they just short out. If you can get a good look at the element
you may even see the problem.

The element will only cost $20 to $30 and they are not difficult to
replace, but it may take more agility than you have. Figure about $100
for a service call if you go that route.
Unplug the oven and grab your multitester - check line to ground for
a short.

wrote in
:

On Wed, 6 Sep 2017 10:38:48 -0400, Ed Pawlowski wrote:

On 9/6/2017 9:43 AM, KenK wrote:
Oven conked out while cooking yesterday. Found 240V breaker tripped.
Reset it and tried again, Breaker tripped again. Now to figure out
if problem is in the breaker or the oven. I'm hoping the breaker.

Can't figure out how to tell which without replacing the breaker.
I'm afraid I'm not strong enough any more to pry that old breaker
out of the box so I'll have to call an expensive electrician.

Hoping breaker more likely to trip if worn out than oven to short
circuit - I'd think oven heating element would open up instead, but
what do I know?

Guesses? Suggestions? I'd like to get my oven back at a reasonable
cost,

TIA



Rare that a breaker goes bad under normal circumstances. I'd bet on
the oven. When you said you tried it again, did you mean you turned
the oven on and it tripped again? If so, that would make it an
oven, not breaker problem.

Heating elements go bad on a regular basis. Sometimes they break,
other times they just short out. If you can get a good look at the
element you may even see the problem.

The element will only cost $20 to $30 and they are not difficult to
replace, but it may take more agility than you have. Figure about
$100 for a service call if you go that route.
Unplug the oven and grab your multitester - check line to ground for
a short.

Trouble is, it doesn't unplug. The connection to the power line is hard-
wired. Looks like it is soldered but I didn't remove tape to check.



--
I love a good meal! That's why I don't cook.

On 8 Sep 2017 17:30:19 GMT, KenK wrote:

wrote in
:

On Wed, 6 Sep 2017 10:38:48 -0400, Ed Pawlowski wrote:

On 9/6/2017 9:43 AM, KenK wrote:
Oven conked out while cooking yesterday. Found 240V breaker tripped.
Reset it and tried again, Breaker tripped again. Now to figure out
if problem is in the breaker or the oven. I'm hoping the breaker.

Can't figure out how to tell which without replacing the breaker.
I'm afraid I'm not strong enough any more to pry that old breaker
out of the box so I'll have to call an expensive electrician.

Hoping breaker more likely to trip if worn out than oven to short
circuit - I'd think oven heating element would open up instead, but
what do I know?

Guesses? Suggestions? I'd like to get my oven back at a reasonable
cost,

TIA



Rare that a breaker goes bad under normal circumstances. I'd bet on
the oven. When you said you tried it again, did you mean you turned
the oven on and it tripped again? If so, that would make it an
oven, not breaker problem.

Heating elements go bad on a regular basis. Sometimes they break,
other times they just short out. If you can get a good look at the
element you may even see the problem.

The element will only cost $20 to $30 and they are not difficult to
replace, but it may take more agility than you have. Figure about
$100 for a service call if you go that route.
Unplug the oven and grab your multitester - check line to ground for
a short.

Trouble is, it doesn't unplug. The connection to the power line is hard-
wired. Looks like it is soldered but I didn't remove tape to check.
Where are you located? What style/brand of "oven" - is it a built-in?

On 08-Sep-17 12:30 PM, KenK wrote:
....

Trouble is, it doesn't unplug. The connection to the power line is hard-
wired. Looks like it is soldered but I didn't remove tape to check.

I've looked at all your responses that show up here and never did see
the ? answered of whether the breaker will reset with the oven/burners
all off?

If so, they try oven and then broiler and report results.

Are the burner elements all functional -- if so, that actually answers
the first question.

There are just two connections to the element at the back of the oven
wall behind the mounting plate -- turn the breaker off and remove the
bake element and check continuity between the two leads when loose.

I've never had an element fail that actually wasn't obvious -- they make
a good arc welder for just a second generally, but they could open
without a catastrophic failure.

As Clare says, the particular oven/range would let us know the specific
device...

--

On Friday, September 8, 2017 at 3:19:58 PM UTC-4, dpb wrote:
On 08-Sep-17 12:30 PM, KenK wrote:
...

Trouble is, it doesn't unplug. The connection to the power line is hard-
wired. Looks like it is soldered but I didn't remove tape to check.

I've looked at all your responses that show up here and never did see
the ? answered of whether the breaker will reset with the oven/burners
all off?

He did answer it:


Didn't trip. Another pointer to a bad ovem I guess.




If so, they try oven and then broiler and report results.

Are the burner elements all functional -- if so, that actually answers
the first question.

There are just two connections to the element at the back of the oven
wall behind the mounting plate -- turn the breaker off and remove the
bake element and check continuity between the two leads when loose.

I've never had an element fail that actually wasn't obvious -- they make
a good arc welder for just a second generally, but they could open
without a catastrophic failure.

As Clare says, the particular oven/range would let us know the specific
device...

--

Agree with all the above.

On 09/08/2017 12:30 PM, KenK wrote:

[snip]

Trouble is, it doesn't unplug. The connection to the power line is hard-
wired. Looks like it is soldered but I didn't remove tape to check.

Maybe you could disconnect it at the breaker end.

On Friday, September 8, 2017 at 7:30:23 PM UTC-4, Sam E wrote:
On 09/08/2017 12:30 PM, KenK wrote:

[snip]

Trouble is, it doesn't unplug. The connection to the power line is hard-
wired. Looks like it is soldered but I didn't remove tape to check.

Maybe you could disconnect it at the breaker end.

I don't see what that's going to prove. He already said that with the
oven off, the breaker holds.

wrote in news:j7l5rc5hsccn8j56lpu7ghl7ah90ipc66i@
4ax.com:

On 8 Sep 2017 17:30:19 GMT, KenK wrote:

wrote in
m:

On Wed, 6 Sep 2017 10:38:48 -0400, Ed Pawlowski wrote:

On 9/6/2017 9:43 AM, KenK wrote:
Oven conked out while cooking yesterday. Found 240V breaker
tripped.
Reset it and tried again, Breaker tripped again. Now to figure out
if problem is in the breaker or the oven. I'm hoping the breaker.

Can't figure out how to tell which without replacing the breaker.
I'm afraid I'm not strong enough any more to pry that old breaker
out of the box so I'll have to call an expensive electrician.

Hoping breaker more likely to trip if worn out than oven to short
circuit - I'd think oven heating element would open up instead, but
what do I know?

Guesses? Suggestions? I'd like to get my oven back at a reasonable
cost,

TIA



Rare that a breaker goes bad under normal circumstances. I'd bet on
the oven. When you said you tried it again, did you mean you turned
the oven on and it tripped again? If so, that would make it an
oven, not breaker problem.

Heating elements go bad on a regular basis. Sometimes they break,
other times they just short out. If you can get a good look at the
element you may even see the problem.

The element will only cost $20 to $30 and they are not difficult to
replace, but it may take more agility than you have. Figure about
$100 for a service call if you go that route.
Unplug the oven and grab your multitester - check line to ground
for
a short.

Trouble is, it doesn't unplug. The connection to the power line is
hard-
wired. Looks like it is soldered but I didn't remove tape to check.
Where are you located? What style/brand of "oven" - is it a built-in?


Arizona

Gaffers & Sattlers. Got it used many many years ago when my gas oven
failed.

Mounted in the kitchen wall




--
I love a good meal! That's why I don't cook.

dpb wrote in news
On 08-Sep-17 12:30 PM, KenK wrote:
...

Trouble is, it doesn't unplug. The connection to the power line is
hard-
wired. Looks like it is soldered but I didn't remove tape to check.

I've looked at all your responses that show up here and never did see
the ? answered of whether the breaker will reset with the oven/burners
all off?

No burners, just oven. Breaker stays on until oven used to cook
something.


Are the burner elements all functional -- if so, that actually answers
the first question.

There are just two connections to the element at the back of the oven
wall behind the mounting plate -- turn the breaker off and remove the
bake element and check continuity between the two leads when loose.


That should show an open. My problem appears to be a short circuit.


I've never had an element fail that actually wasn't obvious -- they
make
a good arc welder for just a second generally, but they could open
without a catastrophic failure.

As Clare says, the particular oven/range would let us know the specific
device...

Gaffers and Sattlers purchased used many years ago when gas oven failed.


--
I love a good meal! That's why I don't cook.

Sam E wrote in news:cKFsB.26501$%
:

On 09/08/2017 12:30 PM, KenK wrote:

[snip]

Trouble is, it doesn't unplug. The connection to the power line is
hard-
wired. Looks like it is soldered but I didn't remove tape to check.

Maybe you could disconnect it at the breaker end.



In case of a cable short? It is armored cable. I doubt it. Lots of
trouble to take apart breaker box to remove connections. Very hot outside
every day.



--
I love a good meal! That's why I don't cook.