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#1
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Tung vs. linseed
I would NEVER use anything but oil-based poly on kitchen cabinets, because
it has the greatest resistance to water. Of course, if you never use the kitchen except for chinese takeout (and I think that this does in fact characterize a lot of very expensive kitchens), then it matters not what you use. Water-based poly is probably ok too, but it generally is more likely to waterspot. In any case, oil finishes are not water resistant--the more oil, the less resistance. You can mix oil and varnish or use commercial products, but none of them will hold up as well as poly. Sprayed lacquer is ok, and catalyzed finishes used by professionals are obviously great, but if you are doing it yourself, brushing on poly with a Jen Manufacturing foam brush is hard to beat for ease, total effort, and expense. And I LIKE the smell of curing varnish, which only lasts a month or so really. But that's me. Oil smells a lot more. I really like oil for situations where it is possible to pretty much guarantee that no idiot is going to put a wet glass on it, and in fact I have been finishing some furniture pieces with just tung oil and paint thinner. It takes about 6 weeks to finally get pretty dry, but it does eventually dry, and it doesn't darken the wood as much as linseed. It is also supposed to be somewhat more waterproof. "Trent©" wrote in message ... I'm redoing our kitchen cabinets...and I want to put oil on them when I finish stripping them. I did one very small door a few months ago...to see how it looked when done. I used linseed oil on it...which is what I always use. It looks great...exactly the look I'm looking for. I have never used tung oil...have no idea even what it looks like when on, etc. Can someone give me some practical experience they've had with tung oil? Is it much different in application...looks...etc. from linseed oil? This is all going on birch, BTW. Do ya think the one door with the linseed oil will match the tung oil door? I was planning on putting on 4 coats of linseed oil. Will I need that many of tung oil for the same level of protection? TIA Have a nice week... Trent Fighting for peace is like screwing for virginity! |
#2
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Tung vs. linseed
I really like oil for situations where it is possible to pretty much guarantee that no idiot is going to put a wet glass on it, and in fact I have been finishing some furniture pieces with just tung oil and paint thinner. It takes about 6 weeks to finally get pretty dry, but it does eventually dry, and it doesn't darken the wood as much as linseed. It is also supposed to be somewhat more waterproof. Now this isn't meant to disagree and personally, I wouldn't depend on any oil finish for any great protection from moisture, but I've always read the opposite. Linseed oil being more moisture resistant then tung oil. It was supposedly it's only saving grace. But then again that is what I seem to remember reading at some point. I'm going to see if I can find that little piece of trivia. On another point that came up in the tread which I'm only addressing on yours rather then one of the other posts because it's less work then answering two posts, so forgive me. Kitchen cabinets are all vertical surfaces and are really only subjected to standing water during floods. Barring that eventuality I've never seen any reason that why oil can't be used on the cabinets (NOTE, not counter tops). From a practical point of view not only is it easy to apply but, even if it should become dull, it is also easily rejuvenated with further applications of oil. Yes, oil doesn't provide a lot of protection from water but it does provide some, more then enough to withstand the occasional sink overflow or spilled glass of milk. Add a good coat of wax and an oil finished kitchen cabinet set will probably stay better looking with less maintenance longer then a lacquer finished cabinet set. Just a thought or two. -- Mike G. Heirloom Woods www.heirloom-woods.net |
#3
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Tung vs. linseed
Some practical experience tends to lead me to believe otherwise, but the
jury is still out. Although I finished my current kitchen with lacquer, my previous one was finished using an oil/varnish. The accumulation of airborne cooking oils grease down through the years did nothing but muck up the latter. Had nothing to do with vertical surfaces. I have not been that long in this kitchen, but thus far I see none of the problems in this regard that I saw in the last kitchen early on. -- www.e-woodshop.net Last update: 9/21/03 "Mike G" wrote in message Kitchen cabinets are all vertical surfaces and are really only subjected to standing water during floods. Barring that eventuality I've never seen any reason that why oil can't be used on the cabinets (NOTE, not counter tops). From a practical point of view not only is it easy to apply but, even if it should become dull, it is also easily rejuvenated with further applications of oil. Yes, oil doesn't provide a lot of protection from water but it does provide some, more then enough to withstand the occasional sink overflow or spilled glass of milk. Add a good coat of wax and an oil finished kitchen cabinet set will probably stay better looking with less maintenance longer then a lacquer finished cabinet set. Just a thought or two. |
#4
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Tung vs. linseed
On 5-Nov-2003, "Mike G" wrote:
Now this isn't meant to disagree and personally, I wouldn't depend on any oil finish for any great protection from moisture, Among paddle makers, many believe that oil is better than any hard finish. But putting a paddle in the water a gazzillion times a day isn't quite the same as wiping up a splash of tomato sauce. Personally, if it's a real kitchen, I'd not use anything but a hard, washable finish. but I've always read the opposite. Linseed oil being more moisture resistant then tung oil. It was supposedly it's only saving grace. I hear the opposite from paddle makers. Tung's a tad more resistant. YMMV Something tells me this could be debated till the cows come home. Mike |
#5
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Tung vs. linseed
Ahh, how to be delicate about it. Years of cooking grease and smoke in the
air will muck up any finish if it isn't cleaned once and awhile. Sorry, best I could do. Take care Mike -- Mike G. Heirloom Woods www.heirloom-woods.net "Swingman" wrote in message news.com... Some practical experience tends to lead me to believe otherwise, but the jury is still out. Although I finished my current kitchen with lacquer, my previous one was finished using an oil/varnish. The accumulation of airborne cooking oils grease down through the years did nothing but muck up the latter. Had nothing to do with vertical surfaces. I have not been that long in this kitchen, but thus far I see none of the problems in this regard that I saw in the last kitchen early on. -- www.e-woodshop.net Last update: 9/21/03 "Mike G" wrote in message Kitchen cabinets are all vertical surfaces and are really only subjected to standing water during floods. Barring that eventuality I've never seen any reason that why oil can't be used on the cabinets (NOTE, not counter tops). From a practical point of view not only is it easy to apply but, even if it should become dull, it is also easily rejuvenated with further applications of oil. Yes, oil doesn't provide a lot of protection from water but it does provide some, more then enough to withstand the occasional sink overflow or spilled glass of milk. Add a good coat of wax and an oil finished kitchen cabinet set will probably stay better looking with less maintenance longer then a lacquer finished cabinet set. Just a thought or two. |
#6
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Tung vs. linseed
I hear the opposite from paddle makers. Tung's a tad more resistant. YMMV
Something tells me this could be debated till the cows come home. That's why I stopped short of any definitive comment. I'm content to go with the verdict of paddle makers. -- Mike G. Heirloom Woods www.heirloom-woods.net |
#7
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Tung vs. linseed
Tsk, tsk ... that was the point ... constant cleaning of an oil/varnish
finish over the years _was_ the problem. -- www.e-woodshop.net Last update: 9/21/03 "Mike G" wrote in message Ahh, how to be delicate about it. Years of cooking grease and smoke in the air will muck up any finish if it isn't cleaned once and awhile. Sorry, best I could do. |
#8
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Tung vs. linseed
On Wed, 5 Nov 2003 21:52:08 -0500, "Mike G"
wrote: Linseed oil being more moisture resistant then tung oil. This has frequently been empirically true, but it's because of different driers, not because of different oils Linseed oil has fallen from favour and now tung is more popular (broadly speaking). This has roughly coincided with fears over heavy metals, and a shift from lead-based driers to manganese ones. Now there may be some difference between the oils themselves, but there's a _huge_ difference between the effects of these driers. Lead becomes more effective in rising humidity and manganese becomes less so. Above 70% RH, manganese barely works (one of the reasons not to apply oil finishes in a damp atmosphere). If you study old gunsmithing references (The Modern Gunsmith from the 1930s is a good book and still quite common) you'll see much discussion of the effects of either drier, or of mixing them, on gunstocking oil finishes. Bill Knight (The Mad Monk) has also done useful research in this area. Even after the finishes are fully cured, there are differences in their resultant surface. A lead-dried oil finish _feels_ different - it's often described as having a "leather-like" texture. It's also a matter of historical record that the favoured recipe for waterproofing oilcloth to make travelling chests etc. was a lead based drier. This was seen as more resistant to water, and also as lasting longer when exposed to water. So there may be differences in the oils, and their relative tolerance for water. But the type of chemical drier used is even more significant. -- Die Gotterspammerung - Junkmail of the Gods |
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